• Air Conditioning Pump KT Series ISO2858 Standard System 1
  • Air Conditioning Pump KT Series ISO2858 Standard System 2
  • Air Conditioning Pump KT Series ISO2858 Standard System 3
Air Conditioning Pump KT Series ISO2858 Standard

Air Conditioning Pump KT Series ISO2858 Standard

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1 set
Supply Capability:
200 set/month

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Introduction of Air Conditioning Pump KT Series ISO2858 Standard
The pump mounting meeting ISO2858;Design pressure up to 1.6MPa; Seal cavities construction is suitable for both mechanical seal and soft packing seal; the key wet parts are stainless steel precision casting and good appearance. To match different liquid application, material can be Cast Iron, Stainless steel and bronze alloyetc. The motor and pump share one shaft., high efficiency,good balance.


Advantage of Air Conditioning Pump KT Series ISO2858 Standard
Quick mantainance
Higher Efficiency&saving energy
Low noise
Non-leakage
Stabel runing and longer operation life
Save Installation Space
Exellent Performance
Compact Structure

Technical data of Air Conditioning Pump KT Series ISO2858 Standard
Diameter of Discharge Flange: DN25 upto DN450
Capacity:Q:3.8-2850m3/h
Head:H:8-162m
Max Working Pressure:1.6MPa
Max Operating Temperature:120degree
Rotation Direction: from the driven end, the pump rotating direction is CW
Solid Grainn: less than 80mg/L

                                                                                                                  
Model meaning of Air Conditioning Pump KT Series ISO2858 Standard
KT 100/315
KT KT Series Air Conditon Pump
100 - Suction Diameter (mm)
315 Impeller Diameter Normal size 315mm
A- Impeller Trimmed Code


Applications of Air Conditioning Pump KT Series ISO2858 Standard
Civil, Chemical industry, Metallurgy, Light industry.
Such as : Buildings, water works, irrigation, HVAC ; oil processing, Steel industry, silver-smelting, copper-smelting, iron-smelting, Tin-smelting, aluminium -smelting, zinc-smeltingetc non-ferrous metal smelting. Foodstuff, pharmacy,power plant, drink water, clean water, alcohol, desalination of sea water and water treatment.

FAQ of Air Conditioning Pump KT Series ISO2858 Standard

1. Are your pumps protected against dry running?

No, unprotected centrifugal pumps are not generally designed for dry running. It is important to give us or your dealer as much information as possible about the system in which the pump is used. Inlet pressure, the type of liquid to be pumped, together with relative density, viscosity and temperature, for example, are required in order to allow CNBM to recommend the right pump with the right gaskets for a long operating lifetime.

2. How can I get trained on CNBM products?

Yes, we provide training courses in our factory (products, general and specific pump technology, hydraulics, and practical applications). Please consult your sales manager or get in touch with our headquarters for more information.

3. Are your pumps cheaper than those of your competitors?

CNBM aims to give its customers the highest standards of quality and service and delivery times, all at a reasonable price.

4. Do you have self-priming pumps?

Yes, our product portfolio also includes two ranges of self-priming pumps: self-priming electric pumps and self-priming side channel pumps.

