• Full Welded Forged Steel Ball Valve DN 10 inch System 1
  • Full Welded Forged Steel Ball Valve DN 10 inch System 2
  • Full Welded Forged Steel Ball Valve DN 10 inch System 3
  • Full Welded Forged Steel Ball Valve DN 10 inch System 4
Full Welded Forged Steel Ball Valve DN 10 inch

Full Welded Forged Steel Ball Valve DN 10 inch

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Shanghai
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TT OR LC
Min Order Qty:
10 pc
Supply Capability:
100 pc/month

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Design Features of full welded forged steel ball valve

The body of ball valve is full welded,selects high quality forged material,and adopts the advanced forged forming technology to form two semi-spheres which are welded into a whole in the middle of the body.This welding technology differentiates the ball valve form others,and makes the valve more spherically,so the valve structure is more compacter,lighter and stronger.Besides,the middle direct welding realize highly accurate valve body manufacturing,makes fully and completely sealing between the seat and ball.The full welding instead of bolts completely avoids the outside leakage,so ball valve is the ideal product for under-ground,offshore working platform and under-sea equipments.

Adopting fixed plates or trunnion to support the ball

The top and bottom of the ball is supported by upper and lower fixed plates or stem and trunnion,and the ball is accurately placed in the center of the ball valve to achieve complete seals and precise movements.When plate adopted,the force exerted by the medium to the ball is distributed via the plate to the left and right bodies,so that the stem does not bear the blending moment from the medium,but only the torque from the ball rotation during the opening/closing of the valve.The low-friction PTFE Teflon composite bearings installed between the ball axis and fixed plate and between the stem and the trunnion can absorb ball moving action caused by the pressure of the medium.This structure brings stable actions and easy operations for the ball valves,and the required operation torque can be reduced,so smaller actuators can be used,and the cost is cut down.

ball valve seat is floating structure,means the seat can move along the medium direction,so that the seat can fit against the ball all the time.
Double piston effect structure seat of full welded forged steel ball valve
Seat design is special double pistons effect structure,it can ensure the seal wherever the medium flows into the ball valve.

Seat multistage seal strucute of full welded forged steel ball valve
As following graphic instruction,on seat bearing ring,set two soft sealing rings(A and B)and metal sealing spherical surface which can seal with the ball.Seat ring A is spring loaded,which seals the surface with the ball tightly to the surface to form an initial seat;When there is pressure generated from medium,the piston force is generated to make seal ring A elastically deformed and seal ring B fit the surface of the ball surface due to the piston effect caused by area difference,thus the second seal forms.When the medium pressure is rising.It will generate huge pressure to seal ring A and seal ring B,so the two seals have a greater elastic deformation,then metal seal ball surface compact with ball surface to form the third level of metal to metal seal.

Secondary seat seal device of full welded forged steel ball valve
As the above graphic instruction,the secondary seal device(seat grease injection valve)can be chosen according to the actual working condition,medium requirement,seal requirement,etc.Seat ring grease injection valve is a one-way valve,installed on the body,which can prevent the leakage and inject grease under the outside force.When secondary seal is required,there is a grease injecting channel and hole on the seat ring.The grease can form a seal between the seat and the ball,and then stop the leakage.

Standards Applied of full welded forged steel ball valve

Design   Standard

 API   6D customize 

Connection   Standard

 ASME   B 16.25-2007  ASME B 16.5  ASME B 31.4  ASME B   31.8  DIN  GBGB/T  JBJB/T JIS customize   

Test   Standard

 API   6D customize 

Face   to Face

 API   6D customize 

Pressure-teperature   rating

 ASME   B 16.34-2004 customize 

Marking

 MSS   SP-25 customize 

FAQ of full welded forged steel ball valve:

Q1:I can’t find the type of steel check valve which I need. what can I do?

The chart above only lists out some common composition of steel check valve parts.We may provide other different parts material composition according to the customer's request or the actual valve working condition.

 

Q2:Which certification do your products pass?

  Our products are in accordance with ISO 9001ISO 14001API 6AAPI 6DTS CEAPI607/6FA/BS6755.

 

Q3:How can I place an order?

  The only one thing you should do is to tell us the sepecification about type quantity and  mode of transportation, then we will send you quotation within 24 hours.



