Auto Brake Pads foSemimetallic Asbestos Free for bus

Auto Brake Pads foSemimetallic Asbestos Free for bus System 1

Auto Brake Pads foSemimetallic Asbestos Free for bus

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Loading Port:: Qingdao

Payment Terms:: TT OR LC

Min Order Qty:: 100 set

Supply Capability:: 50000 set/month

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Packaging & Delivery

Packaging Detail:	Neutral Packing, ANTEC Packing, Client's Packing. Corrugated Box,Wooden case,Pallet.
Delivery Detail:	30-45days

Specifications

Brake pads
1)Asbestos, Non-asbestos, Semi-metallic, Nao, Ceramic, Carbon fiber 2)High noise abatement
3)Prompt delivery

Core Products:

We produce Asbestos, Non-asbestos, Semi-metallic, Nao, Ceramic, Carbon fiber brake pads .

Description:

Crossing Reference Number				Application
Crossing Reference Number				Application
FMSI	D1203-8323	FERODO	FDB1313	Scania Benz Man Iveco DAF
WVA	29087	WVA	29059
WVA	29106	WVA	29105
WVA	29062	WVA	29061
WVA	29060	WVA	29046
WVA	29045	WVA	29042
WVA	29202	WVA	29201
WVA	29179	WVA	29163
WVA	29109	WVA	29108
O.E.M.	0034201620	O.E.M.	0024204920
O.E.M.	082135100	O.E.M.	0044202220
O.E.M.	2992348	O.E.M.	1439324

Features:

1.Shimmed, chamfered and slotted to be consistent with OE Design

2.Positive mold process

3.Ultra-quiet performance, low dusting

4.Rubberized multi-layer shims

5.Responsive braking and longer pad life

6.Sensor wires included on those vehicles with OE sensor wires

7.QS9000, IS09002 and TUV certified

Advantages:

1. Production experience: 15 years

2. Items' availability: 1800 models of brake pads, our R&D Department can develop 10 new items per month. Presently the models under production cover European and American Applications, Japanese and Korean Applications, and heavy-duty applications for truck, bus and engineering vehicles etc.

3. Formulation: Asbestos, Non-asbestos, Semi-metallic, Nao, Ceramic, Carbon fiber

4.OEM Accepted: We can produce any your design.

5.Guarantee: 30,000- 60,000kms

6.Warranty:If there is any quality problem, we will supply the same quantity goods with free charge to you.

Auto Brake Pads foSemimetallic Asbestos Free for bus

Q:I always brake with my engine. I rarely use my brakes unless I use the engine and the brakes at the same time. When I use the engine for braking, I pull out the clutch a little to graze the engine and that helps slow down. Is that bad? I don t pull the clutch all the way out, just enough to slow me down a little and then I go down some gears and release the lever and slowly come to a stop. The reason I m asking is because lately I ve been hearing a tinking noise when I down shift and use engine braking. It s like i have something on the engine and every full rotation of the engine I hear the clink. It only does this when down shifting and using engine braking. I have an 08 gs500f with 12k miles now.: Most carbs have a bleeder or drain screw where you can at least empty it .

Q:ive been told that u can stop instantly by holing the clutch and brakes w/o downshifting, so when u just drive and slow down without stopping why do ppl still downshift? also if u stop for emergencies u hol the clutch and brakes, they say if u dont the engine will stall, what exactly does that mean?: I usually downshift when slowing down to a stop. I figure that if the chain stretches out from accelerating maybe I can undo that by deccelerating. That's flawless logic, right. Seriously though, in an emergency don't worry about downshifting, just grab the clutch with the brakes. In an anticipated stop I like to downshift through the gears, that way if I need to take off again while i'm still moving, I know I'm in a suitable gear. the engine will stall if you don't pull the clutch, because when the clutch is out, the engine is directly geared to the rear wheel. Stop the wheel, and the engine stops with it.

Q:a high performance road bike with disc brakes appeals to me, a bike I would not race and would put in a couple hundred miles a week witham I insane?: Isn't 20 a little extreme? It might mess up your brakes.

