• Auto Brake Pads for BMW E90/E81/E87 Mini (34216767145 D1226-8345) System 1
  • Auto Brake Pads for BMW E90/E81/E87 Mini (34216767145 D1226-8345) System 2
Auto Brake Pads for BMW E90/E81/E87 Mini (34216767145 D1226-8345)

Auto Brake Pads for BMW E90/E81/E87 Mini (34216767145 D1226-8345)

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Loading Port:
Qingdao
Payment Terms:
TT OR LC
Min Order Qty:
100 set
Supply Capability:
50000 set/month

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Basic Info.

Model NO.:Toyota HIACE

Certification:TS16949, ISO9001, ISO9002

Type:Brake Pads

Material:Semi-Metal

Position:Front

Width:145.4mm

Height:56.9mm

Thickness:15.5mm

Oe:04465-25040

Fmsi:D1344-8455

Wva:21468

Trw:Gdb3059

Export Markets:Global

Additional Info.

Trademark:According to the customers′ requirements

Packing:Neutral Packing/Genuine Packing/Customer′s Request

Origin:Dezhou, Shandong, China

HS Code:8708301000

Production Capacity:200, 000 Sets/Month

Product Description

We promise to provide the highest quality products for every customers! 

You give me a chance, I'll give you a satisfactory service

Our Advantage

1> We have rich friction material formula system for every car series. 

2> Most of our raw material are imported from Japan, German, France and Netherlands. 

3> We have all the craft, process and technology in brake pads producing line in the world. 

4> We have big bench test instrument to promise the braking performance of our products. 

And every our new formula are tested by installing on our local taxi. 

5> We can produce as your samples. 

6> We can supply you with OE quality brake pads. 

