Horizontal Pump with High Quality China Made
- Ref Price:
-
- Loading Port:
- Shanghai
- Payment Terms:
- TT OR LC
- Min Order Qty:
- 1 set
- Supply Capability:
- 1000 set/month
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Specification
Item:
Horizontal Pump with High Quality China Made
Material:
Stain Steel
Power:
Electric
Exporting countries:
Ameircan,Japan,Australian etc
Application:
Customer Required
Horizontal Pump with High Quality China Made
CHL, CHLK and CHLF (T) type pump are mainly used in industrial field:
A. Air-conditioning system
B. Cooling system
C. Industrial cleaning
D. Water treatment (Water purification)
E. Aquiculture
F. Fertilizing/metering system
G. Environmental application
H. Other special applications
Applicable medium
A. Thin and clean non-flammable and non-explosive liquid without solid granules and fibers.
B. Mineral water, soft water, pure water, edible vegetable oil and other light chemical mediums.
C. When the density or viscosity of to-be-conveyed liquid is larger than that of water, it is necessary to select a driving motor of high-power.
D. Whether a specific liquid is suitable for the pump depends on many factors, among which the most important ones are chlorine content, pH value, temperature, solvent and oil content.
Pump
A. Horizontal multistage non-self-priming centrifugal pump, attached with long shaft electric motor.
B. Compact structure renders small size of pump; Axial inlet and radial outlet.
Motor
A. TEFC motor 2-pole
B. Protection class: IP 55
C. Insulation class: F
D. Standard voltage,
50 Hz: 1*220-240V
3*220-240V/380-415V
60Hz: 1*220-240V
3*220-240V/380-415V
E. Single phase motor (max): 2.4kW
Operation condition
A. Liquid temperature:
Normal temperature: -15oC~+70oC; Hot water type: -15oC~+110oC
B. Ambient temperature: Up to +40oC
C. Max. Operation pressure: 10 bar
D. Max. Inlet pressure is limited by max. Operation pressure.
Model description
CHL4-30
CHL: Light horizontal multistage centrifugal pump (glow passage components stainless steel 304 or 316)
4: Rated flow (m3/hr)
30: Stage× 10
________
CHLK4-30
CHL: Light horizontal multistage centrifugal pump (glow passage components stainless steel 304 or 316)
K: Stainless steel air-conditioning pump
4: Rated flow (m3/hr)
30: Stage× 10
CHLF(T)4-30
CHLF(T): Light horizontal multistage centrifugal pump(F stands for "section type", T means "suction and discharge are made of cast iron"; Stainless steel, omitted)
Model | CHL2 | CHL4 | CHL8 | CHL16 | CHL8 | CHL16 |
Rated flow(m 3 /h) | 2 | 4 | 8 | 16 | 8 | 16 |
Flow range(m 3 /h) | 1~3.5 | 1.5~8 | 5~12 | 8~22 | 5~12 | 8~22 |
Max pressure(bar) | 5.5 | 4 | 5 | 4 | 5 | 4 |
Motor power(kw) | 0.37~0.75 | 0.37~0.75 | 0.75~2.2 | 2.2~3 | 0.75~2.2 | 2.2~3 |
Temperature range( o C) | -15~+110 | |||||
Max efficiency(%) | 46 | 59 | 64 | 70 | 64 | 70 |
Outlet | G1 | G1.25 | G2 | G2 | G1.5 | G1.5 |
Inlet | G1 | G1 | G2 | G2 | G1.25 | G1.25 |
- Q: HiThe well in my house is around 60 feet(20 meter). And the tank is 10 meter above the ground. My pump is Kirloskar Jet 1.5HP . It use to fill 500 Liter tank in 20 minutes. But now a days it is taking around 45 minutes to fill in. The pump is around 10years old. But it sounds good. Is it a problem with Pump or something else like Foot valve, Pipe, Pressure adjustment etc? . Do I need to change the pump? Which one is best suit for my well?. Submersible or Jet or something else?
- Jet pumps aren't particularly efficient, and at 10 years of age, it could be worn. However, the water table might be dropping, too (this is happening in a lot of places), and that alone could explain the longer time. Submersible pumps are much for efficient but more expensive to install.
