CDM2 Series Moulded Case Circuit Breakers

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Q: I am having a hell of a time trying to find a 1.6 micro mini fuse for a circuit board with wire leads on them. I need ones that are fast acting (so far, I have only been able to locate slow)Is it possible that I can replace the 1.6 fast acting with a 1.5 fast acting? I have a 1.6 slow fuse with leads on them. But I heard that you shouldn't use a slow fuse with sensitive electrical components where there had been a fast acting fuse prior. (I would only be running at most 50w)Thanks for any help you may offer, I am much obliged: I assume that you've already blown the 1.6 amp fuse. Have you found the cause? Although putting a smaller rated fast fuse in it's place is normally OK for the short time it takes to find the correct size, electronics are very precise in amperage. I wouldn't use the 1.5 fast or the 1.6 slow in place of the 1.6 fast. You're taking a risk that is not necessary if this is an expensive piece of equipment. Wait and find the correct one.

Q: I wrote to the company and they said they can't (or won't) identify the thermal fuse rating, nor will they tell me where to get one. They told me to just buy a new fryer for $50. I don't want to do that, being that I know the fuse costs $2 (I just replaced on my coffee machine). The numbers on the old one are illegible. If I knew the specific rating, I think I could just scoot down to the local Radio Shack and get a new one, like I did for the coffee maker. I can find no service manual anywhere. I assume the rating has to be at least 450 degrees F, but I want to get some more info before replacing what is essentially a fail-safe protection device. If I get on that is rated to high, I run the risk of severely overheating the unit, and I have teenagers who may use it; too low, and it will blow before the oil gets nearly hot enough to fry my chicken. I know I can make the thing operate without the fuse, but I would like to replace it. Any info?: okorder

Q: i was taking off my car battery and when i touched the screw with the pilers, sparks flew and all the electricity in the car is not working now! what did i do?: You have popped some fuses, or perhaps burned up some components, like voltage regulator or relays, or worse, burned some wires. You have generated some business with a car repair shop.

Q: I was preparing to drive my car at night.as i turn on the lights smoke puff out just beneath the dashboard near the instrument panel.all the lights are ok except my panel which is pitch black.I cant see the speedometer,tachometer etc.Smell of burned plastic fills the cabin atmosphere.The car engines has no problem.: one of the wires short circuited, that is on the parking light circuit. without anything using the power the wire overheated and burnt the plastic coating. Shouldn't be very much to fix since you know what caused it and where it had the smoke.

Q: after a ride i noticed my neutral light, tachometer, blinker lights and gauge, and brake light were not working anymore. im not good at electrical but i took off my gas tank and seat to follw the wires and i didnt see anything that looked like it wasnt getting contact, and i also checked my fuses. any thoughts?: Because it spent all that time in the ocean after the tsunami

Q: I have a variac transformer rated at 7.5 amps but the fuse burned out. I want to increase the rating to 20 amps, can I do this by replacing the fuse with a 20 amp fuse?: The weakest link in a Variac is the carbon commutator wiper (the part that rotates on the exposed adjustable winding). While the Variac may tolerate a 20 amp fuse rating for a short period of time - the wiper will soon burn out and become intermittent or open due to excessive current. Try a 7.5 amp slo-blow fuse instead of the conventional fuse. This will give the variac more surge protection and provide the same capacity as a higher rated fuse for a short period of time and still prevent permanent damage to the wiper/winding components.

Q: i recently got my battery replaced because it wasnt holding charge. when it came out of the shop, the clock, power mirrors, and floodlights arent running. everything else seems fine, and i checked the fuses, all are intact. There were no problems with those 3 components before the battery was replaced. Any Ideas to fix this? thanks: Did you check the fuse block in the engine compartment. There may be a fuse or relay there that is bad. There may be a spare relay in the box. If this fails, I would go back to the shop and explain it to them. They may have disconnected something and didn't get it hooked back up. Hope this helps and good luck

Q: I have an old Lennox unit. The AC still runs fine. Heater quit on me back in March. not sure if the elements or what. winter coming soon and need to get this up and running again: Check the fuse's first. If they are good and the blower fan motor is running, the problem is probably either the heating elements or a disc limit is bad. The best way to check these components is ohm them out with a multi-meter. If you have not worked with electricity before I would call a qualified service tech to check on this problem as you are working with high voltage and it can be very dangerous. When you find which part is bad you can call a certified Lennox dealer (just look in the phone book) and give them the model number of the unit. Lennox is very good about keeping parts in stock even on older units.

Q: from a circuit board, is this a resistor or a fuse?: That is a current protection fuse. The one shown is a 3.15a 250v ceramic. Most boards or devices have the correct specs labeled for safety fuses, as the picture does. Glass fuses have their specs stamped into the metal end caps.

Q: I just recently joined the National Guard Reserve as a 21R Interior Electrician and plan on going to school for a couple of years to get a degree for a civilian job as an electrician when I decide to settle down and leave the military(I am planning WAY ahead) since I plan on joining the military for otherExhilarating jobs(Tanks and Stuff): BUD I AM A 27 YEAR OLD MASTER ELECTRICIAN LIVING IN MARYLAND. NEW YORK IS NOT THE ONLY PLACE AT THE MOMENT IT IS EVERYWHERE BOTH UNION AND NON UNION. I DECIDED TO COLLECT UNEMPLOYMENT AND I AM GOING TO ITT TECH FOR MY ENGINEERING DEGREE. THIS WAY THEY WILL BE ABLE TO PLACE ME WHILE I AM IN SCHOOL AND WITH THE ECONOMY THE WAY IT IS I WOULD SUGGEST YOU DOING THE SAME. THIS ROAD WILL OPEN ALLOT OF DOORS FOR YOU. I GOT ALL SCHOOL LOANS FROM FINANCIAL AID AND I DO NOT OWE A DIME UNTIL AFTER I GRADUATE. WITH YOUR EXPERIENCE AS A ELECTRICIAN AND THE ENGINEERING DEGREE YOU WILL HAVE THE POTENTIAL TO MAKE 100 - 200 THOUSAND A YEAR EASY. GOOD LUCK

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