Auto Brake Pads for Nissan Bluebird. Laurel 41060-01f87 D186-7110
- Ref Price:
-
- Loading Port:
- China Main Port
- Payment Terms:
- TT OR LC
- Min Order Qty:
- 100
- Supply Capability:
- 50000 /month
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Model NO.:Toyota HIACE Certification:TS16949, ISO9001, ISO9002 Type:Brake Pads Material:Semi-Metal Position:Front Width:145.4mm Height:56.9mm Thickness:15.5mm Oe:04465-25040 Fmsi:D1344-8455 Wva:21468 Trw:Gdb3059 Export Markets:Global Trademark:According to the customers′ requirements Packing:Neutral Packing/Genuine Packing/Customer′s Request Origin:Dezhou, Shandong, China HS Code:8708301000 Production Capacity:200, 000 Sets/Month We promise to provide the highest quality products for every customers! Basic Info.
Additional Info.
Product Description
You give me a chance, I'll give you a satisfactory service
Our Advantage
1> We have rich friction material formula system for every car series.
2> Most of our raw material are imported from Japan, German, France and Netherlands.
3> We have all the craft, process and technology in brake pads producing line in the world.
4> We have big bench test instrument to promise the braking performance of our products.
And every our new formula are tested by installing on our local taxi.
5> We can produce as your samples.
6> We can supply you with OE quality brake pads.
Detailed Specification
1. Non-asbestos disc brake pad
2. Material: Semi-metalic/ceramic
3. Certification: TS16949/ISO9001
4. Packing detail: Inner packing: Heat shrink bags/boxes; Outer packing: Cartons
5. Comfortable braking performance: No noise, no dust, less wear loss, less fade, better recovery
6. Minimum order quantity: 200sets
7. Port of shipment: Qingdao or Tianjin
8. Supply ability: 30000sets per month
9. Delivery time: 7 working days after receive the deposit
10. Payment terms: T/T
- Q: So I‘m thinking of buying this to practice on as I will be a new rider very soon ( and $1000 seems like a really low price for what I‘ve found). It‘s running good and only has 11,000 miles on it. The owner posted that it‘s a 2007 Lifan 250cc. So I tried looking up the specs to get some info on the bike but I couldn‘t seem to find anything So I‘m hoping that one of you guys can help me out and post a link to a website with details on it. Thanks in advance!
- It's a Qianjiang motorcycle, made in China. I think $1000 is a bit high for a bike that cost $2000, 7 years ago. I would make a lower offer. Model 250F Lifan Features: ?ENGINE: Air-cooled , V Twin Cylinder, Four Stroke ?Displacement: 248 CC ?TDI Ignition ?Max. Power: 18.5 HP/ 8000 RPM ?Cruise Speed 85 MPH ?Max. Torque : 17.5N.m/6000RPM ?Electric Start ?BRAKE SYSTEM Front: Disk Rear: Drum ?TRANSMISSION: 5-Speed Manual shift ?TIRES Front: 3.0-18 Rear:5.0-15 ?SUSPENSION Front: Hydraulic telescoping forks Rear: Hydraulic Spring ?FUEL: Unleaded gasoline ?Fuel consumption: 100 MPG Max. Load: 330 lb Dry Weight : 355 lb.
- Q: I‘m interested in knowing the manufacturing process of the motrcycle parts mentioned:piston,engine block, brake shoe. Also, a full equipment requirement for manufacturing these products and the dealers involved as well as the invoices for these equipment. It‘s not impossible but tasking
- they are usually castings, then machined to start off you'd need a furnace or something to heat a crucible up to high enough temperatures for the metal you are using to liquify you will need wooden mould's to make castings in casting sand once you've got the castings done you will need a milling machine and a metal work lathe to machine the parts from the castings, this isnt just something that can be done in a day, you need experience with furnaces and casting before starting as it can be very dangerous, to go out and buy the machinery required you'd be looking anything around ?13,000 for a milling machine the right size, and around ?2000 for a lathe the right size, if you just go straight onto using these machinery without any training you will definatly loose a finger or two, there not toys and a milling machine and lathe from somewhere like machine mart isnt any good for what your after as they are too light work and cannot cope with the bigger blocks to fabricate plus ontop of all of this you need the tools for the miller and lath and they can be anything up to ?200 each If your looking to do this as a one off then i wouldn't waste my time and money, but for a business id advise find somewhere what does engine rebuilds and try and get a job for a few years there then try and get a job manufacturing engines then build your machinery up gradually,
- Q: I bought the motorcycle bleeder kit with the pump to bleed my rear brakes. My issue right now is that there is no brake fluid coming out when I use the bleeder. The pump works fine because I can feel the suction. The reservoir has plenty of brake fluid. The valve is open. I don't understand why it's not working. This all started a week ago when I changed my brakes myself. I'm pretty sure I did everything correctly, and I don't understand why the brake fluid won't come out. Help please!
- when I put in braided stainless strains on my Kawasaki, I too had a very stressful time getting each and all of the air out. first of all, vacuum pumps artwork super for vehicle disc brakes, yet for motorbike disc brakes and previous form vehicle drum brakes, they pull air previous the brake piston seals and you in no way get each and all of the air out. I even have one and prefer something, there's a time and place for it yet no longer on motorcycles and vintage automobiles. first of all, with a hose on the bleed screw on the calipers, open the screw one after the different and compress the calipers one after the different till you have the pistons pushed each and each of how in. this might expell as lots air as obtainable. Then particularly loosen the banjo bolt on the mastery cylinder. conserving a brilliant wadded rag under it, loosen the bolt possibly a million/4 turn and pull the lever back each and each of how till fluid flows out of the banjo bolt. Tighten the bolt and then bypass all the way down to the T installation. With a sparkling rag (you do no longer desire to apply the previous rag and drip brake fluid onto the fender), do an identical with the different end of the line coming from the grasp cylinder. Then do the two one among the different fittings on the strains going to the calipers. Then flow all the way down to the calipers and with a hose on the bleed screw, open the screw somewhat, squeeze the brake lever and while you're conserving it back close the screw. launch the brake lever and repeat it over back till no bubbles seem and then bypass to the different one. this might desire to expell each and all of the air. If it nonetheless seems somewhat spongy, attempt parking the motorbike out in the nice and comfortable solar all day and notice if that helps. that's what it took to get each and all of the air out on my Kaw.