- Q: Had my car in to the shop this morning, it's a 2000 Ford Escort ZX2. The water pump and radiator need to be replaced, and they said they can do it for $380. Is this a reasonable price? Also, if I don't get them fixed right away, am I risking a lot of permanent damage to the engine?
- Good chance you have a leaking head gasket. Try this, with the engine cold, remove the radiator cap, start the engine and let the car idle until it heats up. Look into the radiator, can you see large bubbles (like blowing slowly through a straw into a glass of water) or a foamy looking coolant in the radiator opening? You also need to see if there is oil in the radiator. Is the cooling system loosing coolant with no apparent external leaks? Does the car loose coolant , but never leave a puddle on the ground? A leaking head gasket is common on engine with aluminum heads and iron blocks, especially if the engine has been previously overheated. Some shops have a chemical test for combustion gasses in the radiator. It is also possible to use a system pressure test, where the entire system is pumped up to 15-20 PSI and then allowed to sit and see if the pressure drops. A quick drop in pressure indicates a leak. A pressure test can allow you to see where a leak originates, since the car is sitting and a leak will be very apparent.
- Q: I have built my own spray rig to water some stock and tanks and a garden. It is a 330 gallon tank and has a spout at the bottom that i am going to connect a multi purpose pump to. My question is what size pump would i need? I have been looking at Atwoods and Tractor Supply and have seen some 2.1 GPM and a 5 GPM pumps i just don't know which would best suit me. i am planning on having the tank on the trailor and running water hose to a sprinkler or two. I would like to know how man sprinklers are possible on this type of system and still keep good pressure. Thanks for any answers.
- It all depends on the size hose you will be using. Anything under a 1 inch will not work well. The pumps you listed are not going to do the job. I can pee more than 5 gals in a minute...lol You need to look into pool pumps and a 3/4hp might do. You will have to reduse from 1 1/2 in to the one inch. Just don't use under one inch. Good luck!
- Q: The flow of the pump will be reduced, the speed will change, the power of the motor will change?
- Water pump flow rate, speed will not change, the power of the motor will change in general.Different types of pumps have different flow power curves. Only the most common centrifugal pump is used as an example to illustrate the relationship between the flow rate and other pump parameters. The typical centrifugal pump flow power curve is shown in the P-qv curve (red line) shown below.Turn left and turn right |According to the flow power curve, it can be seen that with the increase of the flow rate, the power increases linearly, and the power decreases linearly with the decrease of flow rate.In fact, the pump shaft power P= P gQH/ (1000 K), including H: head, unit m, Q: flow unit m3/s, ETA: for the efficiency of the pump, general 0.7-0.85, P: shaft power, unit kW, K: matching coefficient, small power is 1.25, P: work is like a water medium density.Therefore, for a specified pump, the power is proportional to the flow theoretically. In fact, as the flow rate changes, the efficiency of the pump changes, so it can only be close to the positive proportion.Running water pump speed generally depends only on the pump, power (motor, diesel, etc.) speed, the flow of water generally can not affect its speed. But in the design of pumps, the flow is related to the speed, and other design parameters remain unchanged, the pump speed is high, the pump flow.
- Q: My water stopped working and my tank emptied. I replaced the pressure switch and the gauge. It still didn't work. The well is about 110'. I pulled the pump and replaced it (1/2 HP, 10 gpm, 2-wire). It still doesn't work. The old pump was 15 years old. The one before only lasted 7 years. The water has a lot of sediment. I have never done this before, but it seemed straightforward enough. The wires on the pump were not differentiated in any way (same color). Could I have put the wires together incorrectly? Could I have put the switch in wrong? It doesn't click on when the breaker is turned on. What else could be wrong? Could the breaker be bad? It wasn't kicked out.
- A two wire pump usually has a 120 volt motor. The neutral wire from the motor goes to the neutral wire at the disconnect switch. The other wire from the motor goes to one terminal screw of the pressure switch. The disconnect switch hot wire goes to the terminal screw right next to the first one. ( either the two terminals on the left or the two on the right. ) Sometimes people will switch the neutral wire as well. If the voltage is good, pressure switch contacts are clean - like no bugs having been smashed or caught up in between, then you might expect a break in the wire or the wire splice at the motor wire connection. If your old pump burned out you may have needed new wire also. Sometimes the wire will burn apart inside the insulation and make a bubble. If your old wire was in good shape, or you replaced it, you should have used a submersible splice to connect to the motor wires. Crimp on wire connectors should be crimped tight. Every now and then I find one that didn't get crimped on one side. Rubber tape followed by plastic tape over that splice is good. Some people like the plastic tubes with compression ends for a splice covering.
