AC HID ballasts-Big ballasts,HID bulbs-H1,H7,H11,9005,9006,880
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100% Shockproof
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Model: AC12V/35W
Working Voltage Scope: 9-16V DC 9V-32V
Rated Voltage/Current: 12.5V/3.2A -+5A 3.5A
Operating Temperature: -40 ~ 105°C, ≤3000M Altitude
Store Temperature: -40 ~ 150, ≤3000M Altitude
Max. Start Voltage: 23kV
Switch Time : >100000 Times
Working Output: 35W±3W
Working Efficiency: ≥97%
Working Load Output Voltage: 85Vdc±10Vdc
Luminous Flux: 2500-3500LM (3X More Luminous Flux Than Halogen)
Lifespan: Above: 2500h (Up To 5 Times Longer Than Halogen)
Power Consumption: Saves You 57 Over Halogen
H3, H4, H7, H8, H9, H11, H13, 9004, 9005, 9006, 9007, 880/881, H4L, H13L, D1S, D2S, D4S etc. Are the types of our bulbs. We just listed one model
- Q: What are the contents of the modified car headlamps?
- Unauthorized modification of the lights, the annual inspection will be unable to pass /
- Q: There are some other similar questions about this but can‘t find the righ answer. Here‘s what happened. My girlfriend and I cleaned the carpet on her 02 Honda Civic LX. So for better access, we removed both front seats. When done, we wanted to move the car foward a lil bit so I started up the car (this is with no seats) and moved it. After installing the seats back and connecting the cables for the seat belt restraints, we turned on the car once again and the SRS light was showing. I‘m pretty sure it went off when we started the car with no seats the firs time but did not realized it untill we were done. So my question is, how can I remove the freaking light? I tried disconnecting the battery for like an hour with no change. All cables are connected properly. Would a scan tool remove the light? If so, is it safe to do it and would all restraint systems will work normaly?
- Yes, you need an OBDI scan tool. If you connected everything correctly, it will be ok.
- Q: Why is my 1994 Honda accord check engine light on? I recently drove from new jersey to south carolina this passed thursdayabout 10 hour drive I would say approx 200 miles or something. I change the oil regularly, have oil all systems go . Except now my check engine light comes on and off now and it never did ever and I‘ve had the car 4 years now. Anyone who moves or lives in the south knows you must have a car or your like nonexistent. Someone with auto knowledge please help me because I always maintain my car and would like to keep it running great as hondas are known for if maintained properly which I do a good job of.
- i would take it to a auto store like auto zone they will plug it in to a tester for FREE and tell you what is wrong with it uld just be a Sensor
- Q: i have a 1994 Plymouth Acclaim with a 4 Cyl Motor and the Check Eng light comes on after i start driveing it for a few miles after the motor worms up really good. so i tho it needed a tune up so i replace the Plugs Wires cap and rotor and new air filter. so it still did the same thing took it to auto zone and they told me it was the inline fuel filter so i replace that and i just put a new fuel pump in to cus i tho maybe that was it but it still dose it. i been useing fuel cleener and that don‘t help. what could it be?? please help.
- I believe you can get a code by turning the ignition key on and off three times then back on and wait for the check engine light to blink. You gotta watch careful It might only blink once pause then two then five. What you have to do is count the flashes and write them down. That code will tell you what the problem is. Assuming none of the other lights are red or amber it is safe to drive but watch the temperature guage and the oil light or guage carefully. You might have and emissions sensor going but the code should pick that up.
- Q: One morning, car wouldn‘t start. Checked battery at AutoZone: OK. Removed starter, cleaned connections (did not test) and reinstalled: car started and continues to start. Only problem is that the battery light is on and the message check charge system displays on the dashboard. Battery light goes off after some 10 - 20 minutes of driving (especially above 2,000 RPM), but continues to come back on when I start the car.I haven‘t had a chance to stop by AutoZone to have a full system diagnostic. Is this still related to the starter? Alternator? Battery? Any tips, greatly appreciated. Thanks!
- Have your alternator checked out at Auto Zone. It probably wouldn't hurt to have your codes pulled by your local mechanic, because they will give you a better idea of the problem.
- Q: Fuel gauge was not registering and diagnostic could not find problem but mechanic installed the ELD sensor and this seemed to solve the problem with the fuel gauge although mechanic did not think there was anything wrong with fuel gauge. That problem was in February. This month I brought the car to dealer because of engine light. I was told to bring in car early in morning (6Am) because it will require more diagnostic work to determine why engine light stays on. They mentioned emission problem. I passed NY emissions Inspection a few weeks ago.