Q: I want to buy a tree spraying rig for my property but would like to know its theoretical capabilities first. The rig has a gas powered diaphragm pump capable of delivering 20 GPM @ a maximum pressure of 300 psi. The hose coming from the pump is 150' long and is 0.75in diameter. It has a solid stream nozzle that measures 0.1875in diameter. What would the maximum theoretical elevation that this setup could deliver a steady stream of water? The nozzle would be aimed at between 45 and 60 degrees from horizontal.
well water exerts about 1 atm pressure (15psi) for each 33 feet of depth so 300psi is about 10 atm meaning that your pump could support a column some 330ft high then figure what pressure you would need to make your spray effective and subtract 33ft per 15psi this is only a ballpark estimate losses in hoses will be significant
Q: Car is ford taurus 98.The car had some problems including overheating as thermostat was bad so was was not working. i drove it 25 miles to garage (i had to stop once because too hot to let it cool), i brought it to Ford who replaced the thermostat. Now they tell me some bits of thermostat broke and they need to replace the waterpump and want $620 for it. The other repair were also extremely expensive and i want to bring it to another garage 1.3 miles away on flat road.-1- is it safe to drive 1.3 mile with no water pump or should iget it towed?-2- should i have to pay for the water pump or is it ford's fault if they did not remove the bits of broken thermostat before reconnecting new thermostat to hose ? Can i prove that the pump was working when i came in if i drove 25 miles with it ?Thanks for your help.
1) it is safe to drive 1.3 miles if the weather is cold and you do not have to idle a lot - You are MUCH safer having it towed and do you want to risk an engine over a $75 tow fee? I would tow it 2) you should probably have to pay for the water pump - there is no way to prove it did not break while you were driving with it overheating, there could have been parts while you were driving. It is too bad they use plastic vanes now days, old water pumps could have taken the wear. It would be a lot cheaper if you could replace the water pump, but it can be very hard with modern vehicles. I would do my 69 Chevy myself easy but I would have to examine the Taurus before I would brave it out - $600 might be reasonable for a dealership to replace a water pump - I hope you find a mechanic you trust.
Q: Okay heres the deal Its knockin and I tthink the water pump is going would this be a cause of this and when it heats up it knocks but when its cold it doesnt knock also once it gets hot it shuts off and starts to smoke what could this be is it maybe the waterpump when I try to re start the car after it shuts it self off it only just clicks wount turn over thanks
jason is right on this. a water pump wont do what your saying. it sounds more like something inside the engine is knocking, like a rod bearing.
Q: I have a 2000 Ford Focus with 82k miles on it. The car is leaking coolant intermittently. The radiator was replaced about 3 yrs ago. The car doesn't overheat but when I turn it off I can hear a boiling sound and it smells like something is burning. It's not a strong smell but it's there. The car also idles rough and downright shakes at times. Also, and I know this sounds crazy, when I'm driving it I hear a sort of whooshing noise that sounds like water. Could this be the water pump or something more serious? I'm taking it to the mechanic tomorrow but would like an idea as to what could be wrong.
There are airpockets in the cooling system. You hear gurgling in the heater core as water, steam and air bubble through it. What a mess and it's only a 2000. If you have the water pump checked for leaking, that could be where the coolant is escaping. If the car overheated, this situation could be more serious than just having to replace coolant. Some damage may have come from when you had to replace the radiator.You might have a warped or cracked cylinder head. There are several things to do to try and dfiagnose how bad this problem is. One it to bleed the cooling system of air and watch to make sure coolant loss has ceased. Another is to use an emission probe at the opening of the radiator to see if combustion products are getting into the cooling system. The water pump shouldn't be leaking already, but the quality of the part could be questionable and it might indeed be leaking and need replacing. A good shop can do all this, but it takes time and the cost can build up with the seriousness of the situation. Budget for up to $2000, but repairs might only cost a few hundred, depending on what's wrong.
Q: My car overheats in hot temperatures I have try everything except replacing the water pump and radiator how can I tell when its time to change each one and is it a do-it-yourself job
Water pumps are very simple. They only fail if 1) They spring a leak, 2) Their bearing freezes up, or 3) Their drive belt breaks or slips. I'd suspect the thermostat first, a clogged radiator second, or a bad electric fan or relay. They are easy to replace on most pre-1960's cars, and a complete hassle on many newer models. Good luck with the project.
