• full welded forged steel ball valve PN 2.5 Mpa System 1
  • full welded forged steel ball valve PN 2.5 Mpa System 2
  • full welded forged steel ball valve PN 2.5 Mpa System 3
  • full welded forged steel ball valve PN 2.5 Mpa System 4
full welded forged steel ball valve PN 2.5 Mpa

full welded forged steel ball valve PN 2.5 Mpa

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Shanghai
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TT OR LC
Min Order Qty:
10 pc
Supply Capability:
100 pc/month

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Design Features of full welded forged steel ball valve

The body of ball valve is full welded,selects high quality forged material,and adopts the advanced forged forming technology to form two semi-spheres which are welded into a whole in the middle of the body.This welding technology differentiates the ball valve form others,and makes the valve more spherically,so the valve structure is more compacter,lighter and stronger.Besides,the middle direct welding realize highly accurate valve body manufacturing,makes fully and completely sealing between the seat and ball.The full welding instead of bolts completely avoids the outside leakage,so ball valve is the ideal product for under-ground,offshore working platform and under-sea equipments.

Adopting fixed plates or trunnion to support the ball

The top and bottom of the ball is supported by upper and lower fixed plates or stem and trunnion,and the ball is accurately placed in the center of the ball valve to achieve complete seals and precise movements.When plate adopted,the force exerted by the medium to the ball is distributed via the plate to the left and right bodies,so that the stem does not bear the blending moment from the medium,but only the torque from the ball rotation during the opening/closing of the valve.The low-friction PTFE Teflon composite bearings installed between the ball axis and fixed plate and between the stem and the trunnion can absorb ball moving action caused by the pressure of the medium.This structure brings stable actions and easy operations for the ball valves,and the required operation torque can be reduced,so smaller actuators can be used,and the cost is cut down.

ball valve seat is floating structure,means the seat can move along the medium direction,so that the seat can fit against the ball all the time.
Double piston effect structure seat of full welded forged steel ball valve
Seat design is special double pistons effect structure,it can ensure the seal wherever the medium flows into the ball valve.

Seat multistage seal strucute of full welded forged steel ball valve
As following graphic instruction,on seat bearing ring,set two soft sealing rings(A and B)and metal sealing spherical surface which can seal with the ball.Seat ring A is spring loaded,which seals the surface with the ball tightly to the surface to form an initial seat;When there is pressure generated from medium,the piston force is generated to make seal ring A elastically deformed and seal ring B fit the surface of the ball surface due to the piston effect caused by area difference,thus the second seal forms.When the medium pressure is rising.It will generate huge pressure to seal ring A and seal ring B,so the two seals have a greater elastic deformation,then metal seal ball surface compact with ball surface to form the third level of metal to metal seal.

Secondary seat seal device of full welded forged steel ball valve
As the above graphic instruction,the secondary seal device(seat grease injection valve)can be chosen according to the actual working condition,medium requirement,seal requirement,etc.Seat ring grease injection valve is a one-way valve,installed on the body,which can prevent the leakage and inject grease under the outside force.When secondary seal is required,there is a grease injecting channel and hole on the seat ring.The grease can form a seal between the seat and the ball,and then stop the leakage.

Standards Applied of full welded forged steel ball valve

Design   Standard

 API   6D customize 

Connection   Standard

 ASME   B 16.25-2007  ASME B 16.5  ASME B 31.4  ASME B   31.8  DIN  GBGB/T  JBJB/T JIS customize   

Test   Standard

 API   6D customize 

Face   to Face

 API   6D customize 

Pressure-teperature   rating

 ASME   B 16.34-2004 customize 

Marking

 MSS   SP-25 customize 

FAQ of full welded forged steel ball valve:

Q1:I can’t find the type of steel check valve which I need. what can I do?

The chart above only lists out some common composition of steel check valve parts.We may provide other different parts material composition according to the customer's request or the actual valve working condition.

 

Q2:Which certification do your products pass?

  Our products are in accordance with ISO 9001ISO 14001API 6AAPI 6DTS CEAPI607/6FA/BS6755.

 

Q3:How can I place an order?

  The only one thing you should do is to tell us the sepecification about type quantity and  mode of transportation, then we will send you quotation within 24 hours.



