G Type Screw Pump
- Loading Port:
- Shanghai
- Payment Terms:
- TT OR LC
- Min Order Qty:
- -
- Supply Capability:
- 350 set/month
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Product Introduction:
type screw pump for a single screw-type transport pumps, because of its excellent performance in recent years in the domestic application of rapid expansion. Its most important feature of the media flexibility and a smooth flow, pressure, pulse of small, self-absorption capacity, which is by any other species can not replace the pump can be realized liquid, gas, solid multiphase lose, applied to Chemical, pharmaceutical, electroplating, printing and dyeing, paper, electricity and other transportation industries lubrication or non-lubricating medium, corrosive media, containing a small amount of tiny solid particles of medium and low viscosity of the medium to high viscosity.
Range of Application:
To handle industrial and domestic wasterwater, and muddy water containing solid particles and short fibre;To handle mediums such as oil remains in oil tankers,oil water,oil residue and etc.;
To handle thick paste ,emulsified paste,unguent cosmetics and etc.;
To handle adhesive starch ,cooking oil ,honey, pulpy sugar, mashed fruit,cream and other leftovers;
To handle paste in the industries of brewage,construction ,mining ,printing ,papermaking and etc.
Type Designation:
Model | Speed r/min | Flow M3/h | Pressure Mpa | Motor KW | Head m | Inlet mm | Outlet mm | Allowable particulate size(mm) | Allowablefibre length(mm) |
G20‐1 | 960 | 0.8 | 0.6 | 0.75 | 60 | 25 | 25 | 1.5 | 25 |
G25‐1 | 960 | 2 | 0.6 | 1.5 | 60 | 32 | 25 | 2 | 30 |
G25‐2 | 960 | 2 | 1.2 | 2.2 | 120 | 32 | 25 | 2 | 30 |
G30‐1 | 960 | 5 | 0.6 | 2.2 | 60 | 50 | 40 | 2.5 | 35 |
G30‐2 | 960 | 5 | 1.2 | 3 | 120 | 50 | 40 | 2.5 | 35 |
G35‐1 | 960 | 8 | 0.6 | 3 | 60 | 65 | 50 | 3 | 40 |
G35‐2 | 960 | 8 | 1.2 | 4 | 120 | 65 | 50 | 3 | 40 |
G40‐1 | 960 | 12 | 0.6 | 4 | 60 | 80 | 65 | 3.8 | 45 |
G40‐2 | 960 | 12 | 1.2 | 5.5 | 120 | 80 | 65 | 3.8 | 45 |
G50‐1 | 960 | 20 | 0.6 | 5.5 | 60 | 100 | 80 | 5 | 50 |
G50‐2 | 960 | 20 | 1.2 | 7.5 | 120 | 100 | 80 | 5 | 50 |
G60‐1 | 960 | 30 | 0.6 | 11 | 60 | 125 | 100 | 6 | 60 |
G60‐2 | 960 | 30 | 1.2 | 15 | 120 | 125 | 100 | 6 | 60 |
G70‐1 | 720 | 45 | 0.6 | 11 | 60 | 150 | 125 | 8 | 70 |
G70‐2 | 720 | 45 | 1.2 | 18.5 | 120 | 150 | 125 | 8 | 70 |
G85‐1 | 720 | 65 | 0.6 | 15 | 60 | 150 | 150 | 10 | 80 |
G105‐1 | 500 | 100 | 0.6 | 22 | 60 | 200 | 200 | 15 | 110 |
G135‐1 | 400 | 150 | 0.6 | 37 | 60 | 250 | 250 | 20 | 150 |
Technology Parameters:
Flow:0-150m3/h;
Head:60-120m;
Power:0.75-37kw;
Rotary speed:500-960r/min;
Calibre:20-135mm;
Temperature:-15-200℃
- Q: belt removal mercury cruiser water pump?
- The pump bracket pivots that allows the belt to be removed. I've seen a few where the alternator belt is over the top of the water pump belt, so you have to remove it first. Actually a pretty easy job.
- Q: i installed a new pump don't know how to increase water pressure and to what what pressure it should be set
- This is very simple i would sugest the pressure to be set betwene 60 to 70 NO MORE THAN 70. 1. turn off power to pump (ether the circut breaker or a switch near the pressure switch) you dont want to weld the wrench to the switch. 2. remove the cover to the pressure switch its self (usly one #2 phillips screw) 3. now you will see 4 wires under some sloted screws nearest to the front of the switch, behint that is 1 or 2 bolts with a spring and a nut. 4. if you see 2 bolts you will want to turn the nut on the larger one to the right. you will want to tighten it about 1 to 2 full turns. (the same goes if there is only one bolt also) 5. now open the valve that is on the tank untill you here the switch click. then close the valve. 6. turn the power back on tio the pump and watch the pressure gauge on the tank. i DO NOT RECOMEND MORE THAN 70PSI. 7. if it goes over the pressure you want repete steps above exept loosen the nut in about 1/4 to 1/2 turns untill you reach the desired pressure 8. if it does not reach your desired pressure then you do the same thing exept tighten the nut in 1/4 to 1/2 turns untill you attain your desired pressure. 9. when the pressure is reached, replace cover so you dont risk rusting the contacts. if you need more help feel free to email me. and i will assist you in any way that i can.
- Q: Water dispenser in refrigerator has stopped working, how do I replace pump?
