Drinking Water Pump for Potable Water (CPS1100)
- Loading Port:
- Shanghai
- Payment Terms:
- TT OR LC
- Min Order Qty:
- 1 unit
- Supply Capability:
- 1700 unit/month
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Basic Info. of Drinking Water Pump for Potable Water (CPS1100)
Model NO.:CPS1100
Performance:Self-Priming Pump
Start Up:Electric Pump
Media:Water
Application:Clarified Water Pump
Type:Blade Pump
Material:Stainless Steel
Power:Electric
Structure:Single-stage Pump
Theory:Centrifugal Pump
Assembly:Liquid Pumps
Industry:Household & Agricultural Pump
Export Markets:Global
Additional Info. of Drinking Water Pump for Potable Water (CPS1100)
Packing:Export Standard Carton
Standard:CE, SGS
Production Capacity:20000PCS/Year
Product Description
Centrifugal Pump for Drinking Water
Applications of Drinking Water Pump for Potable Water (CPS1100)
For water supply from wells or reservoirs
For domestic use. for civil and industrial applications
For garden use and irrigation
Operating conditions of Drinking Water Pump for Potable Water (CPS1100)
Maximum fluid temperature up to +40°c
Max sand content: 0.25%
Motor and Pump
Rewindable motor
Three-phase:380V-415V/50Hz
Single-phase:220V-240V/50Hz
Curve tolerance according to IS0 9906
Warranty:1 year
(according to our general sales conditions)
Structural characteristics of Drinking Water Pump for Potable Water (CPS1100)
Pump body: AISI 304SS
Front cover: Cast iron
Impeller: Brass/SS
Mechanical seal: Ceramic and graphite
Shaft: 45# steel/stainless steel
Motor case: ZL102
Insulation: Class F
Protection: 54
FAQ
Q: Do you have self-priming pumps?
A: Yes, our product portfolio also includes two ranges of self-priming pumps: self-priming electric pumps and self-priming side channel pumps.
Q: Is it really necessary to fit a bleed valve for the boxes?
A: It is always best to have a bleed valve as the gas produced by the fermenting sewage is potentially hazardous.
Q: If I increase the power of the motor, must I also increase the power of the inverter?
A: You must select the size of converter that allows maximum absorption of the electric motor.
Q: Do you have pumps with grinders?
A: Yes, the WQ models.
Q: How long is your warranty?
A: Unless otherwise expressly authorized in writing, by specifying a longer period or different conditions, CNBM states that, for a period of twelve (12) months from delivery date, all Products supplied are free from defects in materials and workmanship, and conform to the applicable specifications. Either the delivery documentation or the invoice must be provided to prove delivery date. In absence of such documents, the production date appearing on the product label may suffice.
- Q: Hello, i have a 1987 volkswagen cabriolet that i purchased earlier this year. So far its been a pain in the butt. Recently i noticed it overheats real quick, but it didnt use to. then i noticed the coolant/antifreeze was being used up like no other! I discovered, after being parked at work, that it was leaking.it leaks basically anything i put in there now!! it leaks from the water pump housing,.,.... at least thats what the internet said it was.. its leaking from the end of the hose that connects to the engine... (the hose that comes from the coolant reservoir.)What do i do? I dont feel any cracks? does this part crack? is it an o-ring or somehting? I am really absolutely NOTHING ABOUT CARS. Please help!!
- Water pumps have a seal to hold the water from leaking out the spinning shaft, and the seal always wears out about every 100,000 miles. It is probably this seal that is bad, because it is probably the original pump, and you replace the whole pump. You have to take the front belt cover off and remove the timing belt, so it is not a trivial job. Cost about $300, and takes about 2 hours. But any friend who understands timing belts can do it easily. No special tools or tricks involved, other than making sure the cam timing is correct. Once you take the 3 bolts holding the water pump housing off, you can easily tell if any hoses or clamps should also be replaced. Do the thermostat while you have it off anyway. It is only $5.
