• 220kV XLPE Insulation Power Cable cables System 1
  • 220kV XLPE Insulation Power Cable cables System 2
220kV XLPE Insulation Power Cable cables

220kV XLPE Insulation Power Cable cables

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Loading Port:
Shanghai
Payment Terms:
TT OR LC
Min Order Qty:
100 m
Supply Capability:
10000 m/month

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1. Application

This product is apply to electric line which rated power-frequency voltage up to 127/220kV.


2、Type and Specification

Voltage Class

220 kV

Type

YJLW02、YJLW03、YJLW02-Z、YJLW03-Z、YJV、YJY、YJV-Z、YJY-Z

Size Range(mm2)

1 core:400~2500

Executive Standard

GB/Z 1889-2002


3. Operational Performance


    a. Rated power-frequency voltage up to U0/U 64/110 kV.

    b. Cable conductor allowed long-term working temperature not exceeding 90 ℃.

    c. When short circuit happened (the duration no longer than 3 seconds),the maximum temperature of cable conductor is not exceeding 250℃.

d. The bending radius of three cores unarmored cable should not be less than 25 times of outer diameter of cable.

    e. When laying cable, the ambient temperature should not be lower than 0℃.


4、Cable Structure Diagram


       1、Conductor   2、Semi conductive Nylon Tape   3、Conductor Screen  4、Insulation   5、InsulationScreen   6、Semi conductive Buffer Strip  7、Corrugated Aluminum Vertical Cladding   8、Anticorrosive Coating  9、Outer Sheath


 1、Conductor   2、Semi conductive NylonTape   3、Conductor Screen   4、Conductor Screen  5、Insulation Screen   6、Copper Wire Shielding   7、Copper Tape Tighten   8、Outer Sheath


