AKS Series Self-Priming Peripheral Pump
- Ref Price:
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- Loading Port:
- Ningbo
- Payment Terms:
- TT OR LC
- Min Order Qty:
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- Supply Capability:
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- Q: I installed a new water pump on a Cherokee straight-6 engine, the upper radiator hose is not heating up and the engine is starting to make a funny noise. The thermostat is new and was working fine before. The coolant reservoir is full and no more coolant will drain to radiator / engine. Anyone know why waterpump is not circulating coolant?
- Apparently these guys made a 26-minute video detailing a water-pump swap on a Grand Cherokee. They are both 4.0's, so the procedure is the same.
- Q: i installed a new pump don't know how to increase water pressure and to what what pressure it should be set
- This is very simple i would sugest the pressure to be set betwene 60 to 70 NO MORE THAN 70. 1. turn off power to pump (ether the circut breaker or a switch near the pressure switch) you dont want to weld the wrench to the switch. 2. remove the cover to the pressure switch its self (usly one #2 phillips screw) 3. now you will see 4 wires under some sloted screws nearest to the front of the switch, behint that is 1 or 2 bolts with a spring and a nut. 4. if you see 2 bolts you will want to turn the nut on the larger one to the right. you will want to tighten it about 1 to 2 full turns. (the same goes if there is only one bolt also) 5. now open the valve that is on the tank untill you here the switch click. then close the valve. 6. turn the power back on tio the pump and watch the pressure gauge on the tank. i DO NOT RECOMEND MORE THAN 70PSI. 7. if it goes over the pressure you want repete steps above exept loosen the nut in about 1/4 to 1/2 turns untill you reach the desired pressure 8. if it does not reach your desired pressure then you do the same thing exept tighten the nut in 1/4 to 1/2 turns untill you attain your desired pressure. 9. when the pressure is reached, replace cover so you dont risk rusting the contacts. if you need more help feel free to email me. and i will assist you in any way that i can.
- Q: I have an 8 gpm pump at a depth of 170 ft, I am pumping the water 2000 ft in a 1 1/4 inch line. I need to know how many gallons per minute I am getting.
- You have already stated the volume as 8 gpm. There is an elevation head of 170 ft, a friction loss of 1 1/2 ft/100 ft at 8 gpm for and additional 30 ft. of head, You did not state what the service pressure was supposed to be at the delivery point. so the total head required of the pump will be 200 ft. or more if a pressure is desired. Add 2 1/3 ft of head for each psig of desired pressure. Because of hydrodynamic design limitations of the pump impellers, you will never find a centrifugal water pump for sale with that low volume combined with that high head. You will need a positive displacement water pump having an approximately 8 -10 gpm capacity at 200 ft head (87 psi) or more, depending on that pressure. You cannot lift water farther up than about 25 feet with any kind of pump because of the thermodynamic properties of water under negative suction pressure. Deep well pumps are lowered down into the well and submerged. The well may have been drilled 170 feet deep, but the water will probably have risen up into the casing. The actual depth of water may be much less than 170 ft. That will need to be measured You will need 3/4 horsepower as is and 1 hp with 20 psig of pressure at the delivery point.
- Q: water pump contents
- That is your first problem. Once that works, turn it with a 1/2 in wrench and clamp the hose.
- Q: i want to hook a pressure booster pump to a well pump so i can have some pressure out of the well, is this doable?thanks!
- The okorder The way I see this is the booster system delivers approx. 45 psi in the water line (inside the home) and uses a check valve to hold that pressure. You turn the faucets on and the system's sensor detects the drop and kicks back in.
- Q: Was I supposed to lube the water pump or what. I really don't know what it could be making the noise now. But it goes away after about 5-25 seconds of running, what could it be?
