Durable Fiber Cement Board Exterior Wall Siding
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- China Main Port
- Payment Terms:
- TT or LC
- Min Order Qty:
- -
- Supply Capability:
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1,Structure of (Cement Boards) Description
1) fiber cement board
2) Non-pollution: 100% non-asbestos,
3)waterproof, soundproof, insect-proof
2015* durable fiber cement board exterior wall siding
Description
Calcium Silicate Board /fiber cement board
Non-asbestos Calcium Silicate Board----Raw materials are Portland cement, high-purity quartz powder, minerals (mica and perlite etc), and a variety of additives. It is light weight energy-saving building plate with non-asbestos fiber that treated by high-temperature and high-pressure steaming process according to the KTN300 technological standards. It is no asbestos, proved by State Building Material Testing and Inspection Center according to the Standards of Non-asbestos Building Products.
2,Main Features of the (Cement Boards)
Property:
ISO 9001; CQGC; CNAS
waterproof, soundproof, insect-proof
Non-pollution: 100% non-asbestos, no VOC gas, and no radiation.
Fireproof: Incombustibility Grade A; complying with BS 476 Part4\ Part6\ Part7; releasing no toxic gas; zero smoke coefficient.
Economical: Light weight but high strength, save construction costs.
3,(Cement Boards) Images
4,(Cement Boards) Specification
Standard Data of the Middle Density Firber Cement Board | ||||||||
Standard Size | 1220X2440mm/1200X2400mm | Max Width | 1250mm | Max Length | 4880mm | |||
Thickness | 4-30mm | Density | 1.3-1.7g/cm3 | |||||
Wet Expansion Rate | ≤0.23% | Water Penetration | ≤25% | |||||
Forst Resistance | No Layer & no cracks after 25 cycles under freezing and thawing | |||||||
Incombustibility | Incombustible Class A1 | Radioactivity | Decorative materials Class A | |||||
Flexural Strength | Air dried Condition ≥18 | Water Penetration | Back side without water drop after 24 hours | |||||
Saturated Condition≥14 |
5,FAQ of (Cement Boards)
Application:
Main application: partition wall and ceiling
Fireproof structure: fireproof wall, fireproof door and fireproof furniture.
Heat insulation structure: internal heat insulation layer and heat insulation of outer wall.
Sound insulation structure: cinema, meeting hall, music hall, etc, for example.
Wet areas: basement, toilet, kitchen as well as other environment of low temperature and corrosion.
Backing-up structure: best used as filling plate of screen wall. We have developed supporting system of backing-up plate for renowned units of screen wall construction.
Other purposes: applied to furniture, movable floorboard, and office dividing wall.
Specification:
Density: 1.1-1.25g/cm3
2440×1220×6 -25mm
Non combustibility: Class- A (A1)
- Q: Is it possible to use a cement board with a small double intermediate compartment?
- So the choice of 120mm thick, thickness and the live load on the board, the board should meet the requirements of cracks and deflection, concrete grade and environmental categories, and the board around the beam strength of concrete strength level, Below C
- Q: Yesterday I started a job at a warehouse store. This store, being a warehouse has cement floors. I have a pair of walking shoes I wear with added inserts for more comfort, but after my shift yesterday, I could barely walk because of the pain in my hips, knees, foot/leg joint, and my ankles. I know that arthritis runs in my family, and that other family members have had problems when dealing with cement floors. I'm only 23, but I know arthritis can start that young (I also know my knees are total crap because of sports). So my question is, could this pain be from walking on the cement floors all day, or is this just random? I never had this happen this bad before, and have never had to be on cement floors that long either.
- Ya, walking on a hard surface and also standing on it full day will put a lot of stress on the legs and also it causes the muscles to cramp. It can be due to the overuse of the knees or as you say your family members have Arthritis that can also be the reason.
- Q: ok so im trying to attach the cooling fan to my cpu on my motherboard and i cant find any glue but i did find some patch cement in a road hazard kit, i was wondering if this would work or would my computer fry?