Q:I have a honda civic and i took it to get an oil change and they told me that i had an oil leak because my valve cover needed replacing. I did not let them do the work. I called my personal mechanic and he's out of commission for a little while, so he referred me to a friend of his. He said he cleaned all of the built up oil and replaced the valve cover. I noticed yesterday that my car looks like it is leaking oil really bad. I'm wondering, could this be from him washing the old oil that was leaking? My belts seem to be squeaking, like they do when it rains. Any ideas? could this just be excess water that he cleaned it out with?
if he replaced the valve pan gasket then it could be from where it was leaking at in the first place and he did not clean it off after he got done. if your oil don,t keep going low then you know he got it fixed.
Q:so here are the details. i've been using my trumpet for about 6-8 years now and 1 if not 2 valves get stuck on my trumpet. the problem is not the oil as i have over oiled them too and no go. its that when i try to put my valves back in their place and twist them they don't stay in place,move ,and making either my valves stuck or making my trumpet not do a sound. what should i do? repair shop or buy a new one? i hear the clicking sound when i put them back but still all that does is either make my valve more sticky
Trumpet valves have metal or plastic tabs that fit into grooves on the casing. They keep the valve in allignment. It sounds like the tabs on your horn could be broken. I suggest letting a repair shop do the work.
Q:im 28yrs old with two babies.in my heart two valves are very tight and leaking too,im going for a transplanting them in august.If there is anybody who got this problem solved please share.Thanks in advance.
Usually with an artificial valve, you'll need to be on a blood thinner for the rest of your life. If they use a natural valve, you usually won't need the blood thinner - perhaps you will for a little while, but not permanently. You can request a natural valve, but the surgeon doesn't know what size/shape of valve you need until he actually opens you up and sees what he's working with. He has an idea, based on the x-rays and MRIs you've had done, but he won't know for sure until he actually see it. So the surgeons are going to request that the Organ Procurement Department to thaw out two or three valves, depending on what they see in the tests. You can't just keep thawing out valaves, testing them, and then refreezing them if they aren't what you are looking for, so if they turn out to not be a good fit, he's going to turn to an artificial valve. So you could request a natural valve, but because of the shape of the gap that he needs to fill, you may have to have an artificial valve. Blood thinners scare people, and your friends will tell you horror stories about how their uncle's cousin's Nephew cut his arm and bled to death because he was on a blood thinner! That could happen, but it is very rare. What does happen is that you will have to go to your doctor once a month and have a blood test, and if your blood is too thin, you need to ease off on the blood thinning medication. Or if it is too thick, you need to take more. If you're blood is too thin, you'll bruise more easily - which might be embarrassing if the bruise can be seen. Blood thinners aren't as dangerous as they make them out to be, but they can be inconvenient!
Q:The water in my tub/shower stopped working. I did my research on the net to discover the cause and I also went to Home Depot explained the problem. The worker at home depot helped me get the right part I needed to replace the valve stem. I came home, took the faucet handle off and can see what I need to do next. Everything seems perfect and ready to go, except I can't remove the old valve stem. It seems like the old one should just slide out and the new one replaces it. How do I get the old one out without damaging any of the pipes or hurting myself.
Check back on your website to see if they have the procedure for removing/installing the new stem. These usually have to be turned to allow them to be removed. You should be able to purchase a tool to help you release it. Also, be aware the old stem could be hard to remove due to build-up and/or torn seals. After you get it our, try to remve and deposits in the valve and then apply a little lubricant to the new stem before you insert it. Be sure the lubricant is compatable with the seals.
Q:I'm installing an under-sink water filter. For the saddle valve, how do I drill the 1/8 hole through the iron pipe? What is the easy way to do this? Seems like I will be slipping around a bit. Any tips on this step?
My under sink filter hooked up the the cold water supply valve with compression nuts. There was no need to use a saddle valve. You could consider getting another type filter or follow mrrosema's instructions.
Q:Is there something else i can use to lubricate my trumpet valves besides valve oil....I don't have any at the moment but really need to lubricate the valves.
Honestly, vaseline will screw up your valves over long uses as the viscosity of the material will make your valves stick harder. Baby oil has minerals in it that will eventually build up on the valves and start corroding it. The best lubricant you can use is saliva because it will not create build up. It is cheap and effective but not recommendable. I remember my valves were stuck right before a show, but I spit on them and they worked fine. Its a short term solution, but go out and buy some valve oil.
