Non-Asbestos Houses Installation Fireproof Fiber Cement Board
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Product Applications:
Can be used in washrooms as the ceiling, partition and backer boards. Additionally, Due to the features of fire prevention, thermal insulation, mildew proof and moisture proof, Bestinboards are also applicable to places where high security is needed.
Product Features:
1.Fire-retardant
2.Thermal-insulated
3.Mildew proof
4.Moisture proof
5.Sound insulated
6.Low moisture and water absorption
7.100% asbestos free and other hazardous substances.
Product Advantages:
1.Hold by Wooden Pallet
2.Covered by PVC and Bonded with plastic belt
3.Fasten around the corners
4.Mounted in container to protect your purchasing.
Trade Term
1. Payment: T/T
2 .Lead time: Samples:15 Working days;
3. Shipping freight are quoted under your requests.
4. Shipping port: Foshan,Guangzhou or Shenzhen port, Mainland China.
5. Discounts: discount based on the order quantity.
Certificate
Products are Calcium Silicate Board (Fiber Cement Board), exterior wall plate, Facade Board and lining board, etc. Our products have passed ISO certificates. CE, TUV Certificates are on progress.
Product Specifications:
| Size | Standard Size | Size:1220*2440*4/6/8/9/10/12/15mm |
| Appearance | Surface | Surface:Un-Sanded/Sanded/Polished; |
| Edge | Square/Recessed/ | |
| Physical Properties | Density | 1.2-1.3g/cm3 |
| Bending Strength | Cross > 16Mpa Parallel 60-70Mpa | |
| Moisture Movement | <0.20% | |
| Water Absorption | < 0.1% | |
| Water Contain | <6%(Under EMS condition) | |
| Thermal Conductivity | 0.12-0.15 w/(m •k) | |
| Non-combustibility | GB 8624-2006 Grade A1,CE EN 12467:2012 Grade A1 | |
| Water Impermeablility | Traces of moisture appeared on the under surface of the sheet,but no formation of drops of water on the underside of the sheet after 24 hours. | |
| Freeze-thaw | Not have cracking and layering after freeze-thaw cycles 25 times. | |
| Application | Interior Ceiling,Interior Patition, Bottom Liner | |
| Products Warranty | More than 20 years |
| Raw Material | Content |
| Cement | 44 % |
| Quartz | 44 % |
| Natural Fiber | 8 % |
| Suspension | 4 % |
| Composition of Finished Product | Content |
| Crystalloid of Calcium Silicate | 52% |
| Quartz | 30% |
| Calcium Carbonate | 10% |
| Cellulose | 8% |
Images:
- Q:Installing a shower in my basement, and am framing around a fiberglass 36 square shower base. should I put it flush against the frame and then attach cement board (it will overhang) or leave room to slide cement board between base and frame? Thanks!
- I saw another answer that tells you to leave it above the flange of the base, but here is the problem with that and how I do it. If you leave it short of the base, there is now a gap however high the flange is with nothing to support the tile OR a place for the grout the sit because there is a void behind the tile. What I do is measure the thickness of the base ( usually 1/4) and then I rip a filler strip the same thickness as the flange. I nail it to the studs from the flange up to where you are going to stop the backer board or to the ceiling and then attach Hardibacker or Wonderboard to the furred out studs. Now the substrate can be installed 1/4 inch off the bottom of the base unit to avoid water wicking up and the tile has a full backing to within 1/4 of the base as well as the grout goes all the way in instead of sitting only BETWEEN the tiles as it would if you left it 1 1/2 up off the bottom sitting on the top of the flange. The only adjustment you will need to do is set the shower valve out whatever the thickness of the furring strips you add so it finishes on the tile surface to the manufacturers specs.
- Q:This building was previously a school building, with cement block walls..I need to know if I need backer board, or do I just need to fill in the low spots to make the wall flat and level? Also, what kind of thinset do I need for clear glass mosaics?
- You don t need a backer board.. As long as the block is solid and no cracks ( they need to be treated specially) you can go right over the block with a few precautions. The block needs to be clean and smooth. No mortar from the joints and stick out. If the walls are unpainted ( and clean) you can go over them with WHITE and white only thin set.There is no such thing as colored or tinted thin set.And glass tiles call for a strong latex modified thin set If the walls are painted ( and clean) you can use a mastic or the special thin set. Fill in the mortar joints with the adhesive you use. Mastic cannot be used if this is a wet area or going to be a wet area. Any questions you can e mail me through my avatar and check my qualifications there. GL
- Q:i have ready mix cement that you just add water to & i want to make my own bricks.what is the easiest way to make a mold.thanks for any help
- hard factor. seek with a search engine. that can assist!
