• HYK/HYS Series Chemical Submerged Pump(API 610) System 1
  • HYK/HYS Series Chemical Submerged Pump(API 610) System 2
  • HYK/HYS Series Chemical Submerged Pump(API 610) System 3
HYK/HYS Series Chemical Submerged Pump(API 610)

HYK/HYS Series Chemical Submerged Pump(API 610)

Ref Price:
$1,000.00 - 50,000.00 / set get latest price
Loading Port:
Shanghai
Payment Terms:
TT or LC
Min Order Qty:
1 set
Supply Capability:
1000 set/month

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1. Description

HYK series chemical submerged pump

Conform to API610 standard

Vertical centrifugal pump of single stage, end suction, with open impeller.

HYS has the same structure and performance with HYK series pump. The wetted parts can be used the special material, suitable for the high temperature, high concentration liquids, such as concentrated sulfuric acid and in other acid environments.


2. Technical Data

Capacity: 6~400m3/h

Head: 5~80

Temperature: -20~200℃

Nozzles: DN25~150mm

Pressure: 2.0MPa


3. Application

Paper-making, metallurgical, fertilizers, salt collecting, drainage industries.

Conveying the pulp below 8% density and other liquid with the solid content below 30%


4. Materials

For wetted parts in contact with medium, the common materials are as followings:

S.S.304, 316, 316L, TA2, MCU, DTM, Cr15Mo3, M-3 etc.


5. Pump Structure

HYK/HYS Series Chemical Submerged Pump(API 610)


6. FAQ

1       Are CNBM pumps available in DIY stores?

Yes, currently, we’re available for DIY stores all over the world.

2       Where do I have to send pumps for service?

You must send them to the CNBM PUMP Service Point or, after contacting Customer Care, to the CNBM PUMP service center in China.

3       Are your pumps acid-proofed?

To choose the right pumps for chemical applications, we do need further details on hydraulic operations as well as on the type, concentration and temperature of the liquid.

4       Can your pumps mount Eff.1 motors

Currently, only on request though this will shortly be a CNBM standard.

5       Are your pumps protected against dry running?

No, unprotected centrifugal pumps are not generally designed for dry running. It is important to give us or your dealer as much information as possible about the system in which the pump is used. Inlet pressure, the type of liquid to be pumped, together with relative density, viscosity and temperature, for example, are required in order to allow CNBM to recommend the right pump with the right gaskets for a long operating lifetime.

