• High Density Fiber Cement Board System 1
  • High Density Fiber Cement Board System 2
  • High Density Fiber Cement Board System 3
  • High Density Fiber Cement Board System 4
High Density Fiber Cement Board

High Density Fiber Cement Board

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Product Description

 

   Standard Data of the Middle Density Firber Cement Board
Standard Size1220X2440mm/1200X2400mmMax Width1250mmMax Length4880mm
Thickness4-30mmDensity1.3-1.7g/cm3
Wet Expansion Rate≤0.23% Water Penetration≤25%
Forst Resistance No Layer & no cracks after 25 cycles under freezing and thawing
Incombustibility Incombustible Class A1 Radioactivity Decorative materials Class A
Flexural Strength Air dried Condition ≥18 Water Penetration Back side without water drop after 24 hours
Saturated Condition≥14

    Application

        (1)Cavity Wall for Interior Partition

           1.Wet area( restroom,kitchen and basement etc.)

               2.High sound insulation requirements area ( pc room,meeting room and hotel etc.)

          (2) Light Concrete Grouting Wall

          (3) Other Applications

               1. Ceiling board

               2. Perforated board

               3. Aluminum lining boards and insulation barriers for high-speed train

               4. Column Coverage

Production Scale and Equipment

       We introduced international advanced equipment and technologies. From raw materials preparation to board forming stacking and compressing, autoclaving and destacking are all controlled by strict and efficient production craft. The whole process is full automatic, high efficient and quality stable.


Product parameters

Item

Unit

Requirement

Medium density

High density

Density

g/cm3

1.2<D1.5

1.5<D2.0

Water absorption

%

30

25

Non-combustibility

GB 8624-2006, grade A

wet expansion

%

0.25

Beding strength

dry

MPA

Strength grade class III

20

Strength grade class IV

24

Saturation with water

12

14





Q:I can ollie on the grass fine.I can ollie high and easy.But when i do it on cement i ollie high but when i pop it my right foot that on the tail slips off.So why does it do that.Can you tell me what going wrong.Help me.My foot always comes off :(
it relatively is reason think ofyou've have been given so used to doing it on carpet. i does not recommend all and sundry studying tricks table certain on carpet. basically save working in the direction of it. you will could relearn it on cement.
Q:Wooden cement board and cement pressure plate is the same thing?
Wooden cement board is a non-toxic building material board that does not contain any volatile toxic substances such as asbestos and formaldehyde. Wood fiber cement board will not produce any harmful substances, excellent environmental performance. Wooden cement board contains 71% Portland cement, 19% mineralized wood fiber, 9% moisture and 1% binder. Wood fiber cement board in line with ASTME 136 non-flammable building materials standards, structural performance. Soaked in water without stratification, uniform set evenly. Wooden cement board can be cut, planing, grinding, drilling, threading, and can be fixed with nails and screws.
Q:the durock cement board is 1/2 inch and the drywall is 5/8 of an inch...So the shower wall is about an 1/8 of an inch recessed intothe wall. What can I do to fix the situation without redoing anymore walls. If I butt up the bullnose tile against the drywall about half of the tile's thickness sticks out...actually looks ok. I don't know if i should try to make a gradient from the drywall to the tile. There are also some gap between the two types of boards.....fill it with mortar?
Yes you float it and float it back a bit on the durock. Use the same thinset mortar that you use for the tile. Never use a mastic as some hackers may suggest.Mastic is a water soluble product and will fail in a wet area such as a shower. What I do if the area permits is to put a pc of painters tape on the edge of the dry wall. Leave room for cement board tape. Then float the ares and pull off the painters tape and run the SBN over the durock tape edge and onto the dry wall just a bit to cover all and make a clean transition. Any questions you can e mail me through my avatar and check my qualifications there. GL
Q:What are the fiberboard specifications? Fiber cement board thick
According to industry standards JC / T412.2--2006, fiber cement board is the industry's formal name, the domestic commonly used is 1200 * 2400mm * 4 - 30mm
Q:I'm my history day exhibit board, and I used rubber cement, but the rubber cement stained the background paper I am using. Now, I have to move things around and organize my exhibit, and the stains are showing! How can I get them to go away??? Help!
sorry there is no way at all.
Q:This is behind my vinyl siding and above my drop tile ceiling.
It would most likely be asbestos because nobody in there right mind would cover Hardi with vinyl.
Q:How to install the outer wall plywood
Peek is a fiber cement board, the board is decorated into wood grain, suitable for low-rise or multi-storey building exterior decoration. Its characteristics are waterproof, moisture-proof, anti-insect borer, non-combustible, smoke-free, non-toxic, easy installation, easy processing and cutting. There are two kinds of installation methods, one is installed in the external walls of high-strength galvanized steel keel (with keel);
Q:Advantages and Disadvantages of Foaming Cement Thermal Insulation Board
1, the physical foam: the blowing agent through the mechanical equipment prepared into a bubble, and then added to the foam by the cement-based cementitious materials, aggregates, admixtures, admixtures and water from the slurry, the mixing , Pouring molding, curing from the insulation board. 2, the chemical foam: the foam agent added by the cement-based cementitious materials, aggregates, admixtures, admixtures and water from the slurry, the mixing and mixing, pouring it in the mold through the chemical reaction Leaving the inside of the slurry to produce closed pores, the conservation, cutting insulation board.
Q:I'm laying slate tile over linoleum that was installed about 6 months ago....the linoleum is in very good condition, very smooth with no rips or lifting. I've done some research and figured I could put down cement board and then lay the tile on that. The floor under the linoleum is cement. Is there a special drill/special screw necessary to attach the cement board to the cement foundation?
Here's how a tile contractor would do it. First off you need to look how the tile floor will finish to the other floorings it will tie into. Ideally you want the same level when finished. It is common though to have a slight offset (up to 1/4 is acceptible). So remove whatever you need to be 1 lower then the other floor, before you install 1/2 hardibacker and the tile. What you listed above is a waste of time and money. You don't need plywood and hardibacker. You use one or the other. The industry has gotten away from tile directly on plywood, so don't consider that. Use the hardibacker. My guess is when you remove the vinyl and hardwood, you will be about 1 down. Screw the subfloor down then attach the hardibacker with 1 5/8 screws and lay the tile. If it is within the tolerance I noted above (1/4), you can buy a transition strip to apply at the change from tile to existing flooring. If your floor is up and down, do this, use a level as a straight edge on the floor, marking the high and low spots. The high spots need to be feathered out and the low spots need to be filled in. You should do this before you install the hardibacker. You can listen to a kid that worked with his dad or a listen to guesses from people that tiled a floor or two. You can even listen to a woman on here that claims to have been a remodel contractor, master electrician, building inspector and everything else she claims to have been, or you just take free advice from a guy that does tile floors. Your call.
Q:Bathroom wood panels on the aluminum plate opened, how do? Bathroom wood panels on the aluminum plate opened, how do?
I am the balcony of the ceiling construction process with you described the same, the same problem, and finally I was first in the aluminum-plastic plate drilling, and then set with self-tapping, which is the way, is the easiest way to repair The

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