XLPE Insulated Power Cable - electric cable up to 35kV
- Ref Price:
-
- Loading Port:
- China main port
- Payment Terms:
- TT OR LC
- Min Order Qty:
- 1000 m
- Supply Capability:
- 20000 m/month
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Constructions
Conductor | Compact Stranded Copper Conductor, Class 2 as per IEC 60228 |
Circular solid Copper Conductor, Class 1 as per IEC 60228 | |
Flexible Stranded Copper Conductor, Class 5 as per IEC 60228 | |
Conductor Screen | Semi-conductor (MV only) |
Insulation | XLPE(Cross-linked polyethylene) |
Insulation Screen | Semi-conductor (MV only) |
Separate Screen | Copper Tape (MV must, LV optional) |
Filler | PP Yarn, or Paper |
Wrapping Tape | PP |
Inner Covering | Extruded PVC (MV only) |
Armour | Steel Wire, or Steel Tape, or Aluminium Tape optional |
Overall Sheath | PVC or PE |
Applications
Used for power transmission and distribution line with voltage rated at 35kV and below.Compared with PVC Insulated Power Cable, xlpe power cable boasts not only characteristics of excellent electricity, mechanism, heat and aging-resistant, environment stress-resistant and chemical corrosion-resistant, but also simple structure, light weight, no restriction by laying drop, and high temperature allowance for long-term working.
Standards
International: IEC 60502-2, IEC 60228
China: GB/T 12706.2-2008
Other standards such as BS,DIN and ICEA upon request
Technical data
Rated voltage: 0.6/1kV, 1.8/3kV, 6/10kV, 8.7/10kV, 8.7/15kV, 12/20kV, 21/35kV, 26/35kV
Maximum Conductor Temperature: under normal (90°C), emergency (130°C) or short circuit no more than 5 s (250°C) conditions.
Min. Ambient Temp. 0°C, after installation and only when cable is in a fixed position
Min. Bending Radius: 20 x cable O.D for single-core non-armoured cables
15 x cable O.D for single-core armoured cables
15 x cable O.D for multi-core non-armoured cables
12 x cable O.D for multi-core armoured cables
Certificates
ISO9001
CE, RoHS, CCC, KEMA and more others at request
- Q:I have my old 350 power supply cable but i got a new 520 one. do i have to use the defuly 520 power suppl cable? i use my old cabbke
- No, as long as it can supply the proper voltage and amperage.
- Q:The power button doesn't appear to be wired correctly. I press it and nothing ever happens. The only way to shut it down is to forcefully remove the power cable. My PC also does not shut down when I select shut down in the start menu. It just restarts.
- The wiring for your front panel is probably haywire. You need to open up your pc. The little cords that come from the front panel to the inside of your pc will have writing down the sides that tell you what they are, and right next to where they plug into your mobo will be writing that matches the writing on the cords. Make sure your cords are plugged in correctly.
- Q:Will it work if I put a pigtail (connect the wires by twisting them together) or does that stop it from working properly..
- That would not be wise. Alot of power is traveling through that cable. Chances are you might fry your laptop or start a fire. Just go buy a new cable
- Q:How can we manage power (voltage ) loss in the long distance if elcetricity is fed along with the cable?
- The repeaters use copper wire bundled together with the fiber optic to power the repeaters, the voltage drop is managed with an engineered choice of voltage and current. Each cable has a different combination to suite the particular distance. And each cable would be tailored for the individual application.
- Q:So my vehicle's amp recently stopped working. It worked great after I installed it about a year before, so after testing for shorts, burnt out fuses, etc, I decided that the amp had died on me. After getting a new one-and it not working either-I checked the voltage at the end of the power cable where it hooks onto the amp. I get a 12v reading when the ignition is off, but only a 4v reading when it is in the run or aux. position. The in line fuse is good, as well as the battery (just had it checked). Any ideas as to why this is happening? As of this posting, I have NOT tried running a new power cable yet, but that is the next step if nobody has an answer. Thanks.
- sounds you have a loose ground connection.
