Multistage Single Suction Centrifugal Pump DG Series

Ref Price:

Loading Port:: China Main Port

Payment Terms:: TT OR LC

Min Order Qty:: -

Supply Capability:: -

Inquire Now

Add to My Favorites

OKorder Service Pledge

Quality Product, Order Online Tracking, Timely Delivery

OKorder Financial Service

Credit Rating, Credit Services, Credit Purchasing

You Might Also Like

Fire Fighting Pump High Quality

Multistage Double Suction Pump High Quality

Submersible Solar Water Pump

Double Suction Split Casing Pump

Centrifugal water pump CWP2

Stainless Steel Casting Sewage Submersible Electric Water pump

WZB-S Stainless Steel Vortical Self-priming Booster Pump

Non-negative Pressure Water Supply Systerm in a Building

General Description

DG horizontal Multi-stage boiler feed pump can delivery clear water without solid particles or other liquid which the physical and chemical feature is similar with clear water. It is suitable for boiler feed water or deed water for high pressure boiler. The temperature range of the liquid is from -20℃ to150℃, and the inlet pressure is not allowed more than 0.6Mpa.

Performance range
Capacity : 3.75~ 288m3/h
Head : 50 ~ 1540m

Instruction of pump type
For Example DG25-80X10
DG — Single-suction, multi-stage, boiler feed pump.
25 — Pump capacity 25 m3/h.
80 —Single-stage head of pump 80m .
10 — pump stage number is 10.

Structure
DG series pump is single casing segmental multi-stage centrifugal pump, the main parts is stator, rotor, bearing and shaft.
Stator part: it mainly consists of suction stage, mid-stage, discharge stage and diffuser; they are strained through a lever and form a working chamber. The inlet and the outlet are vertical upward. The combined surface between each stage is sealed through metal surface and also with sealing o-ring as auxiliary seal.

Rotor part: it mainly consists of shaft, impeller, and balance drum and shaft sleeve. Shaft transfers power to impeller and make it work. The axial force is balanced by balance disc and there is rechargeable shaft sleeve to protect shaft.

Bearing part: It mainly consists of bearing body, shaft cover and sliding bearing. There are two single centripetal ball bearings in bearing body to prevent balance disk from abrasion. The sliding bearing is lubricated by dilute oil, there is cooling chamber in bearing body and the bearing can be cooled with exterior water.

Shaft seal part: shaft seal uses soft packing seal. It mainly consists of seal box, packing, packing ring and packing cover. The shaft is sealed, cooled and lubricated by exterior water from seal chamber. The mechanical seal can also be used as requirement and it need be cooled, lubricated and washed by exterior water.

Drive: Pump is directly driven by motor through flexible coupling. View from motor end, the rotating direction of pump is clockwise.

Material of main parts
The medium-contacting parts are made of cast iron .

Q: Pump flow 6M3/H is an hour, how many tons of water?: Flow 6M3/H, that is, an hour can smoke 6 tons of water. But according to the power, head and flow calculated by formula, the water pump efficiency is 98%, can it be achieved?

Q: I recently took my 2002 Pontiac Grand Prix in for an oil change, and was told that my water pump has burst. I knew something happened the previous night because all of a sudden my car was overheating and when I opened the hood there was water everywhere, Anyways I am currently a single mom, working temp jobs while I look for something permanent. I can not afford the 350.00 to get it fixed. If I continue to drive the car am I looking at serious damage, He showed me how to fill the water tank (or whatever) so that the car will not be empty, But he says I need to get it fixed soon: I will try to put this simply. It is very serious. Water cools your engine and without the pump to circulate it, your engine will overheat and very quickly damage itself. Even if you add water constantly, it is not being circulated, your engine will overheat and the new water you will put in will probably instantly boil and rush up into your face. My advice. Don't drive it until you can get it fixed. Sorry, I know this isn't what you wanted to hear, but I am concerned for your safety and I don't want you to wreck your engine and you will if you keep driving it. The damage you can do is like this. The engine overheats and seizes up. This means that the engine parts, pistons and rings have expanded beyond design limits. They break inside and wreak havoc. The crankshaft and big end bearings can seize also. If all this happens, you are looking at a reconditioned engine. Fix your pump. It's cheaper

Q: I just bought a house and we have well water. When I went out to change the filter on the pump I noticed a valve leaking...I went to check on it and noticed it had two settings if you will. one says System and the other says by pass if I move the lever to system the leak stops, if I move it back to bypass the leak continues...question is which one should I have it set on and what is the purpose?: Okay, Adam, we also have a well and just put in a new one. The setting that says System means that the water is running through the filter. The setting that says by pass means that the water is NOT running through the filter. You will have water either way in your house (or you should). It is just either, it is running through the filter, or it is not. I hope I have helped. gram

Q: antifreeze leaking from the water pump. antifreeze wont stay in car, car overheating. 96 chevy cavalier. 2.4: So what is your question? If you know the problem, either replace it yourself (which I would NOT recommend), or take it to a mechanic, to have it replaced. On this particular vehicle, it's a major undertaking, since the water pump is driven by the timing chain, if I recall correctly. To access it requires removing the engine mount, and front timing chain cover. Installation requires having the engine re-timed. Although I'm not familiar with GM products, as a rule of thumb, engines that use a timing chain, are usually an INTERFERENCE engine (which means piston/valve damage WILL result, if mistimed). The labour time guides lists 8 hours for this repair on this particular vehicle, with this particular engine. That should tell something, since water pumps are usually listed for about 2 to 3 hours labour on most vehicles. Hope this helps.

