Auto Brake Pads for BMW E60/E65/66/E70/E71 34216761286

Auto Brake Pads for BMW E60/E65/66/E70/E71 34216761286

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Loading Port:: Qingdao

Payment Terms:: TT OR LC

Min Order Qty:: 100 set

Supply Capability:: 50000 set/month

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Basic Info.

Model NO.:Toyota HIACE

Certification:TS16949, ISO9001, ISO9002

Type:Brake Pads

Material:Semi-Metal

Position:Front

Width:145.4mm

Height:56.9mm

Thickness:15.5mm

Oe:04465-25040

Fmsi:D1344-8455

Wva:21468

Trw:Gdb3059

Export Markets:Global

Additional Info.

Trademark:According to the customers′ requirements

Packing:Neutral Packing/Genuine Packing/Customer′s Request

Origin:Dezhou, Shandong, China

HS Code:8708301000

Production Capacity:200, 000 Sets/Month

Product Description

We promise to provide the highest quality products for every customers!

You give me a chance, I'll give you a satisfactory service

Our Advantage

1> We have rich friction material formula system for every car series.

2> Most of our raw material are imported from Japan, German, France and Netherlands.

3> We have all the craft, process and technology in brake pads producing line in the world.

4> We have big bench test instrument to promise the braking performance of our products.

And every our new formula are tested by installing on our local taxi.

5> We can produce as your samples.

6> We can supply you with OE quality brake pads.

Detailed Specification

1. Non-asbestos disc brake pad

2. Material: Semi-metalic/ceramic

3. Certification: TS16949/ISO9001

4. Packing detail: Inner packing: Heat shrink bags/boxes; Outer packing: Cartons

5. Comfortable braking performance: No noise, no dust, less wear loss, less fade, better recovery

6. Minimum order quantity: 200sets

7. Port of shipment: Qingdao or Tianjin

8. Supply ability: 30000sets per month

9. Delivery time: 7 working days after receive the deposit

10. Payment terms: T/T

Auto Brake Pads for BMW E60/E65/66/E70/E71 34216761286

Q: i just picked up a motorcycle handbook from my local DMVand i read it all the way throughtwo questions still are lingering1. it says lane sharing is illegal, but what about lane splitting? i know it‘s legal in CA, but what are the limitations on it?2. it talks about parking a little, like it has to be 90 degrees to the curb, but when im at my local supermarket, i see motorcycles parked right up next to the automated door.so are motorcycles free to park in places other than the marked stalls in the parking lot?thank you for reading and/or answering: I didn't know lane sharing was against the code. Thanks for the info. As far as lane splitting, that's one of the reasons I ride! If you're on the freeway, never lane split above 50. As a matter of fact, 50 is kinda fast. I don't lane split unless traffic is moving real slow. The rule of thumb is to never split faster than 5mph the speed of traffic. And don't split any lane except the left two. There's less lane-changing going on over there and they expect splitters. Air cooled bikes have to keep air flowing over the engine, I think that's why it's tolerated by law enforcement. Water pumpers have the little electric fan, so they're no different than cars. All my bikes are old air cooled iron, so for me, splitting is essential. Also, on surface streets, if you're going to split traffic to get to the limit line at a red light, hang back and pay attention so when the light goes green you have some runway. If you pull all the way up to the first car at the limit line, you KNOW the guy's going to race you across the intersection. Hang back and slingshot past the front cars and pick a lane.

Q: What is the drum brake ah there is no detailed description of the motorcycle knowledge site can tell me: The brakes on the inside of the brakes are the position of the brake torque. In the case of obtaining the same braking torque, the diameter of the brake drum of the drum brake device may be much smaller than the brake disc of the disc brake. Therefore, large vehicles for heavy loads can only be equipped with drum brakes in a limited space for wheels to obtain a strong braking force.

