• HY Series Chemical Submerged Pump(API 610) System 1
  • HY Series Chemical Submerged Pump(API 610) System 2
  • HY Series Chemical Submerged Pump(API 610) System 3
HY Series Chemical Submerged Pump(API 610)

HY Series Chemical Submerged Pump(API 610)

Ref Price:
$1,000.00 - 50,000.00 / set get latest price
Loading Port:
Shanghai
Payment Terms:
TT or LC
Min Order Qty:
1 set
Supply Capability:
1000 set/month

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1. Description

HY series chemical submerged pump

Vertical centrifugal pump of single stage, end suction, with innovative design, energy-saving  and green products.

Conform to API610 standard


2. Technical Data

Capacity: 3~3400m3/h

Head: 5~100

Temperature: -20~200℃

Nozzles: DN25~500mm

Pressure: 2.5MPa


3. Application

Petrochemical, chemical, metallurgical, depot, sewage treatment industries

Conveying toxic and corrosive liquid which is clean or contains only very little suspended particles and crystallized substances.


4. Materials

For wetted parts in contact with medium, the common materials are as followings:

S.S.304, 316, 316L, TA2, MCU, DTM, Cr15Mo3, M-3 etc.


5. Pump Structure

HY Series Chemical Submerged Pump(API 610)


6. FAQ

1       Are CNBM pumps available in DIY stores?

Yes, currently, we’re available for DIY stores all over the world.

2       Where do I have to send pumps for service?

You must send them to the CNBM PUMP Service Point or, after contacting Customer Care, to the CNBM PUMP service center in China.

3       Are your pumps acid-proofed?

To choose the right pumps for chemical applications, we do need further details on hydraulic operations as well as on the type, concentration and temperature of the liquid.

4       Can your pumps mount Eff.1 motors

Currently, only on request though this will shortly be a CNBM standard.

5       Are your pumps protected against dry running?

No, unprotected centrifugal pumps are not generally designed for dry running. It is important to give us or your dealer as much information as possible about the system in which the pump is used. Inlet pressure, the type of liquid to be pumped, together with relative density, viscosity and temperature, for example, are required in order to allow CNBM to recommend the right pump with the right gaskets for a long operating lifetime.