- It is the belt slipping on the pully before the material warms up from friction to make it grip better. The squeeling sound is the pully and the belt slipping as the motor is warming up. It is nothing to be concerned about and it is definately NOT your water pump. If the sound bothers you, as it would me, then goto your local auto parts store and buy a cheap can of belt stop slip. It costs less then five bucks and it is a sticky substance like stickum or sapp in a spray can that will help your belt to better grip the pullies and it will stop your problem. What you want to do is this, wait until your car is cold and have someone start the car while you are standing over the motor ready to spray the can onto the belt. You will instantly hear the noise quit as soon as you squirt the can onto the moving belt. Once the engine starts and the belt is moving, just hold the spray down for 3 seconds and it will coat the underside of the belt and your problems will be over. You might want to try to spray an area that will allow the spray to coat the underside of the belt, i.e. the part that comes in contact with the pully. You only want to spray the belt while the engine is running and the belt is moving. That way your 3 second squirt will coat the entire underside of the belt as it moves under the spray can. Kinda like oiling a bicycle chain while moving the pedals and spinning the chain while holding the can in one place as opposed to oiling the chain while the chain is stationary and trying to cover the whole chain. It is impossible to reach all the places becuase some will be hidden behind other parts. That is why you want your motor running while you squirt the belt with the can of sticky belt stop squeel. It will stop squeeling immediately as soon as you spray it on the moving belt. The guy at Pep Boys or Advanced auto parts should know what you want.
- Q: I have a quot;Rainbow Lifeguard Quiet One 6000external pump that I would like to use on a new chiller for my tank. The pump is rated at a little over 1500 gallons per hour. I'm debating between a couple of chillers, one that has a max flow rate of 1300 gph and another that has a max of 960.I know that you are only supposed to put any valves on the outflow side of the pump and lessening the flow to 1300 from 1500 doesn't seem like it would be that big of a problem, but I was curious it cutting it back to 960 would be hard on the pump in the long run. (I'm leaning towards the bigger chiller as although it may be overkill for my tank, it would let me have a little more water circulation.)
- I wouldn't restrict it more than about 10% or so personally. I would ask you to think about this: The rated flow rate on a pump is under perfect operating conditions and is usually a mathmatical model that cannot really be acheived in the real world. Your pump probbaly is several gallons per hours behind that. If the tank is on a stand and the pump on the floor, the head pressure alone may slow it to 1300 or below. Additional tubing, especially hard angles will further reduce the flow. I would suggest you get a flow meter ( you can probably borrow one from a plumber for a day) and test the actual flow rate in your set up. Remember that the chiller will further reduce the flow itself. Odds are good you are closer to the needed 1300 than you think. You can also install a small diverter valve in the line. Basically splitting the output from the pump into two lines. One can carry about 1250 GPH and the other the rest which it just returns to the tank unchilled. Hope that helps MM
- Q: i am trying to set up a small aqaurium (about 25 gallons) and i am looking for a water pump that will flow water through the aquarium for a period of time and then shut off, and do that like every hour or so. is there such a thing? a water pump with a built in timer so its not running constanly but only every so often? it doesnt need to move alot of water, but i only want it to pump maybe once every hour. thanks for the help
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- Q: We had a leak in our car and took it to get checked out. They said it is the water pump. Also that it would be around $650 to replace. I know nothing about cars. Is this necessary? and does the cost sound about right? We are going on a 3 hour trip one way this weekend. Would it need to be done before then? thanks guys!
- How can we give advice on cost when you didn't tell us the year/make/model car? If the water pump is leaking, then it is a sign that the water pump is failing and must be replaced ASAP. Yes, it is necessary!! and it must be done before your trip, or you will ruin the engine.
- Q: i got that special socket but everytime i try to loosen the pump going clockwise i can not get the pump to come loose the socket just slips off any suggestions these is a northstar engine
- You sure you have the right tool?? There are 2 different tools they came out with. Cant remember the year but Cadillac changed the water pump design which the tools had to change. Neither one will work on the other design. Both almost look the same except the teeth stick further out on the older design. I always use a impact, put the socket on your impact just bump the trigger enough to get the pump to turn a little. But not too much or you'll break the ears of the housing then you'll have to replace the crossover asy I did see you said CLOCKWISE!!!!!! Make sure you are turning it to the direction to tighten, this has the reverse on/off direction
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AKS Series Self-Priming Peripheral Pump
- Ref Price:
-
- Loading Port:
- Ningbo
- Payment Terms:
- TT OR LC
- Min Order Qty:
- -
- Supply Capability:
- -
OKorder Service Pledge
Quality Product, Order Online Tracking, Timely Delivery
OKorder Financial Service
Credit Rating, Credit Services, Credit Purchasing
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