- You need thermal paste. You can get a very small tube, enough for 1-3 applications (?) at COMPUSA (or other such place) for under $5. I work on m-boards/processors all the time and know that some kind of adhesive would probably ruin your computer. I've had many heat sinks/fans that would not separate from the processor, and sometimes lift it out of the socket without loosening the arm that tightens it. The kind of damage cant be (easily/cheaply) repaired. Get thermal paste, apply very thin amount to proc, covering the entire (proc) heat sink. Same to heat sink/fan.
- Q: A clerk told there there is a special hole saw for ceeeeeement board--but I never saw the same clerk again. I need to make five 2'' holes.
- Cement Hole Saw
- Q: hi, this is my question:To prevent a cement mixer sinking into soft ground, the mixer is placed on a large flat board. Why does this prevent the mixer sinking?the answer will be one of these, which one is it?A The large area decreases the pressure on the ground.B The large area increases the pressure on the ground.C The large area decreases the weight on the ground. D The large area increases the weight on the ground.
- None of the above. The pressure and weight on the ground is greater with a board under the mixer. However, the board distributes the weight across a larger surface area thereby reducing the pressure at any given point.
- Q: Sorry for the double post, this is an addendum to my previous question. I am planning to re-tile the downstairs foyer. Since it's on the 1st floor of a townhouse with no basement I think there's cement slab underneath, but if I need backer board I need to purchase and make arrangements to cut (I don't own a saw yet). I'd like to take a couple tiles off to check, but how can I tell the difference between the two?
- If you're laying tile on a concrete slab, you don't need to add anything, just lay the tile directly on the slab. You will need a cement-fiber board for vertical surfaces like walls. I like the Hardie products.
- Q: how can you tell the difference between asbestos and cement board?
- You have to have it tested. The difference could be as little as 2% asbestsos and they will appear the same.
- Q: What do I need when I put my toilet back down so it won't leak now that my toilet is 3/4 of an inch higher?
- I would go with DIY doc....been there done that too........you might need longer bolts?.
- Q: am Laying Floor Tile and was Wondering if the Mesh Tape for Cement Board is the Same as you use for Drywall?
- It's similar, but wider. Hope this helps.
- Q: I've taken up old linoleum tile, chip board, and two other layers of linoleum to get down to an oak floor in my bathroom. This has a felt-like paper uniformly adhered to it that must have been the backing for the first linoleum layer. I'm going to put down Hardi-backer, then tile. Do I have to take up the old tile backing material before I put down the hardibacker? It's very difficult to remove. Thanks!
- I've done it. And The kind of screws you need are not so specialized. Simple drywall screws. About 5 to 8 bucks for a box depending on their length. Now since you say you have no intention of pulling up the old vinyl flooring, and that the subflooring is plywood, I would seriously reconsider. If you are doing it this way out of sheer laziness, then dont do it at all. Also, why are you using cement backerboard for a floor? This is normally used in areas that will constantly be wet, such as a shower wall, steam room, etc. For the floor, and take it from me as I have done this before, and have worked with pros doing this as well. Rip out the vinyl flooring. Its extra work, but hey, do it right the first time not half... well you get the picture. Then once you have that done, you are left with the bare subfloor, typically Plywood or Particle board. Check to see if it is level first, if this is a new house, check to see if it is level anyways. Now, lay down over lapping layers of roofing paper. They should be overlapped by 4 inches. Nail them in place, dont glue or screw it down. Now that you have a good surface to start with, you can now begin your prep work for laying down your tile. Ok, so now you are probably asking, well, why not just leave the vinyl tile under it all, whats the difference. Well, right now, you may not think that it is, but later on you will. The thickness of that tile, plus the cement backerboard, or roofing paper will not transition decently into your adjacent rooms, and it will not look good. And yes, it will make a big difference. If you have any questions on how to go about laying the tile down, any tips, etc... feel free to ask.
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Durable Fiber Cement Board Exterior Wall Siding
- Loading Port:
- China Main Port
- Payment Terms:
- TT or LC
- Min Order Qty:
- -
- Supply Capability:
- -
OKorder Service Pledge
OKorder Financial Service
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