Heavy Duty Centrifugal Gravel Sludge Mud Dredging Pump

Heavy Duty Centrifugal Gravel Sludge Mud Dredging Pump System 1

Heavy Duty Centrifugal Gravel Sludge Mud Dredging Pump

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Loading Port:: Shanghai

Payment Terms:: TT OR LC

Min Order Qty:: 1 unit

Supply Capability:: 100 unit/month

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Heavy Duty Centrifugal Gravel Sludge Mud Dredging Pump

Basic Info. of Heavy Duty Centrifugal Gravel Sludge Mud Dredging Pump

Model NO.:ASP1050

Pump Casing Combined:Horizontal Split Pumps

Impeller:Closed

Working Pressure:Low Pressure Pump

Position of Pump Shaft:Horizontal Pump

Impeller Number:Single-Stage Pump

Influent Type of Impeller:Single Suction Pump

Mounting Height:Suction Centrifugal

Outlet Diameter:100 ~ 1200 Mm

Capacity:180 ~ 28000m3/H

Head:25 ~ 95 M

Wet Part:High Chromealloy Material

Export Markets:Global

Description of Heavy Duty Centrifugal Gravel Sludge Mud Dredging Pump

ASP1050-type highly efficient wear-resistant series dredging pump is single stage cantilever centrifugal pump.It is characterized by its light weight,wear-resistance, good NPSH and marine utilization.

Application of Heavy Duty Centrifugal Gravel Sludge Mud Dredging Pump

The dredging pump is the main pumping equipment for river and pool harnessing.

Specifications of Heavy Duty Centrifugal Gravel Sludge Mud Dredging Pump

1.Outlet Diameter: DN=100 ~ 1200 mm

2.Capacity: Q=180 ~ 28000m3/h

3.Head: H=25 ~ 95 m

Structure of Heavy Duty Centrifugal Gravel Sludge Mud Dredging Pump

Components:pump head, special deceleration gear box or bracket, highly elastic coupling,and marine drive device monitoring system

Pump Head of Heavy Duty Centrifugal Gravel Sludge Mud Dredging Pump

a.Single volute structure---working pressure ≤0.8Mpa, the single volute pump head structure shall be applied to reduce weight.

b.Double volute structure---working pressure> 0.8 Mpa, the double volute pump head structure shall be applied to increase its reliability.

FAQ

Q: Are your pumps protected against dry running?

A: No, unprotected centrifugal pumps are not generally designed for dry running. It is important to give us or your dealer as much information as possible about the system in which the pump is used. Inlet pressure, the type of liquid to be pumped, together with relative density, viscosity and temperature, for example, are required in order to allow CNBM to recommend the right pump with the right gaskets for a long operating lifetime.

Q: How can I get trained on CNBM products?

A: Yes, we provide training courses in our factory (products, general and specific pump technology, hydraulics, and practical applications). Please consult your sales manager or get in touch with our headquarters for more information.

Q: Are your pumps cheaper than those of your competitors?

A: CNBM aims to give its customers the highest standards of quality and service and delivery times, all at a reasonable price.

Q: Do you have self-priming pumps?

A: Yes, our product portfolio also includes two ranges of self-priming pumps: self-priming electric pumps and self-priming side channel pumps.

Q: Is it really necessary to fit a bleed valve for the boxes?

A: It is always best to have a bleed valve as the gas produced by the fermenting sewage is potentially hazardous.

Heavy Duty Centrifugal Gravel Sludge Mud Dredging Pump

Q: what water pump is on a 1978 mercruiser 170hp 224cc 3.7 liter: Something in your description doesn't add up. Mercruiser did not have a motor branded as 170 hp in 1978, only 85-86. The 224s where a Mercury invention, all about the same for around 15 years. Do you you have a ser #, much more accurate identification.

Q: I just replaced my starter on my mustang and i when i took it out for a test drive i noticed the engine temperature rising. i drove for maybe 2 minutes max and when i parked the car it had a small amount of white smoke coming out of the engine so i let it cool down, and when it cooled down i checked the radiator, it had absolutely no anti-freeze, which is weird because i had just put a gallon of 50-50 anti-freeze maybe a week ago. So to test it i put 3 cups of water in the radiator turned her on and water was spilling from the water pump. So me and my dad have concluded we have to replace the water pump. I called up Autozone and they have a water pump replacement kit for $70. We don't have money too pay for the labor so can some1 please give me a step by step guide to replacing the water pump.: Drain the engine cooling system. Remove the air cleaner outlet pipe. Loosen water pump pulley bolts. Remove the accessory drive belt. Remove the water pump pulley. Remove the upper and lower radiator hose. Remove the heater hose. Remove the 12 attaching bolt and remove the water pump. Clean and inspect gasket mating surfaces. To install: Install the water pump. Use a new gasket and tighten the bolts to 89 inch lbs. (10 Nm). Install the heater hose. Install the upper and lower radiator hose. Install the water pump pulley. Install the accessory drive belt. Install water pump pulley bolts. Install the air cleaner outlet pipe. Fill the cooling system. Start the engine and check for coolant leaks.

