• LED car headlamp Ultra slim ballasts-12V 35W-AC HID bulbs-Tc bulbs,HID bulbs-H1,H7,H11,9005,9006,880 System 1
  • LED car headlamp Ultra slim ballasts-12V 35W-AC HID bulbs-Tc bulbs,HID bulbs-H1,H7,H11,9005,9006,880 System 2
  • LED car headlamp Ultra slim ballasts-12V 35W-AC HID bulbs-Tc bulbs,HID bulbs-H1,H7,H11,9005,9006,880 System 3
  • LED car headlamp Ultra slim ballasts-12V 35W-AC HID bulbs-Tc bulbs,HID bulbs-H1,H7,H11,9005,9006,880 System 4
  • LED car headlamp Ultra slim ballasts-12V 35W-AC HID bulbs-Tc bulbs,HID bulbs-H1,H7,H11,9005,9006,880 System 5
LED car headlamp Ultra slim ballasts-12V 35W-AC HID bulbs-Tc bulbs,HID bulbs-H1,H7,H11,9005,9006,880

LED car headlamp Ultra slim ballasts-12V 35W-AC HID bulbs-Tc bulbs,HID bulbs-H1,H7,H11,9005,9006,880

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100% Shockproof

100% Waterproof

Model: AC12V/35W

Working Voltage Scope: 9-16V DC  9V-32V

Rated Voltage/Current: 12.5V/3.2A -+5A   3.5A

Operating Temperature: -40 ~ 105°C, ≤3000M Altitude

Store Temperature: -40 ~ 150, ≤3000M Altitude

Max. Start Voltage: 23kV

Switch Time : >100000 Times

Working Output: 35W±3W

Working Efficiency: ≥97%

Working Load Output Voltage: 85Vdc±10Vdc

Luminous Flux: 2500-3500LM (3X More Luminous Flux Than Halogen)

Lifespan: Above: 2500h (Up To 5 Times Longer Than Halogen)

Power Consumption: Saves You 57 Over Halogen

H3, H4, H7, H8, H9, H11, H13, 9004, 9005, 9006, 9007, 880/881, H4L, H13L, D1S, D2S, D4S etc. Are the types of our bulbs. We just listed one model


1. Input Voltage: DC9-16V nomal 12V
2. Output Power: 35W 55W
3. Startup Time: Max. 5.5A
4. Size of proudct: 86*73*33mm


We set-up the rigorous working flow, from production to delivery, until after-sales service, our aim is to achieve our customers' satisfaction


Working Power: 35W /55W

Working Current: 3.5A/5.5A

V-in: DC9V-DC16V

I-max: 5.8A

Cable length: 340mm

Weight: 300g


If customer want express shipping service, please contact us before purchase. We offer EMS, FedEx, UPS express saver and DHL. All extra shipping cost will be paied by buyer,or thedefault shipping way

is China Post.


