XSN Single Suction Low Pressure Three Screw Pump
- Ref Price:
-
- Loading Port:
- Shanghai
- Payment Terms:
- TT OR LC
- Min Order Qty:
- 1 unit
- Supply Capability:
- 100 unit/month
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Features of XSN Single Suction Low Pressure Three Screw Pump
It is applicable to conveying of media free from solid particles
Continuous conveying, small pressure pulsation
Low noise, long service life
Strong suction capacity, auxiliary equipment without the need for vacuumization
Compact structure, small volume, light weight
It can be directly driven by motor or other power
No foam or vortex in the conveying process
It can be used for conveying of high viscosity and high temperature media
Conveying Medium of XSN Single Suction Low Pressure Three Screw Pump
Medium viscosity: 3-760 mm²/s (You can communicate with our technicians and will be provided with customized service if it is beyond the scope)
Medium temperature: at most 250 degree
The pump applied to the media containing solidified matters should be specified
Multiple Configurations of XSN Single Suction Low Pressure Three Screw Pump
Materials: Different metal materials can be selected
Drive: Motor drive, motor speed regulation or other drive types
FAQ of of XSN Single Suction Low Pressure Three Screw Pump
Are CNBM pumps available in DIY stores?
Yes, currently, we’re available for DIY stores all over the world.
Where do I have to send pumps for service?
You must send them to the CNBM PUMP Service Point or, after contacting Customer Care, to the CNBM PUMP service center in China.
Are your pumps acid-proofed?
To choose the right pumps for chemical applications, we do need further details on hydraulic operations as well as on the type, concentration and temperature of the liquid.
Can your pumps mount Eff.1 motors
Currently, only on request though this will shortly be a CNBM standard.
- Q: Our house is situated on very sandy soil. I suspect that my water pump may be getting clogged with sand and silt and other debris. The water flow from the sinks and showers often stops randomly in the middle of the water running only to turn on maybe 30 seconds later. This seems to happen more and more frequently now where as a year ago and beyond it never occurred. Any suggestions?
- I would still be leaning towards alignment issues are at play here. What I would recommend is putting it on a dyno, not to check the power but so you can see what is happening while the engine is under a power load. I did build an engine once that could not keep belts on, they spun off. I have seen some truly strange things happen. Perhaps the strangest was a thrust bearing allowed to much crank shaft end play and as a result the starter was binding on the flywheel. Yet another was a cam shaft retainer not installed properly allowed the timing chain to snap. Another possibility is the crank damper pulley and not being seated properly.
- Q: please answer my below question whether it is possible or not.can i get 15,00,000 lit/day amount of water by using 10hp water pump at the distance of 5m total head?
- This Site Might Help You. RE: what is the discharge amount of 10hp water pump? please answer my below question whether it is possible or not. can i get 15,00,000 lit/day amount of water by using 10hp water pump at the distance of 5m total head?
- Q: I've got a 1997 Ford Probe, taken it to a couple different places; whenever I drive my vehicle, it tends to want to overheat. I don't drive it to the point where it does though, I know that could cause more damage! I've noticed that when I go out to my car in the morning, there's some coolant on the ground by the front passenger's tire. Before I drive it I fill it with coolant, as to try to keep it from overheating while driving.I've been told that it's the water pump leaking from 2 people but then the last person said there's no leakage. I'm wondering if it might be something else? Maybe a thermostat, a hose, maybe? How would I figure this out???
- Sounds like it's probably the water pump to me too. It's easy to tell though, just get it on a lift and take a look at the water pump. If it's leaking out of the weeping hole, it's toast. Don't power wash an engine unless you want to risk very expensive repairs from water being forced into places it's not supposed to be. Odds of the pump locking up and leaving you stranded before those bearings get VERY upset, start screaming and dumping fluid like there's a hole in the system is a hundred to one. You should be able to limp it to a shop just fine when it gets worse. Just be careful not to overheat and you'll be fine. (I did say 1 in a hundred, you're not super unlucky, are you?)
- Q: i changed my fuel pump and now my car wont turn over....any help? maybe starter?