- Q:i glued a piece of regular printer paper to a piece of matboard as part of an art project. since i applied rubber cement to both the paper and the board, it bonded quite strongly. the problem is that now i have to remove the paper with the least amount of damage to the matboard. the paper is white and the board is black. its been over a week since i glued the two together. HELP!! i need this for school and it has to look good...any suggestions??im going to throw the paper away, so that can be damaged in the process. no problem.
- hair dryer to warm it and peel real slow...?
- Q:Replacing the cement board is not realistic, I don't know of anything that may be more flexible and not deteriorate so quickly.
- Even if you use silicone tub-n-tile sealer you’ll need to figure out where to apply weight to cause the floor to flex upward. Apply the weight to flex the floor upward apply the silicone caulk, tub-n-tile sealer let it set then remove the weight. Otherwise you’ll be right back it the same shape it’ll just take a little longer. This is the same method used when applying tub-n-tile sealer around a bath tub. You fill the tub with water before you apply the sealer / caulk. Otherwise it will also pull away over time.
- Q:We are redoing a small bathroom and I want to redo the old tile and also add some additional tile around some of the other walls. We are planning to use cement board around the tub, but do I need to rip out existing wallboard around the vanity and other walls where I want to add new tiles and replace it with cement backer board? Or should I just add the cement board on top of the existing wallboard in the places I want to add new tile ( I was thinking about maybe tiling halfway up some of the other walls). Thanks!
- First take some rough sandpaper like an 80 grit to rough up the wall that is painted, then use a mastic type adhesive like Acrylpro ceramic tile adhesive from Home Depot. It is $6 for a quart or $13 for a gallon. Use the correct size trowel suggested on the bucket for your tile size. Follow the directions and you will be fine. You would only use Hardibacker or Durock in a shower or bath tub enclosure where heavy use of water goes on. Then you would use the screws made for that product and use thinset adhesive instead of mastic.
- Q:I have a bare concrete/cement floor. After I installed Travertine on one section, it is almost 1/2 inch above the floor. Now, I want to continue to install the other section of the floor with laminate wood, but the floor is too low compared to the travertine floor. The question are: Can I put down a particle board over the concrete/cement floor, then a foam pad (moisture barrier), then laminate wood?Will the particle board absorb water then swell up?Or do I need to put down the moisture barrier foam first, then particle, then laminate wood?If I am not using the particle board, the laminate wood floor will be about 1/8 lower than the travertine floor. is it ok?
- Do NOT use particle board. There is no reason, as the laminate can be laid over the concrete with the proper padding. The particle board may swell and cause you issues down the road. Check the instructions on the flooring. Some require a plastic vapor barrier under them, while others only need the padding. 1/8 is not a big deal. The transition strip will bridge the difference. Be sure to check for peaks and valleys in the concrete, and fill in low spots. This will prevent the tongues on the planks from snapping off, leaving gaps in the floor. Allow the laminate to acclimate to the basement for a week or so before installing. Hope this helps. EDIT: You don't need anything under the flooring except vapor barrier or padding. They are designed to be able to be installed on a concrete base. Good luck.
- Q:I'm going to apply cement board over water proof sheet rock,anything special i need to do other than screw it
- Dont use green board. The first line on the spec sheet from any manufacture is do not use in tubs or showers. Use two layers of Hardi backer or Dens Shield. The Hardi is better but it is harder to cut. I have been in this business for years and I will only use one of the two listed above. G-P makes Dens Shield and they have the best warranty going. Use two layers of backer board attached with screws, tape the joints with mesh tape and durabond. Remember, grout failure is the reason most tile assemblies fail so check the grout and repair if needed, twice a year.
- Q:I need to cut a curved piece of cement board. Will it work to score it with a utility knife, then break it? Thanks.
- Yes it cuts just like drywall, scrore then snap.Score a bit deeper though.
- Q:Will Titebond II (weatherproof) work? I have a 1928 home and am trying to duplicate one of the original exterior window sills to go on a new window. I need to glue a couple of 5/4 pieces together to get the right thickness and I want it to last. The originals have redwood but it's old growth I believe and more stable than what I can find now in redwood or DF. Correct me if I'm wrong there. Plus I have only two attaching points to work with on either side of the window so I chose the fiber cement product for it's stability. Nothing on James Hardie's site says what can be used to glue it with though.ThanksThanksChris
- I would use gorilla glue which is 100 percent waterproof. or you could use polyurethane caulk which is very tough.
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Non-Asbestos Houses Installation Fireproof Fiber Cement Board
- Ref Price:
-
- Loading Port:
- China Main Port
- Payment Terms:
- TT or LC
- Min Order Qty:
- -
- Supply Capability:
- -
OKorder Service Pledge
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