• Compensating cable Compensating Conductor System 1
  • Compensating cable Compensating Conductor System 2
  • Compensating cable Compensating Conductor System 3
  • Compensating cable Compensating Conductor System 4
  • Compensating cable Compensating Conductor System 5
Compensating cable Compensating Conductor

Compensating cable Compensating Conductor

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Shanghai
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Supply Capability:
1000000meters m/month

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Compensating conductor, compensating cable

Product Description

  The products are applicable for the electric connection between various thermocouples and temperature-indicating instrument with index of S,K,E,T,J and N to improve the thermometric precision.Usually,the PVC insulated and sheathed compensating cable is applied since it's good for its dampproof ante-corrosion and flame-retardant performance.The heat-resistant fluoroplastic insulation and sheath has high temperature-resistant,alkali-resistant acid-resistant,oil-resistant, wear-resistant,age resistant,waterproof and flame-retardant performance.The silicon rubber insulated compensation conductor and compensating cable have oil-resistant,anti-corrosion,age resistant,waterproof and flexible features.The compensating cable is composed of certain quantities of twisted pair type compensating.

Executive Standard:

Apply GB/T4989-94 and JB/T7495-94.   Which is equivalent to IEC584-3 (1989)

Operational Performances:

1.Working temperature:

  General: max. 135°C~ -20°C

  Heat resistant: max. 275°C~ -60°C

  Fire resistant: max. 550°C~ -60°C


2. Minimum bending radius:

  A. PVC insulated and sheathed

  parallel type: not less than 6 times of the thickness of the compensating conductor; twisted pair type: not less than 6 times of the outer diameter of the compensating conductor

  B. Fluoroplastic insulated and sheathed

  parallel type: not less than 10 times of the thickness of the compensating conductor; twisted pair type: not less than 10 times of the outer diameter of the outer diameter of the compensating conductor.

  C. Silicon rubber insulated and sheathed

  parallel type: not less than 4 times of the thickness of the compensating conductor; twisted pair type;not less than 4 times if the outer diameter of the compensating conductor.

  D. For no armored layer compensating cable, not less than 6 times of the outer diameter of the cable. For armor-layered compensating cable, not less than 12 times of the diameter of the cable. For fluoroplastic sheathed and insulated compensating cable, shall not be less than 8 times of the outer diameter of the cable.

Main Technical Data

1.Type, alloy materials and insulation colors

Type of

Compensating Conductor

Equipped Thermocouple

Thermocouple Index

Compensating Conductor

Alloy -wire

Insulation

Layer Coloration

Positive

Negative  

Positive

Negative  

SC

PtRh10-Platinum thermocouple10

S

SPC   Cu

SNC

Cu Ni

Red

Green

RC

PtRh13-Platinum thermocouple13

R

RPC   Cu

RNC Cu Ni

Red

Green

KCA

KCB

KX

Ni Cr- Nisi-loy

Thermocouple

K

KPCA Fe

KPCB Cu

KPX Ni Cr

KNCA Cu Ni

KNCB Cu Ni

KNX Ni Si

Red

Blue

Blue

Black

NC

NX

Ni Cr- Nisi-loy

Thermocouple

N

NPC Fe

NPX

Ni Cr Si

NNC Cu Ni

NNX Ni Si

Red

Grey

Grey

EX

Ni Cr- Copper-nickel

Thermocouple

E

EPX Ni Cr

ENX Cu Ni

Red

Brown

JX

Fe- Copper-nickel

Thermocouple

J

JPX Fe

JNX Cu Ni

Red

Purple

TX

Cu- Copper-nickel

Thermocouple

T

TPX Cu

TNX Cu Ni

Red

White



Note: The letter of type is corresponding to the index of thereto couple, the letter "C" in the second letters represents compensated type compensating conductor, the letter "X" represents prolonged type compensating conductor. The SC type compensating conductor can adapt thereto couple with R type index.


