• Braking Disc Aimco 3257  Oe43512-35190 System 1
  • Braking Disc Aimco 3257  Oe43512-35190 System 2
  • Braking Disc Aimco 3257  Oe43512-35190 System 3
Braking Disc Aimco 3257  Oe43512-35190

Braking Disc Aimco 3257 Oe43512-35190

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Loading Port:
Qingdao
Payment Terms:
TT OR LC
Min Order Qty:
100 set
Supply Capability:
50000 set/month

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Product Details

Basic Info.

Certification:ECE

Type:Brake Discs

Material:Non-Asbestos

Position:Front

Export Markets:Global

Product Description

Brake disc 
Standard: E-MARK 
Origin: China 
Features: 
1) Hardness: 180-240HB 
2) Long service life 
3) 100% crucial dimension inspection 
4) 100% qualification 
5) Low noise 
Standard for casting is G3000. Standard for machining is SAE-J431. 
We use AIMCO# and OEM# and right now we have more than 1, 900 items that can be supplied to the aftermarket 

AIMCO#

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3102

3438

5361

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31163

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3104

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5362

5590

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31354

3106

3444

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3110

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3111

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5368

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3112

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5599

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31172

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3114

3457

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3116

3458

5372

5606

8988

31174

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3117

3459

5373

5607

8989

31175

31363

3118

3460

5374

5610

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31176

31364

3120

3462

5375

5614

8991

31177

31365

3122

3464

5376

5617

8992

31178

31366

3123

3466

5377

5618

8993

31179

31367

3124

3467

5378

5703

8994

31181

31368

3125

3468

5379

5704

8995

31182

31369

3126

3469

5381

5712

8996

31184

31370

3130

3470

5382

8101

8997

31185

31371

3132

3471

5383

8105

8998

31186

31372

3133

3472

5386

8106

8999

31188

31373

3134

3477

5387

8108

31000

31189

31374

3136

3479

5388

8109

31001

31192

31375

3137

3480

5389

8124

31002

31193

31376

3138

3482

5393

8141

31003

31197

31377

3140

3483

5394

8146

31004

31198

31378

3141

3485

5395

8147

31005

31199

31379

3146

3487

5396

8160

31006

31201

31380

3150

3488

5397

8163

31007

31202

31381

3151

3489

5398

8171

31008

31203

31382

3152

3497

5399

8173

31009

31204

31383

3153

3498

5401

8179

31010

31205

31384

3154

3502

5404

8190

31011

31208

31385

 

