• Portable Sewage Pump Household With Convenient System 1
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Portable Sewage Pump Household With Convenient

Portable Sewage Pump Household With Convenient

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Loading Port:
Shanghai
Payment Terms:
TT OR LC
Min Order Qty:
1 set
Supply Capability:
1000 set/month

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Specification

Theory:
Centrifugal Pump
Exporting countries:
Ameircan,Japan,Australian etc
Application:
Sewage Pump
Item:
Portable Sewage Pump Household With Convenient
Material:
Cast Iron ;Stainless Steel
Power:
Electric

Portable Sewage Pump Household With Convenient


Company Introduce

My company has more than 40 years history, is the China general machinery pump industry association member units.

My company has organized product research and development team, experienced high, intermediate technical staff.

Complete production and processing, inspection, testing (pump performance test platform), and other equipment, to ensure that product quality is stable and reliable.

Over the department, provincial, municipal and industry product quality supervision and inspection (smoke), only one is qualified to go through.Timely quality perfect after-sales service in place, favored by the majority of new and old customers rely on and praise.

My company has successfully passed the national industrial products production license, ISO9001 quality system review replacement work.

Relevant product standards (enterprise), metrology, standardization management system, etc.,

 have been acceptance by the superior department in charge of the inspection.Related to product development, production management, sales and aftersales service, are performed according to the system management standard.


Application

This series pump is widely used for sewage treatment of city construction discharge for architecture projects, hotel, mine, pond, dyeing and printing, paper making and textile industries.

It is the ideal tool for transportation of sludge, slurry, living sewage, feces and stale wastes, solid grains fiber, paper chips, sandy soil etc.



Model Description


100 WQ 50-30-3
100: Drain aperture (mm)
WQ: Submersible sewage pump
50: Capacity (m3/hr)
30: Head (m)
3: Power (kW)

Operations Conditions


1. The medium temperature should not be over 60oC, the density 1200Kg/m3, and the pH value within 5-9.
2. During running, the pump must not be lower than the permitted lowest liquid level.
3. Rated voltage 380 V, rated frequency 50 Hz. The motor can run successfully, only under the condition the deviations of both rated voltage and frequency are not over ± 5%.
4. The maximum diameter of the solid grain going through the pump has not to be larger than 50% of that of the pump outlet.



Portable Sewage Pump Household With Convenient



Portable Sewage Pump Household With Convenient

Portable Sewage Pump Household With Convenient




Portable Sewage Pump Household With Convenient


Portable Sewage Pump Household With Convenient

 Pictures Show

Portable Sewage Pump Household With Convenient

Portable Sewage Pump Household With Convenient



 


