• Full Welded Forged Steel Ball Valve DN 44 inch System 1
  • Full Welded Forged Steel Ball Valve DN 44 inch System 2
  • Full Welded Forged Steel Ball Valve DN 44 inch System 3
  • Full Welded Forged Steel Ball Valve DN 44 inch System 4
Full Welded Forged Steel Ball Valve DN 44 inch

Full Welded Forged Steel Ball Valve DN 44 inch

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Loading Port:
Shanghai
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TT OR LC
Min Order Qty:
10 pc
Supply Capability:
100 pc/month

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Design Features of full welded forged steel ball valve

The body of ball valve is full welded,selects high quality forged material,and adopts the advanced forged forming technology to form two semi-spheres which are welded into a whole in the middle of the body.This welding technology differentiates the ball valve form others,and makes the valve more spherically,so the valve structure is more compacter,lighter and stronger.Besides,the middle direct welding realize highly accurate valve body manufacturing,makes fully and completely sealing between the seat and ball.The full welding instead of bolts completely avoids the outside leakage,so ball valve is the ideal product for under-ground,offshore working platform and under-sea equipments.

Adopting fixed plates or trunnion to support the ball

The top and bottom of the ball is supported by upper and lower fixed plates or stem and trunnion,and the ball is accurately placed in the center of the ball valve to achieve complete seals and precise movements.When plate adopted,the force exerted by the medium to the ball is distributed via the plate to the left and right bodies,so that the stem does not bear the blending moment from the medium,but only the torque from the ball rotation during the opening/closing of the valve.The low-friction PTFE Teflon composite bearings installed between the ball axis and fixed plate and between the stem and the trunnion can absorb ball moving action caused by the pressure of the medium.This structure brings stable actions and easy operations for the ball valves,and the required operation torque can be reduced,so smaller actuators can be used,and the cost is cut down.

ball valve seat is floating structure,means the seat can move along the medium direction,so that the seat can fit against the ball all the time.
Double piston effect structure seat of full welded forged steel ball valve
Seat design is special double pistons effect structure,it can ensure the seal wherever the medium flows into the ball valve.

Seat multistage seal strucute of full welded forged steel ball valve
As following graphic instruction,on seat bearing ring,set two soft sealing rings(A and B)and metal sealing spherical surface which can seal with the ball.Seat ring A is spring loaded,which seals the surface with the ball tightly to the surface to form an initial seat;When there is pressure generated from medium,the piston force is generated to make seal ring A elastically deformed and seal ring B fit the surface of the ball surface due to the piston effect caused by area difference,thus the second seal forms.When the medium pressure is rising.It will generate huge pressure to seal ring A and seal ring B,so the two seals have a greater elastic deformation,then metal seal ball surface compact with ball surface to form the third level of metal to metal seal.

Secondary seat seal device of full welded forged steel ball valve
As the above graphic instruction,the secondary seal device(seat grease injection valve)can be chosen according to the actual working condition,medium requirement,seal requirement,etc.Seat ring grease injection valve is a one-way valve,installed on the body,which can prevent the leakage and inject grease under the outside force.When secondary seal is required,there is a grease injecting channel and hole on the seat ring.The grease can form a seal between the seat and the ball,and then stop the leakage.

Standards Applied of full welded forged steel ball valve

Design   Standard

 API   6D customize 

Connection   Standard

 ASME   B 16.25-2007  ASME B 16.5  ASME B 31.4  ASME B   31.8  DIN  GBGB/T  JBJB/T JIS customize   

Test   Standard

 API   6D customize 

Face   to Face

 API   6D customize 

Pressure-teperature   rating

 ASME   B 16.34-2004 customize 

Marking

 MSS   SP-25 customize 

FAQ of full welded forged steel ball valve:

Q1:I can’t find the type of steel check valve which I need. what can I do?

The chart above only lists out some common composition of steel check valve parts.We may provide other different parts material composition according to the customer's request or the actual valve working condition.

 

Q2:Which certification do your products pass?

  Our products are in accordance with ISO 9001ISO 14001API 6AAPI 6DTS CEAPI607/6FA/BS6755.

 

Q3:How can I place an order?

  The only one thing you should do is to tell us the sepecification about type quantity and  mode of transportation, then we will send you quotation within 24 hours.



