Full Welded Forged Steel Ball Valve DN 24 inch
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- 10 pc
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- 100 pc/month
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Design Features of full welded forged steel ball valve
The body of ball valve is full welded,selects high quality forged material,and adopts the advanced forged forming technology to form two semi-spheres which are welded into a whole in the middle of the body.This welding technology differentiates the ball valve form others,and makes the valve more spherically,so the valve structure is more compacter,lighter and stronger.Besides,the middle direct welding realize highly accurate valve body manufacturing,makes fully and completely sealing between the seat and ball.The full welding instead of bolts completely avoids the outside leakage,so ball valve is the ideal product for under-ground,offshore working platform and under-sea equipments.
Adopting fixed plates or trunnion to support the ball
The top and bottom of the ball is supported by upper and lower fixed plates or stem and trunnion,and the ball is accurately placed in the center of the ball valve to achieve complete seals and precise movements.When plate adopted,the force exerted by the medium to the ball is distributed via the plate to the left and right bodies,so that the stem does not bear the blending moment from the medium,but only the torque from the ball rotation during the opening/closing of the valve.The low-friction PTFE Teflon composite bearings installed between the ball axis and fixed plate and between the stem and the trunnion can absorb ball moving action caused by the pressure of the medium.This structure brings stable actions and easy operations for the ball valves,and the required operation torque can be reduced,so smaller actuators can be used,and the cost is cut down.
ball valve seat is floating structure,means the seat can move along the medium direction,so that the seat can fit against the ball all the time.
（Ⅰ）Double piston effect structure seat of full welded forged steel ball valve
Seat design is special double pistons effect structure,it can ensure the seal wherever the medium flows into the ball valve.
（Ⅱ）Seat multistage seal strucute of full welded forged steel ball valve
As following graphic instruction,on seat bearing ring,set two soft sealing rings(A and B)and metal sealing spherical surface which can seal with the ball.Seat ring A is spring loaded,which seals the surface with the ball tightly to the surface to form an initial seat;When there is pressure generated from medium,the piston force is generated to make seal ring A elastically deformed and seal ring B fit the surface of the ball surface due to the piston effect caused by area difference,thus the second seal forms.When the medium pressure is rising.It will generate huge pressure to seal ring A and seal ring B,so the two seals have a greater elastic deformation,then metal seal ball surface compact with ball surface to form the third level of metal to metal seal.
（Ⅲ）Secondary seat seal device of full welded forged steel ball valve
As the above graphic instruction,the secondary seal device(seat grease injection valve)can be chosen according to the actual working condition,medium requirement,seal requirement,etc.Seat ring grease injection valve is a one-way valve,installed on the body,which can prevent the leakage and inject grease under the outside force.When secondary seal is required,there is a grease injecting channel and hole on the seat ring.The grease can form a seal between the seat and the ball,and then stop the leakage.
Standards Applied of full welded forged steel ball valve：
Design Standard | API 6D customize |
Connection Standard | ASME B 16.25-2007 ASME B 16.5 ASME B 31.4 ASME B 31.8 DIN GB、GB/T JB、JB/T JIS customize |
Test Standard | API 6D customize |
Face to Face | API 6D customize |
Pressure-teperature rating | ASME B 16.34-2004 customize |
Marking | MSS SP-25 customize |
FAQ of full welded forged steel ball valve:
Q1:I can’t find the type of steel check valve which I need. what can I do?
The chart above only lists out some common composition of steel check valve parts.We may provide other different parts material composition according to the customer's request or the actual valve working condition.
Q2:Which certification do your products pass?
Our products are in accordance with ISO 9001、ISO 14001、API 6A、API 6D、TS CE、API607/6FA/BS6755.
Q3:How can I place an order?
The only one thing you should do is to tell us the sepecification about type 、quantity and mode of transportation, then we will send you quotation within 24 hours.
- Q: I was told Wed. that I need to have my aortic valve replaced. I was wondering if anyone could share their experience with this surgery good or bad. I am meeting with the surgeon on the 26th, and am very nervous. Any tips and or suggestions appreciated. I'm a 39 year old female.Thanks in advance
- This is a routine, well established procedure. The incidence of major complications are less than 4%. There are two kinds of artificial Heart Valves. One is mechanical, and the other is tissue valve. The mechanical valve requires the person to be on life long anti-coagulation therapy. This also requires periodic check on the persons pro thrombin time. Based on this, the anti-coaglation dose will be adjusted. The problem with anti-coagulation is that it may lead to bleeding complications. The tissue valve is made from the tissues of a bovine or porcine heart. The tissue is denatured to ensure that the valve is not rejected as a foreign tissue. (This is not a problem with mechanical valves.) Being made of tissue, these valves do not allow clots to form, which means that anti-coagulation after a short initial period is not required. This is a major advantage, especially for women, who may have some earlier bleeding problems. Then why are mechanical valves used at all? Being made from non-living denatured tissue, tissue valves cannot repair themselves. They also tend to get calcified in younger people with more calcium activity. They also have a shorter life than mechanical valves. Surgeons tend to favour mechanical valves for younger people (whose life expectancy is higher), and the tissue valve for the older, as such people may already have some bleeding problems, the valve's durability is not critical and the patient has lower calcium activity. These are general considerations. Only a surgeon armed with the full test results, and a knowledge of the patient history, who can advise the patient on what is the best option in each case. To reiterate, AVR (Aortic Valve Replacement, not my initials) is a routine procedure and recovery tends to be uneventful. Wish you all the best, and as uneventful a recovery as possible.
