CA, CE, CF Type Heavy Duty Petrochemical Process Pump

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Loading Port:: Shanghai

Payment Terms:: TT OR LC

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Supply Capability:: 1000 set/month

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Single stage, horizontal volute casing pump with feet below and single entry impeller, end suction type. Depending on operating conditions hydraulic balance provided by front or wear rings and balance holes.
Full compliance with the latest edition of API 610, heavy duty fan cooled bearing housing, heavy duty and non-grout baseplates for PAU and offshore application.
Casing cover with cooling or heating connections, shaft sealing by packing or mechanicals seals of any design (single or double working), connections for cooling, flushing or sealing liquid.
Standard pipework according to API 682 Plans. Cooling system for high temperature pumping. Flanges according to DIN or ANSI.
CA working pressure up to 2.5Mpa, can be supplied with open impeller. (OH1)
CE working pressure up to 5.0Mpa, can be supplied with open impeller. (OH2)
CF working pressure up to 7.5Mpa. (OH2)

Material according to API610 standard

Application:
Petrochemical industry
Paper and pulp industry
Sea water Offshore industry
Coal processing
Refineries

Performance Range
Size 25 to 400mm
Capacity up to 2600m3/h
Head up to 350m
Working pressure up to 75bar
Operating temperature -80C to 450 C

Q: I have a 2004 Toyota Sienna and it has 80k+ miles on it. I guess it is the drive belt that is making the noise and I decide to have it changed. I can have the timing belt changed too because it is due at 90k miles. The dealer guy told me that I should also have the water pump changed too because of 2 reasons:1. the new timing belt will cause pressure to the old water pump. If not changed, it will leak in weeks.2. it is cheaper to do it altogether.Without changing the water pump, it would cost about $300.All would cost $1000+.My friend who also has a Sienna that has more miles on it, told me that he did not have to change the water pump.Your advice about the water pump is?: Change the the timing belt if it breaks you can bend a valve the smaller import engine have what they call a zero (0) tolerance.For the water pump it runs off of the timing belt so since your timing belt is already off you should change the water pump.Another words you will need to tear the timing belt back out in order to change the water pump not if but when it goes out.The dealer price is not bad for a dealer you might be able to save a little more if you shop around GOOD LUCK

Q: Water pump. A drip on the edge of the pump or drip on the ground. Serious concern on which one?: Anytime you see coolant leaking from a water pump it is time to replace it. The sooner the better.

Q: I have an 02 Gran Prix and my water pump is going out. With the recession I don't have the money to take it in. So can anyone give step by step instructions to help me fix it. I am a do it yourself kinda of guy so I am mechanically inclined. What tools will I'll need? is there a timing chain? How long will you think it will take me? Any thing i should pay attention to? How can I measure the pounds of torque that I put on the bolts or what tool will I'll need? Please help!!!: WP replacement mini-writeup 1. Empy Coolant from Radiator drain 2. Remove SC and Acc. belts 3. Remove the coolant resevoir tank 3. Remove the Idler pulley with a 15mm 4. Remove the 4 WP pulley bolts with a 8mm 5. Remove the 2 Power Steering Pump bolts with a 13mm(bolts are at 12:00 and 6:00 accessable through the PS pulley holes) 6. Push PS pump 1 inch to the side 7. Remove all 8 WP bolts with a 13mm and a 10mm(3 are 13mm/5 are 10mm) 8. Collect extra coolant until flow stops(a few cups) 9. Apply RTV to both sides of the gasket and WP bolts 10. WP bolts should be torqued to 11lbs+80*/Idler pulley bolt at 36lbs/WP pulley bolts at ~9lbs 11. Reinstall everything and fill the coolant back up 12.

Q: (used in business units, cities in the North)1, how many watts, head M?2 is it fixed or removable?3, portable or heavy?4, how many units? What brand is good (Fire Department, or flood control command, often used brand, model)?5, diving?: Each manufacturer's model is different, with submersible sewage pump is better,Submersible sewage pumps are portable, portable

Q: I keep having to add water to. Doesn't do anything when it's sitting up. But after you drive it straight for about 25 minutes. Time to add some more water. I figure it's the water pump. It's not leaking anywhere so it has to be a failing water pump. Oil still looks good, no smoking. AC and heater blows fine. Just runs hot after a while. I need another opinion. Its the 4 cylinder also. And yes it does be steaming. Tired of having to add water everyday.: Because it doesn't drip when it's just sitting shows you that it doesn't leak untill it's hot pressurized. So, drive it until the temp is 'normal', then stop but leave the engine running see if you can find the drip with the engine hot. Also, the water pump is not a 'normal' source for lost coolant - More likely a lose hose clamp....