Q:I switched on the pump and smoke came out of it, i opened the pump n found it hadsome water probably caused the shock. How to repair it or is it dead?? ** its not a wellpump just a normal one that pump the water to the tank from a small reserve
All electrical things work on smoke - once the smoke escapes then they don't work. Seriously if water got into the works its probably burned out and needs to be replaced - having the motors rebuilt on these things usually costs more than a new one
Q:How do I know the pump pressure?
The "H=100M" in the parameter is the pressure index of the pump. "H" is the height of the head and the height of 100m. Since the 10M lift is approximately equal to 1Kg/cm2 pressure. Your pump is 10Kg/cm2 pressure.Q=18 M3/H, that is, 18 cubic meters of traffic per hour;H=100M, that is, rated head 100M, high head;P=4.0 KW, that is, the motor power is 4 kw.
Q:Where is the water pump located on a 1993 mitsubishi eclipse with a 1.8 motor
Your water pump would be located on the right hand side of the motor. It has the fan belt running on the pulley in front of it the top water hose is connected to it. I hope this has helped you out.
Q:I'm looking to buy a used 2001 Protege. The car is nearing 75000mi, but the owner has not changed the timing belt or the water pump. I found out that it is recommended to change the timing belt at 60000mi, but couldn't find anything on the water pump. Realistically, when would I need to replace these, and any idea how much it would cost?Thanks!
That could have either the 1.6 liter or 2.0 liter engine. My information shows that if you have the 1.6 liter, at least you don't have to worry about bending valves against pistons if the belt breaks -- you'll just be stuck out on the road until you can get it towed and fixed. Not so with the 2.0 which is an interference engine. So if you DO have the 2.0, pay attention -- you don't want an expensive breakdown! You're on borrowed time at 75K. For both engines, Mazda recommends that you replace the timing belt every 60K miles. Gates (a major replacement supplier) seems to think these belts will go 105K. Since it's a factory belt, stick with 60K. As for the water pump, it's often one of those while you're already in there sort of things when you're doing a timing belt. 60K makes it a tougher call, especially with the better quality of water pump bearings and seals. If your interval were 80K ~ 100K as is true on some cars, I'd say go for it without blinking. As cheap as it'll be (it's really just the price of the pump), and it was my set of wheels, I'd do it anyway, even at 60K, if it needed to be pulled to do the belt.
Q:I would like a website that has pictures but any info would be helpful...
Even if you put the auxiliary water pump on its still going to leak. The water will still circulate through it. All you need to do is buy a gasket and some silicone, spend a total of $50 and fix it.
Q:What is the reason that the water supply of pump is getting smaller?
What kind of pump is it, home pump or factory pump? Single stage impeller or multistage impeller? Vertical or horizontal? Is it single suction or double suction? Different structure of the day pump has different causes of failure. But in general, there are several aspects: 1., the water inlet is small, the inlet pipe is blocked; 2., the blade is worn or broken; 3., the motor speed drops; 4., sealing serious leakage; 5., cavitation phenomenon.
Q:i have a 1960 ford f100 and i was wondering if its better to have an electric water pump or mechanical. ive heard mechanical is worse because at low rpms it doesnt put as much water into the motor but i wasnt sure how true that was. What was is better so that my truck doesnt overheat? and how much better is one over the other if electric will just be a little better is it even worth using? also will i need to change anything on my motor to be able to put an electric water pump on it or will it just bolt on like the mechanical one does
Whoever told you that meeds to be slapped. Most elec water pumps do not flow enough coolant for daily street use, and they do not have along enough life span for daily use The mech. pumps are in the 50-60 gallon per min range on flow. Most elec units are in the 16 to 37 gallons per min range on flow. Yes they do have a few that moves 40-55 gpm but you will PAY for those. $536 for a 55 gpm flow elec pump for a ford.. It also draws 10 amps as while. I'm not a big ford man so I'm not sure about your alt, but on chevys of that age they only had a 37 amp unit... Drawing about 1/4 of the amps for just the water pump won't work so weill. You will need to update the charging system Most will only last about 5,000 hours awell... Some of the better ones says 10,000 hours.
Q:I have a 2000 A4 1.8 T with 91 k miles on it. I went to the dealer for my oil service. I told them that I hear a quot;clinkingnoise when I start the car and that it goes away after the car runs for 5 minutes. I told them to check this also. They diagnosed and said that the water pump has gone bad and needs to be replaced. Since it was close to 105 K miles, I might as well change the timing belt. Total charges for both is 1250. And they also see that Cam Seals starting to leak oil. Since I was doing the timing belt, I might as well change them too. Additional cost to do them is 950. So the total for all three comes down to 2200. I bought the car at 90 K and checked it at Firestone and they said it was cool. They noticed an oil leak but said it was not anything major that needs to be taken care of right away. Do you think the dealer is taking me for a ride here? I just drove 500 miles and would things go this bad all of a sudden? Or should I make the replacements? Please advise.
I used to work for a dealer, they price by the book, even if they are already in there.... so if say you want to replace your alternator and your belts, they look up what labor is on the alternator, and then look up what labor on the belts is and add them together, even though youd have to pull the belts to change the alternator anyways. So basically you get charged for labor twice under this system. A different shop should be able to do this cheaper. If your water pump is out you should be overheating...... If youre doing the timing belt though, you probably want to look into those cam seals, if they leak on your timing belt they will weaken the belt and maybe make it break, which is really bad if you have an interferance engine (meaning if the pistons are up and the valves are down they will hit, usually breaking/bending the valves). The dealer should know if its an interferance engine or not, or you could do a quick internet search. If the belt has never been replaced i would definately recommend doing it though. Whatever you end up doing though, i would get a second opinion from a non dealer. At toyota they would charge more for lexus parts than toyota parts, even though it was the same part with a different part number... you may be in the same sort of boat with the audi.
Q:Last week I took my 1999 Plymouth Breeze to auto zone to get my engine light checked. It came back saying electrical and that my water pump is leaking? So what does that mean, do i have to replace the pump?
Last week I took my 1999 Plymouth Breeze to auto zone to get my engine light checked. It came back saying electrical and that my water pump is leaking? So what does that mean, do i have to replace the pump? Yes if the pump is leaking but how did they come up with a leaking water pump after scanning the computer for the check engine light ?? Something dosen't sound right here and you need to have someone else look at your vehicle !!!
Q:My water pump in my pontiac bonneville 99 went bad, and while I was in the navy, in aviation fuels, some of my job consisted of repairing pumps and valves, and rebiulding them all together, and this water pump from my car seems to have some of the same features of previos pumps i've worked on, usualy when i use to repair pumps, most of the time i just replaced the bearings, just wondering if its do-able, im looking for the cheapist way to fix this, the casing for the pump seems to be in very good condition, but havent got it out of my car yet, im short on tools right now for the moment... thanks in advance for any help...
Don't bother. Water pumps fail on this motor all the time and replacements are plentiful and cheaper than dirt. I won't even use rebuilt water pumps in my shop - we only install new ones because they are much more reliable and the cost difference is literally only a couple of bucks.

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