• Household Self-priming JET-L&JET-B Pump System 1
  • Household Self-priming JET-L&JET-B Pump System 2
Household Self-priming JET-L&JET-B Pump

Household Self-priming JET-L&JET-B Pump

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Household Self-priming JET-L&JET-B  Pump

The JET-L&JET-B series pumps are with an automatic ejector system, find many uses in domestic applications, gardens and supply water from wells, and so on. These pumps suitable for civil and industrial uses to pump clean water and chemically non- agressived loquid. They are very reliable, safe and sample to use.

Pump body:Cast Iron

Impeller:brasss (Noryl, if requied)

Motor:Closed, Externally ventilated

Insulation class:B(Class F if required)

Protection class: IP44/IP55

Duty:Continuously rated

Mechanical seal:Φ12 ceramic steatite/graphite

Shaft:Carbon steel AISI 1045(Stainless steel AISI 420 if requied)

The normal power standard is 220v,50HZ,single phase

Three phase 220v/380v, 50HZ, 220V/460V, 60HZ

Single phase 230V, 240V, 127V,110V,115V/ 60HZ




Q: How can I do a pressure test on my 350's water pump. Some one suggested I do it to make sure it needs replacing.
What makes you think the water pump is bad? If it has a bad seal/bushing then it will be leaking coolant out of the bottom eyelet on the water pump itself and you would be losing coolant, if its overheating then that could be air trapped in the system and may just need to be flushed or ran for a little bit to circulate the system. I would check these options first but if you want to pressure test it just start the vehicle and squeeze the upper radiator hose to see if there is pressure on the hose. I hope this helps you my friend.
Q: I recently took my 2002 Pontiac Grand Prix in for an oil change, and was told that my water pump has burst. I knew something happened the previous night because all of a sudden my car was overheating and when I opened the hood there was water everywhere, Anyways I am currently a single mom, working temp jobs while I look for something permanent. I can not afford the 350.00 to get it fixed. If I continue to drive the car am I looking at serious damage, He showed me how to fill the water tank (or whatever) so that the car will not be empty, But he says I need to get it fixed soon
A water-pump has a weep-hole on the bottom of the input shaft that purposely leaks coolant when the sealed bearings have been damaged. You must get it repaired ASAP because when you run out of coolant you'll over-heat @ permanently ruin the engine. Call as many local private mechanics and repair shops for a less expensive price to have a new re-manufactured water-pump installed. *In the mean time call NAPA, Carquest, Advance Auto or Auto Zone and ask for a *closed system 4 pound radiator pressure cap and install it when the engine is stone cold. The reason for doing this is the cooling system will build 4 pounds of pressure instead of 16 pounds. It should leak less and slower with the 4 pound cap. You must refill the radiator when it's cold everyday and keep the plastic coolant recovery bottle 3/4 filled when it's cold eash day also. Most likely someone has not used Dex-Cool antifreeze exclusively in the cooling system. Mixing brands with different formulations of antifreeze will cause a black/brown muddy mess in the cooling system, wipe out a water-pump early.
Q: So I need to make a human powered water pump... Does anyone know how to make one? Any websites that could show me would be nice.MORE DETAILS:The pump is on the ground...it needs to pump water from a reservoir into another reservoir that is two meters high and two metres across from where the pump is... The pump needs to be handheld too. What should I use and any good plans on how to make it?
The simplest manual pump is the lever-arm pump. This is just an elongated cylindrical reservoir, a valve casing, and a pump chamber in a linear arrangement. A piston within the pump chamber is connected to a link, and a handle which is used to pump the water. You can make a simple one by converting an ordinary bicycle pump. Attach an input hose to the air inlet, and an output hose to the pressurized air output for the tire. A good way to develop plans on how to make it would be to visit your local sporting shop or auto parts shop and look over their pumps. .
Q: I have a submersible pump outdoors for the water to my house. Indoors is a holding tank and pressure gauge. It seems the pressure gauge keeps slowly declining down to 20. Then when the toilet is flushed, the gauge kicks on and climbs to 50. Then left alone for a while the gauge again declines to 20. Do I have a leak somewhere? If so , where? Does the ballast inside the holding tank need to be pressurized? If so, how where? I seem to remember years ago, my husband did something with a bicycle tire air pump. Makes sense? Thanks
If it's going down while nobody is using water then the check valve or foot valve is leaking through when the pump is off. It should pump it to a determined PSI then shut off. I suppose there could be a leak somewhere in the line, but I suspect the check valve. It's pretty common. ....the ballast does need to be pressurized but I doubt that's your problem. If that was bad you would have severe water hammer.
