• API Cast Steel Lift Check Valve Size 750 mm System 1
  • API Cast Steel Lift Check Valve Size 750 mm System 2
  • API Cast Steel Lift Check Valve Size 750 mm System 3
API Cast Steel Lift Check Valve Size 750 mm

API Cast Steel Lift Check Valve Size 750 mm

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Loading Port:
Shanghai
Payment Terms:
TT OR LC
Min Order Qty:
10 pc
Supply Capability:
100 pc/month

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API Cast Steel Lift Check Valve 150 Class

The features of Cast Steel Lift Check Valve

Bolted Bonnet;Swing and lift disc;Metallic seating surfaces.

Body and Bonnet Connection of Cast Steel Lift Check Valve:

The body and bonnet of Class150~Class900 check valves are usually with studs and nuts.And the body and bonnet of Class1500~Class2500 check valves are usually of pressurized seal design.

Body-To-Bonnet Joint of Cast Steel Lift Check Valve:                                                                                                         

Stainless steel + flesible graphite wounded gasket is used for Class 150 and Class 300 check valve;Stainless steel + flexible graphite wounded gasket is used for Class 600 check valve,and joint gasket is also optional for Class 600 check valve;Ring joint gasket is used for Class900 check valve;Pressurized seal design is used for Class 1500~Class 2500 check valves.

Seat of Cast Steel Lift Check Valve:

For carbon steel check valve,the seat is usually forged steel.The sealing surface of the seat is spray welded with hard alloy specified by the customer.Renewable threaded seat is used for NPS<10 check="" valves="" and="" welded="" on="" seat="" can="" be="" also="" optional="" if="" being="" requested="" by="" the="" customer.welded="" is="" used="" for="" nps="">12 crbon steel gate valves .Forstainless steel check valve,integral seat is usually adopted ,or to weld hard alloy directly integrally.Threaded or welded on seat is also optional for stainless steel check valve if being requested by the customer.

Parameter of Cast Steel Check Valve:

Standard Criteria

 ASME/ANSI/API customize 

Pressure Rating

 150 Class  300   Class  600 Class  900 Class  1500   Class  2500 Class customize 

Valve Size

 50 mm  65   mm  80 mm  100 mm  125 mm  150   mm  200 mm  250 mm 300 mm  350   mm  400 mm  450 mm  500 mm  600   mm  650 mm  700 mm 750 mm

 2 inch  2.5   inch  3 inch  4 inch  5 inch  6   inch  8 inch  10 inch  12 inch 14   inch  16 inch  18 inch  20 inch  24   inch  26 inch  28 inch  30   inch customize 

Actuator

 Automatic customize 

Connection

 Butt Welding  Flange   RF  Flange RTJ customize 

1-Body Material

 A216   WCB  A351-CF8  A351-CF8M customize 

2-Seat ring

 A351-CF8  A351-CF8M  A105+13Cr  Tool   Steel+A105 customize 

3-Disc

 Tool Steel+A216 WCB  A351-CF8M  A351-CF8  A216   WCB+13Cr customize 

4-Arm

 A351-CF8  A216   WCB  A351-CF8M customize 

5-Nut

 A194   8M  A194-8  A194 2H customize 

6-Arm pin

 A182-F6a  A182-F316  A182-F304 customize   

7-Yoke

 A351-CF8  A351-CF8M  A216   WCB customize 

8-Bonnet nut

 A194   8M  A194-8  A194 2H customize 

9-Bonnet bolt

 A193-B8  A193-B8M  A193-B7 customize   

10-Bolt

 A193-B7  A193-B8  A193-B8M customize   

11-Gasket

 graphite+304  graphite+316 customize   

12-Bonnet

 A216   WCB  A351-CF8M  A351-CF8 customize 

13-Eye bolt

 A181 customize 

Design Standard

 API 6D  BS   1868 customize 

Connection Standard

 API 605  ASME B   16.25-2007  ASME B 16.47A  ASME B 16.47B  ASME   B 16.5  MSS SP-44 customize 

Test Standard

 API 598  API   6D customize 

Face to Face

 ASME B 16.10 customize   

Pressure-temperature ratings

 ASME B   16.34-2004 customize 

Wall thickness dimension

 API 600  BS 1868

 

FAQ of Cast Steel Check Valve:

Q1:I can’t find the type of steel check valve which I need. what can I do?