- Replacing parts in a refrigerator water dispenser is fairly straightforward. If you have to ASK how to do it, you need to ask someone to SHOW you how. As others have stated, there is no actual pump in the refrigerator. Water pressure from the supply line is more than sufficient.
- Q: Fully automatic self-priming pump
- It's difficult to answer your question only from the name you give! There are many automatic self suction pumps on the market. Generally, the pump outlet is equipped with a pressure switch. It starts automatically when the pressure is low, and stops after a certain pressure.If the pump outlet is the pool (water tank), then it is not a simple "automatic self-priming pump".It is an automatic water supply system. The whole system includes water pump, water tank, liquid level meter, electromagnetic starter (contactor), switch and so on
- Q: Because the water pressure is too small, this summer with self suction pump 750W, water is big, but every time that water is used for the first time out of the water is yellow like rust, probably after the release of 10 liters will become clear, then is not, but every one hour after the water time out is rusty hair yellow, so to waste a lot of water, but accidentally brought cooked food should not be good to the body.Now come in the water is through the pump, even without electricity, partition time for the first time water will be yellow, there is no master can teach me to disassemble, which can be cleaned?. Or something else. Thank you
- If your pump is iron, it must be impossible to avoid rust, and if you replace it with stainless steel, there will be no problem.There is also a way to add a filter or water purifier at the front of the pump to make it a little better.You can change the flow parts into stainless steel, but the price may not be cheap
- Q: Is this a symptom of a bigger problem or do I just need to replace the water pump?
- Your water pump may have a bad seal or gasket, would be best to replace water pump.
- Q: i have a significant stream of water running out of the coolant return side of the engine under the coolant pipe on a 1997 caravan i will lose a gallon and then it stops until the engine heats up and of course more comes out with expansion
- You will have to remove the AC compressor, all of the drive belts, alternator bracket, power steering pump and bracket, motor mount, timing cover, and the timing belt. This job calls for 4.3 hours and I was able to do one in about 3. If you really want to attempt this yourself, let me know and I will give you detailed step by step instructions to do it, right down to the timing marks and what size each bolt is. If you have never done a water pump/timing belt on any car before, I strongly recommend you don't attempt this repair yourself. The 3.0 really isn't a bad one to do, if you have the tools and some mechanical knowledge and ability.
- Q: I have just replaced the timing belts on my 94 Civic Si and my 00 Elantra GLS. Both were done at different shops, but i got the same hounding to replace the water pump when doing the belt. My Elantra has 66k and my Civic 85k and i know how important the timing belt is-especially with a negative clearance engine like the VTEC. previously, i've never been told to replace the waterpump with the timing belt til now. is this just a ruse to extort more money out of me, or is there some validity in what the guy behind the counter is saying??
- First, what determined the need for the timing belt? If it's due to be changed as part of the regular maintenance schedule, fine. And why do you need a fuel pump? If the car runs fine as it is, I would question that. The fuel pump is usually located in the fuel tank which can be a pain to replace, so I'm not sure that that total cost is comparatively unreasonable. BTW, when replacing the timing belt, it's usually recommended you replace the water pump at the same time, as it's located right there, and may prevent having to do the same labor again between belt replacements. You can also call various other shops in your area and get an estimate of what they would charge for the same service. Also, you can use the link provided to find a mechanic in your area who has good reviews recommendations from customers. Look for 'Find a Mechanic and enter your zip code for the info...(You may want to check out the whole site, for fun and car info)... Hope that helps! EDIT: Yes at 110k it should be due for the T-belt/water pump, now it's just shopping the deal!
- Q: i am not sure whether the water pump is bad or how much water should come out of exhaust.
- It may not be your water pump at all. It could be a blown head gasket or a cracked block. Do you drive it very much? If you do and it doesn't totally overheat, it isn't your water pump. Water pumps usually tend to make a lot of noise when they go bad. Depending on the temperature of the air where you live, I would say don't worry too much about white clouds coming out of your exhaust. You do notice I said white? Condensation in an exhaust pipe is normal. Check the little stuff first. Check your thermostat and radiator cap first. Those are inexpensive. Have your radiator checked at the local Mom and Pop radiator shop where they will also check your hoses and engine oil, to see if it looks like mud. That will tell you if you have a cracked block. Total overheating can be a blown head gasket which is expensive because of labor. The parts cost is minimal, it is just a total b i t c h because you have to get the whole top of the motor off. Have your freeze plugs checked too and if they are plastic, have them replaced with brass ones. It is a very old vehicle and you are going to be looking at some money to fix things. I hope I helped, although you didn't tell me the name of the vehicle. That would help a bit more and if you know it is the water pump, go get a new one!!!!!!! And check your fan belts too while you're at it. Good luck! :) I'm just a dumb lady...lol!
- Q: i already removed all bolts including the fan except for the last bolt on the water pump which the serpentine belt rides on the bolt backs into that so i am trying to find out how to get the bolt from the serpentine belt pulley off do i have to pull the serpentine pully off and if so how there is no bolt or allen holding the serpentine pully onim just trying to replace the water pump
- more than likely, the fan holds the pulley on. the pulley probably has corroded on to the pump. lightly tap on it with a hammer and should pop off. i have seen this alot on that style of pulley set up.
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G Type Screw Pump
- Loading Port:
- Shanghai
- Payment Terms:
- TT OR LC
- Min Order Qty:
- -
- Supply Capability:
- 350 set/month
OKorder Service Pledge
Quality Product, Order Online Tracking, Timely Delivery
OKorder Financial Service
Credit Rating, Credit Services, Credit Purchasing
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