Brake pads Anto parts for cars OEM System 1

Brake pads Anto parts for cars OEM System 2

Brake pads Anto parts for cars OEM

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Loading Port:: Tianjin

Payment Terms:: TT OR LC

Min Order Qty:: 100 set

Supply Capability:: 50000 set/month

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Packaging & Delivery

Packaging Details:	cartons,pallet
Delivery Detail:	25 days

Specifications

1.yutong bus brake lining
2.MOQ:50 SETS
3.23K, 80,000KMS
4.CHASE TEST
5.400 MODELS

Product Description

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yutong bus brake lining

1.high quality&good yutong bus brake lining
2.material:asbestos&non asbestos
3.400 kinds for truck,trailer,bus,etc
4:chase test

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Characteristic

light & heavy duty brake lining
Very efficient when braking and low wearing, minimum loss of efficiency on wet surface.
Low wear of the rotors.
powerful and progressive brake that doesn't fade.
Low lost of efficiency on wet conditions. Low to no-noise.
Smooth on rotors, very effective for high line tourisms.
Produced f or both axels, it can be applied on the rear axel on competition vehicles of front wheel drive.

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Specification

WVA	MAFF	BFMC	DIMENSION	DRUM DIAM	APPLICATION
19932	315.1290.0	SV/41/2	203×19×235	410	bpw

Brake pads Anto parts for cars OEM

Q: I saw a couple of mountain bikes with dual disc brakes. Is it really necessary. My 100cc motorcycle had no disc brake and even my 450cc motorcycle only had front disc brake. Even new small size motorcycles don‘t have dual disc brakes.: They are necessary for any bike that will be ridden on serious terrain. but not for the reason you're assuming. It's not that they need more braking power but rather the only alternative is rim brakes. On a mountain bike, it's not at all uncommon for rims to bend or come out of true from the beating they take. A bent rim with rim brakes means you now have diminished braking abilties. with a disc system, it's nothing to worry about. Motorcycles used drum brakes rather than rim brakes because weight isnt as important. A drum big enough to not overheat would simply be too heavy for a mountain bike.

Q: They‘re always jackknifing and sheet. Whats up with that? My 1989 BMW motorcycle has anti-lock brakes, but brand new semis go around rolling on top of Miatas for no reason. So, wtf is going on, mang?: Anti-lock brakes are great but you simply cannot overcome the laws of physics. If you get a 70,000 lbs. object traveling down a road - particularly a wet or icy road - and then radically change the angle of the tractor and trailer, it can still jackknife whether or not a truck has ABS. Want to reduce jackknifing? One way may be to start prosecuting drivers who swerve in front of heavy trucks.

Q: Can I downshift on a motorcycle right before braking or does it have to be at the same time?: yes aslong as it doesnt get too cold in the cool end, you likelt need a high wattage one and it on a thermostat. edit: can someone please inform me why ceramics are crap (just saying somethings crap without giiving a reason seems poor answering to me) i am always eager to learn and currently am moving all of my high wattage bulb vivs over to ceramic's (due to the Ban The Bulb move in the uk mean all high wattage bulbs (over 100W in 2010 and anything over 50W by 2015) are soon to be removed from UK shelves. but if there is a problem with them (other than the light basking issue) i would like to know but i do find you answer pretty offensive But if all of my advice kill animals then fine. iassume you varanid are completely pefect in everyway .

Q: Hi - I am 18 years old - and never rode a motorcycle before in my life (I have a car). I recently bought a Ninja 250. I signed up for the Motorcycle Basic Riding Course in 4 weeks. Until then, the motorcycle is just going to sit in the garage. Anyways, my question is will the Course tell me how to ride a bike, or do I have to experiment with my bike and learn by myself?: First thing- if the bike is going to sit in the garage for a couple of weeks, add fuel stabilizer and get a battery tender float charger for the battery. Install both of these devises on the bike, then you will be good to go when you decide you want to venture out. If you decide you want to try to venture out before taking the course, learn the basics-how to pick up a downed motorcycle-there is a special technic that does not involve brawn to do it and saves your back. I know I had to 2X yesterday pick up my 800 pound bike on a steep downhill gravel and stone road. nothing sadder than seeing a bike that you are riding laying on its side with no help in sight. Next take the time to read the owners manual. Lots of pertinent info in there. Hardest thing for most beginners-mastering the clutch and throttle while holding the back brake on. You could practice that. Learn to put the motorcycle up on its center stand. Finally read all you can about riding and motorcycle clothing and helmets and gloves and boots and decide what you want and get it. you will need the DOT approved helmet, some form of jacket or long sleeve shirt and gloves, with long pants and boots or shoes that come up over the ankles in order to take the course.

Q: I am interested in buying a motorcycle possibly in the future. I have ZERO riding experience and all I have is a drivers license. How would I get my license if I don‘t have a bike?: It depends on where you live, the rules are different everywhere. I'll assume you live in the US. You get a learner's permit just like for your driver's license. This is good for six months, and in some places you can get it renewed for another six months. You get a used motorcycle. (You're going to be hard on your first bike, and it would be a shame to mess up a shiny new bike). You practice in a quiet residential neighborhood or country road until the controls are automatic (i.e. you don't have to spend time wondering 'Hmmm, now which of these doodads is the brake?'). Then you go back to the DMV and take a written test and a riding test, and you get your license. In the US we have the Motorcycle Safety Foundation (MSF) which has a beginner's course that you do in a weekend or several evenings. They provide the motorcycle! You ride around at 10-15 mph in a parking lot. They don't teach you to ride in that short time, you learn by yourself, you learn by doing. What they teach you is some important safety habits to keep you alive while you're learning. It's not absolutely necessary but it's a good idea, especially when you consider that more than half of all motorcycle accidents happen to people with less than a year's riding experience. If you never rode a bicycle, then you should start on one of those, at least to learn how to balance and turn. Only because if you happen to fall off, the consequences are much less dramatic. If you can drive a manual shift car, you already understand how clutch and gearshift work, and you will have no trouble transferring that understanding to the bike. If not, you can learn it on the bike. Motorcycles are really as much fun as they look! They're not hard to ride. Safety is your biggest concern in starting out, so you have to be alert and 'in the moment'. It takes a certain amount of 'maturity'. I think accident statistics are skewed by young men suffering from 'testosterone poisoning'. 8^)

Q: I have a 1982 Honda CM 125, and recently what seems to be the rear brake light is sticking. Using the front brake will not make it stick, but as soon as I use the rear brake it does. At first I thought this could be the switch on the brake pedal - but if you give the bike a good shake the brake light will disengage. So could this be a faulty connection? Any help with repair would be spectacular! :): I'm not sure on an old Honda if the rear brake is manual or hydraulic. No matter, first look for a switch near the brake pedal/lever, it should be easy to spot as it looks like the neutral start switch on the clutch pedal of a manual transmission car. If there's not one then there is a hydraulic brake line pressure switch somewhere. Since you say shaking the bike disengages the brake lite I'd bet the Honda has a manual switch in the brake line linkage.

Q: I have a 78 CB125 that uses a cable actuated disc. I‘m putting on new bars and levers--doing some rewiring of the bike as well. The switch is basic and plugs in the lever right behind the cable. What are my options for preserving this feature? Is there an inline cable operated switch I could use, or are there aftermarket levers that have this feature built in?: Keep the lever perch with the switch and change the lever only.

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