Double Suction Split Casing Centrifugal Pump Unit

Double Suction Split Casing Centrifugal Pump Unit System 1

Double Suction Split Casing Centrifugal Pump Unit

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Loading Port:: China main port

Payment Terms:: TT OR LC

Min Order Qty:: 1 unit

Supply Capability:: 1000 unit/month

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Double Suction Split Casing Centrifugal Pump Unit

It is one of the new generation sewage pump ,which designed base oninternational advanced
technology,advanced in energysaving,high efficiency,wrapped proof,non clogged,auto
installation and control,have excellent performance for medium contains particles and
fibres.

Working Condition
1. Medium temperature can not exceed 60degree normally.
2. S.G:1.0-1.3kg/dm3
3. PH:5-9

Application
Mainly apply to delivery sewage water ,waster water and rain water contains solids and
fibres:
*municipal project
*building construction
*residential area
*industrial sewage treatment
*eviroment protect
*mining

Features
1. Hydraulic design with wide flow-path non-clogged structure ,allowed fibres(3 times
length of inlet diameter),particles(30% size of inlet diameter )
2. Excellent design,high efficiency and energy saving .
3. Double mechnical seals in series,made of hard alloy corrosive proof silicon
carbide,which is durable and .wearable ,that enable pump safely operation for more
than 8000 hours continous.
4. Compact structure, small volume, easy moved and conveniently mounted , no need build
pump house, greatly reduct the cost.

Q: We have a private well with a 40 year old water pump that is rusting away, and sounds like a truck. It's a double jet well pump sitting on a tank, with a second tank to one side that it's also connected to (with a thick pipe). I don't quite understand why there are two tanks (there's a third which is obviously the hot water). I'm guessing one of these is to hold water, and the other to provide air pressure? In any case, the pump runs OK, it doesn't leak, and provides plenty of pressure. It is just unbelievably loud. I've been told that replacing the bearings might take care of this problem, but seeing how the tank the pump rests upon (with a thin tube connecting it to the pump) is rotting away, and the system is older than I am, should I just replace the whole thing?: I would replace the whole unit,for one if it was to go bad you are going to have water everywhere,and also the new one will be smaller and more energy effecient.

Q: I'm going to be purchasing a laboratory distillation kit here pretty soon, the kit includes everything I need for the setup but the condenser requires a water pump to circulate cold water around the coils. What kind of pump would you recommend for this purpose?: The only thing you might need a pump for is if you are distilling/refluxing something and it is not all condensing before it reaches the end/top of the tube, resulting in vapor escaping. In that case you would use a bucket of ice water with a submersible pump.

Q: And if it needs to be replaced, does that spell trouble for a car? I see a car I might like to buy, but the ad says that the water pump needs to be replaced. Someone please enlighten me. Thanks.: when they said it need water pump that spell big trouble!!!! when water pump went out it caused the car over heated when the car over heated it could be million thing like blow head gasket special in the older car, if you get it cheap enough or vary love the car you can check the oil to see if water mix with it or try to start it up see if it smoking if none of those exit you probably okey to buy but save a lot money for repair later on.

Q: My truck turned off by itself and a bunch of steam and smoke came out and my radiator was dry. To keep it running i had to have the engine revved and at a stop sign hold the brake down. and slightly press. I'm assuming its the water pump however. It started yesterday as the colder weather started. What my question is what do you think it is and if you have experience with water pumps, how hard is it to replace i found one for $14: that don,t sound like the water pump. if it was the pump then it would overheat and leak out. check to see where it,s leaking at. if it,s leaking from the pump then it will have to be changed even though it still might not help it to idle. it,s not really that hard to change the pump on a 351W . the hardest part is getting into it. you might have to remover some stuff so you can work. the belt and water pump pulley will have to come off and the fan but that should let you into the bolts.

Q: I think the water pump in my Oceanic BioCube is going up. What is a good brand that would be compatible? It is 29 gallons. Thanks.: If okorder or just your local pet store and see if you can't buy a pump with a similar/same output.

Q: a picture of a water pump and its parts,picture of cross section of a water pump how water pump works: My suggestion is go and search in the website howstuffworks

Q: My well water pump runs constantly. The manual says it should kick off at 50 psi, it only gets to 48 (moves to 45 rather quickly, slow to 48). Water isn't an issue. Turned off all water to house, and still gets to 48, so I believe I can exclude leak somewhere in the house.One place I called said it could be a bit of grit in the jet pump when I called. This seems like it could cost big bucks. Could I suggest for the service man to check anything else?: yes, call a service man to check and estimate repair cost.

Q: I have a '97 Chevy S-10 2.2 with 208K miles. Today on the way to work the heat cut out suddenly.I have had an issue with my engine where the temp will go up and down while on the highway but maxes out at like 215. Today after the heat cut out it was getting up near the redline before going back down to 150.I made sure the coolant was good before coming home but on the way home it was doing the same thing. I changed the thermostat but it's still doing the same thing.When I rev the engine I can see the upper radiator hose collapsing so it seems like there's a clog somewhere but I don't know how to find it. I guess it could be the water pump but then what is causing the suction on the upper radiator hose?Anyone have any ideas?: You have a leak in a hose. I would suspect a heater hose or lower radiator hose. When you put water into the radiator, you still had air in the system, this prevents you from having the required amount of coolant in the system. Find the leak, fix the leak. Jack up the front of the truck to where the radiator cap is at the highest point in the system, then add coolant. Problem solved.

Q: I have a water pump that works with 12V and 2 amps.I was thinking to get a potentiometer to be able to slow down the speed.Is this the best way to do it? What wattage should it have, so it doesn't burn out, and what should be the maximum resistance, to be able to stop the pump completely?And OKorder or product link would be great!Thanks!: A potentiometer will work, and this could be wired in series with the pump as long as its minimum resistance was zero ohms. You can also use an adjustable voltage regulator which would likely be more energy efficient but a more complex device. A potentiometer or regulator would need to have a minimal rating of 12V * 2A = 24 watts. A potentiometer, that is made for 12 volt applications, should be available at a local auto parts store. It has a simple, ceramic insulated, wire-wound resistor, and should have a 5 to 10 amp rating Sources below are to more sophisticated controllers than a simple potentiometer.