Galvanized Iron Wires For Pvc Coated Wire

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Galvanized Wire/Galvanized Steel Wire/ Gavanized Iron Wire

Diatmeters:0.15mm-6mm

Application	Weaving, braiding, fencing, cable armoring, knitting, tie wire, for redrawn, for binding or forming etc.
Material	low carbon steel wire
Diameter	0.15mm~6.00mm
Tensile strength	350-500MPA, or higher
Zinc coating	Min 12g/m2, min 25g/m2, min 200g/m2,min 300g/m2,610g/m2
Surface treatment	Hot dipped or electro galvanized
Packing	On spools In small coils of 25-50kg/coil, 10kg/coil In rosette coil of 100-800kg/coil
Standard	ASTM 641, EN10257-1& EN10244-2

All can be produced according to customers’ requirements.

Q: And how can you not get them in hair straightener wires? Thanks!: Short in a wire is when two wires either don't connect cuz they're not long enough, OR when the wires start to smoke or burn or catch on fire.

Q: what is the yellow wire, what is the grey wire, and the black: Depends on each stereo and the wiring in your truck. Black is probably a ground. As for the yellow and the grey, one is probably a constant 12v, the other a keyed 12v. If the wiring is on your truck, get a voltmeter and test it. If the wiring is on your stereo, get the manual for it.

Q: Ceiling lights wire guage: It may depend on whether you are connecting to an existing circuit or you are running an entirely new one from your panel. If you are connecting to existing circuitry, then you need to check the breaker size. If it is a 15 amp circuit, then #14 is acceptable. If it is a 20 amp, then you must use at least #12. It is very unlikely that you are required to use #10. NEC does not require it for a 20 amp circuit. If you are running a new circuit, then you have your choice. Just make sure that the breaker sizes and wire sizes match as described above. Contrary to the advice of some, it is just fine to run a 15 amp / #14 circuit for lights. The key is to avoid overloading the circuit. If you are just going to add a couple of fixtures, then the 15 amp will be fine. If you are adding 20 recessed can fixtures, you might consider the 20 amp circuit option. If you think that you are going to add more to the new circuit later, consider that when you decide which size to use. The difference comes in working with the wire. #14 is much easier to bend and work with. I certainly would not attempt to use #10 unless you actually do have some weird local codes that require it.

Q: How can I investigate the resistance of wire and how it changes with the length of the wireCheers: get a multimeter. get long lengths of different gauge (diameter) copper lead wire. for each diameter, measure the resistance. cut 1ft off, measure the resistance, cut 1ft off, measure the resistance, cut 1ft off, etc etc. plot the resistance vs length for each gauge separately. show that the resistance is linear in the wire length in each case. now use the different diameter data to measure the resisitivity of copper. resisitivity rho = R*A/L R = resistance L = length A = cross-sectional area cheers

Q: Ok. so i wired my cd deck into my 92 buick, but everytime i start the car i have to manually turn on the cd deck. i also have to change the settings everytime! and once i turn off the car the setting will not save and the setting will be lost. Now everytime i turn my car on i have to manually put the settings again! this did not happen in my old car! and i think it might be the wiring! Because the last cd deck i had did save the settings! and would turn thge cd player on everytime i turned on my car!! and it would play the track back, right where i left off. please help! i did attach the yellow cable wire the red cable to the battery current.? is there a problem!: sparky is right. The yellow wire keeps the memory, and should have constant power even when the ignition is off. The red wire should have power only when the ignition is on. If the radio is left on when you turn the car off, it will come back on when you start the car, but only if the radio keeps constant power on the yellow wire. For your car: The constant power wire should be orange (connect to radio's yellow wire) The switched power wire should be yellow (connect to radio's red wire)

Q: In the picture there is a blue wire that is loose, also i just had the starter and wiring changed a month a go. Thanks.: on the big wire connector on the starter.look at it close and you will see the other part. strip the wire and but a new connector on it and put it back on the big terminal on the starter your problem of it not starting will be gone

Q: Are toast - previous owner did a bad amp install on them and there is basically no wire left to use for mine.Is it possible to run a radio power wire/remote wire from the fuse panel back to the radio? If so can i just shove the wire in the fuse holder then stick the fuse back in on top of it?((Fuse 8 is the mustangs radio fuse)): Never wire anything into your fuse box, that will defeat the purpose of having it. You will have to do what's called a hard wire. You will need to run all new wires, which is the safest way to do it, with all proper fusing. A constant +12, a switched +12 and a ground is all you need for the radio to work, and all new speaker wires. If you can find one in a junkyard, you might be able to find a new harness to repair the OEM one, and that would really help you out. Good luck!

Q: Will you please remove any of the wires? The edge of the body, which is made of wire or what? Is it copper or iron?: If you or a cigarette lighter, it is copper, because the melting point of copper at 1083 degrees, and generally lighter temperature at about 500 degrees, only the fire lighter to more than 1 thousand degrees, according to the flame to determine the temperature of different colors, red yellow blue to white to a minimum, more and more high.

Q: Just bought a new amp for my truck. The speaker outputs needs to be indiviually wired to the door speakers. Do you splice into the speaker wire or the trucks harness?: ideally you want to wire directly from the amp to the door speakers with new speaker wire but doing this properly requires removing some of the trimming and passing the new wires throughout the car. you can also take the easier route and pass the wires from your amp up under the steering wheel behind the center console and splice them into the existing wires going to the door speakers. as long as the wattage isn't very high the latter shouldn't be a problem. however, if it were up to me i would use new wires and pass them throughout the car, removing the trimmings, etc. this can be somewhat of a pain to do if you have never done it before though.

Q: But when I look closely (you can't see it in the picture unfortunately) there are some tiny wisps of the coiled copper wire that looks as if it could have been connected to the pulled wire. I'm not sure.How do I connect the wires to make the headsets work again?If you guys need more pictures, please tell me.Thanks in advance!: i've worked in fine wires like this and it is very difficult, espeically if you thin kkyou wnat to solder them. also, yoj're correct, those pics are horrible, you need better ones if you want real answers here.

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