• High  Density  Fiber Cement Board System 1
  • High  Density  Fiber Cement Board System 2
  • High  Density  Fiber Cement Board System 3
High  Density  Fiber Cement Board

High Density Fiber Cement Board

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1,Structure of (Cement Boards) Description

fiber cement board
light weight
water resistant
fire resistant
dimension stable

Fiber cement board

reinforced cement composite panel is a light weight cement product, been compounded of cement,silicate aggregate, polystyrene beads, reinforced mineral mesh fiber , the panel can boast superior fire ,thermal and acoustic properties, as well as being 30% stronger than alternative sheathing material, its resistance to moisture, it can applicable for use in most of construction or renovation project.


2,Main Features of the (Cement Boards)

Basic Uses:suited as an underlayment or backing surface for exterior wall and interior wall


Advanatages:

a-has 2 design for edges,bevel or pressed taper edge,which is convenient for joint.and does not break during transport

b- is approved as a substrate for direct applied finishes,tiles,stone,and thin brick in exterior application

c- us suitable for use in combustible area,which been test under ASTM E84 and 119

d- is highly moisture resistant,and will not rot,disintegrate or swell when expose to water

e-is light weight and high strength,however can be cut utilizing a standard utility knife and staightedge.


Limitation:

a-joints should be treated with alkali resistant fiber glass mesh tape

b-can not use in bearing structure

c-can not use as water tank

3,(Cement Boards) Images

High  Density  Fiber Cement Board

 

4,(Cement Boards) Specification

 

Fiber Cement Board 

5,FAQ of (Cement Boards


1.Hold by Wooden Pallet

2.Covered by PVC and Bonded with plastic belt

3.Fasten around the corners

4.Mounted in container to protect your purchasing

Q:Can you put tile directly on top of green board in a shower or do you have to also use cement board?
Green Board In Shower
Q:I came into many buckets of GAF TOPCOAT liquid which says it can be sprayed onto a roof or rolled on. I've only found one other idea for the walls in my wet room/shower area which is flexcement that is waterproof. Is it a good idea to try this or not. Really don't want to mess it up after putting much money into the walls as is. Here is the site that describes the product.
bad idea. you are writing about a roofing material and your cement board already is the right material to use. topcoat means just that. is the GAF product to be the finish of your bath? course not!
Q:i am going to be installing tile in my bathroom as a tub surround.i am wondering what backer board is needed. if i am using a membrane such as kerdi, is drywall a good enough backer or do i need cement board. if i need cement board, do i need the membrane? what products do you suggest for best installation. i will also be doing a walk in shower. are there any differences to be aware of compared to the tub surround shower style.
Tile doesn't flex. Drywall does. You need a hard surface to lay tile, or the grout joints will crack, water will get in, and your tile will promptly fall off. Real tile backer board (the kind that's made out of fiber re-enforced cement) is the only decent solution for installing tile over a wood frame. Hardibacker or any other modern garbage designed to make something seemingly easier, just turns into a nasty headache a year later. Also be sure to use real thin-set mortar, and real grout. That adhesive grout is just acrylic caulking with some sand added, tiles will fall off if they get wet.
Q:Older house, kitchen floor. There's 3/4 diagonal wood on floor joists after hardwood floor is removed. Can I put down 1/2 plywood/ osb and expect the ceramic tile and grout to last? 100% better to use cement board or that synthetic strand board?
am i the only one who heard him say he wants a long lasting floor? ten years ago only the worst of hacks would use cement board on floors, i'm not even gonna talk about tiling on plywood. now everyone uses it on floors and they last about five years. what happened to mudding floors? lasts forever! much cheaper too. thought it was the rule! too many weekend warriors in the trades these days thanks to the home depot. what's next, perhaps a medical depot? mabye they'll start selling do it yourself surgery or cast in a can . sounds crazy but if it happened tomorrow you guys will be answering medical questions just as recklessly. stop reading labels as answers. don't any of you wanna see proof anymore? get real people. long lasting floors require tar paper, lathe, portland and sharp sand as a base. not cement board and certianly not glued sawdust or woodchips!
Q:How to apply waterproof material on the cement board?
Waterproof material life is short, it is best to shop asphalt waterproofing membrane, fire baked seal seams
Q:I removed a fiberglass tub and enclosure since it was damaged beyond repair. I am now installing a steel tub and am going to install an enclosure with it as well to save time with tiling. Now with the studs exposed, I would think I would put up a vapor barrier on the studs, then the durock cement board and then attach the enclosure. I know you use cement board for tiling, but if you are putting up an enclosure do I still use cement board?
Cement board would be best as it is a very wet area. It would save you some mold issues for sure. But, Green board (sheetrock that is mold resistant) would be cheaper and also work...You may want to check on your local construction codes, if you pulled a permit, to be sure.
Q:This is a 1950s sink.
I assume that you mean the tiles are attached to the counter-top. The process is called demolition, and it can get dusty. Safety glasses are a must, a dust mask is recommended. First, starting at the back-splash, slice any caulk at the seams where the tile joins the wall with a sharp knife. Then, crack the tiles, enough to get a pry-bar under them. Peel, pry or knock the tiles off, exposing the plywood or cement board underneath. If you can find screws or nails attaching the back-splash to the wall, remove them. Then, look underneath the counter for screw or nails which attach the cabinet to the wall, remove them. At this point, you can try prying the whole structure away from the wall(s). Be careful about pry-bar placement. You should only pry where there is a stud on the inside of the wall, typically every 16. If it doesn't budge, look for any fasteners you missed. NB- Before you start, turn off the water, disconnect all the plumbing, cover the drain pipe (to keep debris out of it and sewer gas inside it. A drop-cloth would help in the cleanup. expect to spend some time patching the wall when you're done. Good Luck
Q:Can you hang outside garden wall hangings on fiber cement board siding and what is the best way to do it?
Yes okorder / Now if youre talking about regular concrete lap siding then I have used a sheetrock screw to hang trim before and it worked fine. Its a little hard to get started so dont push hard as you may damaged the siding but once they anchor they hold great.
Q:What to use to fill gap between green wall board and cement board, and between cement boards around bath tub?
modified thin set. Let dry for 12 hours.
Q:I'm putting in a new tub surround this weekend (gutting the bathroom wall and starting from scratch). After I put cement board on the studs and install the tub surround, there will be a space about foot high between the surround and the ceiling. The cement board will be exposed. Can I paint the cement board so it matches the colors of the bathroom? Do I need to buy special paint or something? Obviously, I've never done this sort of thing before and I appreciate any advice I can get.
You may want to run the concrete backer only about 3' up that will cover the real wet part of the tub surround then just use the green sheet rock on the top. Tape and float it put the surround up then texture and paint. Use semi gloss paint all over your restroom area with a added mildew inhibitor even if the paint is mildew resistant. Just tell them you don't care you want to add it anyway.

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