Q: I replaced the front brake lever on my ‘05 CBR1000RR and bled the brake system several times. I even purchased and used a professional bleeder kit with a hand pump. The brakes continue to gradually build up pressure until the pistons on the calipers are fully expanded and won‘t retract. Even when I crack a bleeder valve to relieve pressure, they still build up pressure over time until I bleed some more fluid. What should I do?????
check rotor run out and verify that there is no junk inside the caliper piston bores
Q: Also applies to bikes/motorcycles etc.They also have larger brake discs for that reason. Please try to use laws if possible.
Just think of the car in motion when you try and stop it. The car has a center of gravity and there is a torque from the loaded weight on front wheels about the CG and similarly there is an opposite torque from the loaded weight on the rear wheels. (The lever arm for each goes from the CG to the front point of contact on the road for the front torque and goes from the CG to the back point of contact on the road for the rear torque.) The sum of which is zero, of course. When you try and stop the car, new torques are added. The lever arm here is from the CG to the ground level, but both have the same rotation as each other, rather then opposite. The additional front torque loads the front of the car downward harder to the road, while the similarly rotating new torque around the CG reduces the loading in the rear (lifts it somewhat.) If you want more details, try the following page. I haven't read it, but did a quick search on google using a few terms I tossed at it and this result looks about right.
Q: they say that the front brake is like 70% and the back is 30 (or maybe 60/40) but anyways, which one would you normally use to slow down? i would guess the back one would be slowing down and the front would be for full stops? i dont own a bike yet, but of course, im curious and doing research.oh yea, if you slam on the back brake (the one near the footrest) your wheel wouldnt stop right? just slow down?
I use my front almost always, sometimes I don't hit the rear for weeks. The rear wheel CAN skid(stop) while the bike rolls at any speed , very scary. Try to do all of your braking before the turn, racers brake a lot but they're professionals.
Q: I have custom handle bars on my motorcycle and the brakes aren‘t decompressing properly, I suspect its because the fluid Reservoir sits at an angle instead of level like it was designed
So long as there is the correct amount of fluid in the reservoir, then it should not matter; maybe the brakes need to be bled ?
Q: i have been wanting to learn for a while now but i can only find one place and they wanna charge me $325 for classes! i dont know anyone who has a motorcycle so is there another other option? also, what do i need to get my motorcycle license (or whatever its called)
That $325 course will also serve as your practical test in most states. You would only need to pass a written exam for your licence. If you really can't afford the test, find someone with a dirtbike and a large open field. Do not try to learn on the open roadways! Motorcycling is an expensive sport.
Q: I‘ve wanted a motorcycle for a while now and I‘ve been doing a little research. I‘ve read a lot about engine braking but I‘m not entirely sure on what it is. Can someone please explain it to me and list the steps involved. Or a good link about it would be just fine.thanks
Good answer but not complete. Most cars have automatic transmissions in the US. (In Europe, you'd be hard pressed to find an automatic. Everyone knows how to drive a stick shift. European cars get their mileage by being small and light.) American cars are heavier and have automatic transmissions. These transmissions are designed to coast when you lift off the gas pedal. So if you want to slow down an American car, you use the brakes. A lot of driving is speed up; slow down; speed up again. If you lift up on an automatic, you don't slow down much. If you lift up on a standard transmission, you get that engine braking you're asking about because there is a one-to-one relationship between the motor and the drive wheels. I reckon you could find an automatic transmission on a motorcycle, but I've never driven one. With motorcycles, you tend to hold a constant speed with the throttle. Need to slow down a bit? Close the throttle a bit. Need to go a bit faster? Open the throttle a bit. BTW, my racing Bultaco had a compression release that worked very well- grab that little lever and the motor acted like a great brake, not locking up the rear wheel, but slowing you down pretty effectively. Don't know what the mileage was, but that was a track bike, and no one cared about mileage. When you ride a bike, you take off using the clutch. When you hit your cruising speed, you use the throttle to go a bit faster or a bit slower. You can use the throttle to go a lot faster, but that's a different matter all together. Be safe!! Many 18-wheel diesel trucks have jake brakes, a feature that releases compression in the head, making the downward stroke into a braking stroke.
Q: I am a resident of CA, and I want to learn how to ride a Motorcycle. I am fine with shift stick, and I have been riding once on a Motorcycle. I wonder what the procedure is like to get a M license.I also concern about my weight, I am only 12x lbs, and I am just 18yrs old, should I gain some weight, or that doesnt really matterAnd I always wanted a Yamaha R1, is that for racing only?
Take your written test for your motorcycle permit and then take the MSF Beginning Riders Course. That will give you the basic bike control skills. I believe CA is a state where passing the BRC entitles you to get your motorcycle endorsement without further testing. Then start with a bike without quite so much performance potential until you become proficient. My view is that a dual sport bike makes the best learner bike. You can practice your control skills off the road and out of traffic. At the same time, you can learn loose-surface handling skills, which will make you a better rider. Finally, a dual sport bike is easy to crash-proof so that the inevitable spills don't have to cost an arm and a leg. Better yet if they occur off the pavement. Once you have some experience, get the R1 if that is the bike that appeals to you.
Q: By beginner I mean driving on the streets. You can leave out safety gear like helmets and such as I‘ve got that covered as well as basic operation of a motorcycle. I‘d like to know stuff like: How do you pass a semi on the freeway? Will their be a large air gust like in a car when I do so? and What part of the lane should I get in to pass the semi? Tips on quick braking would be helpful too. As well as ant experiences you may have learned the hard way. My bike is an 1978 Suzuki DR 370 enduro.
No worries man, the only time a semi is gonna blow you off the road, is at high speedjust ride the outside of the lane, and you'll be ok. Like the other post said, dont brake into the corners, and use engine braking as well instead of just brakes and downshifting multiple gears, it will make your brakes last 5x longer.
Q: I‘ve taken the MSF class and everything, but don‘t have my own motorcycle yet. During the class we would only primarily be in 2nd or 1st gear the whole time, so here‘s what I don‘t understand.If I‘m in 3rd gear or so and I have a red light up ahead of me which I expect will turn green pretty soon, how do I use both the brakes and downshifting at the same time to slow down? I want to use my brakes so the brake lights turn on and the car behind me knows what I‘m doing, but at the same time, I don‘t want to just pull in the clutch and brake to a point of being too slow to be in 3rd gear to start moving again. Should I hold the back brake down while downshifting so my engine speed can match my road speed?
I'm an avid dirtbike rider, and I have to make quick stops frequently when im out there with friends. What you do, is your gonna shift down to first gear, then right after you pull the clutch back out, pull in the brake. Either brakes you use is fine. It's easy, and the MSF class will make it easier for you, too.

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