• Vertical Pipeline Multistage Centrifugal Pump ALDG Series System 1
Vertical Pipeline Multistage Centrifugal Pump ALDG Series

Vertical Pipeline Multistage Centrifugal Pump ALDG Series

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ALDG multistage pipeline centrifugal pumps are newly developed products designed and manufactured to the standard of JB/TQ6435-92, destined to meet the users’ requirements and relative fire control standard on the basis of the advanced pump models at home.

  This pump model takes a vertical segmental structure with stainless casing outside, and the inlet and outlet of pump are located on the same horizontal line and are of the same diameters, so that it can be mounted, just like a valve, in pipeline. Combined with the advantage of high pressure of multistage pump, the small occupation space of vertical pump, the easy installation of pipeline pump, and the use of advanced hydraulic model to feature high efficiency, energy conservation, smooth operation etc., as well as wear-resistant mechanical seal to feature leak-tightness and long service life.

  To better meet users’ requirements, we have developed the model of ALDGS of which the outlet is located at the upper part, and the outlet and inlet can be easily mounted to the angles of 0℃, 90℃ and 180℃.

  For make operation safer and more dependable, we have developed detachable structure. Besides all the advantages of ALDG and ALDGS, it makes the replacement of mechanical seal and other wearing parts much easier, faster and labor-saving, making the operation and maintenance more reliable.

This type of pumps is suitable for the circulation and pressurization of cold and hot clean water in high-pressure operation system, water supply under parallel operation of several pumps in high-rise constructions, water supply for fire control and boilers, cooling water system, and the delivery of various washing liquors.