The chart above only lists out some common composition of steel check valve parts.We may provide other different parts material composition according to the customer's request or the actual valve working condition.

Q2:Which certification do your products pass?

  Our products are in accordance with ISO 9001ISO 14001API 6AAPI 6DTS CEAPI607/6FA/BS6755.


Q: I have a 87 cbr600, consumes oil at a considerable rate. Took the engine out of the frame and disassembled cylinder head, block and pistons and found there is a thick layer of cooked-on oil over all sixteen valves. I figured the oil consumption was due to bad rings, but could it have been the valves?
Valve guides and seals will, but not the valves. Bad valves will lower compression on the engine and reduce performance but won't burn oil. The deposits on the valves are most likely from oil burning, getting to the heads past the piston rings. The rings aren't hard to change if you already have the head off... pull the cylinder block off and the pistons will be accessible. Getting the block back on can be tricky as you have to get the rings compressed. Might take two or three people. Good luck. Reassembly is harder than disassembly, but you probably already know that. Make sure you get the cam marks exactly right!
Q: I am being sent for a level 2 Ultrasound Thursday because my previous US showed one of the babies valves was enlarged. She said all 4 chambers were there but she was very vague on what this means. Care to shed some light?
?UPDATE? We went to the US today and the heart was 100% HEALTHY!! There was nothing wrong with any anatomy of baby girl. The doctors there said they are completely confused as to why my Doctor would tell me the baby might need heart surgery when she wasn't even 100% on the issue and even if it was due to positioning like she 'claimed' at first, then a Level 2 US wouldn't be necessary. I'm just so grateful and thank God that my baby is ????!
Q: It is burning oil, so that means oil is getting into the combustion chambers....but im not exactly sure which piece has gone bad? or for that matter what the valve guides are in the first place. Could the lifters have gone bad too? Can someone tell me what piece is most likely the cause for the oil leak into the chambers and then a price of how much it would cost to have it fixed. When i start the car it blows a puff and then settles down and then when im at a stop light and push the accelerator it blows a puff and then more or less settles down...sometimes it keeps going for a while. My mechanic put an additive in the oil called stop the smoke or something, and i know that that causes the seals to expand...and it has helped. So. I need someone to give me an overall diagnosis and price range. My mechanic is reluctant to have me do the work, im guessing cause its expensive...but i would rather pay 1000 dollars then buy a new car.
a valve guide is basically a round tube that is press fit ito the cylinder head, the stem of the valve rides up and down inside this sleeve as the valve opens and closes. the stem seal fits on the spring end of the valve guide and seals against the valve stem keeping oil out of the guide [and running down the stem and getting into the combustion area when the valve opens] valve stem diameter and guide bore dimensions are close fitting but the stem is always smaller than the bore [very little oil is available to lubricate this area under normal circumstances] so both the guide and stem can wear [the guide is of a much softer material than the valve so it does most of the wearing] high mileage engines can have very egg shaped guide bores allowing stem movement which if not corrected will ruin a new set of stem seals in short order i hope that i have been clear on this but if you have more questions please ask,as there are several very knowledgeable people who answer volvo questions at this site. NOTE: the valve seat is concentric with the valve guide bore. due to machineing tolerances when the guide is replaced the valve seat will no longer be concentric with the new bore and the valve will not seal properly so the seats will have to be re-machined off of the new guide and then the valve faces will have to be machined to the proper fresh sealing angle of the new seat [hence a complete valve job as far as costs go if memory serves this job pays approx 9 hrs. labor,.plus machine shop work.[generallywith new guides seals resurfacing and a pressure test and cleaning about 400+ or- and related gaskets seals fluids timing componants i suspect the final bill may be above 2 grand but if you kept up with oil changes and the bottom end is't hurt your car is well worth this expense