Q: I have a Goulds JPlus water pump inside my home. Last night, my wife and I heard it going on and off repeatedly when we went to bed. I have two shallow wells hooked up to it, so I switched wells even though I didn't believe the one I was on was dry (it was supplying H2O fine).Still no luck, so I turned it off at the breaker and shut off the valve between the tank and pressure switch. Today, the pump pressure gets to between 50 and 60, then goes off. It then loses pressure v ery quickly (approx 10-20 seconds) and goes back on when the pump switch hits the lower threshold. It sounds like the water is running back through the pump and out of the house when it goes off unless I turn the shut off valve I spoke of earlier. I changed the pressure switch and no difference.I can, however, turn it on and shower, flush, etc. I just then have to go down and turn the pump back off.Any help would be greatly appreciated!
Tommy is correct in saying that a proper air bubble in the top of the water storage tank is needed to provide a slowly declining pressure on the system as water is withdrawn. But if no water is being withdrawn inside the house then a check valve preventing a backflow through the pump discharge and allowing loss of water in the pipelines to the individual wells is leaking. It needs to be replaced.
Q: i have an 80' water well with an electric jet pump. is there an electric/manual water pump? i want to be able to have a hand pump attached to the electric pump, so i can still use water when the electricity goes out.
Maybe you have to drill a sperate well.
Q: First I need to take off the belt, remove power steering pump, remove water pump bolts (the bolts are various length), remove water pump pulley (from old pump), install pulley on new pump, install new pump (with gasket and bolts in the right holes), install power steering pump, install belt. Is this the correct order? Can somebody throw any tips at me (somebody who has done it on this vehicle). It's a 2001 WJ with a 4L.
Water Pump from okorder!
Q: Why should the water pump be opened in time after the pump is started?
There are many kinds of water pumps in power plants! Single-stage centrifugal pumps generally do not open in time, with the valve opening current increased! Multi stage centrifugal pump should be opened in time, otherwise it will lead to fever due to compression of liquid! With the valve opening, the current will increase! Single stage axial flow pump usually open the valve open, with the valve opening, current changes little or fall!
Q: In this area (picture) its leaking quite a bit of coolant underneath the car it is heavy dripping. Could it be the water pump? Car is over heating .It almost looks like its missing a screw or something where the coolant is dripping.
You're trouble could be one among two.....The gauge cluster could be bad and want exchanged out(the dealer does no longer restore them),or the gasoline sender(or flow/level sensor)which is attatched the the gasoline pump(does no longer include pump)could be inaccurate.The vendor or repair facility easily makes use of your old sender when changing the pump(which is a dumb thing to do once they have already got the tank out of the auto).And oh incidentally........A GMC is nothing more than a re-badged Chevrolet....And were considering that 1996 once they stopped making GMC seperate on the truck and bus plant and diverted all manufacturing to the Chevrolet crops....Equal construction line,distinctive title plates,do not let anybody fool you about GMC being reliable grade,no more durability...Just more money !
Q: i know a little bout cars always fixed my own since day one but this is the first car i have ever had/workd on with a internal water but thats driven off timeing chain my cars running hot and its holding prusser so i know its not radator or hoses but i need to know a way to check and make sure its the water pump befor i go tearing the engine apart
When the car is running feel the hoses to see if the bottom hose is warm or not. If it is a lot cooler than the top one the water pump may not be working. Also turn on the heater to see if there is heat in the car. If there is heat inside the car the water pump is working. If the car is running hot while driving around town but runs cooler while driving on the highway the cooling fan may not be working properly. That car has a two stage cooling fan that is known for going bad. The low speed setting is the speed that is normally used and the high speed setting is used when the air conditioning is on. With that in mind you can try turning on the air conditioning to see if the motor cools down when it is hot. You will also want to see if the fan is coming on at all before you go too far and check the fuses and relays before you assume the fan motor is bad because they are around $100.00. Also I should note that I assumed that you have already checked the fluid level and thermostat. If not you need to check that first. Hope i have been helpful.

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