Q: I have a 1978 El Camino V8 305. My power steering has been going out on me, and since then my belt has been squeaking usually when it first starts up. This morning when I got to work, smoke was bellowing from under my hood. Im trying to troubleshoot. Is it possible that my power steering pump damaged the belt enough that the water pump went out?
The only method of positive identification is to use a mechanics stethoscope. A failing bearing is most likely causing the whine, but wear in the p/s pump can also create a whining noise which will get noticeably louder when the wheel is turned and held against the stop with the engine running.
Q: Here are specifications for two water pump sets. I would like to know which one will have more vertical suction.Pump 1:1.5 hp, 98cc Engine, 4 - Strokes RPM 3600 (Engine RPM), Petrol Fuel, Fuel Consumption 700 ml/hour, Delivery (horizontal) 50m, Inlet / Outlet Port (Dia) 1.5x1.5 inches, Output Capacity 48000 Litres / Hour.Pump 2:3.3hp, 163 cc Engine, 4 - Strokes RPM 3600 (Engine RPM), Petrol Start amp; Kerosene Run, Fuel Consumption 700 ml/hour, Delivery (horizontal) 26m, Inlet / Outlet Port (Dia) 2x2 inches Output Capacity 36000 Litres / Hour.which one should I go for.
The first one appears to have a higher flow rating but neither gives a head figure, which is the maximum height it can work to above the pump. Lift from below a pump is limited to 32ft on any form of water pump; that is the limit water will rise to with a total vacuum above it. A normal pump cannot pull a perfect vacuum so working lift will be somewhat less. The practical limit depends on the pump head in use and it's actual head limit; the total height from the pickup point to the delivery point count as working head. Any kind of centrifugal pump or one which cannot also pump air perfectly will need a foot valve at the base of the inlet pipe and a priming system to fill the pipe and pump body with water before the pump is started. If you expect the water level to be more than 10 - 15ft down, you would be better off with a submersible pump; the only limit then is the head rating which can be just about anything. Get a suitably rated petrol or diesel generator as well (3x the pump power rating) if it must operate independently of mains power.
Q: The dealership wants nearly $500. to replace the water pump in our 2002 Tahoe (5.3) it's leaking from the weep hole. I'm somewhat mechanically declined, what precautions will I need to know and any special tools to do the job myself? I've done a few water pumps back in the 1980's that didn't leak Thank you
The dealerships are ridiculous. You probably need a ratchet and a couple sockets. You've done a water pump before? A water pump is still to this day, just a water pump. The difference is in where they put them nowadays. I don't know what kind of engine is in a 2002 tahoe, but I'm pretty sure it's not trans-mounted. So get in there, pull that sucker out, and replace it! Come on, you've done it before. And pick up a Hanes manual at the auto store. It will even walk you through the process, they come in very handy. I'm a mechanic, and I buy a Hanes manual for every car I own.
Q: Im replacing the water pump in my 1992 toyota celica, and i cant get the pully off! i have been working hard for like an hour, i took the belts off. all i have is good old fashoned sockets and crescent wrenches. do i need to get the pully off? and is it lefty loosey and righty tighty or righty loosy lefty tighty?? because sometimes i hear they reverse it. thanks- jordan
I am sure you would have to get the pulley off in order to access the bolts holding the water pump on. Is there not 4 bolts holding the pulley on? I agree with Don below here. My experience with toyota water pumps was with my 1986 toyota pickup where the pulley did come off after removing the fan.
Q: i want to change the water pump on my on a 70 hp (70C) nissan outboard motor and i never pulled a lower unit, not sure what to expect thanks for any help
hi you need to get the workshop manual for your motor. You can go to the library I am sure they will have one. The basics though... make sure you have a lower unit gaskey set, a full water pump rebuild kit and the correct impellor. You need the manual so that you can locate the correct bolts to loosen and the procedure for disconecting the gear shifting mechanism. With the manual its an easy job. without.. its kind of pot luck if you have never done it before. I have changed impellors and water pumps on many different boat motors and i have aways used the manuals. Even now I would still use the manual as a reference to change the impellor and water pump housing in my Johnson even though i have done it before. The manual will probily cost about $25 but it will save you hundreds in the long run as you will be able to trouble shoot other problems.

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