• Fiber Cement Board Square Fiber Cement Board Square System 1
  • Fiber Cement Board Square Fiber Cement Board Square System 2
  • Fiber Cement Board Square Fiber Cement Board Square System 3
Fiber Cement Board Square Fiber Cement Board Square

Fiber Cement Board Square Fiber Cement Board Square

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Loading Port:
Shanghai
Payment Terms:
TT or LC
Min Order Qty:
6000 pc
Supply Capability:
10000 pc/month

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The tile is made by high-density fiberglass with compound decoration wool

on the surface and fiberglass wool on the back .The edges are painted. With the

characteristics of square in edges    and angle,it will be parallel to suspension system after installation.

 

Product Applications:

 

The titles are manufactured from high density dry felf resin bonded fiberglass wool, with fine texture painted glass tissue facer,plain tissue backer and sealed and painted edges.square edge titles will be paralled to suspension system after installation. 

 

Product Advantages:

 

1)Incombustibility/Non-flammability: Consmos Calcium silicate board is non-flammable and conforms to the national grade A standard (GB8624 Grade A) with excellent fire resistance property. In case of fire, the board will not burn and not give off toxic smoke. 

 

 

 


(2)Thermal/heat insulation: Owing to low heat conductivity, the product has good performances on keeping warm and heat insulation. 

 


(3)Water-proofing and moistureproof: The product is allowed to long-term exposure to moist environment but still very stable. The board still keeps intact after being soaked in water for one month, the phenomenon of swelling and out of shape will not happen. It has good adjusting mechanics like woods. Even it is used on wash house. 

 


(4)Endurance/durability: Consmos Calcium silicate board provides good insulation against bugs, fungus and corrosion. It can last for a long time and will not corrode. 

 


(5)Noise-proofing: Consmos Calcium silicate board provides good insulation against noise. 

 


(6)High-Strength and Light weight: The board is light weight, in this case, it can decrease weight of building greatly. At the same time, the material is high-stength and not easy to be damaged. 

 


(7)Easiness to installation: The construction process does not require complicated tools but just the ones used in regular wood construction. Our board can be fixed on light steel frame with self-attachable screws or a glue gun to nail the bolts into the wooden frame. 

 


(8)Environmental protection: Consmos Calcium silicate board is 100% free of asbestos fiber and will not cause any harm to human body or the environment.

 

Main Product Features:

 

Material: Torrefaction Compounded high density fiberglass wool

Face: Special painting laminated with decorative fiberglass tissue

Color: white, black and others to order

Fire-resistant: class A, non combustible

NRC: 0.9-1.0, excellent sound absorption

Thermal-resistant: >0.4 (m2k/w)

Humidity: Dimensionally stable with RH up to 95% at  40c, no sagging, wrapping, or delaminating

Moisture rete:<1% (JC/T670-2005)

Enviromental impact: Tiles and packing are fully recyclable

Product Specifications:

Fiberglass Felt Ceiling Attractive Acoustics

FAQ:

1)Q:Are you a factory or trading company?

A: We are a factory.

2)Q: I am interested in the products but I do not have experience

   A: Tell us your budget and target market and we will give you professional advice of exact kinds and quantity.

 

3)Q: How can I get some samples?

A: We are honored to offer you samples.

4)Q:How does your factory do regarding quality control?

A: Quality is priority, we always attach great importance to quality controlling from every worker to

the very end.

 

Images:

 