- Q: Since the valve drain is usually open, I am wondering if placing the cap on the drain has made my water heater dangerous.
- To hold water in the tank your plastic drain valve should usually be closed. It does not matter if the water is held in the tank by a valve or a cap. A metal cap would be better than a plastic. You could also drain the tank and replace the gasket in the valve, but that is a lot of work for little benefit. Had not though of that. The drain valve is the one at the bottom of the tank. If this is a pressure relief valve, yes it would be very dangerous to cap it. The pressure relief valve is located near the top of the tank.
- Q: Someone explained on chevy that valve guide clearance can limit lift.
- Valve guide clearance is distance between the valve stem and the valve stem guide. It is critical for proper engine operation.
- Q: We have an ejector in the basement for an in-law apartment. When the check valve kicks in, it can wake us up from a sound sleep. A very loud thunking. Any ideas?
- the check valve would be installed just outside of the crock vertically. The noise I doubt is from the check valve itself. I'd guess it is the pump shutting off and the pipe isn't fastened securely, so it bangs. Check to make sure that the run of pipe leaving the crock is fastened securely. if this is the case the only other option I oculd think of would be to re-position the check valve on a horizontal run of pipe as close to the crock as possible. Most check valves I have seen for ejectors are compression type, it will be messy but not to complicated. Keep a bucket handy, when you crack open that check valve you may need it. Flush the toilet until the pump kicks on a few times, this should clear out most of the nasty stuff. You may also need a short piece of 2 pipe and some couplings to make up for the space of the check valve. If you can hear the water flowing out when the pump kicks on and don't hear it draining back into the crock when it shuts off, the check valve is probably still good.
- Q: its a vauxhall movara van and i need help im trying to found out wether the valves are broken all the springs are upright and all level , so does this mean there ok ? or not ... thanks
- You need to have someone crank the engine and check to see if all of the rocker arms are moving.
- Q: I acquired an old valve guitar amp not long ago and i think it needs new valves trouble is the valves that are in it have no writing left on them and there is one valve completely missing how can i find out what type of valves to put in it. Could i use a multi meter to see what voltage etc is going into the valve socket and then find a valve with matching voltage. Thanks for your help Marc
- I never considered VOX a crunchy amp, has more of a jangle sound to me. Not sure what wattage you are looking for. In my opinion you don't need many watts in a class A tube amp. I heard an Orange Tiny Terror through a Marshall cabinet recently and it was awesome. I am considering that head with the Orange 2 x 12 cabinet. That head is only 15 watts but man is it loud...and crunchy.
- Q: Cylinder head valves.Can't really differentiate the difference between burnt and just carbon build up on valves. Are they the same?If I the valves have no cracks or holes, can I clean the carbon off of them and reuse them.If they don't leak when I re-leak test them, are they then good to use?Had very little compression in one cylinder.What cleaner is safe to use on the valves?I know I should replace all, but any money I can save right now, helps a lot.Also I seen a method of re-lapping the valves by using a tool (stick with a suction cup on end that sticks to valve surface) that you spin while valve is seated. It refinishes the seat and recreates the seal/re-laps. Appears to work and seal just fine. Anything really wrong with this method?
- if the head or heads are off then why not take them to a machine shop ! they will grind the valves that are still good and replace the ones that are burnt up and they will make sure they seat good ! if you have low compression just on 1 cylinder then it might be a compression ring stuck !
- Q: Exactly what is an EGR valve where is it located?
- It does not help warm the engine. It is shut off at idle, and opens as some others have said when cruising. If it opens at idle, it will cause the engine to run rough.
- Q: 1998 camaro3.8L v6sometimes when i start the car, it makes this loud ticking noise that goes with the RPMIm pretty sure its the valve, anyone know how to fix it, and how much it might cost?
- HI what you are hearing is not a valve but a lifter... MAYBE... Here's a couple of things that well make it tick. 1) an exhaust manifold gasket leak well sound like a ticking lifter. ( if the noise goes away after the car warms up it might be this gasket.) 2) a bent push rod well make a lifter tick ( as the tolerances would be off) 3) a bad lifter well make a ticking sound. If it is indeed a lifter then best leave it to a pro.. As the intake would have to come off to replace ALL the lifters (you can't buy just one). If its a push rod just the valve covers well have to come off.. to isolate the sound you can use a long piece of hose 3 ft. or so. hold one end to your ear and move the other around the motor compartment and see if you can tell if the sound is coming from inside the motor (lifter), inside the valve cover (push rod) or outside the motor exhaust gasket. good luck tim
- Q: Hi, this is a part 2 question to the one I posted last night. After turning the water shut off valve on my toilet back on, it didnt start to hammer till about 1 min pasted. When the hammering is happening I look in the toilet tank and see air bubbles coming out of the base of the fill valve and the water coming out of the fill tube isn't smooth and flowing its kinda step wise/ in intervals. I forgot to mention that I live in an apartment, does this affect anything?My official question is, is this an air bubble problem or is it a rubber gasket/ rubber seat problem?This is a new building only about 2 yrs old, so parts can't be that bad right?
- Air in lines. Leave valve on and push float down manually til it runs smooth.
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Full Welded Forged Steel Ball Valve DN 24 inch
- Ref Price:
-
- Loading Port:
- Shanghai
- Payment Terms:
- TT OR LC
- Min Order Qty:
- 10 pc
- Supply Capability:
- 100 pc/month
OKorder Service Pledge
OKorder Financial Service
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