• Double Suction Split Casing Centrifugal Pump Unit System 1
  • Double Suction Split Casing Centrifugal Pump Unit System 2
  • Double Suction Split Casing Centrifugal Pump Unit System 3
Double Suction Split Casing Centrifugal Pump Unit

Double Suction Split Casing Centrifugal Pump Unit

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Loading Port:
China main port
Payment Terms:
TT OR LC
Min Order Qty:
1 unit
Supply Capability:
1000 unit/month

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Double Suction Split Casing Centrifugal Pump Unit

It is one of the new generation sewage pump ,which designed base oninternational advanced
technology,advanced in energysaving,high efficiency,wrapped proof,non clogged,auto
installation and control,have excellent performance for medium contains particles and
fibres.


Working Condition
1. Medium temperature can not exceed 60degree normally.
2. S.G:1.0-1.3kg/dm3
3. PH:5-9


Application
Mainly apply to delivery sewage water ,waster water and rain water contains solids and
fibres:
*municipal project
*building construction
*residential area
*industrial sewage treatment
*eviroment protect
*mining


Features
1. Hydraulic design with wide flow-path non-clogged structure ,allowed fibres(3 times
length of inlet diameter),particles(30% size of inlet diameter )
2. Excellent design,high efficiency and energy saving .
3. Double mechnical seals in series,made of hard alloy corrosive proof silicon
carbide,which is durable and .wearable ,that enable pump safely operation for more
than 8000 hours continous.
4. Compact structure, small volume, easy moved and conveniently mounted , no need build
pump house, greatly reduct the cost.

 

Q: removed my water pump to replace it. i have the fan and clutch assembly still attached...i have no idea how to remove these...the fan clutch has bolts that hold the fan to it...and i did remove those but im just not sure how to separate this assembly...my water pump pulley has 4 holes...and no bolts so i presume it's pressed on...and there looks to be a very large nut between the pulley and the fan/clutch assembly...any help would be appreciated on this...i'd much rather go to the parts store w/ the old pump instead of guessing.....thnx in advance...
Corrosion is now holding everything to the pump. Use a screwdriver to help separate them. Here is a link compliments of Auto Zone showing how to remove the water pump. You will note in the picture that the pump has a shaft sticking out of the front. That is holding the clutch and fan on. Earlier I gave you the wrong link. This is the correct one for the V6. The others were for the V8s They mention to remove the fan before removing the water pump. The fan should be bolted to the clutch in the manner you say. If you grasp the shaft on the pump, the fan and clutch should rotate freely. If you pulled the 4 bolts off the pulley, the fan and clutch assembly should come off. The pulley should then fall free. Is anyone else helping you with this and they already took the bolts out? If not you must have some alternate water pump that Chrysler failed to tell everyone about. Is the large nut against the pulley or the fan clutch? I wish we could talk on the phone. Get a mallet. Put the pump on a clean surface and use the mallet to tap the pulley on one side then the other. Hopefully this will help work this off. Once you get this off, you will see it should look like the pictures I sent to you. I just sent you another link that has 3 different ways they have the fan mounted to the water pump. Yes, there is a large nut holding the clutch on. It says it is a right handed nut so be careful taking it off.
Q: Submersible pump reverse impact on the pump
Small amount of water, large current, long running time, easy overheating, or even burning pump.
Q: There is no water at all! What can we do to troubleshoot this before calling a Plumber? This is the first time this has happened and we never had a well before. Please help (serious answers only)
I have a well. When the pump is running I can hear it. If you've ever heard your pump running before and you don't now, then it's not running for some reason. Check circuit breaker first.
Q: gould water pump model Jo5n
move it up only difference is how far the pump will push water, you will get better pressure from a deep well pump,
Q: I have a 1997 Pontiac Grand Prix 3.8 v6 engine. My car has been overheating lately and my low coolant light came on so i put antifreeze in it and the light went off. I drove about 3 blocks and the low coolant light came back on again and the thermostat was at the hot mark so i checked the antifreeze and it was just about empty. I did noticed when I was pouring the antifreeze that some did run out the bottom of the car but it wasn't alot. Also I noticed that in the morning when I get up and drive my car the thermostat could be at cold but if I drive about 3 blocks it's almost at the hot mark. Please help me determine whats wrong with my car. Is my water pump bad?
It could be a number of things. What you need to do is fill it up and run it until it gets to operating temp checking for leaks while its running. If you see the fluid coming from the front of the engine it more than likely the water pump. It could also be a bad cap letting water by a hole in the radiator a hole in one of your cooling hoses or a hole in the block which is unlikely. Try that and see if you can pinpoint it. P.S. if the water pump is bad it sometimes makes a squealing noise dead give a way. Good luck!
Q: I know that the water pump is belt driven, so it would be easy to connect it to my bicycle. What I am wondering is if I can pedal fast enough to make it work. Does anyone know how fast I would need to pedal to operate the pump?
Pretty fast. Engines operate at 600-6000 rpm and the pump pulley is a little smaller than the drive pulley, so it is spinning even faster. That said, 600 rpm is plenty fast enough. You can attain that easily by applying pulley to rear tire tread, raising tire off ground and pedaling. To apply bike chain to pulley would give a disappointing water flow.
Q: I would like to change the water pump myself but do not have a repair manual.
2003 Impala Water Pump
Q: When the pump is running with frequency conversion, the instantaneous power is greater than the power frequency operation, and the actual flow and lift are less than the power frequency. When running, the efficiency is very low. Why?
Variable frequency pump running normally, its flow and lift is lower than the power frequency operation, that is for sure. The so-called power frequency operation is full speed operation, of course, the head and flow is the highest.Frequency conversion is mainly to save power and reduce the running loss of equipment. The so-called efficiency, but also by the correct selection, the actual pump head and flow as close as possible, the actual working conditions for the best.
Q: How much solar energy would you need to generate and run a small water pump? Say one that is big enough to extract water from a bucket that is 1 ft wide x 2 ft deep? What size solar panel would you need to accomplish this?
The key is, as 96sentra says, where does the water have to go. We would need to know how high above bucket (minimum) water level will the other end of the hose be, and how fast (Liter or gallon per minute) shall the water flow. This determines the pump type, which in turn determines the solar panel size.
Q: I have a old house,1920's I think it was built. My water pump kicks on all the time! The tolite upstairs is not that old but the pipes are.The tolite runs for a min. and then stops for 5 mins. When I am running a bath..the second I turn off the water in the tub,the tolite starts to run! Same with the tolite downstairs,that one is only a few years old and the pipes are the same as it is an addition to the house. When I am up late at night in my office I hear the water pump kicking on in the basement ever 10 mins or so! My electric bill is huge! How can I fix this problem? What is causing it? I have not noticed any water leaks anywhere. We turned up the pressure on the pump. That helped a little. Thank god we have our own water well. Anyone have any Idea's?
The problem is your water system is not holding pressure properly. A couple of simple things to check are the *pressure switch. This switch monitors line pressure and turns pump on and off (ex: 20/40=pump on at 20PSI off at 40 PSI). Most older systems have this along with a pressure gauge screwed into top of pump. simply turn on water while someone monitors gauge. If it reads 20 and pump starts then reads 40 and pump shuts off it is not switch. If readings are way off change switch. *if you have a bladder tank, check the pressure in it (you can tell if it has a valve stem on top just like your car tires). There is us usualy a chart on top of the tank giving recomended pressure. Use a tire gauge to check pressure, if low put some air in it. If this does not work go talk to your local hardware or someone in the plumbing trade for better suggestions.

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