Q: Pump suction and pressure side road why should vacuum table and pressure gauge, and what role they have?: The vacuum meter is used to measure the vacuum degree of the water pump before the water pump pumping, and to a certain degree of vacuum, the water can be sucked into the upward pressure position of the pump.A pressure gauge is used to indicate that the pumping is pressure in the pipe. The size of the pressure is related to the lift head, pipe diameter, atmospheric pressure and so on.

Q: How do I know the pump pressure?: Flow 18 cubic meters / hour, lift 100 meters, power 4 kilowatts.The pressure supplied by the pump is 1.0Mpa, which is 10 kg pressure.Is it a multistage pump?

Q: 95 mustang leaking water pump changed the pump and its running backward now: Belt on wrong

Q: I am planning to build a koi fish pond, and I know I need a water pump. All I know is that a water pump will circulates water. Does it do anything else? does it act like a filter? does it provide aeration or oxygen to the pond?: Get a pump which could drift, the two with an equipment which you are able to purchase or droop it with an inner tube or on some blocks or the pump will suck up debris from the backside or your lake. Use the biggest pump you have got sufficient funds and be constructive to have a GFI to plug it into. What you want to do isn't consumer-friendly, yet it quite is a possibility. Attaching a hose to the pump intake isn't consumer-friendly. purchase your pump at a plumbing furnish domicile and clarify what you want. they are able to have each and every thing you want and save you countless journeys back and forth to a large container save.

Q: here is the problem with my water pump control switch settings. the water is being used, runs dry and stays off for sometimes 3 minutes or so.i realize the springs control the cut in and cut out. do i need to make the spring more compressed to make the pump come on sooner? or do i need to make the spring looser to make the switch come on sooner?when i read/hear about adjusting the cut in. the answers seem vague because i do not know the perspecitve of the spring.does compressing the spring make the swith flip easier? or does compressing the spring make the switch harder to flip on?i installed a new 30/50 switch today. My air tank was at 50 or so PSI. but i dropped it to about 30. is the goeal to make the entire full system 50 pounds? because after my pump cycles i get about 70 psi!!!: The problem lies with the new 30/50 switch. With Your pressure tank empty of water, set the air pressure at 28psi. What is happening is when the water pressure drops below about 45 psi - the air pressure (50psi) on the bladder is forcing the water out rapidly. Then the pump has to work like cracy to overcome that bladder pressure! Easy Fix. Make sure the tank has no water in it.

Q: I have a 2006 Mitsubishi Raider that I'm pretty sure needs a new water pump. It is still under warranty for another 1000 miles, but the nearest dealer is over 200 miles away, and Mitsubishi says they won't reimburse for work done at a non-Mitsubishi Dealer. I'm trying to figure out if the cost of just paying someone to have it done here in town versus having towed 200 miles and then driving it back, plus the lost cost of missed work.By the way my Mitsubishi Roadside Assistance will tow it to the nearest dealer for free, but last time I did that it was barely worth the hassle of dealing with their very poor contract towers.: Have you asked the dealer to send you the part at least? Call Mitsubishi and ask it that would be possible, you never know. You could send in the old pump and possibly get compensation. Keep your bills. Discuss it with them. Your dealer should provide you with the area Mitsubishi representatives contact information. The prices for those can be expensive. Ask the dealer, service dept, for the labour, how many hrs. to change the pump. They should tell you. Also for the cost of the pump. Add the two together and you have your ans. Join CAA, or AAA, get a gold card, wait two days for the card's towing to take effect, then have it towed in on the card. Done all the time. Or if you have a relative with a Gold card they can have it towed in as long as they are with the car with their card when the tow truck comes.

Q: 94 f150,302. my pump is still leaking after doin the job twice. its a new pump, the first time i used the red silicone between pump and plate,both sides of gasket,and the housing on the block. leaked. then did it again with high tack gasket cement and still leaks. i cleaned all metal both times with brake clean before installing. same with thermostat housing,small leak. ive done 100s of pumps over the years,no problems, so please no rude remarks on mechanical ability. what could it be? it leaks up front of the motor above the crossmember where ya cant actually see the leak,its not a freeze plug. bolts are torqued. any ideas ? thanks: Die and tap the bolts and holes you might be getting false torque measurements. take a straight edge to your new pump, It could be fuggered right out of the box.

Q: Earlier today I was driving and my car shut off at a stop sign. I got it to start again and it shut off at the next stop sign, so after a few minutes I got it to start again and immediately pulled over as there was a small amount of smoke coming from under my hood. The temp gauge didn't say it was overheating, but I think it mightve been stuck, because that had to be what happened. After sitting there for a while it started and stayed that way for a while, I let the engine run. I drove it to the gas station and put some coolant directly in the radiator and the resevoir, and almost all of it leaked right out. I started to drive it home and had to pull over about 6 times to let it cool down because it kept overheating( temp gauge showed it this time). I think its the water pump that is leaking, but I know very little about cars, and was wondering if it could be anything else? Also, the heater wasn't working in the car today at all.: If it's leaking from the water pump, you may as well do the timing belt, idle and tension pulleys too since they have to come off to do the pump. That pump is visible, you should be able to see the coolant dripping from under the belt drive pulley.

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