Q:I know absolutely nothing about cars. My AC stopped working, I had a new air compressor, drier, expansion valve put on. It was also vacuumed out. Problem is it will not take a recharge, and there is no refrigerant in it at all. But it keeps reading high pressure, I don't know the readings I was told it is reading high, and will not take a recharge. Someone on yahoo answers suggested it might be the Schrader valve is this a problem that it can cause if it's bad that it will not let you recharge, and read a high pressure reading? Is there a Schrader valve for the low pressure valve amp; the high pressure valve or is there just one? I have a 96 Dodge Stratus ES. Thank you for any help or ideas.
2 valve 1 low 1 high the valve is cheap (looks like the same as one that goes in a bicycle innertube) but if a shop puts it the labor price for your area, here around 75.00 this dont make sense. to have high pressure there has to be something in the lines. and the valve would be open to give you a reading so unless its leaking its working. with a vac on it and 0 134a you should have a reading of -20(+or-) in of mercury on the low side (below 0) and 0 on the high side. If the high side valve was not depressed (opened) then you would have the can pressure reading (about 80psi depend on temp) only if you tried to fill from the high side. Ok try this find the line going to the firewall and inside the car, this is the low (return) line. dont use the one that goes to condenser at the front of the car (the radiator looking one). find the fill valve and thread on the fitting (may have a cap on it) tighten the fitting until it is tight then use a pair of pliers and turn 1/8-1/4 turn more then try to fill.
Q:how do you replace the pcv valve on a 1997 ford escort
pcv valve replacement ford 4.6 liter engine
Q:The tricuspid valve is closed: a. during the rapid filling of the ventriclesb. when the mitral valve is openc. during ejection of blood from the ventriclesHelp plzThank you!
c
Q:Hi, I was told by my gardener that I need new sprinkler valves and each of those run about $50-70. I looked up online and I found them for $20 or less. Also what is the basic labor cost for getting them installed? I got estimates that range from $300-1000. I am confused.
If it is $50-$70 installed, that is a good price. Where I work, we get $125, and that is about the going rate in the north east. If you want to do it yourself, do not use Toro valves, Toro is garbage. Hunter, Rainbird, Irritrol, and Weathermatic are all good valves. Dig a nice big hole where the valves are, longer on the downstream side of the sprinklers. Cut the line coming out of the valve, and unscrew it. If it is a tight fit, take the valve apart and unscrew it. If you have to take the new valve apart to put it on, There are only 3 parts inside, so don't worry about not being able to put it back together. From top to bottom, they are the spring, the rubber diaphram and the plastic ring. Then reconnect the lines coming out of the valve. Then connect the wires from the solenoid. 1 wire from each valve gets connected to the common wire. Look in your timer to see what color it is. Then the other wire gets connected to individual wires. Check the order of the wires to the valves. Write it down. This will help keep the valves in the same order they are in now. The prices you got 50-70 is what your gardener told you for each (i am assuming that he is installing them.) The 300-1000 just estimates for installation from different contractors. Unless you have 8 valves or more, the $1000 sound real high. You do not have to be a plumber to install the valves.
Q:Hey my sexy internet homies lt;3: I need help on artificial valves. I need to know the following things:How do the properties of the materials artifical heart valves are made from make them useful?Explain how the structure of the technology is related to the function that it needs to perform.Thanks!!
There are three of these things: the caged-ball which utilizes a metal cage to house a metal ball, tilting-disc valves, which have a single circular occluder controlled by a metal strut. They are made of a metal ring covered by a tissue, into which the suture threads are stitched, in order to keep the valve in place once implanted and there's bileaflet valves, which consist of two semicircular leaflets that rotate about struts attached to the valve housing which is the most recent type, eh? So heart valves are considered to be extremely durable. They're made of either pyrolytic carbon or titanium coated with pyrolytic carbon, and the sewing ring cuff is Teflon or polyester or dracon (probably dacron :P). They key to the materials chosen is durability because of the constant fluid flow. I see this as pure engineering, not medicine, specifically fluid mechanics: like if there are rare complications for example thrombus formation is a debilitating side effect of high shear stresses created by design of the valves. Ideal heart valve from an engineering view would produce minimal pressure drops of course have small regurgitation volumes because it's supposed to minimize turbulence and regulate the flow.
