Brake pads Anto parts for cars OEM System 1

Brake pads Anto parts for cars OEM System 2

Brake pads Anto parts for cars OEM

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Loading Port:: Tianjin

Payment Terms:: TT OR LC

Min Order Qty:: 100 set

Supply Capability:: 50000 set/month

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Packaging & Delivery

Packaging Details:	cartons,pallet
Delivery Detail:	25 days

Specifications

1.yutong bus brake lining
2.MOQ:50 SETS
3.23K, 80,000KMS
4.CHASE TEST
5.400 MODELS

Product Description

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yutong bus brake lining

1.high quality&good yutong bus brake lining
2.material:asbestos&non asbestos
3.400 kinds for truck,trailer,bus,etc
4:chase test

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Characteristic

light & heavy duty brake lining
Very efficient when braking and low wearing, minimum loss of efficiency on wet surface.
Low wear of the rotors.
powerful and progressive brake that doesn't fade.
Low lost of efficiency on wet conditions. Low to no-noise.
Smooth on rotors, very effective for high line tourisms.
Produced f or both axels, it can be applied on the rear axel on competition vehicles of front wheel drive.

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Specification

WVA	MAFF	BFMC	DIMENSION	DRUM DIAM	APPLICATION
19932	315.1290.0	SV/41/2	203×19×235	410	bpw

Brake pads Anto parts for cars OEM

Q: Changed my motorcycles front brake pads,Had to push the piston back a little bit to get them to go back on the caliper (new pads had more meat) Then I pumped my brake a few times to get a good pressure now they are REALLY tightShould I just wear em down by riding with zero glide?Should I take the brakes off and manually push the pads back?Or would brake bleeding resolve this issue?: Yes, you simply put a new power booster master cylinder. It's always been that way and that's the way it chances are will stay

Q: what are the best brake pads for chrome rotors on a motorcycle?: The smartest thing to do is contact the company that produces the chrome rotors and ask them what they prefer you to run on their product.But from experience I can tell you if you only ride a little and the bike is for more show than go then it probably will not matter.However in our group we have seen rust begin to form on the outer edges of the air holes and then proceed to move in a circular rotation when the chrome begins to chip and gets embedded in the brake pad and then it scores the rest of the rotor.Not a big fan of chrome rotors after paying out the money only to have it happen usually on the first or second ride after sitting all winter.

Q: whenever i pull the lever for the front brake. It really doesn't do anything. It does work a little but not effective at all. The lever feels tight and stiff. What do I need to fix? I was thinking to change out the pads, will that do the trick? Do i need to bleed the brakes as it feels a bit tight? any input would be appreciated. it's a 1997 suzuki intruder 800.: If it's a cable operated brake might just need the cable lubricating, you can buy a tool for this from a tool shop i.e. a cable lubricator, New pads ain't gonna make any difference. If it's hydraulic it's a garage job bee.

Q: i bought a motorcycle recently and ive been looking it over pretty good today, i noticed when i pushed the bike across the property that i could hear a little bit of a rattle/jingle sound coming from the front rotor areas, i felt around and found that the brake pads (not the calipers just the pads) can be wiggled around pretty easily they dont move far but they can very very easily be moved 1/8 inch to maybe 3/16 this is the same on both rotors (dual disc front brakes) but is more loose feeling on one then the other. i know on my truck the pads dont feel sloppy like that but thats my only reference. is this normal ? if not what could be wrong with them that would allow for this looseness. the bike stops fine, some minor intermittent squeeking is heard when braking at low speeds but no other noises and no vibrations coming from front end. what do you think?: Older bikes don't have anti-rattle springs and my '79 Kaw doesn't. The original pads were glued to the pistons and backing plate, which had to be pried free when I replaced them. The replacement pads rattled, which was noticeable and annoying when cruising at low speeds through town. To solve the problem, I used silicone sealer to glue the pads to the piston and backing plate. Problem fixed, that was many years ago and they are still quiet. Since yours rattle, I bet the pads have been replaced.

Q: Can you get a special motorcycle street license for motorcycles 100ccs and under?: The price of a tire handed to you can be as low as $125 or as high as the $300 depending on the brand. If you take it off the bike they should only charge you $25 or $35 bucks to mount balance it.

Q: I have a honda ex5, every time I press the leg brake there is a clicking sound coming from the leg area: Drum brake? the shoes are worn.

Q: is it the same to be on a push bike ? because i am heaver than a push bike so i am always super scared to go down hill is there any difference in a motorcycle?: No, it's not the same as a push bike. A motorbike weighs more, has suspension, better brakes, and you don't have to pedal. It will feel a lot more stable going downhill at 50mph and will cope with hitting a pothole better. Go and take a motorcycle course where they provide bikes, to see if you like it.

Q: I have bought 1 '78 Honda CB400T and everything was fine until next morning where the front disk brake locked up. I suspect that it might have to do something with temperature change as the previous owner kept the motorcycle in his heated garage and didn't take it out for quite time and when I brought it home and left it overnight on cold weather the disk got locked up. (I live in NYC, so the weather isn't that brutal though) It has been standing for a week now. I went today to bleed the brakes but nothing helped. Any suggestions?: Unbolt the caliper, remove the brake pads, make sure the piston is clean and smooth with no rust, pitting or brake dust so you don't damage the seal in the caliper a copper or brass wire brush and contact cleaner will work good for this- do not scratch or gouge the piston because it will damage the seal and leak there my be a rubber dust boot over the piston you can gently roll to back before you clean the piston. If the piston is pitted or scratched then the caliper need to be rebuilt and the piston replaced. Remove the master cylinder cap so the fluid can be pushed back into the reservoir when the piston is pushed in have some rags handy fluid my spill then use a C clamp or channellock pliers to push the piston back into the caliper. pull the brake lever a few times to to push the piston back out then push the piston back into the caliper do this a few times don't over pump the brakes or the piston may pop out of the caliper. If the piston moves smoothly you can reinstall the pads bolt the caliper back on, pump up the brakes and bleed the system.

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