Chemical Pumps IH Series

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Chemical Pumps IH Series

Introduction
The IH type pump is chemical cantilever centrifugal pump, used for transporting corrosive medium or the medium which are not permitted to contaminate, and the liquid temperature is within -20°C-105°C. It can deliver much higher temperature medium by cooling unit. It is a saving energy product ,replaced type F anti-corrosive centrifugal pump.

Feature

1. IH model sulfuric acid pumps are the series of products designed according to ISO international standards. It is mainly composed of pump body, impellers, seal rings, impeller nuts, pump cover, seal parts, intermediate support, spindle, suspended parts and so on.

2. To make it convenient to disassemble, the prolonged coupling is designed, so that it is unnecessary to disassemble the Coupled input & output pipes during check and maintenance, only by disassembling the intermediate coupler of the prolonged coupling, users are able to screw out rotor part.

3. The shaft seal is mechanical seal generally, use of imported titanium rings and carbide mechanical seals and high temperature materials, corrosion resistant, no leakage.

4. The pump is connected with the motor through flexible coupling, the pump rotation direction, from the motor end, is clockwise rotation.

Application

Widely applied to chemical industry, petroleum, desalination of seawater, metallurgy, paper mill, foodstuff, pharmaceutical factory and synthetic fiber etc.

Type and definition

IH 50 32-160-A-S1-303
IH-chemical centrifugal pump
50-pump intake diameter(mm)
32-pump diameter of discharge opening(mm)
160-impeller nominal diameter(mm)
A- impeller after the first cutting
S1-pump sealing mode S1 refers to single end surface inside mechanical seal
303-material code for contacting parts

Q: Ok, here's my problem. My parents bought this house a few years ago. No problems at first, but then during Hurricane Katrina, the basement started to flood from the heavy rains. Now whenever it rains, it floods. We have a half bath down there and the water would drain out in the shower drain. Now no water drains out, and we've already check the drain for clogs. It's clear. We currently have to bucket the water out.I'm looking for a good water pump to get them before I move out. I'm not sure if it has a sump pit or anything.We don't particularly care if we have to pump it out through a window or anything, as we have a pasture next to us. I just need something that could pump out the water when it rains. Preferably something not too expensive but that will still get the job done.Note: This is in Louisiana; lord knows what compelled the people who built this house to build a basement.Any suggestions/advice are much appreciated.: hydromatic okorder /.. ~Honsell T- the reason he has water entering his basement is because he lives in Louisiana(or anywhere in the south really), which is at or BELOW sea level. you have to have serious waterproofing to not have leaks.

Q: An engineer is given the job of designing the water system for a tall building. He decides to locate the pumps at ground level and feed the entire building from there. If the top floor of the building is 236 m above ground level, what must the pressure be at pump level?: 23.6 E5 Pa

Q: Do it yourself steps: This Site Might Help You. RE: 1995 Honda Civic water pump replacement steps? Do it yourself steps

Q: i hear water swirl in my dash board when i take off and when i reverse, i heard its the water pump pushing water through the heater core, but how can i fix it.?: The issue is not just that the water pump is pumping air through the system, it is that there is an issue with air being in there in the first place. It gets there one of two ways. First, your cooling system is losing water somewhere and air is getting drawn in through the coolant overflow bottle or through a leak in the hoses, the radiator, or the radiator cap. Second it is getting in through a compression leak. Compression leaks are caused by blown head gaskets or cracked or corroded cylinder heads or engine blocks. You need to determine which it is, because you need to address the issues differently. Fill the cooling system with coolant, purge the air out of it, and connect a pressure gauge to the radiator where the cap normally goes. Start the engine. If the gauge fluctuates up and down, you have a compression leak caused by a blown head gasket or crack in the block or head. If the gauge doesn't fluctuate, you have a leak in the cooling system that could be in any one of many places, such as hoses, caps, freeze plugs, the radiator itself, the heater core, or one of many gaskets. If it turns out to be a compression leak, you need to pull off the heads and replace the gaskets, and if there is any corrosion or cracks, you need to either replace or repair the heads. Broken head bolts can also allow compression leaks, so if you do remove the heads, you need to replace the bolts and torque them to the correct specs. If your engine oil looks frothy, like latte, this is another sign that you have a blown head gasket. It means coolant is getting into the engine oil. If it is a leak in the cooling system that is not related to the head gasket, you need to find it and seal it. There is no other way to find out exactly what is allowing air into your cooling system other than these two methods. The sound you hear when water is flowing through your heater core is actually the air gurgling through. No air, no sound.

Q: Van died on the road. It wants to turn over, but it won't start. I had it towed to Firestone. They're telling me that it needs a whole list of stuff. I ask them, quot;What does it need to just get it running?They say, quot;A new timing belt, water pump, thermostat, and coolant flush.quot;If the timing belt is indeed broken, I know that it will need to be replaced. And, probably the water pump, too. But, what is the importance of the thermostat and coolant flush? Will the car not run if I don't have a thermostat? Can't I just put Engine Coolant in and not have to quot;flushwhatever is supposed to be flushed?Thank you in advance for your help.: they are trying to upsell ya,car with x amount of miles needs this $$$.