- im confused at everything you are saying here. first off you said you changed the water pump and then it wont start and u said u changed the fuel pump in the next sentence.... so which one did you change?? and how does it try to start but not turn over? if it trys to start the engine has to turn over other wise you would hear a click sound which could be low battery or looose connections... try jumping it. if that doesnt work it could be the starter as well. but generaly if the starter goes out it wont make no noise at all when u turn the key..... if urs makes noise then its trying to turn which means it needs more power... unless you did somthing wrong and the engine is in such a bind it cant turn. now if ur engine is turning over when u try to start it then it could mean its still not getting fuel so u need to check for fuel. if it has fuel then ur problem could resume in no spark to ur plugs which means if u replaced the fuel pump cause it wouldnt start then that may not have been ur problem the whole time u should have checked for spark and fuel before replacing random parts cause u think they are bad. so depending on what your trying to say here its hard to give u a direct answer cause u completely reword yourself over and over and nothing makes sense.
- Q: I have a submersible pump outdoors for the water to my house. Indoors is a holding tank and pressure gauge. It seems the pressure gauge keeps slowly declining down to 20. Then when the toilet is flushed, the gauge kicks on and climbs to 50. Then left alone for a while the gauge again declines to 20. Do I have a leak somewhere? If so , where? Does the ballast inside the holding tank need to be pressurized? If so, how where? I seem to remember years ago, my husband did something with a bicycle tire air pump. Makes sense? Thanks
- If it's going down while nobody is using water then the check valve or foot valve is leaking through when the pump is off. It should pump it to a determined PSI then shut off. I suppose there could be a leak somewhere in the line, but I suspect the check valve. It's pretty common. ....the ballast does need to be pressurized but I doubt that's your problem. If that was bad you would have severe water hammer.
- Q: What motor with Grundfos pumps
- General Motors Malaysia gelanfu! Can also be optional!
- Q: water pump has small leak
- If its an automotive water pump, you need to have it replaced. Because of pump pressures and constant expanding/contracting there is no reliable way to seal the leak. Plus the leak will only get worse. Radiator additives basically clog leaks from the inside, like a bloodclot on a body. But the leak never actually heals and instead the stuff clogs other parts like the inside of the radiator or heater core.
- Q: i have a 2000 chevy malibu (i know it sucks) i fixed the intake manifold gaskets (upper and lower) thermostat and its still leaking and sometimes overheating. my next thought is its the water pump. there's no crack in the radiator or hoses is there anything else that can cause it to overheat besides these. what about vacuum leakage? o2 sensors?
- some other possible causes of overheat: lean mixture inadequate oiling poor circululation due to restriction in water lines
- Q: I have a 2002 honda civic with 85k miles the dealer says the timing belt should be replaced. But with the water pump timing belt tensioner also have to be replaced???
- The timing belt drives the water pump in your car. To replace the water pump, you have to remove the timing belt. When you are having the timing belt replaced, it makes sense to also replace the water pump. There is very little additional labor to do so, as the timing belt is already removed. You do not have to do so, but if you do not, and the water pump subsequently fails, you will be paying the full labor charge to replace it rather than just the cost of the part. As to the belt tensioner, I would replace that because it is a wear item, and if it fails it can cause a timing belt failure. If you are going to risk the timing belt failing (and causing major damage to the engine) you might as well not have the belt replaced. I would never replace a timing belt without also replacing the water pump and tensioner. It is false economy to do so.
- Q: i got that special socket but everytime i try to loosen the pump going clockwise i can not get the pump to come loose the socket just slips off any suggestions these is a northstar engine
- keep in mind that the water pump is reversed as for removing setting up. You tighten to eliminate it loosen it to place in it. additionally, it in ordinary terms is going in there a million way!!!! do no longer stress it otherwise you would be changing the crossover which aint much less costly. until eventually now removing the previous one, investigate the recent water pump founf the notch or different sized tab, it is going in a undeniable spot. investigate the previous one, verify which you do evaluate the place that tab is sitting interior the crossover.
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XSN Single Suction Low Pressure Three Screw Pump
- Ref Price:
-
- Loading Port:
- Shanghai
- Payment Terms:
- TT OR LC
- Min Order Qty:
- 1 unit
- Supply Capability:
- 100 unit/month
OKorder Service Pledge
Quality Product, Order Online Tracking, Timely Delivery
OKorder Financial Service
Credit Rating, Credit Services, Credit Purchasing
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