• Fiber Cement Board Water Proof  with Both Sides Sanding System 1
  • Fiber Cement Board Water Proof  with Both Sides Sanding System 2
  • Fiber Cement Board Water Proof  with Both Sides Sanding System 3
Fiber Cement Board Water Proof  with Both Sides Sanding

Fiber Cement Board Water Proof with Both Sides Sanding

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Loading Port:
Shanghai
Payment Terms:
TT OR LC
Min Order Qty:
600 pc
Supply Capability:
20000 pc/month

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Product parameters

Item

Unit

Requirement

Medium   density

High   density

Density

g/cm3

1.2<< span="">D≤1.5

1.5<< span="">D≤2.0

Water   absorption

%

≤30

≤25

Non-combustibility

GB   8624-2006, grade A

wet   expansion

%

≤0.25

Beding   strength

dry

MPA

Strength   grade class III

20

Strength   grade class IV

24

Saturation   with water

12

14

Applications

Exterior side boards, indoor partition walls, sound-proof ceiling, decoration boards, complex walls, outdoor billboards, division boards and floor boards


Products Introduction:



Our fiber cement board is made of high-grade cement and modified material, reinforced by natural fiber. Being processed by high pressure and high temperature advanced technologies, Sanle fiber cement board is a new building material with excellent performances.



Features



Fire Proof & Insulation
Class A non-inflammability, no toxic gas, low in perveance, good electric insulation material

Waterproof and Moisture Proof
In semi-outdoor area and under high temperature condition, performance of Sanle boards is stable and will not bend or deform.

Thermal Insulation and Sound Insulation
Low thermal conductivity, good heat insulation, high in density, sound proof

Light weight & High strength
Pressured by 5000-ton hydraulic machine, it is high in strength and light in weight. It is not easy to deform and bend, and good for flooring and roofing.

Easy installation
The installation of boards is dry operation, which is faster. It can be processed with ordinary wood working tool. The board is easy to be processed.

Economical and Good looking
The boards are light in weight. Together with the use of keels, they can save cost of construction and decoration. The painting is uniform, and the surface is smooth, making the exterior of buildings good-looking and attractive.

Safe and Harmless
Test result of Sanle boards is better than national radiation protection standards of building materials. The radiation from Sanle boards is equal to that from the lawn 20 meters away from the building. The lifespan of Sanle boards is very long, and they are resistant to acid and alkali, moisture and insects. The toughness and strength remains the same when time passes by. So they can be used for a long time.

Easy to install and easy to replace

Sanle boards can be drilled, cut, engraved, nailed, painted and covered by tiles or sticker when necessary


FAQ

1.Sample: small sample can be offered by free

2.OEM: OEM is accepted

3.MOQ: small order is ok

4.Test: any third party is accepted to test

5.Factory: Can visit factory any time

6.Delivery Time: small order is within 7days or according to your order


Installation:

(1) Lightweight and high strength: 3-4 kg/m2 (1/10 of half brick wall), with yield strength 400mpa.

(2) Environment-friendly : galvanized steel-no radiation, have no harm to our health and not pollute the environment.

(3) Products with fillisters : Setting some fillisters in both sides of the keels in a selective way, in order to strength the keels' vertical points and intensity.

(4) The metal stud with hole : one of our product is the special hole on C-stud every 600mm, which is easy for workers to install the electric lines and water tubes.

(5) Various sizes of metal track and metal stud : we are able to manufacture German,Japanand Aus-American types etc..We can meet your customized demands.

(6) Factory direct sale price : We have our own factory to produce raw materials----galvanized(zinc coated) steel, as well as the product line, so we can provide you a lowest price.




Q:how do I drywall over cement in a basement? How do i attach the drywall to the walls?
First you put a barrier on the inside of the outside walls, like sheets of plastic. Then you frame the wall with 2X4's and attach them to the outside wall. Last you nail the drywall to the framing. This insulates the wall with a pocket of air and keeps the drywall from being ruined by condensation.
Q:My bathroom has a section where there is cement board. Over the cement board is a layer of plaster. Tiles were glued to the plaster. However, the plaster came off of most of the cement board over time. Of course, the tiles have fallen off too. So now I have bare cement board partially covered by plaster.I'd like to remove the remaining plaster from the cement board and then retile directly over the cement board.How to best remove the remaining plaster? Is chipping away at it the only method?
it might be easier to cut the section out and start fresh
Q:Seeking wire mesh clip on both sides of the foam cement mortar to do the wall technology.
First fixed a good frame, and then fixed with a wooden keel wire mesh plus foam. If you are afraid of overweight, to switch to wood plaster gray knife.
Q:after installing my bathtub do i use 1/4 in. or 1/2 in. cement board for surrounding before ceramic tiling?
1/2 will hold up better to the weight of the tile and someone banging into it.
Q:I'm pulling up the linoleum and replacing it with ceramic tile, 12x12. it's a small bathroom, on the 2nd floor.Under the linoleum is wood. Do i need to lie down cement board before I put the mortar mix down? Or will it be fine to put tiles on the mortar mix on the wood?
Flooring plywood that is not laid down as tongue and grove (the whole floor) needs to be blocked at the edges. That means you will need to add solid framing lumber on all four sides of the patch. Securely attach them into the floor joists with nails. This is important because by cutting the plywood, you will have soft spots at the edges, which will cause your new tile to crack.
Q:Can the cement pressure plate be directly put on the top of the paint?
First of all, it is recommended to use the home of the German brand worry-free putty to scratch the end of the scratch (TB have), to be dry after the approved putty powder, and then brushing latex paint.
Q:I'm having old (30 plus years), damaged slate tiles removed and replacing it with ceramic tiles. I've discovered there is cement underlayment under the slate tiles. I'm having this work done for me and so far the floor looks like grenades have hit it. There are pot holes. How in the world are you suppose to remove these slates tiles that have been adhered to cement?? And, how do you repair the flooring to eventually lay down cement board and ceramic tiles?? I'm sick to my stomach.
A thin layer of new mortar will fill in and cover the rough surface. Cement board shouldn't even be necessary.
Q:Would you recommend putting crazy glue in the draft boards locks, or cement?
this is funny...cement.
Q:Is it required to waterproof a basement shower when it sits directly on the cement floor? Can we use cement board on the curb or is it required to use mortor and build it that way?? Can be lay the floor tile directly to the cement floor? Any suggestions will be great?? Thanks
My dad is an architect, and when he designed the showers for his assisted living facility, he didn't use a shower pan. He put tile on the walls (you can get drywall made for bathrooms), and sloped the tile floor slightly, so that when the water splashes on the floor, it runs back into the shower. That way, there's less chance that the residents will trip getting out.
Q:do I have to remove the vinyl floor covering or can I just put the cement board over it
The vinyl acts as a moister barrier, so go ahead and keep the vinyl down. as long as it is level you are fine. You shouldn't have more than a 1/4 inch dip over a 10' space.

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