- Q: i was just wondering, the Kawasaki ER6n looks pretty cool. but is there anything better than it?
- Take it back,but DO NOT tell them,someone was playing with it,and pulled it apart,it shouldn't have disassembled that easily.
- Q: motorcycles
- Cheap is a relative term. They could all be cheap depending on whether or not the stone has been tumbled, cut, or remains unpolished. Also any of these could be cheap if you buy a small enough piece.
- Q: if yes, which brake to use rear or front and please do tell me about downshifting at corners. . .thanks:)
- Is it engaging but you have a broken half shaft? Do you have free wheeling hubs? Have you broken the dif?
- Q: I really hate engine braking because I lose a lot of speed, and it just sounds awful and it drags so much it makes me think I'm doing something wrong..so I was wondering can it be avoided? I've heard that if you rev match u can avoid it, true false?also, when shifting down what are the correct speeds for each gear on a regular 600 sportbike? I know they'r all diff, I'm just asking what are YOUR speeds.
- Just coming from a racer and street rider: Yes, matching the engine's rpm with the clutch in so when the clutch is out in the next gear lower will help reduce the drag significantly. It will smooth it out. Most people call this blipping the throttle on downshifts. Also try waiting another second or two, and let the RPM drop more. Downshifting into 5000 rpm is going to be more violent than downshifting to 2500 RPM. As for blipping the throttle on upshifts: No. On a 600 the clutch and shifting motion is so fast anyways this isn't necessary, also, clutch-less upshifting won't allow for this if you're racing or riding aggressively.
- Q: i bought a motorcycle recently and ive been looking it over pretty good today, i noticed when i pushed the bike across the property that i could hear a little bit of a rattle/jingle sound coming from the front rotor areas, i felt around and found that the brake pads (not the calipers just the pads) can be wiggled around pretty easily they dont move far but they can very very easily be moved 1/8 inch to maybe 3/16 this is the same on both rotors (dual disc front brakes) but is more loose feeling on one then the other. i know on my truck the pads dont feel sloppy like that but thats my only reference. is this normal ? if not what could be wrong with them that would allow for this looseness. the bike stops fine, some minor intermittent squeeking is heard when braking at low speeds but no other noises and no vibrations coming from front end. what do you think?
- When I once removed the spring loaded plate that holds the pads down from my old ZX7RR, it did the same thing, and the brakes were fine. Probably missing that part on your calipers. No biggie.
- Q: the motorcycle will not decrease speed by gentle application of brakes, I have to floor the rear brakes and grab the front brake calliper.is there something wrong with my brakes?
- I agree that Philip's down home wisdom is astounding, but Choppy made a very good point. Some older bikes needed an Arnold Swartzenegger type grip to stop. An older bike with a single front disc is going to need more grip than a double disc and an older, single piston double disc will most likely need more than a modern, multi-piston double disc setup. Sometimes brake shoes or pads will become glazed, especially when they have been used lightly for long periods of time. Once glazed, it takes tremendous pressure to get them to stop. The best thing to do is to remove them and use sandpaper to rough them up for better grip. there's also a big difference between pad material, especially in wet conditions. I've had pads that worked great when dry but in wet weather I could have dragged my feet and gotten stopped sooner. Old Honda front disc setups had the caliper mounted on a hinged affair that needed to be adjusted correctly. Old hoses on disc brakes get spongy with age and no amount of bleeding will firm them up. If you can mash the brake lever against the handgrip, you either have air in the system or the hoses should be replaced. On rear drum brakes, the problem can be as simple as the rod between the lever and brake needing adjustment. On rear disc setups, you may need to adjust the lever to that it sets higher and you don't have to bend your foot downward so far. Hose swelling on rear discs usually isn't as big of a deal because you normally have much less hose length compared to the front. Can you lock up your rear brake? If not, then you certainly do have a problem.
- Q: i am pushing dead air - it goes down to where it touches the muffler and has no holding power. i bought the motorcycle used a couple of weeks ago, it had just passed inspection. i drove it maybe 10 hours. i realized i was using the back brake too much to slow down - sometimes stopping without the front brake at all. do you think i screwed it up? i remembered briefly my teacher saying u have to use both brakes, or you‘ll either lock the front brake or destroy your back brake. of course, forgot all about this until i did it!! do u think that is what happened? will i need a new brake pad? can i make some adjustments to make it brake harder?
- The West Bank Seperation Wall The Gaza Refugee camp The Negev Dessert (the Israelis are currently in the process of evicting a 6,000 year old culture that dwells there.)
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Auto Brake Pads for Nissan Bluebird. Laurel 41060-01f87 D186-7110
- Ref Price:
-
- Loading Port:
- China Main Port
- Payment Terms:
- TT OR LC
- Min Order Qty:
- 100
- Supply Capability:
- 50000 /month
OKorder Service Pledge
Quality Product, Order Online Tracking, Timely Delivery
OKorder Financial Service
Credit Rating, Credit Services, Credit Purchasing
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