Q:I have a mountain bike that my brothers left me. the tire in the front is a normal s valve, the one in the back is a presta valve. now this was ok because it was fully pumped up, but then it popped on the road, so i got a new tire ad put it on and was all ready to pump it up but when i tried to pump it no air would go in. so i looked at it a while and i figured out the top unscrews, so i unscrewed it and put the pump back on and started pumping, but after a while i figured out that no air was going in the tire and now i'm very confused.
no longer understanding the make of motor vehicle i won't be able to be particular. A valve cover is a straightforward bolt on area. maximum engines won't require an outstanding form of different areas to be bumped off yet that may no longer consistently the case. purely get rid of the bolts/screws protecting the valve cover on and carry it off.
Q:If this prolapse considered heart disease. I was diagnosed years ago with it . My doctor at the time told me this is not heart disease and now I googled it and it said this is heart disease. Another person said this is valve disease ? I never asked my current doctor if it was or not. She checks me every 3 months because I have a heart murmur that you can have with this prolapse. whenever I have filled out questionaires about health history when they ask me if I have heart disease I always check no. If this considered heart disease or valve disease. I've never been to a cardiologist for it. Should a person have at least one evaluation from a cardiologist for this ?
Its a valve disease. It is a valve between the right atria and right ventricle within the heart muscle. Mitral valve prolapse simply is the fact that the valve does not completly close once the blood is pushed down from the atria where the deoxygenated blood is where the new oxygenated blood will be after it goes through the pulminart artery to collect oxygen from the lungs, then comes back to the ventricle. What then happens because of the prolapse is it has a little regurgitation, or spitting back up some fresh oxygenated blood back to the atria, and then continues to the left atria through the corniary vein. Hope that explains why its more of a valve disease than the heart disease. Heart disease has to deal with the heart muscle. And its chambers. Then you have corniary artery disease which focuses on the arteries and veins of the heart and of course the valves which includes your aorta, bicuspid (mitral valve), and your tricuspid.
Q:I have adjusted the valve clearance twice, I still have a noise on the #2 cylinder intake. What might be causing this?
valve adjustment was not done properly or too much cam wear. These M30 engines are difficult to valve adjust. I would take it to dealer - the adjustment must be done with engine cold.
Q:After shutting off the hot and cold water lines to my washer to remove the unit from my laundry room i noticed a small leak coming from the hot water valve as if the valve is not completely closing. The valves themselves should be roughly 10 years old and were extremely tight when attempting to close them, my question is how big of a job is this to replace the water valve? Is it as simple as turning off the main water to the house and replacing the valve or are these typically soldered on? Currently i just ran the hose for the hot water to the drain line to prevent water from leaking onto the floor so is this something that is a fairly non issue once i hook the lines back up to the washer and turn them back on? Or is this something i should get addressed asap?
Of course, the best solution is to replace the valve. Valves are either soldered on or attached to the pipe with compression fittings. If the pipe is copper and you see a silver band of metal between the pipe and the valve, that's probably solder. In this case, it would be best to let a plumber replace the valve. Otherwise, if your valve is attached with a compression fitting, you can get a new valve at your local home improvement store in the plumbing section. I recommend getting a 1/4 turn, steel ball valve. These are very simple and reliable valves. When you remove the old valve, be sure to also remove the compression washer and shoulder nut as well. You'll want to use the new ones that come with your valve. I also recommend using Teflon tape to wrap the threads of your new valve, at least two times in the direction of nut tightening. This will reduce the chance of leakage through the threads. Tighten the compression washer between the valve and the shoulder nut snugly. Make sure the valve is off. Turn the water on and check for leaks. If you see periodic drips, tighten the shoulder nut until the dripping stops. The other cheap and dirty alternative is to get a cap for your existing valve. These are also available in the plumbing section of your home improvement store. They run about $2-3, I believe, and are threaded onto the faucet where your hose attaches. That will keep your leaking valve from dripping all over the place.
Q:for a big block chevy,best way to adjust valves and rockers
w/ one hand spinning the pushrod and the other tightening the rocker arm nut, tighten the nut until you can not spin the pushrod freely, then tighten it three quarters of a turn more. do this to all of the rocker arms that do not have pressure against the valves, then spin the motor 180 degrees, or until the rest do not have pressure against them, and do the same thing.

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