PST Monoblock Centrifugal Water Pump Inline

PST Monoblock Centrifugal Water Pump Inline

Ref Price:

Loading Port:: Shanghai

Payment Terms:: TT OR LC

Min Order Qty:: 1 unit

Supply Capability:: 1000 unit/month

Inquire Now

Add to My Favorites

OKorder Service Pledge

Quality Product, Order Online Tracking, Timely Delivery

OKorder Financial Service

Credit Rating, Credit Services, Credit Purchasing

Specifications

Latest design by advanced technology.
1.monoblock water pump
2.high efficiency
2.inline pump
4.Centrifugal Water Pump

Product Description

Comply with requirements of Standard EN 733 (DIN 24255)

High efficient and energy saving

Wide operation range, Compact structure

Technical Data:

DN: 32-80mm

Flow rate: up to 250 m3/h

Head : up to 100m

Media Temp: -20°C to +130°C

System Pressure: Max. 16 bar

Power up to 10Hp

Advantage:

Comply with requirements of Standard EN 733 (DIN 24255)

High efficient and energy saving

Wide operation range

Compact structure

Wide application range

Back Pull-out Facility

All pumps incorporate the “back pull out” facility allowing the remove of the complete rotating element without disturbing the pipework. This features enables quick and simple maintenance to take place.

Interchangeability

Many of the components are interchangeable, this features resulting in a reduction in spares requirements, and an initial cost saving.

Excellent Bearing Housing Design

Incorporated with lifting eye to simplify removal of the rotating element during maintenance, “safe guards” are installed to prevent rotating shaft from human reach while in operation.

Main materials

Volute casing: Cast iron

Pump Cover: Cast Iron

Shaft: Carbon Steel or stainless steel

Impeller: Cast iron or Bronze or Stainless steel

Shaft seal: Gland packing seal or Mechanical Seal

Q: We bought a plot of land and me and my father found a deactivated water well in there. We checked and it's 328 feet deep and is still full of water.How would i go about setting up a pump on it?: Setting up a pump is not that difficult. But it all depends on the well itself. Is it 4 inches wide? Is there a drop pipe inside? You can research how submesibles, ejector pumps, and jet pumps work and install. Just do some searches online. It all depends on the type of well.

Q: A pump parameter is the maximum flow per hour 960L, followed by the standard flow of 480 what do you mean?: The parameter standard of the pump factory is determined by its efficiency, that is, the efficiency of the pump is highest at that point. All parameters have two curves, that is, a flow curve and an efficiency curve. You can according to your standard flow, see how much the efficiency of the point, the maximum flow efficiency is how much will know.

Q: Pump suction and pressure side road why should vacuum table and pressure gauge, and what role they have?: The pump suction and pressure side roads shall be equipped with a vacuum meter and a pressure gauge to monitor the operation of the system. When the pump is running, if the suction side of the vacuum decreases, indicating that the performance of water pump or water absorption pipe leakage; if the vacuum increases, it may be blocked suction pipe. The pressure on the water side is too large. It may be less water or the water pipe is blocked. If the pressure drops, the water consumption may increase or the water pump performance will decrease.The pressure gauges on the water side also play an important role in observing the pressure changes at the start of the pump to determine when to open the outlet valve. Usually larger pump starts, should first close the outlet valve to reduce the starting current, until the pressure of the pump rising and stable, then open the outlet valve.