- The malfuntion indicator lamp (MIL) is controlled by an on-board diagnostic system that checks the integrity of the emissions control system and its individual components to ensure that the vehicle is running in compliance with federal test standards. If the system detects a problem with any monitored system or component on two consecutive test cycles (in most cases) the check engine light will be turned ON. There are over 160 conditions that are tested that could cause the light to be turned on. in most cases a dealer or auto parts store can simply check for the code and tell you if it is a minor problem such as a loose gas cap or if it is something that will require a more extensive diagnosis. Without knowing the fault code, it is impossible to speculate on whether it is a new problem or related to a previous one. However, I'd recommend taking it to the dealer as there are still some items that are covered under the emissions warranty (most items are no longer covered but the expensive ones are). hope that helps
- Q: When we are driving on the highway the service engine light will come on sometimes and then flash, and as its doing that the rpms go really high and the speed drops down. Any ideas why?
- The top person is semi correct but wrong on the tranny. Any time the CEL flashes, it means the issue that the ECM is seeing is a possible Catalytic Converter damaging concernt that is happening usually it is a misfire or anything that can cause raw fuel to enter the exhaust from being unburned most likely from a miss. No transmission issues will ever cause it to flash ever!!!!!!
- Q: My 04 Jeep Cherokee check engine light came on this morning. I was warming up the car for about 15 minutes, and upon my getting into the car to leave, noticed the light.It has 69,000 miles on it as of today, and I had the oil changed about 3 weeks ago. I checked the gas cap and it was on properly.Is this a ploy by the manufacturer to get me to the dealer around 70,000 miles? Or is there an actual problem?
- i heard stories of certain jeep models involved in the ploy to allow the light to come on at around 70,000. not sure if this is a ploy or not, But , I would suggest that you reset your system by entirely disconnecting the battery. then reconnect it . If the light comes back on soon- then have the code read by autozone or your local auto store- they usually do this for free. the code will indicate which system is faulty and allow a quicker diagnosis as per sensors that may be affected. i hope this helps
- Q: My dad and I are replacing the engine in a golf cart with a bigger one from a snowmobile. The mechanics of the whole operation are taken care of, but we are not sure about the electrical system. the old engine used a starter generator to start and generate power for the lights and such, but the snowmobile engine has a standard starter motor and an alternator built in. We have no idea what kind of system it used for charging the battery. We have the regulator from the old engine and are wondering if we can use this. It is an old mechanical style one with three connections. D+, D-, and DF. Can we use a full wave bridge rectifier to convert the AC from the alternator into DC and then smooth it out with a capacitor and run that power into the old regulator? I‘m not sure how to connect the regulator as we accidentally removed it before taking note of how it was connected. Basically I want it to be able to run the carts lights and recharge the battery after starting.
- These labels mean Dynamo +, Dynamo - and Dynamo field. The plus and minus are the auxiliary output just for the regulator if there is a B+ on the alternator. The field is fed from the regulator, and this is the smaller wire or connection usually. The link below shows the connections. The ignition/charge warning light is necessary to get the alternator started. The wire from B+ to the battery handles the full output current of the alternator. The regulator connections are all 10A automotive wire. The minus side of the battery is grounded at the engine body and this carries the full starter motor current. It is possible there is another ground connection for the lights etc. This goes to the battery negative. There must be a connection between the battery and the alternator frame that can carry the full alternator output. This may be the engine body through the starter motor ground. Some alternators have the regulator built in to the brush holders. The old mechanical regulator will only work if both are thesame voltage, like 12V. If in doubt you can always get an auto electrician to do it. Do the wiring as you think and get them to fix it, so the labour is less.
- Q: Im looking into building an AR-15. I have done research on the barrel already as i have settled on a 1:8 twist as it can shoot just about anything except the really light stuff. I have an idea of what stock i want, and the stripped lower also. What i am looking into now is bolt carrier groups, trigger assemblies, and gas/piston systems. What i would like to know about each is what are some good assemblies, the pros and cons, and some good resources. I know nothing about these. Also keep in mind I am not planning on purchasing my first part of this gun this year, so I am in no rush to get this project completed. I want this rifle to last a lifetime so i want to get the best.
- what are u trieing 2 tell us? i dont understand what ur saying means? how are we sopposed to answer a question we dont understand? does everyone agree? truly, nicole.
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AC HID ballasts-Big ballasts,HID bulbs-H1,H7,H11,9005,9006,880
- Ref Price:
-
- Loading Port:
- China Main Port
- Payment Terms:
- TT OR LC
- Min Order Qty:
- -
- Supply Capability:
- -
OKorder Service Pledge
Quality Product, Order Online Tracking, Timely Delivery
OKorder Financial Service
Credit Rating, Credit Services, Credit Purchasing
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