Q: 2001 audi a4. Along with the traction light (exclamation point ) breaks seem to be working fine though. But when i do turn on a curve going right, i hear a noise in the front left wheel but its not flat or anything. Anyway, It was on when i drove to school, then when i got out of class, (like 3 hours later) it was off the whole ride home. School is about 20 minutes away. So if i take it to auto zone will they help me out? And is it safe to drive?
Good scan tool do the job, not small ones, Snap on, or launch ect.
Q: I think there‘s something wrong with my fuel system but I want to be sure because if if not,I‘m out $100 for the test.There is a recall on the fuel system.Here‘s what it‘s doing: I drive a lot of h-way time.About 2-3 months ago I started hearing a loud humming noise coming from the engine.I‘m just driving along with cruise control on even and just out of the blue the engine will begin humming.It‘ll start soft,get louder and then stay at one pitch.When I take my foot off the gas,it dies down and then everything sounds normal,but once I apply the gas, it doesn‘t take but a few minutes and it comes back.I had new spark plugs installed around the time my engine light started staying on for longer periods because it does go off but it doesn‘t stay off for more than one trip,I‘ve always gotten 30mpg and still am.I can‘t afford to be out $100.Does anyone know if this is fuel system related, or not?I‘ve heard Ford‘s are known for bad fuel pumps, is this true?
THE VERY FIRST THING YOU DO IS FREE. Take it to an Advanced Auto Parts store and have them check the trouble code. They will do this for free and it takes less than 5 minutes. This will tell you if that the ECM has detected a problem and it will tell you what it is. If its something to do with your fuel system (i.e. lean mixture) than start with a new fuel filter. They are $7 and take less time to replace than checking the trouble code. The problem also could be an air intake leak.
Q: i have a 2000 impala and the service traction system light has been coming on and the light trac off is?
Like the other answer said it's most likely the wheel speed sensor...the PCM will store the code however if it's not an active code I wouldn't go changing stuff....sometimes it can be the wiring(the wiring in that area SUCKS). If it happens again go to a dealer or a trusted shop, not some idiot behind a parts counter.
Q: car stalling/cutting out,check engine says bad heated o2 sensor,replaced both already.twice actually to make sure parts werent faulty.reset the codes and they come back on after about half an hour of driving.also est off light comes on at same time.what do i do now?
Well Shaun aren't you happy I have the same car and have experienced the same problem. Believe it or not, the cutting out is being caused by the EST system and not the Heated 02 sensor. I wouldn't have believed it either, but it happened to me. Let me explain why. The EST is also part of the ABS system. I don't know whether or not your GrandAm is also turning on the ABS light. But what happens is, if a fault is detected it automatically turns off the EST system and most of the time it will Turn on the ABS light. Even playing with the button on the shifter won't turn the EST back on. So why does it make the engine cut out? Because there is a problem with one of your wheel speed sensors. The same wheel speed sensors that send a signal to the ABS system are also used to tell the PCM if the car is losing traction on take off. For instance, if the vehicle is in the snow and you accelerate and lose traction, the ETS system reduces engine power to allow the wheels to stop spinning and gain traction. When a wheel speed sensor fails, it sends all kinds of weird signals to the PCM and causes the engine to cut out even when the traction is perfectly fine.You are feeling this as a bad engine cut out on acceleration. So how do you correct it? You need to determine which wheel speed sensor is failing. On my Grand Am it was one of the front wheel speed sensor. I just replaced both and the engine stopped cutting out. I was very surprised. As far as your heated 02 sensor code? I can't help you there.
Q: What is the car headlamps?
Rainbow life is normally higher than fluorescent and incandescent
Q: Recently my tail lights have quit working. My brake lights still work.Recently my car was acting kinda weird. When I would use my turn signal for the first time, it would auto lock the doors. That stopped after about 4 days. then, when I turn on my lights, the fasten seatbelt light flashes and buzzes at me. Last weekend that stopped after about 4 days.I have checked the fuse box, the fuses under the hood, and the wires connecting to the tail light unit.Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated. Thanks
i own a shop and try looking on the left side tail light ,for a small box that clips on it,and has a wiring harness on it,this is a control unit for the rear lighting system,I'm not sure if they used it on all Suzuki,s but i think they did,and this thing will short out,and make the lights go crazy on it,Nissan used them also,and it caused a lot of problems,its not an expensive little unit ,but it can cause some real headaches in trying to trouble shoot a wiring problem,yours may not have one but if its there try getting a good used one from a junk yard and see if that doesn't fix it,good luck with it,i hope this helps.
Q: I have a problem with a 1985 Chevy G30 van with the hydroboost system.The brakes are locking up from time to time and also are grabby at times. I know that the front brakes are locking up but I am not sure yet about the rears. If I let it set for a while the pressure bleeds of and they may be OK for a week or more. I have bled the front brakes to remove any dirt. Opening the bleeders does not to seem to instantly release the brakes either. The brake pedal does not seem to be sticking and the actuating rod length has never been changed.I have been told the master cylinder will not cause this. What about the hydro booster or proportioning valve? The brake system warning light DOES NOT come on when this happens.I am desperate here as this is the truck I use to make my living as a contractor.If anyone has experienced this please contact me.
Its prolly low on fluid.
Q: I want to buy a CAN/OBD II compliant Auto Scanner (gets codes for check engine light of vehicles from 1996-present) for vehicles of domestic and foreign (Asian/European) origin in the price range of $100-$400. Any suggestions?
Check lines to evaporative canister. Also check canister itself for physical damage. Test coil on purge relay for opens or shorts. Best to you! ;-)
Q: Went to the dealership where I bought my Hyundai Tiburon. My ABS light stays on. They brought it to the back and told me it was my speed sensor on my right rear tire or front tire and it needed to be replaced. Does this sound right? I figured it would be an o2 sensor. Also, they are wanting to charge me $300 to fix it. Are they fairly easy to fix if I did it myself?
The O2 sensor is for the ENGINE air/fuel mixture and is NOT your problem! The ABS Light is for the ANTI LOCK BRAKES! Many times it is just because the BRAKE FLUID has spoiled, believe it or NOT! ALL BRAKE fluids SPOIL and turn into SLUDGE, GOO, and CORROSION after about 2 years of use! BENZ says every YEAR! As it absorbs moisture from the air, the BOILING POINT and other , and hose and line rot over time as well as a FAILED MASTER CYLINDER! if EVERYONE changed their BRAKE FLUID on time, they would save THOUSANDS in brake repairs! YOU MAY also have a failed REAR WHEEL SPEED SENSOR but try a FULL FLUID CHANGE FIRST! Many times after getting a BRAKE JOB done, they tamper unknowingly with the ABS SPEED Sensor which is on that REAR WHEEL! Check WHO did your BRAKE WORK and ask them to FIX THIS FOR YOU! But FIRST, have that BRAKE FLUID POWER BLEED and REFILL done! AS the fluid AGES it gets THIN and leaks begin to occur and the SLUDGE and GOOEY BUILDUP will tear apart DUST SEALS and piston seals and ABS seals! ISN'T IT WORTH IT to have it changed then! use ONLY the factory fluids and NOT the crap from the auto part stores! GOOD LUCK TO YOU!
Q: My check engine light came on about a month ago, I took it to the shop and they told me it was due to a fuel system leak. They did a pressure smoke test and couldn‘t find any leaks. My light is back on and i took it to advance auto parts and they hooked it up and said the light was on due to a loose gas cap, so we cleared the code. I bought a new gas cap and now the light is back on. Should I take it back to the shop and spend more money to be told the same thing? Or is there something I can do for cheap, like a gas treatment?
Gas treatment won't do it. What was the code? BTW, NEVER take advice from auto parts store clerks. If they knew how to fix cars, they'd be fixing them and making a lot more money.

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