High Density Fiber Cement Board Prices for Building
- Ref Price:
-
$1.50 - 3.00
/ m²
- Loading Port:
- Shanghai
- Payment Terms:
- TT or LC
- Min Order Qty:
- 10000 m²
- Supply Capability:
- 300000 m²/month
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Fiber cement board, using high quality fiber and mineral substances as main content,was made with forming by advanced technique & technological process & through high temperature & high pressure maintenance & special treatment.
The raw materials of fiber cement board are cellulose fiber, silicate cement, quartz sand, water and some additives. It's a kind of high-tech product which formed through accurate dosing by computer program, hatschek craft and compressed by 14000tons hydraulic machine and autoclaved under high temperature and pressure.
Product Applications:
1.Indoor ceiling of industrial and resident building.
2.Partition of industrial and resident building.
3.The ceiling and partition of the bathroom and other wet condition building.
4.Indoor ceiling and partition as base board of the decoration for operation room,clean room of hospital or laboratory .
5.The fireproof board of the air passage.
6.Furniture or furniture's accessories.
Product Advantages:
1)excellent fire-proof
2)excellent damp-proof
3)Durability and long service life
4)high strength
5)stable dimensions
6)good heat and sound insulation
7)non-asbestos
8)mould resistant
9)no deformation
Main Product Features:
1) Elegance and excellent decoration
2) Easy installation and convenient maintenance
3) Best Surface processed with PVC Lamination
4) Heat insulation, thermal insulation, moisture proof, mould proof, sound absorption and noise reduction
5) Incombustibility / Fireproof
6) No dust / no pollution
7) Stucturally strong
8) Over 15 years no transmutation
Product Specifications:
FAQ:
1. Q:What is the different and most important point from other supplier?
A:We guarantee No asbestos if it has asbestos density will be more than 1.4g/cm3 what's more
3.2mm*3000*1220mm can be produced by us other suppliers can not do this size
2. Q:What are the advantages of your board?
A: outstanding light weight ,heat insulation, waterproof, fireproof, sound insulation, fast construction.
3. Q: Is the board fire resistant?
A: Yes, fire resistant 4 h , in the heat of 1000℃.actually it is noncombustible Class A1.
4. Q: Do you have any certificate to help us get government's approval?
A:China testing report and our laboratory' s testing by ourselves as your supporting document.
Because building standards are different in different countries, most of our customers buy the boards for testing and get approval by themselves.
5. Q: If we need samples for customer approval, will it be possible?
A: Of course we can.
6. Q:How to guarantee the quality?
A:Laboratory, integral testing process from raw materials to finished product until loading containers will be done by our factory.
Images:
- Q: Our contractor says green board is required for his corian shower because it is coved and waterproof. Is he right? The City says cement board is a new requirement because mold can get in. However, they will accept the manufacturers recommendation. We want to follow the building code.
- Absolutely, spend $30 more and use cement board. As a builder, I always line the studs with plastic, which overlaps the shower pan, then screw cement board over the plastic overlapping the shower pan (usually PVC product), then use red guard to seal seams and screw holes, then apply thinset mortar for tile, or mastic for corian, then seal all joints with grout sealer. It's your house and your money...stick to your instincts.
- Q: I am in the process of purchasing a townhome and I am looking to tear up the existing 12 ceramic tile that covers the entire main level... an area close to 600 sq. ft. to make way for laminate flooring. Thinset has been used to bond the tile to the cement backer board, and the backer board has been screwed to the wooden subfloor. There is also some sort of adhesive/mortar bonding the cement board to the wooden subfloor. What tools will I need. Are there any techniques that would make it easier? Would trying to remove the cement board damage the subfloor? If so, would it be acceptable to repair damage with some sort of floor leveling compound?
- big *** crow bar, thats how i did my kitchen, yep it sucks. you can get a nice one for this in the garden section its made for digging holes but has a nice flat section, for what I dont know but it teats a floor up,
- Q: why does concrete block crumble but driveways and sidewalk do not?I don't have a driveway so basically i want to build a flat portable surface, made out of cement that my jack-stand (for my car) can stand on so the jack-stand wont have to be put directly in the grass.I would need it for the time that i need to take the tires off. any suggestion?
- use some bricks to support the car and the use of your jack and stands on bricks get a refrigerator box to slide on while working on the car ... much cheaper and less mess than concrete makings ...
