• End Suction Pump (NISO200) System 1
End Suction Pump (NISO200)

End Suction Pump (NISO200)

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Loading Port:
China Main Port
Payment Terms:
TT OR LC
Min Order Qty:
-
Supply Capability:
1000 set/month

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Pump Application:
Cooling water
Water supply/distribution
Drainage
Irrigation
General industrial services

Performance range
Capacity: Q up to 520 m3/h
Head: H up to 160m
Temperature: T up to 110degreeCelsius
Speed: N 2900/1450rpm
Power: P up to 160kw

Standard material
Casing: Cast iron
Impeller: Cast iron or bronze
Shaft: Stainless steel

Description
Back pull out design for fast and easy maintenance.

Q: What is the function of the pump?
Pumps are usually used to enhance the liquid, conveying a liquid or liquid to increase the pressure, that is the original motive of the mechanical energy so as to achieve variable liquid fluid energy machine called pump.The technical parameters of measuring water pump include flow, suction, lift, shaft power, water power, efficiency, etc. according to different working principles, they can be divided into volumetric pump, vane pump and so on. Displacement pump is to use its studio volume changes to transfer energy; vane pump is to use the rotating blade and water interaction to transfer energy, there are centrifugal pumps, axial flow pumps and mixed flow pumps and other types.
Q: Our CRN series pumps used in the 414V 480V 60Hz 60Hz power supply, what would be the effect? Is not the head can be reduced, there is no water pump and lift what voltage relationship?
This is the world's Grundfos pump, if the pump itself support work under the 414V if it didn't need to worry about traffic and Yang Cheng, if the pump does not support the long time operation of the pump must lift and flow impact, and the multi-stage pump if it is Gao Yangcheng in the use of low lift it is also easy to burn the motor,
Q: What's the meaning of a single-stage pump?
Single stage impeller or multistage impellerGenerally speaking, multistage impeller is adopted in booster pumps
Q: 1998 jeep cherokee water pump
Chuck has an excellent step by step write-up on doing the job yourself. Is that your question, how do I change my w/p? If not then please edit to help us help you. (I sound like Jerry McGuire) On Chucks write up I just never wait for the RTV to set up at all just put it on and snug down the bolts.
Q: Where can I get supplies to build water pumps, for decoration.Thank you.
Home Depot, Lowes, Michael's craft stores, waterfall and water feature stores, Target, WalMart and sometimes Big Lots. I've also found supplies to build decorative water pumps at my local nurseries, Green Thumb and Armstrong.
Q: I tried using my water line with a pressure tank and pressure switch but without a pressure tank I observed that when he pressure reaches 30 psi the motor pump switches off automatically and when we open the faucets to use water the pressure switch turns on again the motor pump.
All that will do is cause your pump to burn out sooner. It will run WAY more often without a tank. The tank allows for a 'range' in your pressure, in other words, the pump will fill the tank to 30 psi, but will not kick on again until the tank gets below a certain level, say 20 psi, at which point it will pump it back to 30 and cut off again. Without a tank, the pump will run whenever you draw water.
Q: i heard a water pump should not be able to move.is that correct? It is a 1995 RM250. there is no clogging in the pipes coming from the radiators with 2 fingers require force to move them but with the 1 finger it requires no force to move a couple Centimeters.
The water pump is turned by the primary gear on the crankshaft. When you were turning the water pump - the crankshaft was moving the piston up down in the cylinder. The couple of centimeters of movement is just the play between the gears - that's normal.
Q: My '95 Ford Ranger has had the sound of a bearing going bad in a pulley for about two months. Finally this weekend I started it up and it must have locked up, the belt was squealing really loud and snapped. So, now the water pump pulley has rubber chunks on it, which would make me think that is the bad pulley. But the pulley spins perfectly, really smooth. The alternator pulley on the other hand does not spin perfectly. It is not really hard to spin, but it does not spin smoothly. And the alternator pulley is real clean, no rubber on it at all. Any thoughts? I was thinking of buying a cheap belt and putting it on there, have someone start the truck and watch under the hood to see which is bad.
open your alternator and replace the bearing. there are two bearings, behind the pulley and at the end of the rotor near the slip rings then install new belts. check the rotation of both the water pump and alternator after work before installing belts. you may also check air condition compressor bearing if so equipped. check idler bearing ,if so equipped.. in short, all rotating parts/pulley you see.
Q: i want to change the water pump on my on a 70 hp (70C) nissan outboard motor and i never pulled a lower unit, not sure what to expect thanks for any help
((( get a manual))) like has been said ..but here is some genneral proceedure::::// after loosening the gear case at the cavitation plate ,,,, pull it away from the leg about half an inch and acsess the gear linkage shift rod and undo the conecting nut,, then pull the gear housing away --- ((( when you reinstal it you will have to turn the propelor by hand to push the drive shaft spline into place ))) --<- then you will have the pump housing on the gear caseing .. just pull it off the shaft retaining the small key way that turns the impelor.. ::::::: replace the impelor and push the pump housing down over the impelor..,,,, as you push it down,, turn the propelor by hand so the shaft rotates and make the fins on the impellor bend away from the shaft ,,, make sure the shaft is turning the correct way ,,with the gear in foward ,, turn the propelor so it drives foward or if in reverse turn the propelor so its driving backwards ,,, there should be a gasket between the pump housing and the gear caseing,, if not ,, use some silastic ,,, ((check the manual)) <<<<<<<<<<<<
Q: the water pump from the factory has an extra hole coming out the side its the smaller one on the end of this pic.
I would be a little hesitant on using an automotive water pump on a boat. The may seem similar however there are several key differences in the way they are made. excerpt from the below URL: In regard to the cooling systems, one of the major differences is found in the water-circulating pump. This is especially noticeable when you have a raw water cooled engine. Unlike their automotive counterpart, a marine pump works in an open cooling system. This type of system is extremely corrosive to the pump. Therefore, the pump must be altered for longevity. A marine pump has a special ceramic seal, stainless steel backing plate, and a bronze impeller to resist corrosion. An automotive style pump, with its stamped steel impeller, would fail due to corrosion in a short time. I have done this before, I boat in fresh water and my boat was raw water cooled, the pump was leaking after 2 seasons, wasn't worth the savings. The extra hole may have been for an optional closed loop cooling system on the boat or like was stated a heater or bypass line in a car.

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