Q:I have a quot;Rainbow Lifeguard Quiet One 6000external pump that I would like to use on a new chiller for my tank. The pump is rated at a little over 1500 gallons per hour. I'm debating between a couple of chillers, one that has a max flow rate of 1300 gph and another that has a max of 960.I know that you are only supposed to put any valves on the outflow side of the pump and lessening the flow to 1300 from 1500 doesn't seem like it would be that big of a problem, but I was curious it cutting it back to 960 would be hard on the pump in the long run. (I'm leaning towards the bigger chiller as although it may be overkill for my tank, it would let me have a little more water circulation.)
I wouldn't restrict it more than about 10% or so personally. I would ask you to think about this: The rated flow rate on a pump is under perfect operating conditions and is usually a mathmatical model that cannot really be acheived in the real world. Your pump probbaly is several gallons per hours behind that. If the tank is on a stand and the pump on the floor, the head pressure alone may slow it to 1300 or below. Additional tubing, especially hard angles will further reduce the flow. I would suggest you get a flow meter ( you can probably borrow one from a plumber for a day) and test the actual flow rate in your set up. Remember that the chiller will further reduce the flow itself. Odds are good you are closer to the needed 1300 than you think. You can also install a small diverter valve in the line. Basically splitting the output from the pump into two lines. One can carry about 1250 GPH and the other the rest which it just returns to the tank unchilled. Hope that helps MM
Q:could you explain the process by which water is pumped out of the ground for purposed such as drinking water or irrigation? Can you put it in terms a high school senior would understand?
(1) Identify your potential water source through various methods. (2) Drill a small exploratory hole to different depths, test water pressure and water quality. (3) Drill the complete borehole for production and retrieval of the groundwater. (4) Complete the physical well, will a sheath to allow in the water at the wanted levels, solid pluge to keep other levels out. (5) Insert a chemical and physical filter system (small screen membranes, activate charcoal and diatomaceous earth, etc.) (6) Put in the submersible pump and plug it in. (7) The pump is made up of a motor, an intake and a centrifugal pump. It's all sealed so no water can penetrate through. The water is suctioned into the centrifugal pump, which is an impeller type device. The water is then pushed out at a much higher pressure rate than it came in. This is how the pump works from the bottom instead of above ground. The water is sent to the pressure tank, sometimes referred to as a holding tank, and is kept at a constant pressure, so when you turn on your faucet or shower, the water comes out quickly. As you use the water, more water is pumped into the tank and as the pressure drops in the tank, it will automatically come on and pressurize again.
Q:I have a 1992 Pontiac Sunbird LE. It has 4 cyl. and it has 98,000+ miles on it. I took it in to get the oil changed and they inspected the car for a noise it was making. Found out the water pump was gone and the timing belt was worn. Need replacement on both. They quoted me 670.00 for the repair! STEEP! The part should cost about 20.00 max. How do I replace the water pump myself? And the timing belt? Do I need special tools? If I can't do it pretty easily myself, how much should I pay for the repair? I'm not made of money, but I need my car to run to get me to work everyday! I can't afford much, so anything around 200-300 is probably the most I can spend on the repair. What should I do?
The best thing you could do is maybe run to a library and they might have a Chiltons or Haynes repair manual you can make some copies of, check it out and decide for yourself, but a timing belt is a pretty involved process, not so much for a water pump.
Q:What I am trying to explain is that I took my vehicle to be serviced for a water pump. They installed it, but when I got my vehicle back, it started making this clicking noise. I took it back to be diagnosed and they came back to me saying that I need a new engine? (Before I took in my vehicle there was no clicking sound or problems, just the water pump.)Could this be the dealer trying to pull something for their mistake or what?
Dont know how it is possible to put a water pump on wrong...only goes on one way. if its not right it will leak to all hell. the only way this will hurt your engine is if it ran too hot. Did it overheat before you bought it in to get fixed? now, i dont know what kind of vehicle. some car's timing belts run off of the pump, and even then worse case, with an interference engine, you could bend some valves and your car wouldn't even run which would cost you to fix the head. where did they tell you the clicking sound was comming from? what year/make/model? could be plain bad luck.
Q:yesterday the electric went out for a while we had some big storms and now the water doesnt work, the pump is running but there is no water coming out, i need help on how to fix it, please. hurry
You might need a new foot valve. That keeps the water from draining back into the well. Depending on what type of pump you have, could be at the bottom of the well. To bleed the well, you need to remove the plug on the motor...it looks like a nut...about 3/4. You remove that and fill with water...when its full, turn the pump on and keep filling it till it gushes out...put the plug in (with new teflon tape) and it should work. Be careful not to touch the electrical, could get shocked. Its easy if the foot valve is good.
Q:How do I check my well water pumping system to see if there is a leak? I have terrible rusty water.
The radiator surely holds the water/coolant and the pump circulates the mixture via the engine. Upon returning to the radiator, the water is cooled from air passing via the fins of the radiator. The pumps job is to flow the mixture to verify that the nice and comfortable water to relax subsequently, the engine is then cooled.
Q:When the pump is connected in parallel, will the head and flow change?
2 pumps parallel, lift the same, pump head is not stacked?;Answer: the head can not be superimposed, that is, a lift and a pump, but the pumping speed (flow) is two times a taiwan.2 pumps in series, the same flow, pump head is not stacked?.Answer: the head can be superimposed, that is, the pump head is two times as much as a pump, but the pump speed is the same as that of a pump.A pump is a machine that transports liquids or pumps liquids. It will be the prime mover of the mechanical energy or other external energy transfer to the liquid, the liquid energy increase, mainly used to transport liquids including water, oil, alkali liquid, emulsion, suspension emulsion and liquid metal, but also transport liquid, gas mixtures and liquids containing suspended solids. Pump performance of technical parameters are flow, suction, lift, shaft power, water power, efficiency, etc.; according to the different principles of work can be divided into volume pumps, vane pumps and other types. Displacement pump is to use its studio volume changes to transfer energy; vane pump is to use the rotating blade and water interaction to transfer energy, there are centrifugal pumps, axial flow pumps and mixed flow pumps and other types.
Q:We came home one day to find our bathroom floor soaked, and we had no water at all.we later found out that it was the washing machine hose leaking.Our friend primed the pump but isent an expert..we fixed that problem with a new hose.A few weeks after, we started to notice that when you are in the shower, the water would shut off for a minute and come back on for a minute, so on so on, perfectly timed., and this got worse and worse, yesterday it would be on for like 20 secconds and off for 3 minutes... last night the water was working good but today we woke up with no water.The water taps in the house hardly do it at all. I also noticed that when we are running water the water pump goes crazy fast, i can hear it because its a mobile home.
If this is a well you are talking about, it may be a faulty pressure switch for a start from kicking on to often, and also it sounds as thou you don't have enough air in your tank not leaving enough air pressure so your pump kicks on too soon, and shuts off to soon. Check your pressure switch, and drain your tank completely, and see if that works. You will have some air at first, but it will stop in time. Your tank also needs to be in the right position as well keeping the right amount of air in it. Sounds like your pump motor still may be OK. One more thing, check to see if your check valve is shot.
Q:my water is frozen from pump to faucets,do i thaw from pump to faucet ,or faucet to pump?
Faucet to pump. It will relieve the pressure in the lines.
Q:I installed a circulating pump in the far bathroom, since the length to the water heater made for a long wait. It takes 25 seconds for the hot water to arrive, which means 25 seconds of hot water wasted, once the water is shut off.Is it cheaper to, selectively(2 settings on timer) run the pump, or just wait on the hot water? And without the consideration, that time equals money. I imagine the more people that use it, the more efficient it gets.
In commercial applications it means hot water is there waiting on you rather than the other way around. It saves on lost time and water. In home use I would install a timer so pump runs only when it is needed.Insulation on the pipes will also lower the load on the hot water heater. So you can save time and money.

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