- Q: Older house, kitchen floor. There's 3/4 diagonal wood on floor joists after hardwood floor is removed. Can I put down 1/2 plywood/ osb and expect the ceramic tile and grout to last? 100% better to use cement board or that synthetic strand board?
- am i the only one who heard him say he wants a long lasting floor? ten years ago only the worst of hacks would use cement board on floors, i'm not even gonna talk about tiling on plywood. now everyone uses it on floors and they last about five years. what happened to mudding floors? lasts forever! much cheaper too. thought it was the rule! too many weekend warriors in the trades these days thanks to the home depot. what's next, perhaps a medical depot? mabye they'll start selling do it yourself surgery or cast in a can . sounds crazy but if it happened tomorrow you guys will be answering medical questions just as recklessly. stop reading labels as answers. don't any of you wanna see proof anymore? get real people. long lasting floors require tar paper, lathe, portland and sharp sand as a base. not cement board and certianly not glued sawdust or woodchips!
- Q: Is the cement board poisonous?
- But the skin often contact with cement, some people will produce irritating skin lesions or skin allergies.
- Q: I have a friend who owns a house who believes it was built in 1968. The basement is in immaculate condition-- completely dry. The walls are poured cement and you can see where the forms were taken off the wall after it was poured. My question -- did they pour walls back in 1968 or was cinder block the building material used? I think the house was renovated within the last 15 years. My friend and I are baffled. Thanks!
- Glue is not going to work for you... You should put a vapour barrier down first (under the bottom plate). This can be 'Sill gasket' (which is foam on a roll about 6 wide...) or tar paper or even just 6 mil plastic. This will prevent the bottom plate from 'drawing moisture' through the concrete. Usually a basement floor is only a few inches (at best) deep of concrete and then there's stone and dirt below that. Moisture will pass through concrete over time and if the conditions are right, mould will grow in a few years... in your bottom plate and lower studs. I always use tar paper, set the position of the bottom plate, drill with a concrete bit and then use a hammer-in type anchor... These anchors work like a pin driven down through a hollow shaft that expands. You drill right through the bottom plate and the floor, set one of these in the top of the board and whack it with a hammer to pound the pin into the hollow shaft that you stuck in the hole in the wood... works awesome, easier and cheaper than tapcons and really strong at one every 16 or so (between the vertical studs). Home Depot has them by the box in different sizes... Good Luck!
- Q: How do I remove dried cement from door & running board?
- Try good ole' WD40 it's know to take tar and alot of other road grime off cars.
- Q: I need to raise a bathroom floor about 3/4 inch. I have already poured a thin layer of self leveling concrete over what appeared to be some sort of concrete floor that had some uneven areas (60 year old house). I have read about how you are not supposed to put backer board on concrete because you can't secure it. My question is this: could you lay the backer board on top of the SLC, leave some small gaps between the boards, and then pour another layer of SLC on top of the backer board, thereby cementing it into place??
- I'm a tiler and a Hardwood installer. Backer board is specifically used for tile. The board is designed to created a strong and rigid bond to the subfloor. There's always movement in a structure and if you skip backerboard then your tile moves with the natural flexing of the house causing cracking in the tile and grout. Viny is flexible so all you need to do is to remove existing flooring and lay right on the subfloor.
- Q: Is there a easy method to apply hydraulic water stop cement to the area where the wall meets the floor without making a mess. Thank you very much
- No easy way that I know of. Work Fast and only mix a small batch at a time. I've used it and it sets very quickly. It heated up the can I mixed it in, to where I could not hold it without a pot holder glove. It works excellent, but you have to mix and spread quickly.
- Q: I want a smoother cut than I will get by scoring and breaking. Would I use an abrasive wheel in a circular saw or a diamond blade?
- Masonry blade on a circular saw would do it. Clamp a board on the cement board and run the saw along it. take it slow and use several passes. You should get a fairly smooth/straight line.
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High Density Fiber Cement Board Prices for Building
- Ref Price:
-
$1.50 - 3.00
/ m²
- Loading Port:
- Shanghai
- Payment Terms:
- TT or LC
- Min Order Qty:
- 10000 m²
- Supply Capability:
- 300000 m²/month
OKorder Service Pledge
OKorder Financial Service
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