G Type Screw Pump

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Loading Port:: Shanghai

Payment Terms:: TT OR LC

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Supply Capability:: 350 set/month

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Product Introduction:

type screw pump for a single screw-type transport pumps, because of its excellent performance in recent years in the domestic application of rapid expansion. Its most important feature of the media flexibility and a smooth flow, pressure, pulse of small, self-absorption capacity, which is by any other species can not replace the pump can be realized liquid, gas, solid multiphase lose, applied to Chemical, pharmaceutical, electroplating, printing and dyeing, paper, electricity and other transportation industries lubrication or non-lubricating medium, corrosive media, containing a small amount of tiny solid particles of medium and low viscosity of the medium to high viscosity.

Range of Application:

To handle industrial and domestic wasterwater, and muddy water containing solid particles and short fibre;To handle mediums such as oil remains in oil tankers,oil water,oil residue and etc.;

To handle thick paste ,emulsified paste,unguent cosmetics and etc.;

To handle adhesive starch ,cooking oil ,honey, pulpy sugar, mashed fruit,cream and other leftovers;

To handle paste in the industries of brewage,construction ,mining ,printing ,papermaking and etc.

Type Designation:

Model	Speed r/min	Flow M3/h	Pressure Mpa	Motor KW	Head m	Inlet mm	Outlet mm	Allowable particulate size(mm)	Allowablefibre length(mm)
G20‐1	960	0.8	0.6	0.75	60	25	25	1.5	25
G25‐1	960	2	0.6	1.5	60	32	25	2	30
G25‐2	960	2	1.2	2.2	120	32	25	2	30
G30‐1	960	5	0.6	2.2	60	50	40	2.5	35
G30‐2	960	5	1.2	3	120	50	40	2.5	35
G35‐1	960	8	0.6	3	60	65	50	3	40
G35‐2	960	8	1.2	4	120	65	50	3	40
G40‐1	960	12	0.6	4	60	80	65	3.8	45
G40‐2	960	12	1.2	5.5	120	80	65	3.8	45
G50‐1	960	20	0.6	5.5	60	100	80	5	50
G50‐2	960	20	1.2	7.5	120	100	80	5	50
G60‐1	960	30	0.6	11	60	125	100	6	60
G60‐2	960	30	1.2	15	120	125	100	6	60
G70‐1	720	45	0.6	11	60	150	125	8	70
G70‐2	720	45	1.2	18.5	120	150	125	8	70
G85‐1	720	65	0.6	15	60	150	150	10	80
G105‐1	500	100	0.6	22	60	200	200	15	110
G135‐1	400	150	0.6	37	60	250	250	20	150

Technology Parameters:

Flow：0-150m3/h；

Head：60-120m；

Power：0.75-37kw；

Rotary speed：500-960r/min；

Calibre：20-135mm；

Temperature：-15-200℃

Q: I recently bought a 1992 Honda Accord. It has high mileage but the records kept on it were impecable up to about the last 3 years. I have read that you need to replace the timing belt/water pump every 80k miles. However; I do not know when it was changed last. The Only record in the book on the subject was back at 90k miles. That was the first time they had the timing belt changed.So How do I know its time to change it again? The car now has 199k miles. I do not want to do unnecessary work before time, however; I also know that the affects it will have on the engine is great if its not done within the right TIME! Is there anyway to know it needs to be done? What kind of signs will the car give? And how much is it going to cost me when it has to be done? Thanks!: can't tell you the price, don't know where you live and where you get yoiur work done, call around.. belts need to be replaced when they're worn. look for cracks, frays and listen for squealing. (sometimes the water pump will squeal when it's bad...) otherwise, take the car in to someone you trust and have them look at it..ESTIMATE only..

Q: One repair shop on the phone says I will need new water pump, coolant flush and *850.00. On the other hand the dealer says I may need tow other drive belts (alternator +). Second dealer says I may need a water pump! I do not wish to get stuck with extra costs! any one with experience?: my question to you is .why are you going to a dealer for repairs on a 1998 car? there are plenty of good repair facilities out there you just have to ask around. and yes i would also replace the water pump at this time and have them use a timing belt kit .

Q: I have a submersible pump outdoors for the water to my house. Indoors is a holding tank and pressure gauge. It seems the pressure gauge keeps slowly declining down to 20. Then when the toilet is flushed, the gauge kicks on and climbs to 50. Then left alone for a while the gauge again declines to 20. Do I have a leak somewhere? If so , where? Does the ballast inside the holding tank need to be pressurized? If so, how where? I seem to remember years ago, my husband did something with a bicycle tire air pump. Makes sense? Thanks: If it's going down while nobody is using water then the check valve or foot valve is leaking through when the pump is off. It should pump it to a determined PSI then shut off. I suppose there could be a leak somewhere in the line, but I suspect the check valve. It's pretty common. ....the ballast does need to be pressurized but I doubt that's your problem. If that was bad you would have severe water hammer.

