High Quality Hot Dipped Galvanized Iron Wire For Chain Link Fence Panel

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Loading Port:: Tianjin

Payment Terms:: TT OR LC

Min Order Qty:: 5 m.t.

Supply Capability:: 100 m.t./month

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Silvery and soft binding wire

Galvanized metal wire

Material: low carbon steel

Surface treatment: galvanized

Gauge	SWG	BWG	Metric systems
8#	4.06	4.19	4.0
9#	3.66	3.76
10#	3.25	3.40	3.50
11#	2.95	3.05	3.00
12#	2.64	2.77	2.80
13#	2.34	2.41	2.50
14#	2.03	2.11
15#	1.83	1.83	1.80
16#	1.63	1.65	1.65
17#	1.42	1.47	1.40
18#	1.22	1.25	1.20
19#	1.02	1.07	1.00
20#	0.91	0.89	0.90
21#	0.81	0.813	0.80
22#	0.71	0.711	0.70

Q: Which wire is quot;hot, white or black?: Usually, most Fire Alarm wiring is color-coded red and black. FPL and other fire alarm cables are usually red/black for a 2 conductor cable. If a system is wired class 1, with THHN conductors in conduit, I have seen both black and white used as the positive lead. The electricians who wire it are likely to use whatever convention they are used to. If they deal with low voltage, they could use white for + and black for -. If they are high voltage electricians, they could do the opposite. The AC service, (120V or 240V) will be wired per National Electrical Code (NFPA 70), which is black = line, white = neutral.

Q: Me and a buddy took the 305 out of the car. I have a 350 to take its place, but was wondering what are the only wires i need to have a clean engine bay. the old engine has a million wires hooking up to everything. Some muscle cars only have spark plug wires, the starter wire and battery cable. What must i do to get mine like that? i dont care about emissions. what must i change or add to the new engine?: I have an '84 Monte SS and wanted the same thing. Here's what I have: the 2 wires that come from the harness and go to the starter (1 Positive, 1 S terminal), oil gauge wire, temp gauge wire, the alternator wires, the wire going to the distributor cap, and the tach gauge wire going to the distributor cap. That's pretty much it, as well as your battery cables, and spark plug wires. You really don't need to do or add anything as long as it runs and everything works that needs to work, it'll be fine. I'm going by memory, so if I forgot something I apologize, but that's the best of my recollection right now. If you have anymore questions you can email me.

Q: What are the advantages of electric tape over electric wire for a horse?Thank you!!: I would suggest you keep both electric tape and electric wire away from horses. Electric wire is made of a conductor, usually metal, usually copper or aluminum and covered with a conductor usually plastic such as PVC. It is made to carry electricity to the point of use. Electric tape is a type of insulating tape used by electricians to tape electrical connections. It is usually made of plastic, usually PVC. If you meant house instead of horse, then you would want electrical wire for carrying electricity, properly taped with electrical tape where needed. I have never heard of a conducting tape being used instead of wire for a house. The shape of a tape, with its flat cross section makes it less efficient for carrying electricity and requires much more insulation per conduction capacity.

Q: What exactly is 6 AWG stranded grounding wire usually used for?: In a nutshell: a) Verify that your service drop has the capacity for the additional load - verify this with your utility. b) If you are planning to install a 200A service in the barn, and you are planning to bury the wire, you will need to use 3-0 wire in a conduit. Use separate conductors. Check with your local electrical inspector, but I do not believe you will need to run a separate ground within the conduit for this application. The code may have changed, however. c) You will need to install a 200A fused safety-switch at the pole, and a new 200A panel in the barn. d) The barn panel will also have a 200A main disconnect breaker in it. e) You will need to install an additional ground-rod (or rods) at the barn panel. 1. DO NOT use old/used wire. 2. Consider running triplex wire overhead as it will be less expensive and equally effective. 3. Get the work inspected by an underwriter - your fire insurance will be voided if you do not. Lastly, it is not rocket science, but the codes and standards that apply are there for a reason - follow them carefully and fully and you will be fine.

Q: Okay, I just started tearing into my partially finished basement of the home I bought last week. Some of the electrical wiring is interesting to say the least.I have a junction box in the basement. One wire connects directly to the panel, another out to an outlet, and the third goes up and out to half the house. All of this is 14/2 except the quot;thirdthat runs up and out. This is wired with 14/3 but the third wire isn't connected to anything. Should I be concerned considering every outlet in the house works?: I'm going to contradict some other answers here... Your handyman is wrong about being able to easily add a grounded receptacle (another reason why 'handymen' should not be touching electrical work). Please hire a licensed electrician for electrical work. The metal jacket on old BX cable is NOT approved as a grounding means. This is known in the National Electrical Code as Type AC (armored cable) wire. The old BX version of this does not meet the specifications called for by current codes. Therefore its metal jacket cannot be used as a grounding means. Since you do not have a grounding means at the receptacle, the only Code-approved replacements are either a non-grounding receptacle (2-prongs), or a GFI receptacle that is marked as No Equipment Ground on the cover plate. Unfortunately, neither is likely to solve your particular problem. The surge protectors usually have to be grounded to perform their job and even installing the GFI will not give you one. I'm afraid that your only good answer is to have a licensed electrician run a new wire and install a new receptacle for you. UPDATE: Sorry Fred, I will not put my code book away. I make part of my living fixing the work of handymen who thought they knew what they were doing. This is the second time, recently, that I have seen you giving out bad electrical advice that you are obviously not qualified to give. Please stop before someone gets hurt from your advice. I wish I could give your update another thumbs down.

Q: how do you connect two copper wires together: With connectors!!! (Wait for an answer from someone who knows more!)

Q: I need to wire a single 120v outlet from the 240v volt wire I use on my compressor. Im installing a 120v electric automatic drain valve on my large shop air compressor. The compressor is wired up with SJ00W 10-AWG, 4-wire power cable (red,green,black white wires). and is rated at 240v @ 15-amp(compressor not wire). The drain valve uses a normal house hold current wiring config. (black,white and open copper)The 240v power supply is the only supply I have near by, (two of them actually) Or I would just wire the automatic valve off an outlet and call it a day. So How do I wire a 120v 3-wire set up from the 240v 4-wire supply? Thanks: Hud is correct. To accomplish this you would need to install a 30 amp subpanel with a 4 to 6 circuit configuration with a two pole breaker for feeding the compressor with # 10 wire and a one-pole 15 or 20 amp breaker with smaller wire (14 or 12 gauge respectively and the appropriate rated 120 volt outlet on that branch circuit). If you have regular 120 volt outlets somewhere nearby (as I think you are saying in your second to last sentence) I would go that route instead.

Q: is there a way to wire an exit sign to a plug for an outlet receptacle?: First off, Aurthur A's answer is composed of several NEC violations; he may be going to electrical hell, if he doesn't shape up. Second, you did not say if this is a required exit sign. If it is, then you will need a licensed electrical contractor to install it; as most jurisdictions will not allow work in anything but the owner's principle dwelling to be done by unlicensed personel.

Q: The wires I have are: 1 red starter cable, 1 tan wire, 1 ground wire to the engine block, 1 red wire to the battery, and 1 red wire that splits into the fuse and into the junction strip. Really need to know which wires go where on the solenoid.: Red starter wire goes on one of the big lugs, the other big lug gets the wire form the battery and the smaller red wire, the white wire should go on the small lug closest to the battery wire and the black should got to the other small lug. Once you you mount the solenoid on the engine you will be able to tell which side the starter wire and the battery wire are to be placed on the solenoid. The wire from the starter should be only long enough to reach the top lug or the bottom lug just because the way it has to be routed.