Q:does anyone know how much work it would take for a 1998 Mazda 626 (2.0L MFI DOHC) to change a bad intake valve?what work would be necessary and what kind of price are we talkin?
if you have did a compression check and know for a fact that the valve is bad the head has to be removed and then checked for leakage and cracks before you install it back on,those was bad to produce small cracks between the valve guides,if it checks ok then have the valve replaced,the cost should be about 600-700 on doing this one,that was a good engine those cars had in them,good luck.
Q:It has been known that although tissue valves have lower rates of thrombotic episodescompared with mechanical valves, they are difficult to procure, and their longevity has not yet been proven. Is this true as of 2007? Thanks for answering.
I was told that the type of replacement you get often relates to your life expectancy. This is because while medical teams say they will replace a replacement once you have had the surgery you will realize its not a choice to make if there is any other option. They remove the hart and fix it up and put it back in its no fun. If you have a chance of outlasting your tissue valve get a baked carbon valve and join carbonvalvers.
Q:I was getting something to burn and smoke up this empty 2 liter bottle for my friend's brother's science experiment. We didn't find any wood, so I took his trumpet valve oil, dripped some on a piece of wood that wouldn't burn and make it smoke up. Does burning valve oil have any negative side effects as opposed to say, regular oil? I shouldn't have been so lazy and just used vegetable oil or something haha....
Valve oil is basically just mineral oil and various other ingredients. You can buy pure oil, and it's also the main ingredient in baby oil and other medicines. Nothing wrong with burning it.
Q:Is there a more technically correct name for a valve that slowly opens, allowing increased pressure in a water line without blowing the end off?
I've always known them to be simply called motorized valves, but they aren't specifically made to prevent instantaneous pressure build up. They are usually installed as a convenience type of thing and in lieu of solenoid valve which WOULD be an almost immediate full pressure situation, but any valve other than a solenoid activated one will allow for slow build up of pressure. A motorized valve just lets you do it automatically and you don't have to be right at the valve location to open it. Al
Q:Okay I know lots of people wonder what is better presta or schrader...well I realy don't. My bike was made for presta and thats what I have a question about. So I just got my bike back after is being stored away for a few years, so yeah it was neglected. Question is now that I am doing a tuneup on it I found out the valve came out of the tube. I don't know if that is normal and if I am able to put it back in. It looks like there made for the valve not to come out but I just want to make sure before I go out and buy a new tube. Hope you can help. Thanks. -Sarge
Some okorder / but tubes are cheap and if your bike has been in storage for a few years, why take a chance. Better a new more reliable tube than having to fix a flat because your stem came out or your tube let go because of old age.
Q:Where is the fast idle valve located on the dx or ex model year 89-91??? I found the fast idle on my si model but its different on the base model for some reason.
base models have no fast idle valve. if the rpm are going up and down inspect the water level in the system and have it bled. there might be air in it. if you are messing with the timing or adjusting the idle you are doing something wrong. do not adjust the throttle cable to adjust the idle. it will throw off the tps sensor. use the idle screw. if adjusting idle at the idle screw or timing don't forget to jump the ECU or you will waste your time. btw you know that the IACV needs to be unplugged when adjusting the idle right? no punn intended just checking.
Q:Hello, I have a 1990 BMW 525i.I would like to paint the valve cover where the BMW was written between a set of lines.I think I require a heat resitant paint for doing this.Can anyone advice the brand which will be best suited for this job.Is it advisable to chrome plate the valve cover.?with regards,natarajBahrain
If you want just flat black paint, grill paint works great and gives it that crinkled effect. You can get it at most hardware stores.
Q:whaT ARE THE SYMPTON OF A BAD EGR Valve Position Sensor loss of power ?1998 toyota camry v6
Typically when those sensors start to go bad, the EGR valve doesn't modulate properly between open and closed. When that happens you usually notice a sort of fluttering in the power delivery, often when cruising at a set speed but sometimes also when accelerating as a result of the wrong amount of exhaust gas being recycled back into the engine. You sometimes will notice a loss of power when accelerating as well. If the EGR valve is opening more than necessary it will be allowing more exhaust gas back into the engine than is beneficial....and that will reduce the amount of power the engine produces. If the EGR valve is staying closed more than necessary, you might not notice as many driveability issues but you'll probably notice your average fuel mileage decreasing a little and/or a check-engine light being triggered and/or a failure of an emissions test (even if the check engine light hasn't tripped) if you live somewhere that emissions checks are required.
Q:My mother is 40 and is going in on the 21st for an aeortioc valve replacement. We are so stress on deciding between what type of valve she should have to get. please help. please include things like costs and medicines and anything else that will give us more info.
Your initial respondant hit on the basic question - 1. A biologic valve which will need a least one replacement again sometime in your mother's lifetime (though maybe at that time a better alternative might be available). 2. A mechanical valve which has an unlimited lifetime but requires life-long and very careful attendant focus on taking anti-coagulation medication, lest she be at risk for stroke or complications associated with bleeding. On the positive, it typically never requires replacement. At this point, both valves are likely to do the job. I have ancedotally seen some unfortunate complications associated with biologic valves - but it may have to do with biologic valves being used more frequently as most individuals needing this surgery are older. (and therefore select the biologic valve more frequently) Having an open heart surgery is about as big of an operation as you can have and is never undertaken lightly - let alone thinking of making a decision to have several of these surgeries over a time. It is a highly personal decision which does not have a right answer. If your mother is very good about taking medication and getting follow-up blood tests, then a mechanical valve might be right for her. If she has multiple other medical problems and is generally of ill health, she might want to consider the biologic valve. Generally speaking, for a woman in her 40's, generally healthy, and generally good about following regimen, then a mechancal valve is probably the right way to go for her. I hope this is helpful. Good luck to you and your Mother.
Q:I have a 1989 Jeep Cherokee with 218,700 miles on it and my engine has thick oily gunk on it, possibly from a leaky valve cover gasket, should I change the gasket? I have been told that this is normal and not to worry about, but from the amount of this gunk, I find it hard to believe this is normal. The top of the valve cover has a light covering of gunk, but on the sides and towards the bottom of the engine. it gets very thick and at some places you can't even make out whats suppose there. Does a leaky valve cover gasket mean that there is another problem going on?Can leaving the oily gunk on the engine cause any problems?Any info would be greatly appreciated.
take to car wash pressure blast as much gunk off. then replace the gasket, no it's not normal and yes it is the gasket( most likely- sight unseen) gaskets will go bad over time, it's man made.

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