CDCK8 AC contactor
- Ref Price:
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- Loading Port:
- China Main Port
- Payment Terms:
- TT OR LC
- Min Order Qty:
- -
- Supply Capability:
- -
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| Applicable Range |
CDCK8 AC contactor (hereinafter called contactor) is designed for circuit of AC 50Hz or 60Hz, rated operating voltage 220V,rated operating current 30A, used to make and break the circuit in motor of refrigeration compressor. |
| Applicable standard |
National Standard : GB 14048.4 GB 17885 |
| Normal usage and mounting conditions |
1. Ambient temperature: it works within -18℃～+50℃, and the average temperature no more than +35℃ in 24hours. |
| Technical Parameters |
| Construction Features |
1. Contactor is stereo and double breakpoint. Contact adopts silver base alloy, magnetic system adopts E type iron core, armature iron adopts electric and blunt iron. |
| Outline and Installation Dimensions |
- Q: Alright, so my mom called me up today crying saying her car wasn't working so i asked what the problem was, and she said a bunch of stuff that wasnt working on it all of a sudden today, so i told her, i'd be right over and take a look at it anyways the ABS light is on in the dash, the climate control isnt turning on, or lighting up, the rear window defroster isnt working, the back up lights dont work, or the running lights, so i was like ok easy fix, looked it up in the manual and all that stuff is on fuse 6i looked at the fuse, it didnt look busted, but i put in a new 10amp fuse just incase still didnt work tryed another new fuse, and it still doesnt work, so then i checked all the fuses, and they all look good! what else could it be!?!?! any help would be greatly appreachated!
- These cars were bad about ignition switches burning out from too much amp draw from the blower motor. Also, it has 2 fuse holders. One for the components, and one which is in between the battery and the fuse box that use to be called 'fuse links' and are now replaceable fuses or master fuses. All that you mentioned that doesn't work goes through the ignition switch except running lights.
- Q: and explain how they are accomplished ?use these :switchfuseconnecting wires conductorssbulb (load)power supply (source)
- A switch has an analog or digital gate that opens and closes the circuit. A fuse is usually an enclosed, thin, conductive filament which melts and opens the circuit when there is an over-current. Connecting wires are wire conductors (e.g., copper wire) that allow for electrical continuity between circuit element. Bulb (load) is a device which your circuit causes to function. It is always measurable resistive. Power supply (source) is the source of sustained electrical potential and therefore electrical power used to operate the circuit.
- Q: Hi everybody, I tried asking somebody to check the engine light on my car, they accidentally jumped the wrong cable which seems to have stopped my sony car stereo from working now. I checked the radio fuse and fuse behind the stereo and they all look fine. I am still able to eject and insert a CD into the system so that means that power is getting to it right? Is there a reason why the head unit doesn't come on?also Is it possible to fry your cars wiring with this mistake? But isn't that what the fuses are for? Is it just my head unit?thanks in advance!
- If this is a manufacturing facility stereo on a overdue mannequin vehicle that you simply purchased new, then there's a well risk that your trader gave you somewhat card that has a quantity on it. Sometimes they placed this within the packet that you simply walked out of the dealership with, and mostly they only placed it on your glove field. If you cannot discover this quantity, then there's a risk that the dealership can reset it for youfor a rate mostly. The simplest difficulty I see is if you have no energy in any respect to the stereo (clock is not on, no safeguard caution at the show, and many others.) then they'll have blown a fuse on your fuse pannel whilst the alternator used to be hooked up. Even worse, if the fuse the radio is connected to didn't blow whilst there used to be a surge find it irresistible used to be meant to, then your radio is also burned up. Either approach, it seems like you want legit support. Stop via your regional stereo save, or dealershipwhichever is extra handy. It does not price something to invite them a query. Good success.
- Q: I own a 1999 Chevy Malibu with a v6 engine. I had a problem before where the car had trouble maintaing stability and dropped way below .5 on the RPM. I fixed the problem but that presented another problem. The Air conditioning and windows won't start at most times. I checked the heat gage and found that whenever it reached past halfway on the heat meter, the problem presented itself again. this led me to believe that it is an electrical problem. the thing is, if the cooling fans aren't working at the same time the A/C and/or the windows, then what is the source of the problem? my question is what is a(n) component(s) that is linked to the windows, A/C, and the cooling fans besides the battery? Please help! THX!
- fuse box and relays and power source not battery but wires to the battery, switch's and or sensors, but they are odd things not work at the same time
- Q: I have a 14ft V-bottom Lund fishing boat. Use it for fishing and whatnot. It is a pretty basic boat, no previous wiring. Here is the setup I am thinking of doing.Batteries will be up front under one of my seats. I am going to parallel two 12Vs together, and then run 4 awg wire to the back of the boat. The positive side will have a 20amp fuse. I am going to run these into two ground bars, one for the positive side and one for the negative side. All my components i wanna run will then hook up to these ground bars as well. I have a trolling motor, navigation lights, and going to put a CD player in it as well. And maybe a cigarette lighter. Do i need to be worried about anything or will this work fine? Should have more fuses or run a fuse panel instead of the ground bars? Any help would be great. The wiring is expensive, and i dont want to ruin it somehow. Thanks.