- Q: Here is the deal...*Van over heats*Blows Cold quot;heatquot;*Added coolant and water (nothing happened)*Started van, felt the hoses (no h2o flowing thru)I really think my water pump is out, but I am not sure. Does this sound like my water pump. If so, I plan on changing it myself, how do i find step by step instructions to do so.... I have never done it before, but I cant afford to take it to a mechanic! Thanks for your help!
- Will is right. No sense in throwing away money on a water pump if that isn't the problem, your next question here would start off with.....I changed the water pump and still have the same problem..... Take it to a shop you trust, let them tell you what is wrong with it, if you choose to fix it yourself, invest in a Haynes manual. They have the step by step instructions you are looking for. Sounds to me like it is your thermostat though, as a rule, when water pumps go out, they leak, the impellers (the blades that actually pump the water) RARELY give out before the bearings or seals do. IF you choose to start replacing parts without getting it to shop, start with the thermostat. You might be pleasantly surprised.....:)
- Q: my car ran hot a few times, its a 2006 chevy impala LS with about 50k miles.I do alot of driving but never had a problem until now. I took it to get an oil change and they said that I need a new water pump. I really dont know what that means but im afraid to drive my car until i get a new pump. i called around a few auto places and no one has the part. I called the chevy dealer and they said part and labor is $600. any suggestions of other places i can check for the part? can i still drive my car in the mean time? is it safe?are water pumps usually that expensive?
- 2006 Impala Water Pump
- Q: Fire hydrant and fire pump adapter difference
- Fire hydrant is out of water, the water pump is water supply to the pipe network
- Q: I have a leak coming from the water pump that flows down on the side of the AC compressor before landing on the ground. I cannot verify exactly where the leak is coming from on the pump, but I am sure it is the pump leaking because it also sounds bad like rattling. My question is do I have to remove any other components, such as the AC compressor to be able to remove the water pump. I would be great full for any suggestions.Regards,Steph
- 1. Disconnect the Ground Cable. 2. Drain the Coolant. 3. Remove Fan Shroud. 4. Remove Fan Visco Clutch. 5. Remove Radiator Hoses and Thermostat Housing. 6. Remove the Serpentine Belt, pay close attention to the path of the serpentine belt. Suggestion draw a diagram as to it's path, before removing. 7. Remove the Water Pump Pulley and Power Steering Pulley. 8. Remove the Tension Adjuster Mechanism. 9. Loosen the Power Steering Pump and move it to the right a little. 10. Remove the Water Pump, and you're done. Tools Needed .... A nice Stereo, plenty of Beer, and a couple of friends to keep you company. Good Luck !
- Q: Hi. This car is 66 chevy but the motor is a 1984 chevy 350 4bolt main stroked to 383. I think its an '84, might be an '85. I need to replace fan clutch and water pump.... the fan clutch is bad but manufacturer of the replacement parts says you must do water pump and fan clutch together. Is the pump a 66 chevy pump or a 350 small block pump? What about the fan clutch? Ok, and please help with motor mounts. do I use mounts specific for 66 model or specific to the motor?
- It's a Gen 1 small block V8. There are only two types of small block water pumps, long shaft and short shaft. Short shaft pumps were used on pre 1968 motors. The long pump measures 7 1/4 from the mounting surface to the outside of the clutch mounting flange, the short pump measures 5 5/8. The mounts should be for a small block in the same body type you are using it in. Back in the 50's there was a different mounting system that bolted to the front of the block, but everything since then is compatible. By the way, if the motor is in a 1966 body with the standard radiator, use the short water pump, iron or aluminum makes no difference except in cost.
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Horizontal Pump with High Quality China Made
- Ref Price:
-
- Loading Port:
- Shanghai
- Payment Terms:
- TT OR LC
- Min Order Qty:
- 1 set
- Supply Capability:
- 1000 set/month
OKorder Service Pledge
Quality Product, Order Online Tracking, Timely Delivery
OKorder Financial Service
Credit Rating, Credit Services, Credit Purchasing
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