- Q:Hello,I recently bought a kotatsu and I really need some help. The power cable is of course Japanese And I need some type of converter.On the part of the cable that plugs into the radiotaor it says:PSE (It's in some square box)JET MR7A 250VOn the end that plugs into the wall it says:PSE (It's in some square box)JET MR7A 125VI''m not sure if a simple small converter to let me put the Japanese cable into my wall is enough, I think I need something extra to make sure nothing goes into flames.Inside the Japanese instruction manual I found some info However, I'm not really sure if it is related to the power supply or notAC100V 50-60Hz400W3.1 (Probably the length of the cable) 1.3 (Same here I think)140Wh 60 Wh55C 37CPlease help me, what should I get to be able to use the cable in Europe. Any links at all will be helpfulThanks.
- Don't worry too much about what the cord says. Worry about the power requirements on the appliance label, and making sure you are feeding it with the voltage required, with a capacity within the range. In your instance, you will need a converter transformer that converts your outlet voltage to 100V, and has 550 or larger watt capacity.
- Q:Right now, the cables behind my audio receiver are tangled beyond recognition. I need to organize them...How should I bundle my speaker wire to minimize RF and EM interference? I've heard that a quot;8-shapedbundle is good.Is there any truth to this claim? If so, explain.Thanks in advance!
- any cable with an electrical current passing through will create an electromagnetic field. however when you bundle them in a single loop, because the currents are going in the same direction they will resemble a very big cable with a lot of current, so the magnetic field will be much larger (this is in part how an electric motor works). the best way to avoid this would be to remove excess cable so there would be no need to have loops. Really i'm not convinced about the benefits of having the cable in a figure 8 pattern, because it's just like having two loops really. i would try to avoid loops, or at least keep them away from the actual hifi and the speakers. generally components in your hifi and speakers will be magnetically shielded, to prevent any interference like that, however if you hear a buzzing noise when your mobile phone is near, than it's possible they're not shielded, as your mobile phone is a source of electromagnetic interference. if you're worried about electromagnetic interference it is also worth noting that wifi routers, mobile and cordless phones and microwaves are all sources of electromagnetic radiation. hope that all helps
- Q:What cable am I supposed to use for power?
- That kind, it's kind of hard to see on the OKorder pic. Usually your switch should come with a console cable and the power cord, unless you bought it used. The person probably kept it.
- Q:I'm going to be running 1/0 gauge power wire in my car. My amp only accepts 4 gauge. Is it better to run 1 the whole way through and use power cable adaptors to fit the amp or run the 1 gauge into a distribution block that sizes the output wire down to a 4?
- either way is fine unless your total system power will exceed 3000 watts....otherwise it would be cheaper and just as good to just run the 4 all the way from the battery and use the 1/0 gauge for your big three upgrade should you be exceeding 1000 watts
- Q:Why did my power supply entrance burn with the power cord cable the stats of my computer are: HP Compaq dx2250 Microtower PCProgram: Windows 8 32bitPowerSupply: 500w MaxGraphics Card: Nvidia Geforce GTX 550 tiWhy cause it to burn? What should I do? Change the power supply or buy a better power cord cable. The cable that burn, I bought it on OKorder for $2, I am not sure if this cause the problem, but for sure I need to buy a power supply because the entrance burn. What should I do? Is my computer stable with all this stats? What cause this to happen? Was the cheap power cord fault? I don't know, please answerThank You,
- A dodgy power cable can very easily singe or burn the power socket on the computer. In general, the lighter the cable, the more dodgy it is. $2 is nothing - I would buy a more expensive cable. The cents you save isn't worth it when your house is on fire. It's impossible to know whether your power supply or other computer components suffered any damage because of the electrical fire. You could try testing with a multimeter, but you should probably replace the power supply at a minimum.
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XLPE Insulated Power Cable - electric cable up to 35kV
- Ref Price:
-
- Loading Port:
- China main port
- Payment Terms:
- TT OR LC
- Min Order Qty:
- 1000 m
- Supply Capability:
- 20000 m/month
OKorder Service Pledge
OKorder Financial Service
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