Q: i learned from wikipedia that the water pumps back to reactor where it is heated again and the cycle begins again. but then i saw this diagram: As you factor out it was once the double-punch of the earthquake and tsunami that caused the problems at Fukushima. The diesel mills have been enough to control the pumps to cool the reactor but then the tsunami got here and swamped them. Shutting down the reactor after an earthquake is typical defense system. The diesel turbines had been designed to be a backup in the occasion of an earthquake. They functioned quality even after the large quake. If the quake didn't occur, but instead the planet was once just hit with the aid of the tsunami, the other planets in unaffected areas of Japan would still be operating so this implies the engineers onsite might have jerryrigged anything in order that the pumps would be powered through the country wide vigor grid even though the diesel pumps were knocked out. No longer shutting the reactors down would have resulted in much more radiation being launched as a result of the damaged structures and containment units.

Q: water pump: Flow? Head? suction pressure? Type of pump if that matters to you? You'll get better suggestions if you provide as much information as is relevant.

Q: Power went out of my house and we just had it restored, though now the water is no longer running. We called the people who installed our pump and they told us they would need to dig up the well which is going to cost $1500. However i remember a time before where this happened and all we needed to was reset the switch. Do you think these ppl are trying to get me for my money? Does anyone know if there is a less expensive way?: Yes, they are trying to get your money. Check the breaker and see if it needs to be reset. If your pump is not submersible, you will need to prime it. Remove the gauge or one of the plugs and, with a funnel, fill it with water before you run it. This should be repeated until your pump is primed and filling up the tank. Make sure you have a faucet or two opened when you do this. No matter what, your well does not have to be dug up. It doesn't work like that. The power going out doesn't have anything to do with the water in the well or the piping going down to it. If all else fails, call a different well company to get some advice. Edit- If the pump is running ok, it should be primeable. It takes time to do this. If the pumps impeller was damaged by running dry, the pump may need a rebuild or replaced.

Q: my water pump went bad on my 1997 chevy cavalier, causing it to leak all the coolant it had in the system. i put water in it til i could get new water pump. changed out water pump. attempted getting air out of system. put more concentrated coolant in system than i did water. bad guessing on my part. ran car around block 5 times. it was fine. this morning on the way to work, it started overheating again. my thoughts : more air in system that's not coming out? thermostat REALLY went bad at same time as water pump???? overheating all because of a little too much coolant??? for some crazy reason, my system needs to be suddenly flushed? Your thoughts? one last thing, the car has always ran perfectly normal temp til water pump went bad.: Maybe the hoses aren't connected properly and water is leaking out? Have you had the bonnet up to look at the engine while it's running to check for leaks? If you can't sort it out, take it to a garage

Q: I know what is the role of the pressurized water pump adapter to the indoor fire pipe through the fire, then the fire truck to the indoor water supply when the water is pressurized by municipal pipelines, natural water, fire water or water itself injection pump adapter? The fire truck is equivalent to a pump from the water extraction and then injected into the water pump adapter? I haven't seen it with my own eyes, so ask, I hope someone will answerIs the fire engine to be used as a pump? For example, in the field of water from fire pool or when municipal water supply network, a head of extraction, the other end of the water pump adapter access outdoor indoor pressure? PS: I'm not referring to the high-pressure water pump adapter, but access.: The water injected into the water pump is the water on the fire engine, and the fire engine is supplied by the city fire hydrant.

Q: How do I check my well water pumping system to see if there is a leak? I have terrible rusty water.: The radiator surely holds the water/coolant and the pump circulates the mixture via the engine. Upon returning to the radiator, the water is cooled from air passing via the fins of the radiator. The pumps job is to flow the mixture to verify that the nice and comfortable water to relax subsequently, the engine is then cooled.

Q: I have an ls vtec set up on my 89 EF si, I want to install a better oil and water pump. I m thinking of going with GSR. BUt my question is are all years gsr oil, water pump the same? I think my ls Block is from 93-95 acura. which year gsr water oil pump can I use for my motor?. also I have a 2000 si head. do I have to change the timing belt? and Last question is should I use b16, gsr type r pumps? I heard gsr and type r have the same part #. Thanks: just change both to type r pumps that way there are no problems

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