Detailed Specification

1. Non-asbestos disc brake pad

2. Material: Semi-metalic/ceramic

3. Certification: TS16949/ISO9001

4. Packing detail: Inner packing: Heat shrink bags/boxes; Outer packing: Cartons

5. Comfortable braking performance: No noise, no dust, less wear loss, less fade, better recovery

6. Minimum order quantity: 200sets

7. Port of shipment: Qingdao or Tianjin

8. Supply ability: 30000sets per month

9. Delivery time: 7 working days after receive the deposit

10. Payment terms: T/T

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Q: i wanna learn the motorcycle willy.?
Best perfomed wearing nothing but leather chaps and a leather beenie while riding in the San Francisco GLT parade. Someone there will teach you.
Q: Why did not the motorcycle brake?
It is impossible not to brake
Q: i need to know if anyone know where i can find motorcycle parts(2002 suzuki sv650), it ws invovle in a accident and so like the brake pedal needs to be replaced and a few other things, but the pedals is something hard to find and at a reasonable price also even if its to pick it off a broke down motorcycle same brand of course.
This should cover it: US Dollars per ton (dry metric ton). (1) (2) (3) fines lump ore pellets contract year ________________________________________. 1976 | 22.70 43.80 dollars per metric ton 1977 | 23.00 42.80 1978 | 21.50 36.40 1979 | 23.30 39.90 1980 | 28.10 47.00 1981 | 28.10 43.00 1982 | 32.50 47.50 1983 | 29.00 39.00 1984 | 26.10 36.00 1985 | 26.50 36.00 1986 | 26.20 36.60 1987 | 24.50 36.70 1988 | 23.50 40.30 1989 | 26.50 47.30 1990 | 30.80 51.60 1991 | 33.20 52.10 1992 | 31.60 48.40 1993 | 28.10 33.00 43.60 1994 | 24.40 30.40 43.60 1995 | 26.90 33.30 49.10 1996 | 28.50 35.20 52.40 1997 | 28.80 35.20 52.10 1998 | 29.60 36.20 53.50 1999 | 26.90 32.20 46.40 2000 | 27.60 33.90 49.20 2001 | 28.90 35.10 50.10 2002 | 28.60 34.30 47.30 2003 | 31.40 37.30 52.00 2004 | 37.30 44.40 61.80 2005 | 64.00 79.00 115.50 2006 | 76.20 94.00 112.00 2007 | 83.40' Based upon news of 2006 Dec 22 deal between Baosteel and CVRD for one year starting April 1, 2007.
Q: I swapped the standard levers for shorty levers last week on my 2011 Kawasaki Ninja 400r (basically the same as a 650r with a smaller engine). I swapped them because I slipped on my driveway when I was moving the bike around and dropped it on it‘s side (almost no cosmetic damage besides the lever). I did this about 2 months ago, and finally got around to swapping levers last week. Everything was fine until I came out of work yesterday and my front brakes were locked on. I pulled the lever off and when I put it back on it was unlocked. I then left the office (a mistake). When I was on a major road the front brake came on again and hard. I was forced to stop in the center median (about 2 feet of room.), get off and pull the lever off again. Once again, this fixed the problem but now I am very nervous about getting back on my bike. Please help!Background: The bike has about 3000km on it, it was bought new this summer, and it is very clean (I don‘t think any dirt could have jammed the master cylinder).
Pulling the lever off would not help the situation unless the cause for the problem was the lever sticking. If you over tightened the pivot bolt, it could crush the bracket the lever rides in and cause it to stick. I would swap back to the original broken lever and see if the problem persists. if that solves it, look for a different replacement lever. If the master cylinder was stuck, the brakes would not release unless you pried the pads off the disk. Same with the caliper. Air in the system would cause brake drag all the time. It could be the shape of the lever too. If it doesn't meet the plunger in the master cylinder right, it could jam. compare the shape of the new lever to the old one.
Q: the only riding experience i have is i just completed a msf course.im 32,male,5‘7 170lbs.
I would undoubtedly go with the Fazer rather than R6 - the R6 is the most racy but FZ6R several reasons. Its newer, a no brainer, a 3 year old R6 may have been hammered unless ridden by a nun, they are hard not to ride fast. Two, until you find your feet there is the chance of a minor spill, I had a few when starting off even despite 15 years MX experience. The plastic on an R6 is EXPENSIVE. The engine in the fazer is based on the same model R6 so still a great performer, possibly cheaper to insure? Don't get me wrong, an R6 is a superb bike, and having screamed one around a race track for a couple of days I was awed by the performance, handing and sheer fun, however having seen a lot of newbies spread all over the tarmac due to inexperience I would start slow and move up.
Q: Does the motorcycle brake pinch the clutch?
Do not pinch clutch directly depress the brake, due to more than the engine to contain the role of resistance increases, so the braking distance will be shorter, which is the use of the principle of engine braking. When the motorcycle brakes, do not pinch the clutch directly step on
Q: upshifting and downshifting, how to know when to shift, how to shift when slowing down while applying the brake?
The thing that drove me crazy was people always say you'll feel wen you need to shift. When you dont know what your doing that doesn't help lol. Basically as a starter just to get a hang of things figure you can be in first up to 10 or 20, then second, when you hit 30 third, 40 fourth, and 50 and higher fifth gear. This isn't exactly how you should be shifting but its not going to ruin the bike and it will work. Once you learn to ride you'll start to get the feel of when your engine needs to shft. Basically when you feel the engine beginning to work hard shift up to the next gear. One other thing that confused me when I first started riding was the position of the shifter. I guess I though like a car each gear had its own slot where the shifter would go. I guess I thought second gear was a few inches higher than first, third a few inches higher than second, etc if thats makes sense. Basically its like a ratchet the shifter stays in the same place even though you are shifting diff gears.
Q: I previously posted a question about my front brakes squeaking but have since figured out that it is my rear brakes. Is this something I need to have checked out immediately? Are there things I can check?1983 Honda Magna V45
If Wendell Holmes' answer isn't correct - and it's entirely plausible, so it may well be - I'm not familiar with the XXV125, but from what you've said the only thing I can think of is that the gear shift lever - ie; the pedal you change gear with, for the benefit of any non-bikers reading this - is interfering with the brake pedal, causing the brake to be operated when the shifter is any position other than first. This could be because either shifter or pedal is bent, though why it should work for a short while after being stripped is a bit of a mystery. If you can't afford to replace both parts or don't feel confident in doing so (as it's a small bike I'm assuming you've not been biking long), the best plan will be to take it to a bike mechanic or Yamaha dealership and see if they either confirm this or tell you what else could be wrong. Good luck and safe riding!

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