2.Category and grade-mark of compensating conductor

Category

Accuracy Grade and Marking

Sheath Coloration

General

Precision

General

Precision

General

G

B

A

Black

Grey

Heat-resistant

H

B

A

Black

Yellow


3.Thermoelectric potential and allowance

Type

135°C

280°C

(mV)

Thermoelectric

(mV) Allowance

(mV)

Thermoelectric

(mV) Allowance

General        

Precision

General        

Precision

SC

0.645

±0.0379(5°C)

±0.023(3°C)

1.440

±0.0379(5°C)

±0.023(3°C)

BC

  0.333

  -

  -

0.178

  -

  -

KC

  4.095

±0.105(2.5°C)

±0.763(1.5°C)

6.137

±0.201(5°C)

  -

KX

  4.095

±0.104(2.5°C)

±0.065(1.3°C)

8.137

±0.100(2.5°C)

±0.060(1.0°C)

EX

   6.317

±0.570(2.5°C)

±0.102(1.5°C)

13.419

±0.183(2.5°C)

±0.111(1.5°C)

JX

   5.268

±0.134(2.5°C)

±0.081(1.5°C)

10.777

±0.138(2.5°C)

±0.083(1.5°C)

TX

   4.277

±0.047(1.0°C)

±0.024(0.5°C)

9.286

±0.053(1.0°C)

±0.043(0.5°C)


4.The intrinsically safe compensation wire has the following data in addition to the above data

Item

Unit

Data

Working capacity

PF/m

80

Unbalanced capacity

PF/m

1

Distributed inductance

µH/m

0.6

Electrostatic induction (electrostatic voltage 20kV)  

V

1

Electromagnetic interference reduction (interfered magnetic field 400A/m)

mV

5


5.Other performance data

Item

Unit

Technical Data

PVC insulation

F46 insulation

Insulation resistance (20°C)

M .km

25

500

Test voltage

V/min

1000

Flame-retardant character  




FAQ

Example 1: Compensated type and precision grade compensating cable for connection with index K thermocouple: max. application temperature is 200°C,Fluoroplastic insulation flame-retardant temperature is 135°C,PVC sheath is of twisted pair type, aluminum/plastic compound separate shield and copper tape general shield. 7 compensating conductor pairs, conductor nominal section is 1.5mm2, multiple-strand alloy-wire stranding, expressed as: ZR135-KC-HS-FP3VP2 7 X 2 X 1.5

Example 2: Prolonged type and precision grade compensating conductor for connection with index E thermocouple:max. application temperature is 275 0C ,fluoroplastic insulation and sheath, tin-plated copper wire shield, single-strand conductor, section is 2.5mm=, expressed as:

EX-HS-FF46P1 2 X 2.5





Q: Hey! I bought a new sound system for my truck including 4 new speakers, a sub, a 5-channel amp, and I'm running all new wiring. So far I've got the 3 RCA cables ran, along with the blue remote turn-on wire along the right side of my truck. I plan to run the Power wire down the left side and then to my amp.I've heard that you put the power wire and RCA cables on different sides, which is what I've done, but is it ok for my speaker wires to be run beside or close to the power wire(4-gauge fyi)?For example, the right side speaker wires wont be near it, but the left side speaker wires will be...Will this cause any weird noise from my speakers?I don't have the names/etc of all my gear right in front of me, but if u rly need it, I will quot;add detailsfor you! Thanks!!
Separating the power the speaker wires is not as important in a car that uses DC voltage as it is in a home system that has AC voltage. It certainly doesn't hurt anything, tho.... If you do run them across each other, keep the intersection as close to a good right angle as possible. And, air is a very good insulator, so keeping some distance between the power the speaker wires is also very good.
Q: everything was working great! and then i blew the main fuse! i replaced it everything was fine after that but then out of nowhere i only have power in half of the power cable connected to the amp!! What can i do??
Not sure what power in half the power cable means. Are you saying (for example) you have a 6 foot power cable coming off the battery to the amp and only 3 feet has power and the other 3 feet doesn't? I would isolate the power wire from start to finish. I would bypass the power wire by running an external wire from the battery terminal to the amp. Basically, disconnect the old power wire from the battery (or source of power) and amp. Then run a temporary wire from the battery to the amp. If everything works then something is wrong with the original power wire.
Q: Hi,I have this Corsair TX 750W PSU and one of the cable have 3 x4pins connectors on it. i use one of the 4pins connector on this cable to power 6 fans on my case and the other two 4pins connectors i use one to connect to two ssd drives and other connector to the IDE 1.5TB hdd. do you think that this single cable is under stress to power up all 9 items? is there rule about psu cable? i am asking this because i thought maybe the psu is affecting my gtx 670 sli performance. i get P11000 score and X5006 using 3dmark 11. so it is a bit low. i should get arouynd P16000+.i have i7 2600k @ 4.5ghz w HT and pc3200 16GB. i hope someone can point out the low score issue and power supply cable question.. i am currently running drivers 320.49
A computer power supply is really several supplies in the same box. The specs will tell you if those 4-pin connectors all go to the same place. The outputs for the graphics card come from a different source than those 4-pin Molex connectors so those aren't going to affect performance. You would have to add up the current draw for all of the fans and the drives to know if the power supply is being overloaded. The fans have the current draw printed on them so write them down and add them up. But if you are paranoid, open the case and disconnect the case fans. Also disconnect the drives you aren't using. SSD's don't draw nearly as much power as a HDD so try to disconnect the hard drive if you can. Then run the test again and it should be exactly the same.
Q: i dont even know what phantom power is. i bought a behringer c-1 mic and ii think i need phantom power.is it a cable. i just wanna connect it to my laptop via usb or audio input jack...plz helpthnanks
confident, you could. I certainly have a Beyer MCE-80 one that demands phantom capacity and it takes an XLR cable. As for why this is talked approximately as phantom capacity, the term refers to a capacity source exterior to the microphone, frequently the two interior the form of a phantom capacity module or a capacity source outfitted into each and every channel of a mixing console. some mikes, by contrast, require a battery for their capacity source--I used to have a Sony mike that took a C battery.
Q: I don't do a lot of stuff like this, so I'd appreciate some information about how to do this: basically, I'm trying to route a coaxial cable from outside into the house. The cable is outside, and needs to go through the outside brick layer, then through the wall itself (through insulation?) then through the drywall (through a new outlet plate too).Any suggestions about how to go through the wall with a wire? I'd even appreciate a link to a how-to site as well.Thanks.
If this is for TV cable the cable company will do this for you. The main question is where are the electric wires in the wall. You don't want to get through the brick and find wires. So if you are bound and determined to do this yourself I would start from the inside. Cut out a square of the drywall, keep it to replace later, move the insulation with gloves and see if you can see the brick. That's when you use a concrete drill bit to drill thru the brick. Feed wire thru all and figure out where the hole should be in the drywall you saved,and make one (feeding the wire thru the drywall square.) Then once you have what you want all done, get some drywall mud, small container and use a spatula to fill all edges-let dry. Then redo as needed. When the seams are filled, get a wet rag and sand it down in circles til it's smooth to the touch, repaint and you are done, (they do have receptacles to put that wire thru if its in a space that will be seen.) But I'd call your cable company.
Q: if found the reistance then what are the acceptable limits such that replace the cable or repair the cable
See the document by Megger on how to determine if a cable is good and much more. This is a very good document that covers both static (insulation hipot testing) and TDR fault location methods.
Q: Hi. I have an iBook power cable and I was wondering if there was a way to adapt it so I can use it for my new MacBook Pro that uses a magnetic cable? Thanks!
No, you really can't. The effort and money that would be spent on it would far exceed the cost of a new cable.
Q: I'm new to PCs and I recently bought a Dell Optiplex 745 desktop PC but it came without cables. I thought I had the correct power cord but it turns out I gave it away to friends. I have the power cable that you plug into the wall which has the standard PC kettle plug (the correct one for PCs not an actual kettle plug) that you'd usually plug into an adapter then into your PC but I'm not sure if you can just plug it in without the correct adapter. I have Googled but cant make head nor tail of it all. And by adapter I mean the cable with the little box that you usually plug into a device such as a PC, laptop or Xbox 360 before you connect the cable to the mains.Thanks.
It all comes down to the amount of output that the pc is set to take. I would think that you would be fine without the adapter, assuming it already works. If you do decide to do this make sure you set up a surge protector, dont just plug it into the wall. A power surge could fry the internals and brick the pc.
Q: types of computer cables and where they are being used?
For communication between devices in the computer, such as the hard drive and the motherboard, either IDE or SATA cables are used. For power, Its either a 3 or 4-pin power connector, though some things have two pins (like fan connections to the mother board). Also, the SATA devices use SATA power cables.
Q: My Xbox 360's power supply cord is very loosely connected. I've tried to push it with force, didn't go further. Games lag a bit (GTA IV, for example) at graphically expensive situations. Simplier games like Limbo and Worms run without any problems. I think my console suffers from voltage drop because cable isn't properly connected.Power cord looked like this already when I connected my console for the first time. Now my Xbox 360 S is only couple of days old. Please tell me what your consoles look like. Power supply's light is also orange. Not yellow, not red - orange.
It's not possible to drop voltage as you said. It's either connected, or it's not. The power won't wain. It just won't work at all if not properly inserted. But if the power cord won't seat properly in a brand new console, you're still under warranty. I'd get it replaced if I were you..

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