CDM2 Series Moulded Case Circuit Breakers

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Q: I have a 99 mitsubishi eclipse, and recently the radio stoped working, along with the reading lamp that I have. I looked under the hood in the fuse box, and there was a fuse blown, but everytime I put a new one in, it would blow almost right away. What exactly is this caused from, and how can I get it fixed?: There's a fault with one of the components on the circuit or one of the power wires is grounding to earth (trapped wire/damaged sleeving etc). Identify exactly which items are covered by this fuse and switch all the items off. Change the fuse for a good one, and then switch each component on in turn to see which one causes the fuse to blow. A fairly common fault for aftermarket stereos is for a wire to get trapped between the mounting cage and the chassis of the stereo when it's being pushed into the dashboard, stripping the casing off the wire and causing it to ground to earth. Could also be listening to the stereo too loud (again aftermarket stereos are more likely to be affected) - the extra current to the stereo may cause it to pop the fuse.

Q: I bought a pair of dm220 bowers and Wilkins speakers from this man on kijiji. I've had them for about 3 months now and I would say it's the best purchase I've ever made in audio gear. So I had a party at my house a few weeks ago, and I got a little careless, I raised the volume high enough I had blown the fuse of each speaker. Upon replacing them, the right speaker did not work right away.I get the right speaker to work temperaly by slightly tilting it and letting fall back to the floor. (it's a tall speaker) That bang seems to knock something inside, I hear a spark noise from the speaker, and it works perfectly, but not for ever. I have to do this every few days to keep it going.Last night, that wouldn't fix it. So i decided to turn the volume pretty loud, hear that spark noise, and it started working! Even after reducing the volume. I see this is a specific problem, but I would very much appreciate some advice on a proper fix for this speaker.: That fuse blew to protect your amplifier. Normally it will blow when the speaker circuit opens and that is what I would be troubleshooting if I was working the problem. In my opinion you have an intermittently loose connection; probably either where the wire enters the speaker enclosure or inside the enclosure. It's a remote possibility that the speaker wire is damaged but that is very remote. A thorough inspection of the speaker wire, from the point where it begins to move when you bump the speaker right up to the enclosure. If that exposes nothing the problem is in the enclosure itself. High quality enclosures are a specific size, and ported with carefully designed holes. Most of the time the only way to access the guts is to remove the speaker itself. Do so carefully and inspect every connection. Pay special attention to any small/fine wire connections especially the ones to the voice coil and cone. Now here's the secret, if you don't understand exactly what I am saying in the above you probably aren't qualified to open the cabinet and you would be well served to seek out someone who is. It isn't difficult to damage things in a speaker housing, frequently without even knowing that you did cause more trouble. Good Luck GIMP EDIT: Have you swapped the channels, i.e. run the left speaker off the right channel and vice verse?? Anytime you have something broke and an identical something working that working unit will become your best friend. Keep talking to me, I'll keep listening and adding EDITs. Cheers

Q: I remove the negative battery wire, put my multimeter inline with the battery and said wire, and place it on DCV 20 and see if there is a draw with all the lights and components turned off. Then start removing fuses until the draw drops?Additional Details98 ford mustang v6 3.8L manual trans: I would use the meter in current mode, not voltage. Look for the DCA range. You might have to switch the positive lead to another port for testing current depending on the range. Like you said, hook the meter up in series with a battery terminal and start pulling fuses until the current draw suddenly drops. Then you know which circuit to investigate.

Q: I have a circuit keep blowing fuse(0.4A) with slightly lower rating of my transformer (0.5A) without any load, so i think is the issue of in-rush current. ***Note : my transformer is toroidal, saw a lot of website saying they inhibit higher inrush voltage (80times. scary)***Will the in-rush current will do any harm or any changes to other things(component) ?If so, what type or rating of fuse should i get ? (best if easily get, market available)ORis there any way to de-energize the transformer when it is turned off/before switch on, or any circuit to use for protect over-current/voltage during inrush ONLY ***Note that i want to make my circuit fuse safe from short circuit and blow the fuse if it is really short circuit***: The inrush current here happens because of the large capacitor. Initially it has no charge and no voltage, so the initial current flow into it is only limited by the resistance and reactance of the transformer. If anything a toroidal transformer would increase the inrush current, because it has less reactance! but the difference will be negligible. The usual (cheap) solution is to use a 'slow blow fuse', which wont blow from ther brief transient. Sometimes, a resistance is connected initially in series with the capacitor to minimise the initial current, and then shorted out by a relay after a small time. The limitations of a transformer are mainly due to heating: the inrush current is only a short time, so it should not cause the transformer to heat beyond its rating. Also, the rectifier may be damaged by the inrush if it exceeds its maximum 'non-repetetive' peak current rating, but this is usually very large.

Q: i have replaced this fuse 10x in one day. keeps blowing. it controls the pw mirrors,pw,pwr locks,heated seats, and i think the dashboard lights and radio illumination. they are also not working. does anyone out there know what the prob could be. im hopoing its something simple and i can avoid going to an auto electirc shop and get taken for diagnostics and labor. your help is greatly needed and appreciated. thanks: Sounds like a dead short. The answer to a blowing fuse is not just replace it (x10??), you have to trace the cause and there could be many causes. for example: Has any part of the wiring been chafing on a sharp metal edge?

Q: GE microwave oven blows its main time delay inline fuse everytime i put new one in: Microwave Fuse

Q: i checked the fuses, i had similar problems when i tried to install a stereo deck myself. Also my srs lights are on and my window does not open.: time for another car friend. don't mess with this as it is old. face it jap cars don't last forever. u no n japan they don't rebuild anything? everything is replaced every 100,000 km which is 66000 miles. ur car isn't designed to last. that is why every jap car in a wreck is totalled. the jap car co's make more money selling u a new car. so but another jap car. I don't want to catch u riding n a real car, like a 57 chevy or 67 mustang. I will pop u n tha haid an take it from ya.

Q: I have dont have a fuel injected bike.Its a suzuki rf600does the wiring fry that easily ? ( if thats the case?): check the fuses again with a volt meter some times they look good but aren't.Take the fuses out if you can .Check the wires with a ohm meter selection to see if they are grounded.usually these two functions are on the same tool.Next check the battery to see if you have 12 volts.

Q: E.C.M. stands for electronic control modal: Checking fuses is fine - probing the electronic module wires with a test light can easily short out an internal component.

Q: I did this hardware mod for my computer : (: The blown fuse is what protects the rest of your PC from power surges etc., and that's exactly why it blows. If you can replace the fuse do that and you should be all set. If not then you'll need to replace the power supply. Hope this helps.

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