Q: What are the reasons for the explosion of the cable? In the cable online
Fiber engineering to see what you are doing, first of all is the cable selection model need to use the number of cable cable. There is a light converter, ODF frame. Open signal will use passive splitter, pigtail, fiber jumpers, optical modules. Brand you have a lot, and you want to domestic or foreign.
Q: Recently, I purchased two power tools from Craftsman - a 19.2v 1/2drill/driver and a 4.56A angle grinder that look exactly like ones sold by Porter Cable. I don't have links for the drills, but compare pictures of the two grinders below. Other than part of the plastic housing being a different color, you can clearly see that it's the exact same tool.
Most everything is made by one manufacturer different companies that order enough of anything can have there own branding on them the brands you have mentioned are at the lower end of the spectrum as for quality you will probably discover that the cheapest lithium ion cordless drill is just as good as the most expensive one on the market
Q: I purchased a LCD TV the other day and ran a cable line to it (via crawl space). I had to use a splitter to connect the new TV. I connected the cable directly to the TV and then the power cable to the outlet which “popped” and the power went out (breaker trips). I connect the TV power cable to a surge protector and the power goes out again (surge protector wasn’t even on). So I disconnect the cable from the tv and connect the power. Everything is fine until I try and connect the cable...let’s just say the spark was bright and hot enough to melt part of the connector on the TV! So I return the TV and get a different brand and the same thing happens when I plug it into a surge protector. To begin narrowing out possible problems I connect the cable to a regular 10 year old TV with no problems. It is a brand new cable with no cuts or fraying. Any suggestions?
Something is seriously wrong, and you may need to get an electrician on the problem. You need to check the voltage between your set and the cable with a meter. There should be little or no measurable voltage. If you are getting a reading like 115 volts, then I suspect that the wall outlet into which your TV is plugged has been wired backwards, i.e. the black wire is on the white terminal, and vice-versa. The cable is (or should be) grounded where it comes into the house, but if the outlet has the hot wire on the wrong side, this might cause the problem you described. The wrong connection could have occurred anywhere along the line between your main panel and the outlet, so this may involve checking the connections at several outlets and light fixtures - whatever is on the same circuit as your TV's outlet.
Q: if i remove the power cable and switch on it works normally without restarting , plz help with this ~?
go in control panel and set ur laptop settings to not to start while swith in
Q: Included in my EVGA 8800gs box was a 6 pin to 2x 4 pin molex power cable. My current power supply already had a 6 pin power cable.My Cooler Master 500w power supply has dual rails pushing 16amp each. The requirements for the EVGA 8800gs are:Minimum of a 400 Watt power supply.(Minimum recommended power supply with +12 Volt current rating of 22 Amp Amps.)Notice the 22 amp. To supply this power, am I supposed to connect the 6 pin to 2x 4 pin molex power cable to each of the 16amp rails from my power supply therefor providing 32amp? How am I supposed to get 22amps to the card?Most all power supplies I see that are dual railed go no higher than 20amp per rail.Any thoughts? Thanks,Brad
If you already have a 6 pin then your good to go. The 2x 4pin molex connectors are for the case if you didn't have the 6pin. The rails on a PSU are not independant, they are combined. Look for the maximum loading of your PSU.
Q: Why did my power supply entrance burn with the power cord cable the stats of my computer are: HP Compaq dx2250 Microtower PCProgram: Windows 8 32bitPowerSupply: 500w MaxGraphics Card: Nvidia Geforce GTX 550 tiWhy cause it to burn? What should I do? Change the power supply or buy a better power cord cable. The cable that burn, I bought it on OKorder for $2, I am not sure if this cause the problem, but for sure I need to buy a power supply because the entrance burn. What should I do? Is my computer stable with all this stats? What cause this to happen? Was the cheap power cord fault? I don't know, please answerThank You,
A dodgy power cable can very easily singe or burn the power socket on the computer. In general, the lighter the cable, the more dodgy it is. $2 is nothing - I would buy a more expensive cable. The cents you save isn't worth it when your house is on fire. It's impossible to know whether your power supply or other computer components suffered any damage because of the electrical fire. You could try testing with a multimeter, but you should probably replace the power supply at a minimum.
Q: I just recently purchased a PowerColor AMD Radeon HD 7850 graphics card (which didn't come with a power adapter cable) amp; needing to know what the power adapter cable looks like. If anyone could possibly send me a link with a picture, that would help out a lot.
I have never seen one in my life! But have you researched it on google?
Q: I have a 2003 Honda Accord. I'm trying to put an amp and sub in it. My problem is, I'm not sure how to get the power cable from the batter to the inside of the car. I know it needs to go through the firewall, but I need to know exactly where. I couldn't find any unoccupied holes. I also need to know where the other side of the hole will be so that I can grab the wire from the other side. Pictures would be really great if you have them.
The best place to run a wire through the firewall is through the firewall connector. Take the firewall connector apart, and look for an empty connection port. Take your power supply wire and hook it up to the engine compartment side, then take another wire (to lead to the radio), and hook it up top the corresponding port in the interior side of the connector. This will be the best way to make your connection. If you can't do this, then drill a hole in the firewall, install a grommet to protect the wires from the firewall. Again, the firewall connector will be your best bet, and people will be asking where did you take it to get it installed. This is how a professional would do it.
Q: I have a SATA DVD burner SATA 160GB HD .... but the PSU only comes with ONE SATA power connector .... great ..I was thinking about buying a SATA host controller card ... but I found out that that will only give me more SATA ports and take up one of my PCI slots LOLThen I was thinking about returning my SATA DVD burner for an IDE DVD burner ...
confident you go with as many SATA cables as complicated drives. potential for the HDDR's comes from the potential supply. confident you diskpersistent demands potential from the potential supply. i think of for the GFX card you're taking some 6 pin PCIe connector returned potential supply.
Q: SATA power connector? If so where can i buy one?
Probably, but most people just buy Molex to SATA power adapters. If you need more Molex 4 pin plugs, just buy some Y splitters. Any computer store worth a darn should have some of both in stock, even the chain ones.

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