Two Sides Sanding Fiber Cement Board
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Products Introduction:
Sanle fiber cement board is made of high-grade cement and modified material, reinforced by natural fiber. Being processed by high pressure and high temperature advanced technologies, Sanle fiber cement board is a new building material with excellent performances.
Features
Fire Proof & Insulation
Class A non-inflammability, no toxic gas, low in perveance, good electric insulation material
Waterproof and Moisture Proof
In semi-outdoor area and under high temperature condition, performance of Sanle boards is stable and will not bend or deform.
Thermal Insulation and Sound Insulation
Low thermal conductivity, good heat insulation, high in density, sound proof
Light weight & High strength
Pressured by 5000-ton hydraulic machine, it is high in strength and light in weight. It is not easy to deform and bend, and good for flooring and roofing.
Easy installation
The installation of boards is dry operation, which is faster. It can be processed with ordinary wood working tool. The board is easy to be processed.
Economical and Good looking
The boards are light in weight. Together with the use of keels, they can save cost of construction and decoration. The painting is uniform, and the surface is smooth, making the exterior of buildings good-looking and attractive.
Safe and Harmless
Test result of Sanle boards is better than national radiation protection standards of building materials. The radiation from Sanle boards is equal to that from the lawn 20 meters away from the building. The lifespan of Sanle boards is very long, and they are resistant to acid and alkali, moisture and insects. The toughness and strength remains the same when time passes by. So they can be used for a long time.
Easy to install and easy to replace
Sanle boards can be drilled, cut, engraved, nailed, painted and covered by tiles or sticker when necessary..
Product parameters
Item | Unit | Requirement | ||||
Medium density | High density | |||||
Density | g/cm3 | 1.2<D≤1.5 | 1.5<D≤2.0 | |||
Water absorption | % | ≤30 | ≤25 | |||
Non-combustibility | GB 8624-2006, grade A | |||||
wet expansion | % | ≤0.25 | ||||
Beding strength | dry | MPA | Strength grade class III | 20 | Strength grade class IV | 24 |
Saturation with water | 12 | 14 | ||||
Applications
Exterior side boards, indoor partition walls, sound-proof ceiling, decoration boards, complex walls, outdoor billboards, division boards and floor boards
- Q: What do I do
- it may be broke
- Q: How does the fiberboard be sunked?
- Water wet, or let it damp, once again flat after the natural dry.
- Q: Is the cement board sound insulation effect is good, or gypsum board noise effect is good?
- Our sound insulation board 425 (cement board composite, thickness 13mm) and Zhiwei noise board 410 (gypsum board compound, thickness 18mm) compared to the noise board 425 sound insulation better! The green sound insulation board 425 and the green wood safety board 458 (a gypsum board + a piece of glass magnesium plate composite, the thickness of 18mm) its Zhiwei noise board 458 higher sound insulation. In general, sound insulation is mainly high frequency and low frequency sound, different materials on both of them also play a different sound insulation (personal life point of view, but I think it should be right).
- Q: I am planning on replacing my current bathroom floor with 3/4 plywood. I want to use 1/4 cement board as my sub-floor. However, I am not sure if peel and stick flooring will work with cement board. Please help.
- No you do not want to use 1/4 cement board for this. 1/4 luan is a much better substrate for any vinyl product you install. Please reconsider the peal and stick, sheet vinyl is much better and longer lasting in a bathroom area.. Any questions you can e mail me through my avatar. GL
- Q: Light steel keel cement board is what
- Light steel keel cement board refers to the light steel keel-based skeleton of the cement board.
- Q: I have a 5x20 room off my basement which sits under my front porch. All four walls of the room are cement block all the way up to the ceiling which is the cement slab from the porch above. There is a wood ceiling in the room that has gotten wet from leaks above. Is it safe to remove the wood joists and plywood in that room, fix the leaks and replace it? This doesn't support any weight from the slab above, does it? I assume that it was probably used as the bottom of the form when the slab was poured. Also, when I replace the ceiling, can I attach the ledger board using concrete sleeve anchors? Can these be fastened into the block wall? I'm not sure if they are hollow or have been filled with gravel or concrete. I plan on using the ledger board to fasten joist hanger to and frame back up my ceiling for insulation and wiring. The current ledger is attached with masonry nails. Any thoughts?
- Your ceiling may very well be no more than the bottom forms for the slab, but you really need to make sure. Attempting to seal the concrete slab from the underside isn't advisable. Concrete draws moisture, so you will always have a seepage problem after you're finished. I'd suggest sealing the slab on the surface and make sure it quit weeping before proceeding with the remainder of your project. Not all concrete blocks are filled. To secure your ledger board I'd suggest using a lag bolt with a lead spread type toggle. Drill into the block and insert to lead, which will hold the lag bolt. Hope this has been some help. Good Luck
- Q: We have drywall in our kitchen that was painted with a smooth semi-gloss paint a good 8 yrs ago. We'd like to install 3x6 tumbled marble as a backsplash over the drywall. It's about 1/4 thick so probably slightly heavier than say, the tiny square glass tiles that come on a 12x12 netting. One person at the Home Depot said we could just sand and scrape up the drywall and then apply the thinset and install the marble. Another said we might want to use a cement backing. We aren't really DIYers and would so we don't want to create extra work with the cement backing if it isn't needed. That said, we don't want the drywall to start peeling and the marble tiles to start falling off after a short amount of time. Please advise. Thank you!
- ild install a 1/4' hardyboard board first -the thinset will not last sticking the tiles to the paint
- Q: Or only where the ceramic tile floor will be installed. Should the pan just sit on the 5/8 wood subfloor?
- Won't hurt to put the durock down. Are you using a rubber drip pan, or steel? I like the rubber, much more versatile. I also like to put cement down, and set the base in while the cement is wet. This gives yo a good base, the fiberglass can't move and deteriorate.
- Q: I know cement board to cement board is taped with thinset and fibatape, but what about the seam at the sides that meet drywall? How should these be taped. What Materials should be used?
- This Site Might Help You. RE: How should the seam from durock cement board to Drywall be taped? I know cement board to cement board is taped with thinset and fibatape, but what about the seam at the sides that meet drywall? How should these be taped. What Materials should be used?
- Q: What is the difference between VIVA wood chips and FOREX plum cement board?
- Weight F6 = V8 that is the United States rock plate cement density is higher than the wood board, so FOREX US rock plate than the wood board weight some FOREX6 mm is almost equal to VIVA wood cement board 8 mm weight, probably Is 31 kg (1220 * 2440MM)
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Two Sides Sanding Fiber Cement Board
- Ref Price:
-
- Loading Port:
- China Main Port
- Payment Terms:
- TT OR LC
- Min Order Qty:
- -
- Supply Capability:
- -
OKorder Service Pledge
OKorder Financial Service
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