Q: How much would a water pump cost for a 1991 cadillac deville
COST TO INSTALL WATER PUMP
Q: After reaching a height of 50 feet , there should be enough pressure to hose around 20 to 30 feet of water from it for curing concrete structure ex: columns, slab area etc. How many inches ( diameter ) of rubber hose is required to plug the water pump for pumping water ?
hp list of water pumps
Q: does any one know where the water pump is located on a 97 nissan altima? and where can i find one, would pep boys have one?
most cars, it is in the front, driven by the timing belt. If you are going to replace the pump, replace the timing belt also (if there is one), as it's probably overdue, and you have to remove it to get at the water pump. Also the tensioner. Replacing the timing belt is a difficult task. If you screw it up, you could damage the engine. .
Q: My water stopped working and my tank emptied. I replaced the pressure switch and the gauge. It still didn't work. The well is about 110'. I pulled the pump and replaced it (1/2 HP, 10 gpm, 2-wire). It still doesn't work. The old pump was 15 years old. The one before only lasted 7 years. The water has a lot of sediment. I have never done this before, but it seemed straightforward enough. The wires on the pump were not differentiated in any way (same color). Could I have put the wires together incorrectly? Could I have put the switch in wrong? It doesn't click on when the breaker is turned on. What else could be wrong? Could the breaker be bad? It wasn't kicked out.
A two wire pump usually has a 120 volt motor. The neutral wire from the motor goes to the neutral wire at the disconnect switch. The other wire from the motor goes to one terminal screw of the pressure switch. The disconnect switch hot wire goes to the terminal screw right next to the first one. ( either the two terminals on the left or the two on the right. ) Sometimes people will switch the neutral wire as well. If the voltage is good, pressure switch contacts are clean - like no bugs having been smashed or caught up in between, then you might expect a break in the wire or the wire splice at the motor wire connection. If your old pump burned out you may have needed new wire also. Sometimes the wire will burn apart inside the insulation and make a bubble. If your old wire was in good shape, or you replaced it, you should have used a submersible splice to connect to the motor wires. Crimp on wire connectors should be crimped tight. Every now and then I find one that didn't get crimped on one side. Rubber tape followed by plastic tape over that splice is good. Some people like the plastic tubes with compression ends for a splice covering.
Q: can a failing water pump sound like rattling or popcorn until the motor begins to over heat? the sound is nearthe waterpump. it goes away once the temp starts to overheat.the temp will get near redline then go down to normal and then start creeping up again. thanks for any replies.
it sure can.
Q: I will be replacing my water pump tomorrow and my question is can I use copper spay gasket to spray on the water pump gasket?it this stuff good?99 ford explorer 4.0 ohv with 144k,mileshere is a pictures of the product.
Sure, why not? Usually, the metal area when most water pumps are bolted too are cleaned with a scraper of some kind and old gasket matter is removed. That surface should be cleaned, flat, and free of irregularity. Most mechanics, if they use any kind of stickum - like contact cement from a tube, or the costlier, but not-needed specialty sealers, is applied to the pump surface so the gasket stays put and not move when installing the bolts. The glue does not do any actual sealing, just the fiber gasket will. None needs to be applied to the engine side that you scraped clean. Make sense to you? It's probably a good idea to service the cooling system with a non-caustic flush cleaner before hand -since all the coolant will come out during the change. Then add a additive that neutralizes acids with the new anti-freeze.
Q: Hello,Thanks for looking into my question. I am a little confused on the definition of a submersible water pump. I am assuming that they are actually submerged but that sounds a bit unlikely in my mind. I suppose if it has a GFCI setup built in with everything sealed beyond the portion that pumps, it would work submerged without any risks involved.Are submersible water pumps meant to be fully submerged? I am mainly interested in this information because I am concerned about the amount of noise they make, being submerged seems likely that they would not be able to be heard. Thanks.
Submersible water pumps are totally submersible. They are encased watertight. Mainly, since they are submerged inside a well away from the house, even if the made a little noise, you wouldn't hear it unless maybea bearing was bad, or the brushes were bad. When your pressure tank is filling, you can hear a little hum (IF you are at the scene of where the tank is. If you are talking about a sump pump that you use to pump standing water, say, out of your basement, since it is portable and awkward, there might be a racket when it is running. Papaw
Q: We have fresh running water..no well... We just want to install it on our playground for the kids to experience a manual water pump. Can it be attached to running water? Do I need a tank? Help! Thank YOU!
You can bury a tank, not metal or you willl be pumping rust. I would use fiber glass totally enclosed except for a fill hole which you can fill with a hose. Or run pvc to a water supply with a valve, cover it with planking and set up the pump over the planking. Some farm and feed supplies may have a lot of this.
Q: I have 2000 ford ranger v6 3.0 I replaced the water pump ten months ago and all of a sudden it's running hot it only runs hot when I stop for a second at a red light or stop sign. I changed the radiator today but still is running hot. The top radiato hose going to the thermostat housing is building a lot of pressure and the water is bubbling in the reservoir what could be wrong? And I took the thermostat out last week
You waited too long, over heated the engine, and now have leaking head gaskets. If water is boiling in reservoir, that is DEFINITELY the problem. Take heart, though. Many times, all you need do is replace the head bolts and re-torque them to specifications. This will usualy un-warp the heads and restore good gasket seals on the Ford 3.0 engine. Compression is forcing air into the coolant. It's that simple. Untill your head get resealed, you will contiue to have boiling and overheating. GOOD LUCK!!
Q: 94 f150,302. my pump is still leaking after doin the job twice. its a new pump, the first time i used the red silicone between pump and plate,both sides of gasket,and the housing on the block. leaked. then did it again with high tack gasket cement and still leaks. i cleaned all metal both times with brake clean before installing. same with thermostat housing,small leak. ive done 100s of pumps over the years,no problems, so please no rude remarks on mechanical ability. what could it be? it leaks up front of the motor above the crossmember where ya cant actually see the leak,its not a freeze plug. bolts are torqued. any ideas ? thanks
Die and tap the bolts and holes you might be getting false torque measurements. take a straight edge to your new pump, It could be fuggered right out of the box.

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