• Oil Pump AY Series System 1
Oil Pump AY Series

Oil Pump AY Series

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General Description
Type AY Serious Oil pump is a new product designed on the base of old type Y oil pump which is suitable for renewing equipment with the aim of saving energy. It is used for petroleum refinery, petrochemical, chemical industry and other petroleum, liquefied petroleum gas and other mediums which are inflammable, explosive, toxic, high temperature and high pressure without solid particles.
Performance range
Capacity:2.3~600m3/h
Head:30~603m
Temperature:t=-45℃~+420℃

Instruction of pump type
For example:
1:250AYS80
250—Suction nozzle diameter (mm)
A:First reform
Y: Centrifugal oil pump
S:First stage impeller is double-suction
80: Head of single stage (m)
2:80AY100X2B
80:Suction nozzle diameter (mm)
A:First reform
Y: Centrifugal oil pump
100:Head of single stage (m)
2: Stage number
B:Impeller cutting code
Construction:
The construction of oil pump type AY is divided into eight kind single-stage and single-suction overhung, double-stage and single-suction overhung, single-stage and double-suction overhung, single-stage and double-suction with two ends supporting, double-stage and double-suction with two ends supporting, single-stage and double-suction with two ends supporting,multi-stage and ring section.
The single and double stage pump casing is installed horizontally with supported on the center line. The suction and discharge nozzle flanges are cast together on the pump casing and vertical upwards. The stuffing boxes and pump cover are cast together which can be installed with soft packing seal and mechanical seals such as balancing bellow and series. The water-cooled chamber jacket, which can be selected ,is installed outside of shaft sealing chamber the water cooled chamber will be installed only when required by customers or when the medium is water with temperature more the 66℃ and hydrocarbon compound with temperature more than 120℃.
A journal ball bearing and thrust bearing arranged back-to-back are installed on the bearing housing. The bearings are lubricated by flinger with thin oil. Cooling fins are cast outside of bearing housing which can be cooled by air(temperature is less than 120℃). The bearing housing also can be cooled by water(temperature is 120℃ to 420℃)
The pumps are driven directly by driver through the membrane coupling. View from motor end, the rotating direction is anticlockwise.

Q: I replaced the water pump on my 1997 acura cl 3.0 v6 vtec. I set the timing how alldata said to. (Lined up marks on timing drive pulley and both cam pulleys) and put it all back together. Now when I start it the motor runs rough for about 45 seconds then it smooths out but won't rev past 3000 rpm. What are some possibilites it could be?
reset the ecu, by disconnecting the battery cables off the battery for 30 mins and then reconnect them and see what happens
Q: does water pump sealers work?
If your talking about the water pump for a car it doesn't have any pumps those would be the radiator pumps that are connected to the water pump and transmission which keeps the radiator and transmission at a temperature that keeps the vehicle from over heating. If you have a overheating car and a mechanic told you your water pump has a leak then sorry you would have to replace the water pump but just don't go to a popular mechanic for that because it can get really expensive do your research and find you someone with a garage it cheaper because the part itself is not that expensive it putting it in that cost lol. Hope this helps.
Q: Why does the pump decay when connected in parallel?
Pump parallel mainly solves the problem of insufficient flow. After parallel, the flow is two and the sum of the pumps. When the flow rate increases, the pressure loss of the pipeline will increase, so the water pump flow in parallel will not be the sum of the two pump flow, but less than the sum of the flow rate. The solution is to increase the diameter of the water supply pipe, reduce the angle bend and shorten the distance.........
Q: The water pump doesn't seem to be leaking but I do have a leak under the engine in a place I can't get to. The water doesn't seem to be getting to the upper hoses of the engine. I do hear a odd sound like lose rocker arms but its hard to tell where its coming from.This engine is to big for this boat there is no room to work on it except to pull the engine. What was Four Winns thinking??? A simple fix is a major repair. Thanks
Just like you do on the car since they are built somewhat the same. Most engine water pumps for cars have weep holes one on top and one below the water pump shaft. When the seal goes it will leak from the holes. Second test is grab the shaft or pulley and move it up and down and side to side without the belt on it and if it clicks or moves around its bad. Or remove the pump and check to see if the impeller is broken off or missing..
Q: I have a 1997 mercedes 320e and it is leaking very bad. I need a temporary fix for the water pump, so that I can take it to the repair shop that is 10 min. away.
i don think you can do nething that will fix it temp...i would load your raidator up with coolant and put the heat on max to take the heat away from the engine put ur hazzards on and drive no more than 20mph...or have some 1 tie a thing tow rope arounf the front of the frame and have them pull you
Q: My pump is almost 4 years old, work normal till recently I noticed sand mixed water flowing out of the delivery pipe. What should I do to make it normal again?
Try raising the pump a couple of feet. You may eventually need the well cleaned out.
Q: 55KW how large is the water pump wiring?
Transmission within 100 meters, 70 square millimeter aluminum cable, or 50 square millimeter copper cable. If you exceed 100 meters, you'll have to add a number to the cable.
Q: Motor has over 200k miles. Water pump took a dump. Gear is very wobbly! primary timing chain tensioner off the right bank hasn't any tension on chain at all! Crank turns but doesn't turn the chain. So motor is way out of time for sure now.Found small piece of aluminum and 2 -1/2pieces of appears to be a spring pin. Am I correct to assume these pieces are from the water pump? A new chain and water pump I can see doing on this old motor! But? Any suggestions on what to do next before I waste my money? What kind of compression reading can I get with all the plugs out and manually turning the crank? Short answers of scrap it not welcomed! I'll determine that after I'm satisfied it's truly bad! Thanks!
I also own a 2001 Intrepid and recently had a water pump go bad which also broke my timing chain. The pieces of aluminum you found are probably valves or valve springs from the head. Mine broke every vavle and spring on one head when my engine jumped time and a few more on the other head that is probably what your seeing. Also you don't want to check for compression by turning the crank manually. It is an expensive job to fix but the cars are great but I wouldn't spend too much on them because they only go for about $3000-3700 in great condition nowadays. Good Luck
Q: I am creating a project where I must pump water to a helmet. If you have any ideas, thoughts, solutions, diagrams, etc. please? thanks
your question is not clear, do you need to build the pump from scratch or you should find one? what is the water flow rate? how high the water need to go? what the helmet has to do with the problem? simplest solution will be to go to the store and buy small hand pump (for fuel).
Q: Water is leaking from the front of my car, on the right where the radiator is located. only thing is that its not leaking a lot, just a little.... but people keep telling me that my timing belt is going to go out and that i will be stranded!. i will like to know the cost of both the water pump and timing belts for my 2001 PT Cruiser please.
Pt Cruiser Water Pump

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