Q: What is the brake on the left hand of the motorcycle?: The left hand brake of the scooter is the rear brake, the right hand is the front brake. With a manual clutch of the left hand is the clutch, the right hand is the front brake, the right foot is the rear brake

Q: I got a shadow 750 and was wanting to put a side license plate adapter with a brake light attached and do away with the rear stock turn signals and big brake light. What are the laws regarding turn signals on a bike, do I just need to give hand signals?: fuel treatments should be used .yes they work should be used every few months more so in winter months things like stop leak or stuff that say it repairs no things prevent problems doesnt repair them

Q: Bikes can be one‘s with cylinder capacity in the range of 100cc to 2500cc: Motorcycle braking is 70% front brake and 30% rear brake. There is no way to use more braking power in the rear. All it would do is lock it up. And standard rear brakes can do that already. Which might lead into a discussion of the benefits of computerized ABS brake systems. Which some say are really designed for those who really do NOT know how to use their brake correctly in the first place.

Q: I PUT A SET OF FRONT BRAKES ON MY MOTORCYCLE, IS IT NORMAL FOR THEM TO WHINE WHEN STOPPING?: This depends on a few factors. - Installation - Compound If they were installed and were not done properly it could be. However, if you upgraded your pads to a high metallic compound (popular with high performance pads) you will hear anything from a whining to a squeaking and sometimes metal contact sound at lower speeds. Brand new pads also have to sit themselves in and basically conform to the unique shape of your rotors. Every rotor has small grooves from the wear and tear of the pads and the rotor. So new pads take a little while to seat in before they conform to that shape. In the mean time things like fine dust can get in the grooves and cause squeaking. Try squirting water up by the pad and rotor to clean them off, let it try and go for a ride to see if it is any better. You could also have something like a small piece of cinder rock stuck in there which would cause it as well. Otherwise the other factor to look at will be to make sure that the brakes were installed properly. If they seem to stop normal, you see no strange grooves and the pad is sitting flush with your rotor then I would not assume that it is a concern. It sounds far more likely you went to a high performance pad, or, are suffering from a fine dust and brake pad wear in period. There are also non-queak compounds you can buy from performance shops to help with the squeaking if it is a high performance pad. Sometimes it doesn't eliminate it, but helps. (Only helps if that is the case)

Q: A motorcycle is moving at 30 m/s when the rider applies the brakes, giving the motorcycle a constant deceleration. During the 3.0 s interval immediately after braking begins, the speed decreases to 15 m/s. What distance does the motorcycle travel from the instant braking begins until the motorcycle stops?: The motorcycle takes three seconds to decelerate to half speed. Its deceleration is constant, So it should take 6 seconds to stop. The Deceleration is a change of 30 m/s in 6s, so 30/6 5 m/s/s. Because it is decelerating, the acceleration is -5m/s/s. Use the motion formula S(U*T)+(0.5*A*T^2) (S Equals U times T Plus Half Times A Times T Squared) Where: S Distance Traveled (The answer we're looking for) U Original Velocity (30m/s) T Time (6s) A Acceleration (-5m/s/s) Put in values and solve: SUT+0.5AT^2 S(30*6)+(0.5*-5*6^2) S180+(-2.5*36) S180+-90 S180-90 S90 Meters The Answer is 90 Meters

Q: I went to change the brake pads on my motorcycle, since they had not been replaced in a while i needed to depress the pistons in them to fit the new ones over the rotors, but now that they are back on they will not engage, this is happening on both the front and rear. i stood there for hours pressing them hoping to maybe prime them or something. all the reservoirs are full, what do i do?: Make or model would help. How did you depress the pistons? Did you clean the pistons before you depressed them? Is there any feel of pressure at the lever? Are the hoses bulging at all? Did you route the hoses correctly when you reassembled the calipers? Did you open the hydraulic circuit, replace the fluid or anything? Brakes can take a few pumps to reposition the pads against a disc – but not hours. Caliper rebuilds are fairly simple – a new bleed nipple, couple of seals and piston(s), so are master cylinder rebuilds – however if you have any doubts a professional would be a better choice – brakes are quite important.