Rising Stem Solid Wedge Gate Valve DN40

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Type:	Non-Rising Stem
Material:	Body: Cast Iron / Ductile Iron Wedge: Cast Iron / Ductile Iron Encapsulated with EPDM Seat: EPDM / NBR Shaft: SS410 Stem Nut: Brass O-ring: EPDM, NBR Wedge Nut: Brass / Bronze Hand Wheel: Ductile Iron
Operator:	Hand Wheel / Bevel Gearing / Square head / Electric actuator
Face to Face:	BS5163: 1986, DIN 3202 F4-F5, JIS B2002, ANSI B16.10
Flange:	BS4504, DIN 2532, JIS B2212, ANSI B16.10/ANSI B16.50
Working Pressure:	16 Bar(200 PSI)
Design and Manufacturer Standard :	BS5163, DIN 3352, JIS B2043
Test Standard:	API 598 BS6755 DIN 3230 JIS B2003
Application:	Water works, Sewage, Public facilties, Building industry, Petroleum, Chemical, Steel, Metallurgy, Paper Making Industry, Foods, Beverage, HVAC

Q: The water in my tub/shower stopped working. I did my research on the net to discover the cause and I also went to Home Depot explained the problem. The worker at home depot helped me get the right part I needed to replace the valve stem. I came home, took the faucet handle off and can see what I need to do next. Everything seems perfect and ready to go, except I can't remove the old valve stem. It seems like the old one should just slide out and the new one replaces it. How do I get the old one out without damaging any of the pipes or hurting myself.: Check back on your website to see if they have the procedure for removing/installing the new stem. These usually have to be turned to allow them to be removed. You should be able to purchase a tool to help you release it. Also, be aware the old stem could be hard to remove due to build-up and/or torn seals. After you get it our, try to remve and deposits in the valve and then apply a little lubricant to the new stem before you insert it. Be sure the lubricant is compatable with the seals.

Q: I bought a plastic ball valve from Lowe's just a couple days ago and it is stuck, I haven't installed it in anything but it wont budge without a pair of channel locks. I tried wd-40 but still nothing, should I return it or keep working with it? and if I keep working what should I try?: === take it back and get another valve .... if it doesn't work freely in your hand then the valve will be a problem if you install it ---- working with pvc you should use the purple glue that is waterproof and it is a good seal and no leaks when you have

Q: Is this possible? The valve is way too big to fit the rim. Is there a special inner tube for this rim? Thanks in advance.: There are two kinds of valves used on bicycles. The large one, the Schrader valve, is the same as the valve used on cars. The thinner one is the Presta valve. The only possible way to get into the situation you describe is to have a Schrader valve tube and a Presta valve rim. Take the tube back to where you bought it and exchange it for a Presta valve tube. Presta valves are easy to operate. To inflate them, remove the plastic cap if one is there. Fully loosen the fitting at the top of the valve. It will not come off. Inflate the tire to recommended pressure with a Presta valve pump, a pump that automatically does both valve types, or a threaded adapter that will let you use a Schrader valve pump (remove the adapter when done). Then, screw down the fitting that you loosened to start. You really don't need the plastic cap. Their purpose is the keep the valve from puncturing the tube when the whole thing is folded up. Once you've installed the tube in the tire you don't need the cap any more. HTH EDIT: (sorry for shouting) DO NOT DRILL OUT THE RIM! That has the potential for serious safety problems.

Q: I wanna do it myself My dad knows how But i must buy the parts I have a rmz250 and i was wondering if u can jus buy valves and seals and jus put them in without grinding since the seals are new i heard u must gring the seals to get the valves to sit flush againt the metal serface but cant u jus buy new seals and retainers and put that in plus the valves and ur done?: It all depends upon the wear in the cylinders of the engine. Usually they are honed and made smooth again prior to installing the new rings, seals, etc.

Q: what are the factors should be know to select a control valve for specified application: control valve is an uni-directional (non-return) valve, some of the factors to be aware of before selecting it....identify application character, select the valve size, select the valve end connection, piping layout and valve orientation , maintenance requirement , actuation requirement , initial cost ..etc..

Q: Specify eight technical requirements that you would consider important, when deciding upon a particular control valve?: 1] I assume that by control valve you mean a variable orifice valve, not an on/off valve. 2] An answerer to your other question listed Metallurgy, temperature, pressure and shutoff requirement To which I note that if you need a tight shutoff you should not trust a control valve to do that, but should add an on/off valve in series. Also, metallurgy covers corrosion requirements but not obviously so 3] To which I add: flow rate [or Cv] and pressure drop fail open or fail closed response time signal input [3-15 psi, 4-20 mA, 1-5V, etc] connections [ie, fitting type] packed vs sealed might need to look at hard seat materials and/or replaceable seats, to control erosion reliability, ease of maintenance, availability of spares, timing on that vendor permanence [ie, are they entering bankruptcy ?] Cost

Q: Is there any application usuage of ball valve in comparison,most engineers opinion is as Valve size get reduces in reduced port.Other than this what paramteres decides in selection of either of one: W.W. Grainger out of Chicago ships all over the world, also McMaster-Carr Supply.

Q: where is the fuel tank selector valve located on the truck?: There is no selector valve on 1992-95 F150's. There were or the older carbureted trucks but newer ones are all fuel injected and have in-tank fuel pumps. The switch on the dash just selects which pump you turn on. I'd say the front tank fuel pump has gone bad or possibly has a cheaper electrical problem (if you're lucky). Exact same thing happened to my 1995 F150. Replacing a pump is a pain and not cheap.

Q: 1994 Chevy K1500 P/U 5.7 liter 350 4X4 5 speed. When the truck is under a hard pull the valves start knocking, the knock sensor adjust the timing and the check engine light comes on. The code for the light is not detecting knock sensor. I have changed the pcv valve (which was suggested) and no change. This has went on for about 5 years. Doesn't matter the grade of fuel I use. Routine maintance and tune ups have been done to this truck. The converter was taken off 7 years ago because it was clogged. The truck runs rich after the timing adjust. The light resets itself when it is turned off. ( the code is saved): hi, a common misconseption on this noise is the valves are banging or knocking, the noise ur hearing is actually caused by preigntion detonation, in other words, the fire is starting in the hole b4 it is supposed to, the plug has to be the one to start the fire, if there is excessive carbon build up on the piston and or valves it can devolop a hot spot and actually start the power stroke prematurally, what i would recommend is getting some type of induction service and injector clean, and i am not talking about running a can of stuff thru the gas tank, that stuff works but not good enough, try to find a shop in your area that sells BG products and get a induction service, if u cant find BG find something similiar, there product is very good. that truck and computer was designed to run on 87 octane, another thing that might be causing the knockin is the mass air flow sensor, i would take it to someone and have them look at it.