Q: I had a re-manufactured water pump installed and after 14 months I started smelling my radiator occasionally. Never suspected the pump since my original pump lasted 60,000 miles and was still fine when they replaced it feigning quot;it is customary to replace water pump with timing beltwhen in actuality my Hyundai Elantra just needs the pump checked every 60,000 miles. The re-manufactured water pump was diagnosed leaking for sure after 20 months. Anyway I believe the leaking pump which didn't get discovered for at least 4 to 6 months caused the early demise of my radiator. Does that make sense?Thanks,Mitzi: completely unrelated and it is customary to replace water pump with timing belt BECAUSE the labor require to replace the pump is the exact same as replacing the belt. If the pump was to fail shortly after replacing the belt, you would have to pay for the same labor charge again and a leaking water pump will contaminate a timing belt requiring the belt to also be replaced. Your radiator developed a leak, that has nothing to do with your water pump

Q: i have a jetta and would like to know how difficult it would be to do. I know its a german car this is why i ask. thanks: The water pump is driven by the timing belt on that engine. You don't have to take the alternator, power steering pump, or the a/c compressor off, but you do have to make sure it is timed right. Not too hard to do, just make sure the marks line up. Good luck!

Q: I have a small stream by my backyard where my garden is and I want to use that water so I will need a pump with a hose attachment. What kind of water pump will I need to get for this?: Approach okorder /

Q: How hard is putting in a water pump for my 5-series on a 1-10 scale ?and how do i put it in ? details please !? i dont have a chitlon for it . ive worked a lot on this car and i do know some things about it, but not very car savy. Thank you !!: wow, first of all the car is pretty old, becareful. u may need new clips for hoses and gaskets. from 1-10 ill say 7.

Q: Hello, I'm having an issue with grinding/metallic noise from engine bay. Alternator was replaced today and didn't fix. However, when I got the car back from the garage the oil level indicator is saying quot;inactivequot;. I seem to find some answers on the web that say the oil level indicator is in some way connected to the water pump. Car has 95k miles on and I doubt it had been changed. Could this be the cause of the noise? And could anyone possibly tell me which pulley it is on the belt? Many thanks for your time :): Alternator replaced? Will you be getting credit back for that? Anyway, at 95k it's almost about time to do a full preventive maintenance thing. That includes the water pump, belts, radiator hoses, I would do the tensioner and idle pulley too since one is there already. Would replace the radiator expansion tank too. Change the spark plug and valve cover gasket too while you are at it. The spark plug can be done separately, but it's time to replace them.

Q: In case our electric goes out we would like to be able to run the water pump (for the well) via solar panel. Can you give me instructions, pitfalls, recommendations, links etc to help me get started?The more solar info i can get the better!thanks 10 points on offer!Our sunlight is unobstructed: Build okorder /

Q: Had a water pump start leaking, when I replaced it with a new one, it leaked even worse (around the gasket and O rings this time). The process I took...I unbolted everything and removed the water pumpI scrapped everything off with a wire brushI coated both sides of the gasket with red gasket siliconI mounted the new one and bolted it down tightening in a cross pattern(kinda difficult to get everything lined up)It leaked real bad the first time so I loosened the bolts and played with the top rubber seal to make it seat better.It leaked a little less the second time... but still WAY too much.I completely removed it the third time and (totally distroying the gasket) gooped it up with gasket sealer again, along with the O rings and tried again... leaked worse.Considering options... go with a white or black high heat siliconPossibly just using the sealer with NO gasketGooping the HECK out of it with JB-weld and pray!Suggestions?Know what I did wrong here?: The first thing I was taught on Volvo water pumps was to use NO sealer. Get yourself a new gasket.Make sure the block is clean. Install the gasket on the two studs. Grease the heater pipe o-ring after installing on the pipe. Grease the hole it fits into. Install the top seal on the water pump and coat the surface with grease. Install the pump on the block and make sure the pipe has entered the pump. Tighten the two nuts until the pump is almost contacting the block but still moves easily. Insert a smaller Phillips head screwdriver into the bottom bolt hole of the pump and into the block. Lift the pump ,using the screwdriver ,until you can start the top bolt.Then use the screwdriver to wiggle the pump to start the left side bolt. Once you have started those two bolts,the bottom one will go right in. Tighten it all up and install the heater pipe bolt and you are done.

Send your message to us

*Email

*TEL

*Quantity

*Unit