Q: Since the valve drain is usually open, I am wondering if placing the cap on the drain has made my water heater dangerous.
You said it is the plastic drain valve. The pressure relief valve definitely is not made of plastic. A cap on the plastic drain valve at the bottom of the tank is not dangerous. If the bronze relief valve near or on the top of the tank has a drain pipe on it and that is the one you capped then, yes, you need to remove the cap and replace the valve as soon as possible.
Q: We live in a four story sixteen unity apartment building. There are two radiators in our apartment. The on in the living room is large and we can't turn it on with out water coming out of the little valve on the end, which I am assuming is there to release excess pressure. It doesn't matter if we leave it on for an hour or two days—water still comes out. It has warped the wood below it.How can I stop this? I would really like to have heat on both sides of my apartment.Thanks!
Melvin S is correct. But check to see if the valve is closed first.
Q: Water has been seeping out of the sprinklers closest to the anti-siphon valve. Water seeps out of the sprinkler even when the anti-siphon valve is manually closed and not connected electronically. I opened up the anti-siphon valve to inspect the diaphragm, but there is no debris nor it was damaged. To be sure, I switched the diaphragm chamber of the two anti-siphon valves (a suspected leaky one and another good working one), but leak persists from the same sprinklers. I think the leak is from the (float?) rubber seal at the bottom of the stem closing the inlet valve. My anti-siphon is a Hardie (or Irritrol) model 311A series.1) Is my troubleshooting and logic correct? What other components could have contributed to the leak described? 2) At what scenario will water be flowing out of the anti-siphon cap?3) How can I determine if my anti-siphon valve has a vacuum breaker? What is a vacuum breaker good for?4)Which brand makes the most reliable anti-siphon valve?
If the antisyphon valve is not leaking maybe you should focus attention on the main valve ( assuming it is a solenoid valve) to see if it closes completely. Another thing, if the irrigation zone is on an incline then the water in the system will drain to the lowest point. Sometimes it drains slowly causing the impression of a leaky feed valve.
Q: hii have just found out i have a genetic disease called multi valve prolapse but i want more info about itwhat are the symptoms? can it kill me? any info will help!!thank you
Do you mean Mitral valve prolapse? The mitral valve helps blood on the left side of the heart flow in one direction. It closes to keep blood from moving backwards when the heart beats (contracts). Mitral valve prolapse is the term used when the valve does not close properly. It can be caused by many different things. Most people have no symptoms, but some people have chest pain, a rapid pulse, awareness of heartbeats, migraine headaches, fatigue, and dizziness. In a small number of cases, the prolapse can cause blood to leak backwards. This is called mitral regurgitation. Mitral valves that are structurally abnormal can raise the risk for bacterial infection. Some forms of mitral valve prolapse seem to be passed down through families (inherited). Mitral valve prolapse has been associated with other genetic disorders.
Q: Also, Is a pneumatic control valve an ATC or an ATO; is it a FO or FC valve?
THere are a large number of types of valves; ball, gate, globe, needle, etfc. I suggest you look up valves on wikipedia. ATO = air to open; the valve has a pneumatic operator with a spring returning it to closed when the air pressure is removed ATC is the reverse FO = fail open; if the actuator fails the valve will be open. Actuators are made ATO, ATC, and air to move either way [no spring]. The latter would be your FLP. Control valves, by which I mean a proportioning valve or valve with a variable open area, with a 3-15 psi control input, are usually ATO.
Q: i have seen the wrting M/T on some valve covers and was wondering what that meant
THOSE ARE THE INITIALS OF THE LATE GREAT MICKIE THOMPSON, WHO HAS PROVIDED US WITH MANY AFTER MARKET PARTS, LIKE THE M/T 50, WIDEST TIRE FOR STREET YOU CAN FIND. USED TO LOVE SMOKING THOSE ALL THE WAY DOWN THE STREET.
Q: What's the safety valve (relief valve) type?
The four common types of pressure relief are the spring loaded valve, the rupture disc, the balance bellows spring loaded valve and the pilot operated relief valve.

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