Q:How are they different from other valves ?
Test valves are typically needle valves but I have seen some occasional usage of 1/4 to 1/2 inch globe valves and ball valves used as test valves for sampling. Pressure gauge installations may have test valves installed just below them. The valves are used to isolate the gauge from the system pressure, a second valve is used to vent the trapped pressure so the gauge could return to zero. The same vent valve could then be used to attach a calibrated pressure source to the pressure gauge so as to check (qualify) the gauge reading against the standard. This was done on select gauges where a quick in place qualification could be done without the need to physically remove the gauge from the gauge board. I have also seen test valve setups in systems using a three way valve in a setup to scavenge the sensing line with a clean fluid. This is done when dealing with a slurry which could block the sensing line suach as in a quick lime system. Clean water would flush the line before and after a reading so as to not trap material in the sensing line which could build up and block or cause a false reading. Test valve location also gives a handy mean to obtain a sample of the process fluid.
Q:I don't know exactly what it is called...the water valve from the wall to the toilet is leaking. All of the parts need to be replaced. They appear old and corroded. Can you please tell me what these parts are called? About how much they cost? And is this difficult to do? I found an excellent video on youtube on how to replace..but just want to ask anyway if it's difficult..it doesn't LOOK difficult.
Before you start taking things apart try this. Find out where the water is coming from. You may have to sit there for a while to watch for a drip. If it is coming from where the knob to shut it off is, there is a nut behind the knob. Try tightening it a little. Don't really lean on it. If the leak is from the line to the toilet do the same thing. Just tightening things may solve your problem at no cost. Best of luck.
Q:It's just a small 1 cylinder 1000 watt generator but thanks to contributors here, I verified the exhaust valve is pitted after I cleaned it all up with oven cleaner a toothbrush. My question is can I just replace the valve itself or do I need an entire new head? The seats still feel smooth.
You can replace just the valve. You should lap the valve to the seat though. That requires a lapping compound and some way to spin the valve. This is done before installing the spring. Lapping ensures that the valve is seated and won't leak. In the old days I have used comet cleanser and a small suction cup chucked in my drill. Worked fine. I know that is not the correct method but it worked and my mower ran for several years after that. Auto zone may have a valve lapping tool that they will loan out and you can buy some real lapping compound to do a better job. I always enjoyed getting the job done with what I had on hand. Good luck.
Q:I have a 1989 Jeep Cherokee with 218,700 miles on it and my engine has thick oily gunk on it, possibly from a leaky valve cover gasket, should I change the gasket? I have been told that this is normal and not to worry about, but from the amount of this gunk, I find it hard to believe this is normal. The top of the valve cover has a light covering of gunk, but on the sides and towards the bottom of the engine. it gets very thick and at some places you can't even make out whats suppose there. Does a leaky valve cover gasket mean that there is another problem going on?Can leaving the oily gunk on the engine cause any problems?Any info would be greatly appreciated.
Not to be mean but you can't work on what you can't see! Take the Jeep to a wand type car wash with a bag of quarters. Lift the hood and spend some time with high pressure soap and clean the entire engine and under-hood compartment. Don't bother covering anything. Leaking valve covers don't mean anything is wrong, it just makes a nasty mess. Remove valve cover/s and scrape old gasket material of the head/s and cover/s. The best valve covers in the world won't seal until the valve cover/s are completely flat. *This is an age old problem with stamped steel covers. If you want to get extra slick, chase down some aluminum cover/s. There stiffer and less apt to leak when you snug them back down. I'll let you in on a racers secret to make them seal. Buy a tube of Dow Corning or Permetex clear RTV silicone sealer. Scrape down the valve cover gasket surface till it's clean. Wipe the gasket surface down with CRC Brake Clean. Run a bead of the clear RTV on the valve cover and let it set-up for at least five minutes. Lay a Fel-Pro - Blue Stripe valve cover gasket on the valve cover. Seat it with your thumbs. Scrape-down the cylinder head where the gasket goes till it's perfectly clean. Clean the gasket seating surface on the cylinder head with C5RC Brake Clean. Lay a small bead of the RTV on the outside of the gasket which will meat the cylinder-head. Carefully set the cover on the head and gently alternately tighten them. It's OK to drive the vehicle as soon as you're done!

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