Q:Installing a shower in my basement, and am framing around a fiberglass 36 square shower base. should I put it flush against the frame and then attach cement board (it will overhang) or leave room to slide cement board between base and frame? Thanks!
I saw another answer that tells you to leave it above the flange of the base, but here is the problem with that and how I do it. If you leave it short of the base, there is now a gap however high the flange is with nothing to support the tile OR a place for the grout the sit because there is a void behind the tile. What I do is measure the thickness of the base ( usually 1/4) and then I rip a filler strip the same thickness as the flange. I nail it to the studs from the flange up to where you are going to stop the backer board or to the ceiling and then attach Hardibacker or Wonderboard to the furred out studs. Now the substrate can be installed 1/4 inch off the bottom of the base unit to avoid water wicking up and the tile has a full backing to within 1/4 of the base as well as the grout goes all the way in instead of sitting only BETWEEN the tiles as it would if you left it 1 1/2 up off the bottom sitting on the top of the flange. The only adjustment you will need to do is set the shower valve out whatever the thickness of the furring strips you add so it finishes on the tile surface to the manufacturers specs.
Q:What kind of mortar do you use to tape joints in cement backer board?
thin set. the same mortar you use to set the tiles with.
Q:I have a 5x20 room off my basement which sits under my front porch. All four walls of the room are cement block all the way up to the ceiling which is the cement slab from the porch above. There is a wood ceiling in the room that has gotten wet from leaks above. Is it safe to remove the wood joists and plywood in that room, fix the leaks and replace it? This doesn't support any weight from the slab above, does it? I assume that it was probably used as the bottom of the form when the slab was poured. Also, when I replace the ceiling, can I attach the ledger board using concrete sleeve anchors? Can these be fastened into the block wall? I'm not sure if they are hollow or have been filled with gravel or concrete. I plan on using the ledger board to fasten joist hanger to and frame back up my ceiling for insulation and wiring. The current ledger is attached with masonry nails. Any thoughts?
Your ceiling may very well be no more than the bottom forms for the slab, but you really need to make sure. Attempting to seal the concrete slab from the underside isn't advisable. Concrete draws moisture, so you will always have a seepage problem after you're finished. I'd suggest sealing the slab on the surface and make sure it quit weeping before proceeding with the remainder of your project. Not all concrete blocks are filled. To secure your ledger board I'd suggest using a lag bolt with a lead spread type toggle. Drill into the block and insert to lead, which will hold the lag bolt. Hope this has been some help. Good Luck
Q:I have a small 4X2 area in which I need to re-tile. The area now is outdoors and is set inside of a concrete slab. Who ever installed the tiles before installed them like paver's where they backfilled the small area with sand (about 3). My question is can I use durock or another cement board to get a solid surface for tiling or do I need to refill the area with concrete? I don't know too much about concrete work which is why I am looking to use the cement boards.Thanks
this area needs to be filled with easy to use Sak-crete and then float base for tile and them you can RE-tile and it should hold up for years ..... the hardware giants offer classes in tile setting and you can learn the correct
Q:I am laying a new tile floor over plywood subfloor. I have Durock cement backerboard. The area I'm covering is only 4'3 x 6'8. I don't really want to put the money out for power saws ($60+) so I am planning to use a hand saw. What kind is most appropriate? Can I use a small utility knife for the smaller details?
Take your self a utility knife and keep scoring now keep in mind that you don't have to do it in one piece you can do it in a couple of pieces.and just fit it like a puzzle.don't forget shop safety by wearing safety glasses
Q:Composite foam cement board fire board grade and fire resistance limit?
ire rating B: B-class refractory grade is a flame retardant material, the general high-end public places are used in the use of this material decoration.
Q:What are the densities of tiles and cement
In the production and processing process, wood in the wood board of wood components through non-toxic chemical mineralization after the fire produced. These treated mineralized wood components combine with the Portland cement base to increase its strength and toughness, resulting in significant structural features and excellent quality of Portland cement: fire, moisture, Corrosion, pest control, and durability. The overall structure of the wood fiber board makes it resistant to impact and easy to process. Due to the close structure, high density, wood fiber reinforced concrete board sound insulation is excellent, and affordable,
Q:I have a small bathroom approximately 4'x8' and I laid down and screwed in cement backer board. However, in my attention to detail I neglected to put down thin-set mortar underneath prior to screwing and taping down the board. I tried to pull the cement board up but I cant get under the tape that I mortared down to get to the screws. Am I in trouble here or can I go ahead and skip that and continue to tile? Please help...
skip it continue on
Q:How to solve the old concrete and the new pouring between the concrete does not leak it?
If the walls can be opened on both sides of the wall, it is recommended to use I-beam or angle steel as a new pouring concrete slab support beam, in the I-beam or angle above a layer of fiber cement board as a permanent template, and then pouring concrete.
Q:Hi, I have an outside breezeway that connects from my house to my garage with a roof and cement slab. I'm in the process of closing it in and making it part of my house(fully heated). I'm going to tile the floor but I'm not going to have a sub floor to insulate under it, I worry about moisture, cold floor and cracking of tiles (I live in Michigan).So my question is I'm not sure on how to go about this, I was thinking a 1/4 to 3/8 insulation rolled on the slab, then cement board and then thermostat controlled heating mat then tile, What do you think, thanks.
The whole point of backboard is to make the sub-floor rigid because tile can't move at all or the grout will crack. Since it is concrete, you're right, there isn't any point in adding anything to it. As long as your concrete is not cracked you should be good to go. Once you get the linoleum up, you just need to make sure that the concrete is nice and level. You may have to add some leveler (it's like really runny concrete), because you don't want to rely on the adhesive to level out any imperfections in the floor.

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