- Ground bar is good for secondary circuits. Run a fuse block so each circuit is protected. If you have a good charging system you have no problems.
- Q: I have a friend with a 1993 Chevy Lumina and it will not charge the battery for some reason. He just replaced it with a new alternator and had it checked to make sure it was good at the store he bought it. When we jump it off with another vehicle it cranks fine and runs.but then when you drive down the road it will die if you step on brakes.then try to crank it.and it is deadwill not crank.like a dead battery. We had the battery all charged up as the battery is only 1 year old. Even bought a new battery. Why won't this thing charge? It there some kind of other electrical component keeping it from charging properly? What about fuses or some other regulator or realy somewhere? The engine on it by the way is a v-6 and a 3.1liter.
- There is an alternator fuse in the under hood fuse box . If that is not blown check the battery wire on the back of the alt for battery voltage .
- Q: I have a 2004 Jeep Grand Cherokee. A couple days ago the blower on the ac/heater stopped working (the light on the AC button doesn't come on either, which maybe connected to the blower) and along with that, my turn signals now won't work. The turn signal lights (both on the dash and outside) do work when the hazard button is on though. I've checked every fuse I could find underneath the dash and under the hood. Then yesterday it overheated, which makes me think the radiator fan won't run either, becuase if i keep it about 45mph it stays cool until I stop. Are these components tied together somehow? Is there a shared relay or something?
- Fans usually have their own relays my car has two. Completely different systems would not be connected. Look in your owners manual there may be another fuse box. My daughter's car has 4 fuse boxes.
- Q: i want use fuse 1A in my power supply circuit.i have never used a fuse before.so can anyone tell me how to use it and how should i place it in the circuit?
- Fuse should be placed first in line of the hot legclosest to the power source.
- Q: I have a problem. I have an outlet that has a computer with a 500w psu, stereo, printer, two monitors, and a external hdd. The problem is that the outlet fuse keeps blowing and I cant figure out why. Im pretty sure im not exceeding the maximum power usage and I have already replaced the outlet. Im worried that one of my components may be shorting and leaking current but I dont know how to check. I do know however that it has nothing to do with the electrical infrastructure of my house because my father is using the exact same outlet now for his computer and hes not experieced the outlet blow yet.How can i find out which component is cause the problem?
- Each component that you plug into the outlet should have an ID plate stating the watts (power) or the VA (volt-amps) [same thing]. The total should not exceed 1500 Watts. I would guess that the outlet (receptacle) is a standard two slot outlet (handles two plugs only). If it has the 2 straight flat blade (vertical) one shorter than the other, it is rated for 1500 watts (15amps of current). If both of these flat blade slots have a horizontal slot (notch) in the middle of each blade, it is for 2000 watts or 20 Amps of currant. It sounds like you are using a power strip of some sort (most are switched with a red pilot light and maybe even a 15 amp breaker as protection). Of course the wiring to that outlet should be 12/2 AWG wire and the fuse or breaker should be 20 Amps. Again the maximum load should be no more than 2000 watts total. (About the same as a space heater). If you total up the ID plates of each electrical appliance you have connected you will find that over a long period of time if you are running pretty close to that limit and the fuse or breaker gets tired. Heat is the culprit. You total up the watts of the hdd, two monitors and maybe the stereo (PA). I don't think your printer or external hard drive draw that much. Also you should have room around your equipment for ventilation. Good Luck - I hope this helps.
- Q: I was restarting my computer, and it started buzzing.It was coming from the mobo speaker, and now it won't turn on.On the front of it, the 3 and 4 lights are lit up.Can anyone help me?
- It sounds like your speaker fuse blew. Check to see if the fuse is still intact, if it is, then you may have fried a component inside the speaker. Time for a new one in that case. If the fuse blew, you can easily get a new fuse. I had the same problem with an older set of speakers. They were really good ones with a subwoofer and all. I heard the buzz for a few days, then, Pfffft! it went out all at once. Fried components inside the speaker and had to replace the whole speaker unit.
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CDCK8 AC contactor
- Ref Price:
-
- Loading Port:
- China Main Port
- Payment Terms:
- TT OR LC
- Min Order Qty:
- -
- Supply Capability:
- -
OKorder Service Pledge
Quality Product, Order Online Tracking, Timely Delivery
OKorder Financial Service
Credit Rating, Credit Services, Credit Purchasing
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