Popular Sanding Fiber Cement Board System 1

Popular Sanding Fiber Cement Board

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Products Introduction:

Sanle fiber cement board is made of high-grade cement and modified material, reinforced by natural fiber. Being processed by high pressure and high temperature advanced technologies, Sanle fiber cement board is a new building material with excellent performances.

Features

Fire Proof & Insulation
Class A non-inflammability, no toxic gas, low in perveance, good electric insulation material

Waterproof and Moisture Proof
In semi-outdoor area and under high temperature condition, performance of Sanle boards is stable and will not bend or deform.

Thermal Insulation and Sound Insulation
Low thermal conductivity, good heat insulation, high in density, sound proof

Light weight & High strength
Pressured by 5000-ton hydraulic machine, it is high in strength and light in weight. It is not easy to deform and bend, and good for flooring and roofing.

Easy installation
The installation of boards is dry operation, which is faster. It can be processed with ordinary wood working tool. The board is easy to be processed.

Economical and Good looking
The boards are light in weight. Together with the use of keels, they can save cost of construction and decoration. The painting is uniform, and the surface is smooth, making the exterior of buildings good-looking and attractive.

Safe and Harmless
Test result of Sanle boards is better than national radiation protection standards of building materials. The radiation from Sanle boards is equal to that from the lawn 20 meters away from the building. The lifespan of Sanle boards is very long, and they are resistant to acid and alkali, moisture and insects. The toughness and strength remains the same when time passes by. So they can be used for a long time.

Easy to install and easy to replace
Sanle boards can be drilled, cut, engraved, nailed, painted and covered by tiles or sticker when necessary..

Product parameters

Item		Unit	Requirement
			Medium density		High density
Density		g/cm3	1.2<D≤1.5		1.5<D≤2.0
Water absorption		%	≤30		≤25
Non-combustibility		GB 8624-2006, grade A
wet expansion		%	≤0.25
Beding strength	dry	MPA	Strength grade class III	20	Strength grade class IV	24
	Saturation with water			12		14

Applications

Exterior side boards, indoor partition walls, sound-proof ceiling, decoration boards, complex walls, outdoor billboards, division boards and floor boards

Q:Can cement pressure plates be used for external walls? Oblique wall, can play a waterproof role? Durable?: Cement pressure plate is a fire board, mainly with cement and fiber by high temperature and high pressure

Q:i am trying to build a slideboard (he kind that speed skateres and hockey players use) by gluing a piece of particle board to a sheet of tileboard.yesterday i applied a generous amount of contact cement and put the two together immediately to dry. today they are not even sort of stuck together. what is the most likely cause?could it be because i did this in my dingy and freezing cold basement?or are you not supposed to use contact cement on particle board and or tileboard?the instructions did call for plywood and linoleum.: Contact adhesive should be applied to both surfaces and then allowed to set for about 20 - 30 minutes (until almost touch-dry) BEFORE bringing the surfaces together. BEWARE! Once the surfaces touch they will bond instantly, with no scope for repositioning. Leave the existing cement until thoroughly dry, then re-apply as per my instructions.

Q:i am using cement board to cover a wood floor before laying tile. the last time i used it, i cut it with a circular saw (what a mess) dust everywhere. is there a better way??: Not that I know of. hate the stuff. It works well though. I had to use a skilsaw and score it then jump up and down on the discard piece til it broke. A real pain in the butt.

Q:the post box had 2 -2x6 boards somehow attached to the cement. The boards rotted out and fell over in a windstorm. I'd like to attach a 4x4 post bracket on the cement, then put a pressure treated 4x4 post for the mailbox. I think I need to get the bracket fixed so it's level before I drill into the cement. would I use an epoxy glue to do this?: If you can bore a one-inch or larger hole down through the concrete stump, you might be able to sink a metal holder made for deck posts and pour a little binder cement around that. I mean, how strong do you need to hold some mail?

Q:How much should the keel spacing of the dry wall fiber cement board?: 600x600 or can be more dense, but not less

Q:What is the best fixation screw in the cement board?: A glue B glue ratio of about 1: 1 (strong glue directly), after mixing the binder should be used within 5 to 6 hours (temperature is about 20 degrees).

Q:Cement board to do the bathroom top off the skin, how to deal with: Cement board is not suitable for ceiling materials, it is easy to crack, a thorough way is to remove, re-integrated ceiling or waterproof gypsum board ceiling.

Q:I'm trying to install tiles on the back of my stove's wall, so grease won't stick on the wall and it can be easier to clean the tiles versus the wall. I've read the DIY instructions in the internet, but since I'm not installing tiles in a wet area, is it necessary to get green drywall or cement back board? Thanks. Any help is appreciated.: Mine are fine and they are on the regular drywall. For the protruding tile problem: many kitchen tile styles have border tiles with a finished edge, look for them when you choose the tile.

Q:Cement concrete pavement thickness of the number of appropriate?: Most of the concrete pavement made of equal thickness section, thick 20 to 25 cm.

Q:I've taken up old linoleum tile, chip board, and two other layers of linoleum to get down to an oak floor in my bathroom. This has a felt-like paper uniformly adhered to it that must have been the backing for the first linoleum layer. I'm going to put down Hardi-backer, then tile. Do I have to take up the old tile backing material before I put down the hardibacker? It's very difficult to remove. Thanks!: I've done it. And The kind of screws you need are not so specialized. Simple drywall screws. About 5 to 8 bucks for a box depending on their length. Now since you say you have no intention of pulling up the old vinyl flooring, and that the subflooring is plywood, I would seriously reconsider. If you are doing it this way out of sheer laziness, then dont do it at all. Also, why are you using cement backerboard for a floor? This is normally used in areas that will constantly be wet, such as a shower wall, steam room, etc. For the floor, and take it from me as I have done this before, and have worked with pros doing this as well. Rip out the vinyl flooring. Its extra work, but hey, do it right the first time not half... well you get the picture. Then once you have that done, you are left with the bare subfloor, typically Plywood or Particle board. Check to see if it is level first, if this is a new house, check to see if it is level anyways. Now, lay down over lapping layers of roofing paper. They should be overlapped by 4 inches. Nail them in place, dont glue or screw it down. Now that you have a good surface to start with, you can now begin your prep work for laying down your tile. Ok, so now you are probably asking, well, why not just leave the vinyl tile under it all, whats the difference. Well, right now, you may not think that it is, but later on you will. The thickness of that tile, plus the cement backerboard, or roofing paper will not transition decently into your adjacent rooms, and it will not look good. And yes, it will make a big difference. If you have any questions on how to go about laying the tile down, any tips, etc... feel free to ask.

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