 Trading market

Portable Sewage Pump Household With Convenient

Transportation

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Q:i have an 80' water well with an electric jet pump. is there an electric/manual water pump? i want to be able to have a hand pump attached to the electric pump, so i can still use water when the electricity goes out.
Yes but you need a hydrological manual secretor to recreate the same power as with electricity.
Q:Does the water pump pump the coolant into the engine or pump it out?
Strictly speaking, the pump is powered cooling fluid circulation, which is pumped into and out of the water pump is to rely on to complete the engine, the water tank and the pipelines are connected to form a closed loop, the engine cooling water tank, heat release, heat exchange by circulating cooling liquid, and let the power coolant flow up from the water, like the human heart as the power of the arteries and veins are provided by the contraction and relaxation of the heart of the.
Q:Where is the water pump located on a 1993 mitsubishi eclipse with a 1.8 motor
it is belt driven pulley near the center of engine, unless mitsu made that one timing belt driven in which case you can't see it with-out dissassembling front part of engine.
Q:One mechanic told me that my Toyota Corolla 2004 CE's water pump is leaking and I need to change pump and its belt costing me around $450. I took it to other mechanic today and he told that water pump looks good and no need to worry. I need to know how I can verify that water pump is leaking or not. Below are some facts of the car that I noticed myself.1. The engine collant level is above half level about at 70% 2. I started my car around 8.30 PM @ 90 degree F after break of 3 hours and the temprature gauge reach to half in 5 minutes.Please advice what can be done to determine the leak is there or not else I have to take it to other mechanic.
You did not say how many miles your 2004 Corolla CE currently has? We have owned 5 Toyotas from brand new and 211,000 miles is the most mileage we have gotten was on a 1993 Toyota Camry that did require radiator replacement. However, one of the more expensive preventive maintenance expenses requires replacement of Timing Belt every 75,000 to 90,000 miles when it also makes sense to replace Water Pump, Thermostat and both fan belts etc in one overhaul saving on expensive labor and normally being worry free of any breakdowns. If you are not overheating (meaning Temp Gauge runs normal) then I would say 1st Mechanic was just to put wool over your eyes but still one should always watch observe temperature gauge while vehicle is in operation and never run or drive if HOT <= put over to side of road and if recurring then carry gloves/bottle of water and see a good trustworthy mechanic. Hope the Above Info Helps!
Q:I would like to change the water pump myself but do not have a repair manual.
Im guessing you have the 3.4 liter engine. You will need to remove the pulley bolts first 10mm, then pull off the pulley and the belt. there should be a few 10mm bolts holding the water pump on, remove them and scrape off the old gasket with a scraper and then clean the rest up with some fine grit sandpaper. Don't scrub one area for too long because the surface is soft aluminum. you will need to spray some brake clean on a rag and clean up the surface so there is no coolant or dirt on it. Now put the new gasket on the new pump and put a thin layer of silicone on the side of the gasket that is going to mate with the engine block. Do not put silicone on both sides of the gasket. Make sure to note wich way you took the old pump out because it only goes in one way and torque down the bolts so they are snug, don't overtorque or you will strip the aluminum. Now you will need a half inch rachet to pull back the belt tensioner to be able to put the belt back on. There should be a picture of how the belt is routed somewhere under the hood. Don't forget to buy Dexcool (Red Antifreeze) Make sure you don't mix it with the green antifreeze. Good Luck
Q:My 2001 300M is behaving oddly. Occasionally it will gradually overheat after I have driven around for 15 or so minutes. Yes, occasionally. I took it to my mechanic who changed the thermostat and hoses. I then drove it on a trip on the interstate and over a mountain (140 miles ) It was fine with no signs of overheating. Then the next day when I drove to work in the city, the stop and go traffic had it overheating near the end of the trip. I've been able to keep it from going in the red by using the heater. After this happened most of the days, but not all, I took it back to the shop. He reported that the fans were working correctly and the only thing he could come up with is a weak water pump. He stated that when it did get hot, he was able to bring the temp down just by rev'ing the engine a little.Does that sound right? Any other ideas and how to test?
If he said the temp fell by revving the engine one of two things either the water pump is going out the bearing is failing and faster RPMS is pushing the water pump inside to spin faster and the bearing is starting to catch and work and spon the propeller OR the radiator is plugged or needs to be replaced. If the radiator is going bad it could be restricting water and more RPMS once again is pushing the water through the radiator to cool it. The other thing it could be is a radiator cap if it is not holding pressure then it will cause the water inside to boil slightly and make it hotter also. I would by a new cap and do the water pump. Those are the two cheapest. If that doesn't fix it then do a radiator.
Q:Bought a new water pump for my turtle tank can't get it to work
Pump has to be off Open the reservoir on the pump You have to use water already in your setup, fill a cup with it Fill the pump reservoir until full, then refill the cup, you'll need plenty of water you might need help here from someone at home, you also might need to hold pump, or the water might drain out as you work below Turn on the pump, while the pump is running,..... pour more water in reservoir until pump is pumping water. Have to close reservoir, then put pump where it belongs. In Pets Forum here, there's a sub-forum for reptiles, theres all kinds of help there for other turtle stuff. Good luck
Q:What do I get to bring a portAble water conection? Like as in bring a hose with you I gess? It's confusing how I described it but I just wanna use a garden hose so I can wash cars from my truck. Sorry it's hard to describe
A portable water pump. They come in a variety of sizes depending on your needs. A friend of mine runs a window cleaning service from the back of his truck. I don't know what size pump he has but I do know he also has a permanent water tank fitted as well as all the other fittings accoutrements for the job.
Q:How does a pump get water from a low low elevation to a higher elevation.
The simplest form of water pump is a plastic spiral where the outermost spiral dips under the water and out as it rotates. The spiral can be driven by attached paddles if the water is flowing. As the water progresses down smaller spirals the pressure increases. The water exits through a rotating coupling at the centre of the spiral. A single stage pump can only raise water 15 feet (1 atmosphere) A windmill is a good example of a simple pump where a lever moves up and down, A valve closes at the bottom of a tube on the up stroke and raises the water by the length of the stroke. This water opens a second valve near the top of the tube as soon as the upstroke starts and the water is pushed up. This pump does not work by creating a vacuum. On the downstroke the upper valve closes due to the raised water pushing on it, and also due to its own weight, and the lower valve opens from the water below pushing on it as the cylinder descends. At the end of the downstroke the valve closes under its own weight and the weight of the water above it and the cycle repeats To raise water higher than 15 feet using a windmill, it is necessary to install a small tank at, say 14 feet, with a second lower and upper valve in a tube. The first stage pump fills the tank which the second stage pump then lifts another 15 feet, This process can be repeated until the water reaches the surface, but a bigger windmill will be needed to power multiple pumps
Q:OK so i am new to RVing....I have an older 1971 trailer pull forester....It has a your normal fresh water inlet on the outside of the trailer, fresh water tank, and water pump. My question is actual a double part question #1 When i screw the hose on the inlet and start filling the water tank i hear it going in but i still have no water coming out the faucet...Does this have to do with the water pump? why am not getting water to anything except i hear the tank filling up?!?#2 Is the Water pump A/C or D/C......I have that little pull knob (that i guess turns it on or off) and i was curious if i needed to be hooked up to the Battery in front to make this work? or should it work with the regular AC that everything else is working on?Thanks for any help
I am not completely sure but i'll share my thoughts. I'm not certain but I think the water tank should have a seperate fill up. If your filling your fresh water tank and nothing is coming out of your faucet, my guess would be the water pump. Check and see if there is a reset button on your water pump switch. If not there should be a breaker for it located somewhere in the camper. But if you screw your water hose in to your camper and there is constant water pressure then there should be some water without having to use the water pump. If not then I'm stumped..

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