Q: me and my friends are contemplating going on a road trip.almost 20 hours of driving.but we dont have a water pump, can you drive without one?: Safe - Yup Because you wont be driving for long, your engine temp will go through the roof fairly quickly and probably cause the head gasket to blow/engine to seize. It wont happen within two mins as the engine need to reach temp first and even without a pump it will circulate to a slight degree, but it is slight and NOT to be trusted or relied up, watch the gauge and how quickly after starting it goes into the red. Buy another water pump, get a fresh gasket, fit it, refill your system and enjoy the road trip.

Q: my 2003 dodge durango broke down 6 weeks ago. the mechanic put it on the diagnostic machine, and it said i needed a fuel pump and a water pump. well i got the fuel pump changed and he told me if i kept water in the car it could hold out for a little while until i get the water pump fixed. so i kept water in it it's been 3 weeks. saturday night all of a sudden i watched the temperature gauge jump to HOT! I pulled over and it was smoking like hell. i'm lucky a friend of mine drove by at that instant and went to his house and got me antifreeze and water and put it in the car. so it was fine sunday. then last nightafter i got home it was smoking again. i let it cool down and then filled it up with water. this morning i took my daughter to school and then drove to my other daughter's daycare and it was smoking like crazy and there was antifreeze and water all over the ground where i parked. so i left it at the daycare and got a ride to work. should i fix the water pump? or is: You absolutely have a enormous coolant leak somewhere. Could be some thing involving the cooling method. Do no longer force this vehicle or you'll spoil your engine for would probably be constant with a couple of bucks, if this can be a dangerous hose or some thing of the kind. Sounds such as you must be in a position to uncover the leak and not using a pressur experiment, seeing the way it runs low so speedily, however in any occasion, don't force this car and feature a technician as quickly as viable.

Q: I have a slight idea but I would like to see what steps other people have taken. I have a 1992 ford escort that needs a new water pump, what steps have you taken to replace it?: if you're going to do it yourself first I recommend getting the book for the car sometimes the library will have them..you also want to be careful when changing the water pump because your timing belt is hooked up to the water pump. If you misalign the camshaft or the crankshaft pulleys or turn them independently when the belt is off you can cause damage to the head of the engine (very important: your timing will be off..you don't want that). To start with though, you will have to take off your accessory belt and the accessory crank pulley, then take off the timing belt cover and use the crank shaft pulley to line up the marks that are on the pulley and the engine (on both the crankshaft pulley and the cam shaft pulley) carefully take the timing belt off (replace the timing belt and the timing belt tensioner..trust me it'll be worth it). You're going to have to drain the antifreeze before you take the water pump off. (I would also replace the thermostat because its cheap and you already have the fluid out) The install is pretty much the opposite. (again make sure the marks line up on the cam and crank pulleys and don't turn them independently when you're putting the belt back on) (short answer: get the book and/or have someone that's done it before help) when your done you can say you did it :)

Q: My house uses a pump that draws well water. With a family of four, I had never had a problem running out of water, even through 4 morning showers. Recently however, I have started running low and sometimes even run dry of water, although it’s now just me and my wife living at home. The pump is only a couple of years old. A couple of neighbors also have wells and pumps, so I don’t believe the water shelf has run low. The holding tank is at least 15 years old and probably older. I don’t know if it has a bladder, but I think it does. It’s a Wel-Trol brand. I’ve checked the pressure with a tire gauge and it holds at 30 psi. Also, it seems the cut in and out switch has a mind of its own. It especially would continue to run, even though the pressure hit cut-off level. Any ideas or suggestions?Thanks: Hmmmmm. I think I would look at the pressure switch here if you can confirm that the well does have adequate water in it. The next thing is the small pipe that the pressure switch mounts on. If it is galvanized these have a tendancy over the years to build up deposits and rusty scale and may need to be replaced. It sounds like you have the bladder style of pressure tank and that is a good thing. To check the proper pressure in the bladder watch to see the cut off pressure of the pump as it cycles. Note this. Turn the pump off and completely drain off the pressure tank. Check and adjust the pressure at the top of the Wel-Trol to be 2 to 4 pounds less than the pressure cutoff that you noted using compressed air. As the other posts have mentioned you also may have a leak in the pressure line to your house. The way to test this is turn off all the water to the house and see if there is a check valve in the T at the pressure tank. It will look like a tube about 2 inches in diameter and 4 inches long. Usually there is not one here as they clack when the pump shuts off. If there is not one note the pressure. See if it drops. There should be no drop. If it is a drilled well there may be a leak in the pipe down the well and this usually requires a visit from a well servicing company to determine. Hope this helps.

Q: Help?Water is to be pumped to the top of a skyscraper. If the pump can create a gauge pressure (pressure above atmospheric pressure) of 8.50E+5 Pa, what is the height of the tallest building that it can service? DATA: g=9.8 m/s^2: IF the pump can produce a static pressure of 8.5e+5 Pa, then it can support a column of water, h h = P/(rho*g) = 8.5e+5/(1000*9.8) = 86.7 m h = 87m Now, the water will have no velocity, so you can't use it effectively, but that's not what the problem asks!

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