Q: Is there a way to test and see if it is the water pump that causes the car heater to blow hot air one time and then, next time it blows cold air? We flushed the heater core and did other tests, so we do not believe it is the heater core. We left the radiator cap off and ran the car (ford thunderbird..'94) for 20 minutes and watched the antifreeze level come up, but doesn't go down, not circulating. We cannot afford to go to another garage. None of them seem to know what to do anywyas and we keep paying people to fix the heater and it is not fixed. We have put two new thremostats in car, too, figuring that maybe the first one may have been faulty, but should we try that again?: Note that the main purpose of a water pump in your car is to keep the engine cool. The heat that you get through the heater comes off the smaller hoses on the water pump. If your car isn't overheating chances are the pump is ok. Check your engine temp after the car has ran for awhile. The temp guage should go up when the car is warming up, then the guage will drop when the thermostat opens. It won't drop alot but you should be able to see it. Another thing you can try is to follow the heater hoses to where they go into the firewall and touch them after the car has ran for awhile. If your heater is on full they should both feel about the same temp. There is a control valve on the heater hoses that regulate the flow of water to the heater core and this valve may not be working properly.

Q: All of a sudden I have no water coming to the house/anywhere from the pump/well outside. It's a newer well, good water quantity (Florida...no dry up problems), no sand in water. I'm new to this house and don't know much about the pump stuff. Is there something I should look at or switch on/off. The breaker is ok. Help, I need a shower! :) Oh, there were about 15 ants around some box, but it didn't look connected to the pump...it's a box to the pool filter thing.: And last but not least, is the submerged pump. This pump actually is down inside the well casing. Usually towards the bottom of the casing. If you have to pull it, it involves disconnecting the electrical and plumbing lines, and literally, pulling it up by the chain or pipe. It could be a few hundred feet down. If it comes to this, I'd suggest calling in a plumber or well technician. If you dont like the idea of running down this whole list, then call a plumber, or well technician, and let them chase it down. Good Luck

Q: Any ideas on where and what type of water pump I should use for my 29 Gallon BioCube tank? It seems that the water pump is very loud and is not working the way it should. There are bubbles shooting the aquarium and I have tried everything to fix it. I am thinking of replacing the water pump all together. Any ideas on brands that would be compatible? Anyone else tried this? Please help...: ok before replacing have you cleaned the inside, and if there are air bubbles comming out it is because it is running dry. Basically all biocubes do this, the filter pad is slowing down the water too much, so either rince it well or replace it. Also i would wash out the blue sponge right before the pump as that can hold alot of dirt as well. Then if not add more water. But if you want to replace the pump, try via aqua water pumps. they tend to be the best. owner of the BC 29 and BC 14

Q: Yesterday my car was making squeaky noises in the front and then the fan came on FULL FORCE it sounded lik an airplane. It then started to over heat. I looked to see if there was any antifreeze/coolant in it and it was BONE DRY. I found out the water pump is bad. My boyfriend wants to change it himself but he doesn't know if where it is located is so complex he should take it to a mechanic. He has changed water pumps before. If you know anything about this.. your advice is very much appreciated!!: get a book on you car from autozone and he can fix it. and would give him step by step directions on what to do.

Q: Had a water pump start leaking, when I replaced it with a new one, it leaked even worse (around the gasket and O rings this time). The process I took...I unbolted everything and removed the water pumpI scrapped everything off with a wire brushI coated both sides of the gasket with red gasket siliconI mounted the new one and bolted it down tightening in a cross pattern(kinda difficult to get everything lined up)It leaked real bad the first time so I loosened the bolts and played with the top rubber seal to make it seat better.It leaked a little less the second time... but still WAY too much.I completely removed it the third time and (totally distroying the gasket) gooped it up with gasket sealer again, along with the O rings and tried again... leaked worse.Considering options... go with a white or black high heat siliconPossibly just using the sealer with NO gasketGooping the HECK out of it with JB-weld and pray!Suggestions?Know what I did wrong here?: Two questions 1) Did you buy a new gasket? 2) Did you let the sealant set long enough? If you answered yes to both of these than the only thing left is to make sure you have the right type of sealant. Is it the waterproof stuff for waterpumps? You mentioned the stuff was red, it's been a couple of years since I changed a waterpump but I believe it was the BLUE stuff that I needed. But I could be wrong. Take it apart. Make sure it's clean (you can use a wire brush but I find a paint scraper works better) and apply the new gasket to the new water pump then but the whole thing back on the engine. Star pattern tightening the bolts. Test it without putting the clutch fan (I think this still has one) back on just to see if it's leaking. Hope that helps.

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