Q:Hi, the front brake on my seca II has been a bit spongy and today after a ride I noticed some oily stuff, which I'm assuming is brake fluid, on the hose near the front tire. I dont know anything about motorcycle brakes so I thought I'd look here for some assistance. The brake lines were bled about a week ago and even before that seemed a little spongy, although I never noticed any brake fluid on the lines. Do I just need to tighten something, replace the lines, or do I have a bigger problem? Any assistance would be appreciated. Thanks.: I would go with steel braided lines. will tighten up the brakes better than new

Q:I want to buy a new motorcycle but have owned used bikes for the past couple of years, will dealers let you test drive new bikes, are the bikes on the showroom floor ready for riding, ei do they have gas in the tank and oil in the engine. When buying a new bike what more can be done than just sitting on the bike in the showroom, i need to at least hear it if not ride it: It's getting harder and harder to find dealerships that let you take any bike, new or used, out for test rides. Even if you carry insurance it won't cut it. In a way you can't blame them. If you dump the bike they're stuck with a wrecked bike. Even if you get it repaired at your cost they won't be able to sell it for what they could have. I called a shop that dealt with strictly used bikes and in 3 months time they had something like 15 bikes get dumped on test rides. Finally they decided to put the halt to it. You are going to be hard pressed to find a place that will let you do it. What I've come across as the norm these days is that you actually have to go through the process of buying the bike in order to take it for a test ride. If you're out riding for 20 minutes and decide that this is not the right bike you can take it back and exchange it for something else. Either way you will be buying a bike that day! I'm not sure if that applies to new bikes or not. I was looking at used and that is what I was told from about 5 different dealers. Best bet is to find somebody selling a bike locally and see if they will let you take it for a short test ride. That way you'll find out if you like it or not without being obligated to buy it. Again, that will be up to the seller. Before I bought my Bandit the guy let me test ride it but I had to sign a make-shift waiver that said I was responsible for anything that happened to it. Bikes are ready to go home from the showroom floor. They probably won't have a full tank, but they will have all the proper fluids (oil, brake fluid, etc) in it. Most dealers will at least start the bike up for you so you can hear what it sounds and runs like. Other option is to keep an eye out for motorcycle shows in your area. Lot of times there will be factory support that comes out and allows demo rides for their lineup of motorcycles.

Q:A motorcycle‘s brake is designed to absorb 35 KJ/s. The motorcycle and rider have a mass of 280 KG and are travelling at 100km/h. How fast will they be going after 3 seconds of braking?[Solution plus Answer please]: Pinhole Leak Copper Pipe

Q:Today after I stopped for gas on my Suzuki Bandit 600, the front brakes locked up. After driving home with this condition the calipers were smoking, only way I could get the motorcycle home. I need some advice on what would cause this problem and what to look out for? I also took off the calipers and the cylinders seemed to compress without difficulty. I also inspected the master cylinder and it seemed to be pumping fine. One thing I noticed was that the left front rotor seemed to be slightly warped, but that could be due to the brakes being locked and me riding it home. Also I have never had any prior brake problems and they were working correctly the day before.: aluminum is probably being replaced with plastic and composite materials in such things as airplane bodies and equipment housing. copper's main use is in wiring, and there is no replacement for it (yet)

Q:For a motorcycle traveling at speed v (in mph) when the brakes are applied, the distance d (in feet) required to stop the motorcycle may be approximated by the formula d 0.05v^2 + v. Find the instantaneous rate of change of distance with respect to velocity when the speed is 42 mph.: Style, mostly. Rear tires are normally a little wider, due to the other thoughts expressed here.BUT The biggest reason for those really fat rear tires is just plain looks. A really fat tire just does not turn in the same way a narrow one does. It makes the rear sluggish. Power? Not the real reason at all. Most of your braking power isthe front wheel. Instead of putting down the power, it's doing the reverse - at the same rate or better. Many of the older cycles (and some of the newer) run the same size on both ends. HD touring bikes are a good example. There's others.

Q:I‘m going from stock ride height to cafe racer racer height or a little higher on my 1980 kz 440.: If they don't reach, yes. You should be able to measure it and find out.

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