• Satisfied Auto Brake Pads for Lincoln LS System 1
  • Satisfied Auto Brake Pads for Lincoln LS System 2
  • Satisfied Auto Brake Pads for Lincoln LS System 3
Satisfied Auto Brake Pads for Lincoln LS

Satisfied Auto Brake Pads for Lincoln LS

Ref Price:
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Loading Port:
Qingdao
Payment Terms:
TT OR LC
Min Order Qty:
100 set
Supply Capability:
50000 set/month

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Auto parts: 

brake pads

Position: 

Front Axle

PAGID: 

C1004

VALEO: 

541679

WVA: 

29108/29109/29163

FMSI: 

D1203-8323

FERODO: 

FDB1313

Rate: 

EE&FF

Test: 

Link &Greening Test

 Packaging & Delivery

Packaging Detail:

Neutral Packing, ANTEC Packing, Client's Packing. Corrugated Box,Wooden case,Pallet.

Delivery Detail:

30-45days

Specifications

Brake pads 
1)Asbestos, Non-asbestos, Semi-metallic, Nao, Ceramic, Carbon fiber 2)High noise abatement 
3)Prompt delivery

Core Products:

We produce Asbestos, Non-asbestos, Semi-metallic, Nao, Ceramic, Carbon fiber brake pads .

Description:

    Crossing Reference Number

Application

FMSI

D1203-8323

FERODO

FDB1313

Scania   

 

Benz 

 

Man 

 

Iveco 

 

DAF

WVA

29087

WVA

29059

WVA

29106

WVA

29105

WVA

29062

WVA

29061

WVA

29060

WVA

29046

WVA

29045

WVA

29042

WVA

29202

WVA

29201

WVA

29179

WVA

29163

WVA

29109

WVA

29108

O.E.M.

0034201620

O.E.M.

0024204920

O.E.M.

082135100

O.E.M.

0044202220

O.E.M.

2992348

O.E.M.

1439324

Features:

1.Shimmed, chamfered and slotted to be consistent with OE Design

2.Positive mold process

3.Ultra-quiet performance, low dusting

4.Rubberized multi-layer shims

5.Responsive braking and longer pad life

6.Sensor wires included on those vehicles with OE sensor wires

7.QS9000, IS09002 and TUV certified

Advantages:

1. Production experience: 15 years

2. Items' availability: 1800 models of brake pads, our R&D Department can develop 10 new items per month. Presently the models under production cover European and American Applications, Japanese and Korean Applications, and heavy-duty applications for truck, bus and engineering vehicles etc.

3. Formulation: Asbestos, Non-asbestos, Semi-metallic, Nao, Ceramic, Carbon fiber 

4.OEM Accepted: We can produce any your design. 

5.Guarantee: 30,000- 60,000kms

6.Warranty:If there is any quality problem, we will supply the same quantity goods with free charge to you.

 

 

 

 

Q: How can I ride my motorcycle with a dress on? Can I just ride sidesaddle and skip using the rear brake?
i guess that would be the only way, but its hard to ride without the rear brake, maybe get pant?
Q: i just reinstalled my rim on a 97 vulcan 800 after having a new tire mounted. my problem is now the brake is rubbing. how do i fix this? thanks for the help
Are your brake pads in good shape? If anti rattle clips are in place in caliper bleed your system . Fresh fluid never hurts
Q: anyone know how to burnout on a sports bike?
type into search box how to do a burnout on a motorcycle but kind of like whats been said hold front brake and gas it hold on
Q: hey everyone i had a question about motorcycles. my question is what is a good honda beginner bike im 18 and i have a car and i want a bike one of my friends has one and says how fun it is but anyways i am looking at 2 at the moment links: motorcycle.honda.ca/sport/cbr250r/2011 and motorcycle.honda.ca/sport/cbr1000rra/2011 i am not buying it its a grad gift and they said anything over 10,000 i‘d have to pay the extra im going to keep it for a long time so is 1000cc‘s to powerful for a beginner or is 250 good or should i maby go for a 600 i have rode dirtbikes before but i dont have my own and i am going to go to a motorcycle school in a few weeks so ya i really like the 1000 but my friend said it might be to much for a beginner. Thanks,Matt:)
If your experience with motorcycles has been looking and wishing, I'd start you on a 250. If you know how to ride already and yearn for the freeway, there's a big gap up from the 250 and 600 might be your choice. If all you intend to do is have fun on the weekends, the 250 should make you happy a few years. Even after riding more than 20 years, I don't need a 1000. That kind of power just makes you act a fool.
Q: The world's first motorcycle.
1897 Paris Expo for the first time on display the French Eugene Weerna and Michelle Werner brothers invented the "light motorcycle." This is actually a bike with an engine. The two French-born Frenchmen installed a small engine designed for rabbits on a bike, creating the first motorized pedal. This car in 1898 after the production in France, by the customer's warm welcome. British Coventry motorcycle manufacturing company and Germany's Azer Nacha company were purchased patents, in the country set up a production line.
Q: While applying the rear brake in a motorcycle we should be holding the clutch, but what about the front disc brake while applying that should the clutch be held?
Basicly what the other guy said. You should only use the clutch when you are changing gear, stoping or mostly on a dirt bike, going to skid the back wheel on purpose
Q: I just got my first motorcycle yesterday. It‘s a 500cc so it‘s medium-sized, but I can‘t seem to move it by myself without dropping it! It weighs almost 400lbs and I weigh 160 or so; what the hell am I doing wrong? Is there a secret for balancing a bike while not on it and not have it tip over to the right (where the kick stand isn‘t)?Thanks in advance.
There's a reason why many people suggest starting with a 250. Until one has developed the proper technique, one often has to resort to body english, or brute force, to get things done and if the bike is too heavy the bike (and gravity) will win the contest. The proper technique for getting on a bike is to grasp the handlebars, hold the front brake on, lean the bike SLIGHTLY to the left, and swing your leg over. If you have trouble doing that, you can leave the bike on its side-stand while holding the brake and getting astride. Either way, only once you're astride do you bring the bike upright. Once on the bike, the correct ready position, in other words your position at a standstill, is with both hands on the grips (NOT covering the front brake or clutch lever), your left foot on the ground, and your right foot holding the rear brake. You should ALWAYS come to a stop in this position, leaning the bike to the left as you stop. Otherwise, you are forced to release the rear brake before you have stopped (bad idea) so that you can catch the bike before it falls to the right. (Next lesson: If you're astride a bike, you use the motor to move it. You do NOT paddle with your feet to move it. EVER. That's SO gauche.)
Q: Hi all, I am 19 year old male and I was thinking to buy motorcycle for a long time. Problem is I am very scared of it, whenever i say to someone that i want to buy one they always say Oh, you wonna get yourself killed?, Do you wonna be in wheelchair? and etcAre motorycles really that dangerous?P.S. Sorry for my bad english :)
Yes they are very dangerous. However, you can do as much as possible to minimize that risk! For starters, you want to wear as much quality gear as possible. Helmet, jacket, pants, gloves, boots. And I'm talking motorcycle specific gearjeans don't hold up. Next you want to take riding courses, such as the MSF, to give you a solid background and help develop your skills. Finally, this is the most importantyou need to be 110% aware of everything. Other people around you, road surface conditions, throttle control, body positionetc. You really need to learn how to anticipate events so that you can plan ahead and get out of a would-be bad situation. Still, at the end of the day, it is risky. There are times which you just can't avoid a bad situation. But you can reduce all the other risks as much as possible. It's not for everyone, but if you try it, you may just find out that you love it more than anything else!!

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