- Q: i installed a new pump don't know how to increase water pressure and to what what pressure it should be set
- This is very simple i would sugest the pressure to be set betwene 60 to 70 NO MORE THAN 70. 1. turn off power to pump (ether the circut breaker or a switch near the pressure switch) you dont want to weld the wrench to the switch. 2. remove the cover to the pressure switch its self (usly one #2 phillips screw) 3. now you will see 4 wires under some sloted screws nearest to the front of the switch, behint that is 1 or 2 bolts with a spring and a nut. 4. if you see 2 bolts you will want to turn the nut on the larger one to the right. you will want to tighten it about 1 to 2 full turns. (the same goes if there is only one bolt also) 5. now open the valve that is on the tank untill you here the switch click. then close the valve. 6. turn the power back on tio the pump and watch the pressure gauge on the tank. i DO NOT RECOMEND MORE THAN 70PSI. 7. if it goes over the pressure you want repete steps above exept loosen the nut in about 1/4 to 1/2 turns untill you reach the desired pressure 8. if it does not reach your desired pressure then you do the same thing exept tighten the nut in 1/4 to 1/2 turns untill you attain your desired pressure. 9. when the pressure is reached, replace cover so you dont risk rusting the contacts. if you need more help feel free to email me. and i will assist you in any way that i can.
- Q: I have a 1 HP water pump that will pump water through a 1 and 1/2hose. What is the approx. GPM (just to have a reference) of a pump like this?
- It varies quite a bit but I would say anywhere from 6gpm - 10gpm.
- Q: I keep having to add water to. Doesn't do anything when it's sitting up. But after you drive it straight for about 25 minutes. Time to add some more water. I figure it's the water pump. It's not leaking anywhere so it has to be a failing water pump. Oil still looks good, no smoking. AC and heater blows fine. Just runs hot after a while. I need another opinion. Its the 4 cylinder also. And yes it does be steaming. Tired of having to add water everyday.
- Forget the check this and try that stuff. You need a RADIATOR SHOP the radiator is plugged and you can do nothing to clean it. Don't waste time on flushing as it is a waste. Water pumps have mechanical seals and require no lubrication and anti freeze contains no lubrication material. Plain water will not affect the pump. Never replace any part 'till you KNOW the problem
- Q: i have changed water pump,radiator and thermotast and it still overheat
- head gasket bad? engine timming off?
- Q: What things in my car could the seizing of my water pump cause? As I stated in another question, the power steering went, the red battery light came on and it over heated. The mechanic said it seized and i'm lucky the engine didn't seize. He has to look into it more. I'm just really curious as to what kind of damage i've done and the possibilities! thanks in advance.
- It really depends on the car and how hot it got when it overheated. most likely you will need a new belt and of course a water-pump. Possibly you have cracked a cylinder head or warped it, this mostly occurs on aluminum cylinder heads and is unlikely if cylinder heads are iron.
- Q: I replaced the water pump on my 350 chevy small block with a new water pump and the thing is leaking out of the lower bolt hole on the passenger side. I was told to remove the bolt and coat it with permatex hi tack gasket sealer and reinstall it Any how I'm wondering why there would be a leak there in the first place, any ideas?
- Remove the new pump and gasket. Reclean the steel surface and remove any pieces of the old gasket that might still be attached. That surface needs to be perfect. Apply the recommended sealer after this is done . Either a sealer or anti-sieze compound should be added to the threads. Recheck surface of new pump for any flaws and reinstall. Bolt in a criss -cross pattern and tighten equally , partially tight first and then all of them fully tight.
- Q: I need to install water pump and need to know the cost already purchase pump
- Depends on what engine and drivetrain you have. If it's a v6 rear-wheel-drive, you're probably looking in the neighborhood of about $650 USD. If it's a v8 all wheel drive, then you're probably looking more around $850 USD. That's for a timing belt and water pump replacement at most shops.
- Q: Domestic pump does not use water, or turn, I do not know why?
- The motor should be kept working, may be the motor switch problem, idling motor pump long time will certainly be bad, ha ha, the solution is to find a water pump maintenance master to work safety first!
- Q: The water pump needs to be replaced but now it is taking several attempts to start the car.
- How can this simple question evolve into the previous nine answers? The water pump is belt driven and mounted on the front of the engine. The starter is electrically powered and drives the ring gear on the flywheel to start the engine. One has nothing to do with the other mechanically. Hard starting can have a hundred different causes, but keep in mind the starter's only function is to spin the motor over at a certain speed. Now for the answer..... The worn water pump is allowing the alternator belt to slip and the battery is not getting fully charged. The engine does not spin over at the desired speed and the engine gets hard to start.
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Drinking Water Pump for Potable Water (CPS1100)
- Loading Port:
- Shanghai
- Payment Terms:
- TT OR LC
- Min Order Qty:
- 1 unit
- Supply Capability:
- 1700 unit/month
OKorder Service Pledge
OKorder Financial Service
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