Q: I had a re-manufactured water pump installed and after 14 months I started smelling my radiator occasionally. Never suspected the pump since my original pump lasted 60,000 miles and was still fine when they replaced it feigning quot;it is customary to replace water pump with timing beltwhen in actuality my Hyundai Elantra just needs the pump checked every 60,000 miles. The re-manufactured water pump was diagnosed leaking for sure after 20 months. Anyway I believe the leaking pump which didn't get discovered for at least 4 to 6 months caused the early demise of my radiator. Does that make sense?Thanks,Mitzi: Completely unrelated issues. Radiators usually fail because of these reasons. Corrosion. Physical damage. Something like a stone getting thrown from another vehicle and hitting the radiator. Blockage. Deposits build in a radiator that must be routinely flushed. If neglected this can block the passages. Most antifreeze should be replaced every 3 years or 36,000 miles. You generally flush the cooling system at this time. Neglect this maintenance and your radiator can fail. There is nothing that a water pump can do to cause a radiator to fail on most engines. About the only way I could damage the radiator is on a rear wheel drive vehicle where the cooling fan is connected to the water pump, and a bearing fails, the cooling fan can come into physical contact with the radiator. You would hear this making noise. However, your car has an electric fan so this can't happen to your car.

Q: I just move to this house, it's been empty for a while. The water pump keep screeching everytime I turn it on. What can I do to get rid this noise?: You must have a surface mounted well pump also called a jet pump or you wouldn't hear a noise from a submirsable which is at the bottom of the well. Check where the motor hooks onto the pump itself to see if there are any small oil fittings. I doubt that there are, but it can't hurt to look. If you find any use 3M or similar oil to lubricate the bearings. If the house has been vacant for awhile those bearings might be rusty from sitting, and may stop swealing on their own as you use the pump and the shaft/bearings may grind the surface rust off and stop the noise. If they don't you will have to call a service company to evaluate the problem. Here is part of jet pump potential maintainence issues: Perform necessary pump maintenance: some water pumps require inspection and replacement of internal parts such as bearings or impellers as often as after just four or five years of use. While it may be possible to ignore this maintenance for a while, the effect may be to so wear the pump or pump motor parts that complete pump or pump motor replacement are necessary.

Q: Is there a way to test and see if it is the water pump that causes the car heater to blow hot air one time and then, next time it blows cold air? We flushed the heater core and did other tests, so we do not believe it is the heater core. We left the radiator cap off and ran the car (ford thunderbird..'94) for 20 minutes and watched the antifreeze level come up, but doesn't go down, not circulating. We cannot afford to go to another garage. None of them seem to know what to do anywyas and we keep paying people to fix the heater and it is not fixed. We have put two new thremostats in car, too, figuring that maybe the first one may have been faulty, but should we try that again?: On many cars you cannot see the coolant circulating especially at idle. Just because you do not have heat does not mean the water pump, and if your car is not overheating it is probably - I say probably - doing its job. So stop putting thermostats on, probably assume the water pump is okay. So, put a thermometer into the radiator to see how hot the coolant is getting - should be ~180 degrees or so. Hmmmm - Does this car have an electronic climate control system? Perhaps that is the reason you have an intermittant problem. Assuming manual climate control - It could be a vacuum leak to one of the manual vents that is allowing cool air to mix with the hot. Or, maybe the slider from hot to cold is not working. What troubles me is the intermittant problem here. So, I will go out on a limb and say it could possibly be a bad head gasket for reasons I will not get into here. In any case, Good Luck!

Q: can this happen that pump is pressurizing system and no flow in suction.: Hey Gamel..Lets see if i got this question right..You have a circulation pump in a hot water line. this line is a closed loop when no faucets are on. When you let the system circulate for a while say during the day there seems to be a build up of pressure in the storage tank. You were wondering if a plugged loop in the hot water line would cause a dramatic water pressure increase.. the answer is YES..but NOT from the PUMP..the type of pump most people have requires that flow through the impeller be available at all times or two things will happen !. it will cavitate (that's a gurgling sound at the pump) or 2. It will only beat the water that is in the pump and no flow will be apparent. Either one of these though could be a symptom of a plugged hot water line in the loop. Here is what happens to increase the pressure apparent.. The water on the loop is pressurized from the storage tank to the pump then out to the loop .If the loop is terminated and air gets into the end of the line next to the restriction the outside water pressure is acting like a piston compressing the air that air reacts the same as it would in any compressor and can reach higher than normal operating conditions. If you will find the plug and install an expansion bladder in the highest part of your line your flow ,pressure and noise problems will stop...Good luck with the search...From the E

Q: How to introduce water pump?: First, to explain the basic parameters, such as pump flow, head, motor power, efficiency, outlet diameter, single-stage pump or multi-stage pump, fixed pump or submersible pump, water pump or sewage pump, deep well pump, self suction pump etc..

Q: HelloI am building a small budget underground room. On top of a very waterproof and airtight (besides vents) building, and running a dehumidifer inside, I would like to install a pump underneatth the foundation to suck out water from the soil surronding the building but I'm not sure what kind of pump would be best?Also how would b e the best way to set this up?: What you want is called a sump pump. Most have a system built into them that is triggered by rising water. The idea is to have a hole beneath that allows the inevitable water that will collect a place to go, then when a certain amount gets in the hole, the sump pump comes on and pumps it out to wherever you have the hose or pipes ran to. Being underground, good luck keeping the humidity level down. It won't be easy, and much depends on where your natural water table is, and what it is during rains. Someone in your area might know all that, I don't.

Send your message to us

*Email

*TEL

*Quantity

*Unit